Possible questions, misunderstandings, and issues can usually be answered and resolved in this section.
How to take a solar pump apart to clean it and put it back together:
(Only applies to pumps with model #SP-160X01, SP-160X02, SP-160X03, SP-160X3S)
How to assemble the top tier of a 2-tier solar fountain:
(Focuses on a standard solar panel (no battery) & a top tier that use 2 tubes)
For more product videos please click on a link to our YouTube channels:
www.YouTube.com/user/SmartSolarInc (USA)
www.YouTube.com/user/SmartSolarLtd (UK)
• If your solar birdbath fountain isn’t working please try a “manual start” (standard solar)
• If your solar birdbath fountain isn’t working please try a “manual start” (solar-on-demand)
VIDEOS
How to take a solar pump apart to clean it and put it back together:
(Only applies to pumps with model #SP-160X01, SP-160X02, SP-160X03, SP-160X3S)
How to assemble the top tier of a 2-tier solar fountain:
(Focuses on a standard solar panel (no battery) & a top tier that use 2 tubes)
For more product videos please click on a link to our YouTube channels:
www.YouTube.com/user/SmartSolarInc (USA)
www.YouTube.com/user/SmartSolarLtd (UK)
ABOUT REPLACEMENT PARTS
• Do you have a list of SOLAR PANELS that includes all the older ones too?
EXTERNAL STYLE SOLAR PANELS FOR FOUNTAINS
INTEGRATED STYLE SOLAR PANELS FOR FOUNTAINS
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 |
MODEL # 2020AS01 2050AS01 2050ASD1 6016060P1 2181CS01 2180AS01 21820AS01 21310AS01 2500MSM1 25000SM1 2190AS01 NO MODEL NO MODEL 2150AS01 2152AS01 2151CS01 NO MODEL SO1W1B SC0W8S SC1W5S SC1W5B SC2W0D |
POWER 6v, 1.5w 6v, 1.5w n/a 6v,1.2w,245mA 6.11v, 196mA 6v,1.2w 6v,1.1w 4.5v,0.83w 8.4v,1.76w 8.4v,1.76w 8.4v,2.22w 8v,640mA 7.2v,5w,695mA 7.2v,5w 7.2v,5w 8v,640mA 18v,1050mA 6v,1.1w 6v,0.8w 6v,1.5w 6v,1.5w 6v,2.0w |
SIZE 7 ½"x6 ½" 7 ½"x6 ½" n/a 9 ½"x4" n/a 5 ¾"x6" 7 ½"x6 ½" 5 ¾"x5" 7 ¾"x7 ¾" 7 ½"x7 ½" 12 ¾"x5 ¾" 14 ¾"x6 ¼" 14 ¾"x6 ¼" 13"x12" 13"x12" n/a 24 ½"x12" 6 ½"x5" 6 ½"x6" 6 ½"x6" 6 ½"x6" 6 ½"x6" |
SOLAR Amorphous Amorphous Amorphous PolyCrystalline PolyCrystalline Amorphous Amorphous Amorphous Amorphous Amorphous Amorphous PolyCrystalline PolyCrystalline Amorphous Amorphous PolyCrystalline PolyCrystalline Crystalline Crystalline Crystalline Crystalline Crystalline |
TYPE Standard Standard SODw/Remote Standard Standard Standard Standard Standard Standard Standard Standard Standard Standard Standard Standard Standard Standard Standard Standard Standard Standard SOD |
FOR PRODUCT Cascade,Cairo Cascade,Cairo Monroe Cascade Cascade,Cairo,Oxy. Oxygenator Oxygenator Oxygenator SJ 150,Frog/Dove/Koi SJ 290-M SJ 290-B SJ 380 Lugano SunJet 450 SunJet 450 SunJet 450 SunJet 450 SunJet 900 Oxygenator SJ 150,Frog/Dove/Koi Cascade Cascade Cascade |
INTEGRATED STYLE SOLAR PANELS FOR FOUNTAINS
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 |
MODEL # 2090AS01 2096AS01 2605-01 2680-01 2062AS01 2060AS01 2060ASE1 2440AS01 SB1W0S SB1W1S SB1W5S SB1W5D SB2W0D SB2W2L SF0W6S |
POWER 6v 1.1w 6v 1.1w 6v 1.1w 6v 1.1w 6v 1.2w 6v 1.1w 6v 1.5w 6v 1.1w 6v 1.0w 6v 1.1w 6v 1.5w 6v 1.5w 6v 2.0w 6v 2.2w 6v 0.6w |
SIZE 6 ½"x5 ¾" 6 ½"x5 ¾" 6 ½"x5 ¾" 6 ½"x5 ¾" 6 ½"x5 ¾" 6 ½"x6" 6 ½"x7 ¾" n/a n/a 6 ½"x6" 6 ½"x6" 6 ½"x6" 6 ½"x6" 6 ½"x6" 4 ½"x2 ¾" |
MTG RING not removable not removable not removable not removable not removable optional will not fit resin lily pad foam lily pad optional not necessary optional not necessary not necessary will not fit |
SOLAR Amorphous Amorphous Amorphous Amorphous Amorphous Amorphous Amorphous Amorphous Crystalline Crystalline Crystalline Crystalline Crystalline Crystalline Crystalline |
TYPE Standard Standard Standard Standard Standard Standard Standard Standard Standard Standard Standard SOD SOD SODw/LEDs Standard |
FOR PRODUCT round reservoir Warwick 2-Tier Aquatic Garden Aquatic Garden Aquatic Garden Birdbath & 2-Tier Trentino 2-Tier Lily Pad Lily Pad Birdbath & 2-Tier Pouring Vases Birdbath & 2-Tier Milano 2-Tier Ashbourne Pineapple Finial |
• Do you have a list of PUMPS that includes all the older ones too?
For Birdbath, 2-Tier, Urn, Lily, SunJet 290m:
20020P01, 20020ELCB, 20020ELCL, 2605-02 (Exclusive), 20620P01, 20900P01, 20960P01, 24400P01, SP-160X01, SP-160X02, SP-160X03 (Exclusive), SP-160XC3 (Exclusive)
For Cascade, Cairo/Corsica, Frog/Dove/Koi, SunJet 150/380:
21300P01, 20200P01, 20400P01, 20500P01, 20500ELC, SP-160X3S
For Other Products:
21820P01 for Oxygenator
AP-65 for new Oxygenator
24730P01 for Floating Frog
21400P01 for Toskana
21800P01 for Splash
25000P01 for SunJet 290-B (EXCLUSIVE)
21500P01 for Lugano (12v)
21510P01 for SunJet 450 (7.2v-18v)
29000P01 for SunJet 900 (16.8v)
20020P01, 20020ELCB, 20020ELCL, 2605-02 (Exclusive), 20620P01, 20900P01, 20960P01, 24400P01, SP-160X01, SP-160X02, SP-160X03 (Exclusive), SP-160XC3 (Exclusive)
For Cascade, Cairo/Corsica, Frog/Dove/Koi, SunJet 150/380:
21300P01, 20200P01, 20400P01, 20500P01, 20500ELC, SP-160X3S
For Other Products:
21820P01 for Oxygenator
AP-65 for new Oxygenator
24730P01 for Floating Frog
21400P01 for Toskana
21800P01 for Splash
25000P01 for SunJet 290-B (EXCLUSIVE)
21500P01 for Lugano (12v)
21510P01 for SunJet 450 (7.2v-18v)
29000P01 for SunJet 900 (16.8v)
WARRANTY
• What is covered under the warranty?
Smart Solar has a 1-year limited manufacturer’s warranty from the original date of purchase on full products bought from authorized distributors and retailers. We also have a 1-year limited manufacturer’s warranty from the date of purchase on replacement parts that are bought directly from us. The warranty covers parts that are properly installed and regularly maintained. If the product fails due to a defect in material or workmanship, Smart Solar will replace the defective parts free of charge. If any parts of the product are missing at the time of the initial order, Smart Solar will provide the missing parts free of charge. Please unpack and inspect the entire product upon receipt and report any broken or missing pieces as soon as possible.
Note: Certain guidelines apply to ‘exclusive’ products. Please refer to the question: ‘What is an exclusive product?’ for more information.
Note: Certain guidelines apply to ‘exclusive’ products. Please refer to the question: ‘What is an exclusive product?’ for more information.
• What is not covered under the warranty?
The manufacturer’s warranty does not cover damage caused by:
accidents (fell over, dropped it), inclement weather (storms), animals (chewed it), abuse/misuse (ran dry), lack of maintenance (not cleaning), harsh chemicals (bleach), incorrect assembly, discarded parts (thrown away), poor handling, incorrect storage/frost/ freezing temperatures (ice), normal wear and tear, products which have been subject to unauthorized repair or modification (cut and spliced wires)
If your solar pump burns out due to over-use from an electric supply then the warranty is voided. Solar pumps should only be used a max of 8 hours per day with an AC adaptor.
The warranty excludes filters and impellers, which are normal wear and tear items.
Depending on what kind of climate you live in, if you get temps that fall close to freezing or below in the winter then the entire product should be stored indoors in a dry and frost proof environment when not in use.
Certain guidelines apply to ‘exclusive’ products. Please refer to the question: ‘What is an exclusive product?’ for more information.
Note: Please do not discard any parts of your product before you receive the replacement parts that you ordered. This is to ensure that the parts that you receive are correct and compatible, and that you don’t accidentally throw any necessary parts away. If you accidentally discard parts that you need because were connected to parts that you’re replacing (because you were not aware that they could be separated), we will not replace the accidentally discarded parts under warranty.
accidents (fell over, dropped it), inclement weather (storms), animals (chewed it), abuse/misuse (ran dry), lack of maintenance (not cleaning), harsh chemicals (bleach), incorrect assembly, discarded parts (thrown away), poor handling, incorrect storage/frost/ freezing temperatures (ice), normal wear and tear, products which have been subject to unauthorized repair or modification (cut and spliced wires)
If your solar pump burns out due to over-use from an electric supply then the warranty is voided. Solar pumps should only be used a max of 8 hours per day with an AC adaptor.
The warranty excludes filters and impellers, which are normal wear and tear items.
Depending on what kind of climate you live in, if you get temps that fall close to freezing or below in the winter then the entire product should be stored indoors in a dry and frost proof environment when not in use.
Certain guidelines apply to ‘exclusive’ products. Please refer to the question: ‘What is an exclusive product?’ for more information.
Note: Please do not discard any parts of your product before you receive the replacement parts that you ordered. This is to ensure that the parts that you receive are correct and compatible, and that you don’t accidentally throw any necessary parts away. If you accidentally discard parts that you need because were connected to parts that you’re replacing (because you were not aware that they could be separated), we will not replace the accidentally discarded parts under warranty.
• How long is the warranty good for?
Smart Solar has a 1-year limited manufacturer’s warranty from the original date of purchase on full products bought from authorized distributors and retailers. We also have a 1-year limited manufacturer’s warranty from the date of purchase on replacement parts that are bought directly from us.
Note: We realize that in certain parts of the country customers do not experience freezing temperatures so they can get full use of their products all year long, and in other parts of the country customers will use it during the summer but then need to pack it up and store it indoors for the winter. Unfortunately we can't base our warranty on the amount of use the product has gotten. If you bought it more than 1 year ago and never used it, it's still past the warranty period.
Note: We realize that in certain parts of the country customers do not experience freezing temperatures so they can get full use of their products all year long, and in other parts of the country customers will use it during the summer but then need to pack it up and store it indoors for the winter. Unfortunately we can't base our warranty on the amount of use the product has gotten. If you bought it more than 1 year ago and never used it, it's still past the warranty period.
• What info do I need to provide to receive replacement solar parts under warranty?
If it’s determined through troubleshooting that you have a solar part which needs replacing and you’re still covered under our 1-yr warranty, then you will need to provide the following info to receive warranty parts:
PRODUCT: The name of the product, or item number (manufacturer or retail)
PLACE OF PURCHASE: The name of the company it was purchased from
DATE OF PURCHASE: The date that the product was purchased or delivered
and these manufacturer’s numbers from the labels on your actual parts (not listed in the instruction manual):
IF MADE IN THAILAND
PUMP: Both the Model (Mod) # and Serial (S/No) # from your pump (2 numbers)
PANEL: Both the Model (Mod) # and Serial (S/No) # from your panel (2 numbers)
IF MADE IN CHINA
PUMP: Both the Model # and QC Passed # from your pump (2 numbers)
PANEL: Both the Model # and QC Passed # from your panel (2 numbers)
BATTERY: Both the Model # and Date Code from your battery (for Solar-On-Demand only)
PROOF-OF-PURCHASE: (if requested) A copy of your receipt or email confirmation of your purchase via email, mail, or fax.
Note: If you do not want to perform any troubleshooting or provide the necessary information listed above then unfortunately we will not be able to fulfill your request for warranty parts. We do not replace parts under warranty without these numbers or troubleshooting. This is for your benefit because we do not want to guess which version you have or which piece might be causing the issue to avoid either sending the wrong part or a part that doesn’t resolve the issue which will just cause frustration on your part. We also don’t just replace all parts at once because sometimes there is nothing wrong with ours and all you needed was some troubleshooting to resolve it and they would have been unnecessary parts that you don’t need replaced.
PRODUCT: The name of the product, or item number (manufacturer or retail)
PLACE OF PURCHASE: The name of the company it was purchased from
DATE OF PURCHASE: The date that the product was purchased or delivered
and these manufacturer’s numbers from the labels on your actual parts (not listed in the instruction manual):
IF MADE IN THAILAND
PUMP: Both the Model (Mod) # and Serial (S/No) # from your pump (2 numbers)
PANEL: Both the Model (Mod) # and Serial (S/No) # from your panel (2 numbers)
IF MADE IN CHINA
PUMP: Both the Model # and QC Passed # from your pump (2 numbers)
PANEL: Both the Model # and QC Passed # from your panel (2 numbers)
BATTERY: Both the Model # and Date Code from your battery (for Solar-On-Demand only)
PROOF-OF-PURCHASE: (if requested) A copy of your receipt or email confirmation of your purchase via email, mail, or fax.
Note: If you do not want to perform any troubleshooting or provide the necessary information listed above then unfortunately we will not be able to fulfill your request for warranty parts. We do not replace parts under warranty without these numbers or troubleshooting. This is for your benefit because we do not want to guess which version you have or which piece might be causing the issue to avoid either sending the wrong part or a part that doesn’t resolve the issue which will just cause frustration on your part. We also don’t just replace all parts at once because sometimes there is nothing wrong with ours and all you needed was some troubleshooting to resolve it and they would have been unnecessary parts that you don’t need replaced.
• Why do I need to provide the Model numbers and Serial or QC Passed numbers?
We require customers to provide the model and serial numbers, or the model and QC passed numbers, located on both the solar panel and the pump (2 numbers on each, 4 numbers total) when processing warranty claims for either part.
The model number either tells us which product you have or which version of the parts you have. This helps us provide accurate troubleshooting, and make sure that you will receive replacement parts that are compatible with the versions that you own.
The serial number (on parts made in Thailand only) tells us when the item was manufactured allowing us to see how old it is. The QC passed number (on parts made in China only) is for quality control and allows us to see if there is a pattern or consistent issue with items that customers contact us regarding so that we can make changes and improvements. Both serial numbers and QC passed numbers are unique to each piece that is produced by the factory, so every piece has a different number, therefore there is no way we will have these numbers on file before you contact us. Please do not assume that we know these numbers based on the name of the product or the model number of the part.
If you can’t read the label because it has faded or worn off from being exposed to the sun or water, please tell us as many of the letters and numbers that are still legible. If you can’t read anything on the label at all then a proof-of-purchase will be required.
When reviewing warranty claims, we reserve the right to require any customers to provide a copy of their proof of purchase with original product purchase date, if necessary, to determine their warranty period. You can send us a proof of purchase via email, mail, or fax.
Note: If you do not want to perform any troubleshooting or provide the necessary information listed above then unfortunately we will not be able to fulfill your request for warranty parts. We do not replace parts under warranty without these numbers or troubleshooting. This is for your benefit because we do not want to guess which version you have or which piece might be causing the issue to avoid either sending the wrong part or a part that doesn’t resolve the issue which will just cause frustration on your part. We also don’t just replace all parts at once because sometimes there is nothing wrong with ours and all you needed was some troubleshooting to resolve it and they would have been unnecessary parts that you don’t need replaced.
The model number either tells us which product you have or which version of the parts you have. This helps us provide accurate troubleshooting, and make sure that you will receive replacement parts that are compatible with the versions that you own.
The serial number (on parts made in Thailand only) tells us when the item was manufactured allowing us to see how old it is. The QC passed number (on parts made in China only) is for quality control and allows us to see if there is a pattern or consistent issue with items that customers contact us regarding so that we can make changes and improvements. Both serial numbers and QC passed numbers are unique to each piece that is produced by the factory, so every piece has a different number, therefore there is no way we will have these numbers on file before you contact us. Please do not assume that we know these numbers based on the name of the product or the model number of the part.
If you can’t read the label because it has faded or worn off from being exposed to the sun or water, please tell us as many of the letters and numbers that are still legible. If you can’t read anything on the label at all then a proof-of-purchase will be required.
When reviewing warranty claims, we reserve the right to require any customers to provide a copy of their proof of purchase with original product purchase date, if necessary, to determine their warranty period. You can send us a proof of purchase via email, mail, or fax.
Note: If you do not want to perform any troubleshooting or provide the necessary information listed above then unfortunately we will not be able to fulfill your request for warranty parts. We do not replace parts under warranty without these numbers or troubleshooting. This is for your benefit because we do not want to guess which version you have or which piece might be causing the issue to avoid either sending the wrong part or a part that doesn’t resolve the issue which will just cause frustration on your part. We also don’t just replace all parts at once because sometimes there is nothing wrong with ours and all you needed was some troubleshooting to resolve it and they would have been unnecessary parts that you don’t need replaced.
SMART GARDEN
• Hammock - Do the hammocks come with stands or are they sold separately?
All of hammocks include the hammock itself and a poly bag for storage and the double sided fabric hammocks also include a pillow, but the stands in the pictures are all sold separately so that you can get the hammock and stand combination of your choice.
• Smart Cart - How much weight can a Smart Cart hold?
The weight capacity of the SLC450 is 250 lbs (113 kg).
SOLAR AQUATICS
• What do the (T) and (C) after some questions mean?
The (T) and (C) at the end of each question refer to either Thailand or China. Originally our solar panels and pumps were manufactured in Thailand until the end of 2008. In 2009, we re-designed the parts, made improvements, and moved our manufacturing to China. Since we have two versions of the same parts for some products we need to list some of the same questions twice in order to give you a set of troubleshooting instructions that accurately pertains to the version that you own.
Solar Oxygenator Air Pump
• Oxygenator - My pump runs but doesn’t push any air. What do I do?
Please review the troubleshooting information below:
OPTIMUM CONDITIONS & ORIENTATION (for standard external panels)
The solar panel needs to be placed outside in direct sunlight, not indoors behind a window or screen which will filter the light, and not under artificial lighting (i.e. fluorescent or halogen) which will not make it work. Chose a suitable outdoor location where there are no trees that will filter the sunlight. Even the smallest amount of shading reduces panel’s output significantly. Since we are in the northern hemisphere we recommend facing the panel south and tilting it at an angle. The weather needs to be clear, not hazy or partly cloudy. Just because it’s hot outside and the panel is hot when you touch it does not mean the fountain should be working. Most people assume that the hotter it is outside the better the fountain will work. This is a common misconception, because even though the amount of energy produced by a solar panel is proportional to the strength of the sunlight it receives (based on season), contrary to what you may expect, the higher the temperature of the solar panel the more its output actually decreases! Generally, temperatures around 68°F or 20°C (room temp) are ideal. You will see the best results in the spring and summer months when the hours between sunrise and sunset are the longest, and in the middle of the day when the sun is directly overhead. Sunlight in the early morning and late afternoon on a nice day (even though it’s bright) may not be strong enough to fully power the pump because the sun is at a low angle. Sunlight throughout the entire day during the late autumn and winter may not be strong enough to fully power the pump.
The panel does not need time to charge before it works and it does not have a built-in battery pack so it will not store any energy. It operates in direct sunlight only.
SOLAR PANEL (for amorphous panels made in Thailand)
The glass on the solar panel needs to be cleaned regularly with a glass cleaner to prevent it from developing any algae, dirt or hard water scale build up that would potentially filter or block the sunlight that the solar panel needs to be able to absorb to power the pump. Once it’s clean the glass should be smooth to the touch, however you may still see some water stains. Make sure that the solar panel has no cracks in the glass. If the panel has any cracks then it needs to be replaced. Hold the panel in the sun, look through the glass, and check for any silver spots or subtle red blotchy areas inside the panel. This would be signs that water has gotten past the seal around the edge and inside the panel. If the panel has this type of discoloration then it needs to be replaced. However, if there’s just a faded area that is an even strip across the whole panel then that is normal and the panel is ok. Look at the underside of the solar panel where the wire is connected to it. Gently flex it back and forth and make sure that there are no breaks in the wire and it has not come away from the panel. If you can see a white or yellow wire exposed then the panel needs to be replaced. If the panel is clean, has no cracks, no discoloration, and no breaks in the wire then it should be functional.
SOLAR PANEL (for polycrystalline panel #6016060P1)
The glass on the solar panel needs to be cleaned regularly with a glass cleaner to prevent it from developing any algae, dirt or scale build up that would potentially filter or block the sunlight that the solar panel needs to be able to absorb to power the pump. Once it’s clean the glass should be smooth to the touch. Make sure that the solar panel has no cracks in the glass. Look through the glass and check for any bubbles inside the panel. The solar cells inside a polycrystalline panel are shiny fragments and have different shades of blue at different angles. If there is a bubble under the glass and it does not reach the strips of cells then the panel should be ok. If the panel has any cracks or internal water damage spots then it needs to be replaced. Look at the underside of the solar panel where the wire is connected to it. Gently flex it back and forth and make sure that there are no breaks in the wire and it has not come away from the panel. If you can see a white or yellow wire exposed, a crack in the glass then you need to order a replacement. If the panel is clean and does not have any cracks then it should be functional.
CONNECTION (for panels made in Thailand & China)
Unplug the wire that connects the solar panel to the pump by pulling them apart. Check for any green or white build-up or corrosion on & in the silver plugs. This would be a sign that water got into the connection because it was not water tight. If there is any build-up in the plugs they will need to be cleaned and dried off before re-connecting them. If there is a lot of build up or rust on the silver plugs then the solar panel or pump or both might need to be replaced. Inspect the black or yellow or red rubber o-ring on the solar panel plug. If the o-ring is cracked or deteriorated then it needs to be replaced. If you are missing the o-ring then you will have an empty groove around the plug and you need to order a replacement. If the o-ring is ok then reconnect the plugs again. Be sure to twist them as you push them together until the entire o-ring on the solar panel plug is covered all the way around and inside the sleeve of the pump plug to ensure a water-tight connection. If you look at the plugs when it’s flat on a table you should not be able to see the o-ring.
TUBES & STONES (for Oxygenator)
Make sure the tubes are securely attached to the silver nozzles on the pump housing and that they are not blocked or kinked. Make sure the porous air stones are clean so that the air can escape through them.
BREATHER HOLE (for Oxygenator)
On the underside of the housing there is a 1” (2.5 cm) white circle with a small hole in the center. The pump draws in air through a filter in this hole. Make sure that the filter is not blocked with any dirt or debris. If the breather hole on the underside of the pump housing is dirty then you need to remove the cover and the motor to clean the breather hole from both sides. On the outside brush the dirt away with a soft brush. Do not poke the filter with anything sharp. On the inside there are 4 holes under the motor for the air to enter the housing. Blow air from the inside of the housing through the 4 holes to the outside of the housing. Reassemble the pump and housing. The pump body should not be placed in water. It should remain outside the water feature in a dry area. Only the tubes and stones should be submerged in water.
COVER (for Oxygenator)
Remove the 4 screws on the underside of the pump housing and lift the grey cover off to expose the motor and magnetic air pump.
INTERNAL INSPECTION (for Oxygenator)
Inspect all the internal rubber components for wear and tear. Make sure that there are no cracks in the rubber pieces that push the air. Make sure the internal clear rubber tubes that go from the air pump to the silver outlets are connected and don’t have any cracks. While the motor is running if you can feel any air coming from any of the internal rubber parts then this is causing a loss of pressure. If you can’t feel air escaping anywhere, then you may need to adjust the motor.
MOTOR ADJUSTMENT (for Oxygenator)
You can adjust motor to change the distance between the motor magnet and the magnetic arms that move back and forth on the air pump. Simply loosen the 2 screws the hold the motor in place and slide the motor to the desired position.
OPTIMUM CONDITIONS & ORIENTATION (for standard external panels)
The solar panel needs to be placed outside in direct sunlight, not indoors behind a window or screen which will filter the light, and not under artificial lighting (i.e. fluorescent or halogen) which will not make it work. Chose a suitable outdoor location where there are no trees that will filter the sunlight. Even the smallest amount of shading reduces panel’s output significantly. Since we are in the northern hemisphere we recommend facing the panel south and tilting it at an angle. The weather needs to be clear, not hazy or partly cloudy. Just because it’s hot outside and the panel is hot when you touch it does not mean the fountain should be working. Most people assume that the hotter it is outside the better the fountain will work. This is a common misconception, because even though the amount of energy produced by a solar panel is proportional to the strength of the sunlight it receives (based on season), contrary to what you may expect, the higher the temperature of the solar panel the more its output actually decreases! Generally, temperatures around 68°F or 20°C (room temp) are ideal. You will see the best results in the spring and summer months when the hours between sunrise and sunset are the longest, and in the middle of the day when the sun is directly overhead. Sunlight in the early morning and late afternoon on a nice day (even though it’s bright) may not be strong enough to fully power the pump because the sun is at a low angle. Sunlight throughout the entire day during the late autumn and winter may not be strong enough to fully power the pump.
The panel does not need time to charge before it works and it does not have a built-in battery pack so it will not store any energy. It operates in direct sunlight only.
SOLAR PANEL (for amorphous panels made in Thailand)
The glass on the solar panel needs to be cleaned regularly with a glass cleaner to prevent it from developing any algae, dirt or hard water scale build up that would potentially filter or block the sunlight that the solar panel needs to be able to absorb to power the pump. Once it’s clean the glass should be smooth to the touch, however you may still see some water stains. Make sure that the solar panel has no cracks in the glass. If the panel has any cracks then it needs to be replaced. Hold the panel in the sun, look through the glass, and check for any silver spots or subtle red blotchy areas inside the panel. This would be signs that water has gotten past the seal around the edge and inside the panel. If the panel has this type of discoloration then it needs to be replaced. However, if there’s just a faded area that is an even strip across the whole panel then that is normal and the panel is ok. Look at the underside of the solar panel where the wire is connected to it. Gently flex it back and forth and make sure that there are no breaks in the wire and it has not come away from the panel. If you can see a white or yellow wire exposed then the panel needs to be replaced. If the panel is clean, has no cracks, no discoloration, and no breaks in the wire then it should be functional.
SOLAR PANEL (for polycrystalline panel #6016060P1)
The glass on the solar panel needs to be cleaned regularly with a glass cleaner to prevent it from developing any algae, dirt or scale build up that would potentially filter or block the sunlight that the solar panel needs to be able to absorb to power the pump. Once it’s clean the glass should be smooth to the touch. Make sure that the solar panel has no cracks in the glass. Look through the glass and check for any bubbles inside the panel. The solar cells inside a polycrystalline panel are shiny fragments and have different shades of blue at different angles. If there is a bubble under the glass and it does not reach the strips of cells then the panel should be ok. If the panel has any cracks or internal water damage spots then it needs to be replaced. Look at the underside of the solar panel where the wire is connected to it. Gently flex it back and forth and make sure that there are no breaks in the wire and it has not come away from the panel. If you can see a white or yellow wire exposed, a crack in the glass then you need to order a replacement. If the panel is clean and does not have any cracks then it should be functional.
CONNECTION (for panels made in Thailand & China)
Unplug the wire that connects the solar panel to the pump by pulling them apart. Check for any green or white build-up or corrosion on & in the silver plugs. This would be a sign that water got into the connection because it was not water tight. If there is any build-up in the plugs they will need to be cleaned and dried off before re-connecting them. If there is a lot of build up or rust on the silver plugs then the solar panel or pump or both might need to be replaced. Inspect the black or yellow or red rubber o-ring on the solar panel plug. If the o-ring is cracked or deteriorated then it needs to be replaced. If you are missing the o-ring then you will have an empty groove around the plug and you need to order a replacement. If the o-ring is ok then reconnect the plugs again. Be sure to twist them as you push them together until the entire o-ring on the solar panel plug is covered all the way around and inside the sleeve of the pump plug to ensure a water-tight connection. If you look at the plugs when it’s flat on a table you should not be able to see the o-ring.
TUBES & STONES (for Oxygenator)
Make sure the tubes are securely attached to the silver nozzles on the pump housing and that they are not blocked or kinked. Make sure the porous air stones are clean so that the air can escape through them.
BREATHER HOLE (for Oxygenator)
On the underside of the housing there is a 1” (2.5 cm) white circle with a small hole in the center. The pump draws in air through a filter in this hole. Make sure that the filter is not blocked with any dirt or debris. If the breather hole on the underside of the pump housing is dirty then you need to remove the cover and the motor to clean the breather hole from both sides. On the outside brush the dirt away with a soft brush. Do not poke the filter with anything sharp. On the inside there are 4 holes under the motor for the air to enter the housing. Blow air from the inside of the housing through the 4 holes to the outside of the housing. Reassemble the pump and housing. The pump body should not be placed in water. It should remain outside the water feature in a dry area. Only the tubes and stones should be submerged in water.
COVER (for Oxygenator)
Remove the 4 screws on the underside of the pump housing and lift the grey cover off to expose the motor and magnetic air pump.
INTERNAL INSPECTION (for Oxygenator)
Inspect all the internal rubber components for wear and tear. Make sure that there are no cracks in the rubber pieces that push the air. Make sure the internal clear rubber tubes that go from the air pump to the silver outlets are connected and don’t have any cracks. While the motor is running if you can feel any air coming from any of the internal rubber parts then this is causing a loss of pressure. If you can’t feel air escaping anywhere, then you may need to adjust the motor.
MOTOR ADJUSTMENT (for Oxygenator)
You can adjust motor to change the distance between the motor magnet and the magnetic arms that move back and forth on the air pump. Simply loosen the 2 screws the hold the motor in place and slide the motor to the desired position.
• Oxygenator - My pump stopped working. What do I do?
Please review the troubleshooting information below:
OPTIMUM CONDITIONS & ORIENTATION (for standard external panels)
The solar panel needs to be placed outside in direct sunlight, not indoors behind a window or screen which will filter the light, and not under artificial lighting (i.e. fluorescent or halogen) which will not make it work. Chose a suitable outdoor location where there are no trees that will filter the sunlight. Even the smallest amount of shading reduces panel’s output significantly. Since we are in the northern hemisphere we recommend facing the panel south and tilting it at an angle.
The weather needs to be clear, not hazy or partly cloudy. Just because it’s hot outside and the panel is hot when you touch it does not mean the fountain should be working. Most people assume that the hotter it is outside the better the fountain will work. This is a common misconception, because even though the amount of energy produced by a solar panel is proportional to the strength of the sunlight it receives (based on season), contrary to what you may expect, the higher the temperature of the solar panel the more its output actually decreases, not increases! Generally, temperatures around 68°F or 20°C (room temp) are ideal. You will see the best results in the spring and summer months when the hours between sunrise and sunset are the longest, and in the middle of the day when the sun is directly overhead. Sunlight in the early morning and late afternoon on a nice day (even though it’s bright) may not be strong enough to fully power the pump because the sun is at a low angle. Sunlight throughout the entire day during the late autumn and winter may not be strong enough to fully power the pump.
The panel does not need time to charge before it works and it does not have a built-in battery pack so it will not store any energy. It operates in direct sunlight only.
SOLAR PANEL (for amorphous panels made in Thailand)
The glass on the solar panel needs to be cleaned regularly with a glass cleaner to prevent it from developing any algae, dirt or hard water scale build up that would potentially filter or block the sunlight that the solar panel needs to be able to absorb to power the pump. Once it’s clean the glass should be smooth to the touch, however you may still see some water stains. Make sure that the solar panel has no cracks in the glass. If the panel has any cracks then it needs to be replaced. Hold the panel in the sun, look through the glass, and check for any silver spots or subtle red blotchy areas inside the panel. This would be signs that water has gotten past the seal around the edge and inside the panel. If the panel has this type of discoloration then it needs to be replaced. However, if there’s just a faded area that is an even strip across the whole panel then that is normal and the panel is ok. Look at the underside of the solar panel where the wire is connected to it. Gently flex it back and forth and make sure that there are no breaks in the wire and it has not come away from the panel. If you can see a white or yellow wire exposed then the panel needs to be replaced. If the panel is clean, has no cracks, no discoloration, and no breaks in the wire then it should be functional.
SOLAR PANEL (for polycrystalline panel #6016060P1)
The glass on the solar panel needs to be cleaned regularly with a glass cleaner to prevent it from developing any algae, dirt or scale build up that would potentially filter or block the sunlight that the solar panel needs to be able to absorb to power the pump. Once it’s clean the glass should be smooth to the touch. Make sure that the solar panel has no cracks in the glass. Look through the glass and check for any bubbles inside the panel. The solar cells inside a polycrystalline panel are shiny fragments and have different shades of blue at different angles. If there is a bubble under the glass and it does not reach the strips of cells then the panel should be ok. If the panel has any cracks or internal water damage spots then it needs to be replaced. Look at the underside of the solar panel where the wire is connected to it. Gently flex it back and forth and make sure that there are no breaks in the wire and it has not come away from the panel. If you can see a white or yellow wire exposed, a crack in the glass then you need to order a replacement. If the panel is clean and does not have any cracks then it should be functional.
CONNECTION (for panels made in Thailand & China)
Unplug the wire that connects the solar panel to the pump by pulling them apart. Check for any green or white build-up or corrosion on & in the silver plugs. This would be a sign that water got into the connection because it was not water tight. If there is any build-up in the plugs they will need to be cleaned and dried off before re-connecting them. If there is a lot of build up or rust on the silver plugs then the solar panel or pump or both might need to be replaced. Inspect the black or yellow or red rubber o-ring on the solar panel plug. If the o-ring is cracked or deteriorated then it needs to be replaced. If you are missing the o-ring then you will have an empty groove around the plug and you need to order a replacement. If the o-ring is ok then reconnect the plugs again. Be sure to twist them as you push them together until the entire o-ring on the solar panel plug is covered all the way around and inside the sleeve of the pump plug to ensure a water-tight connection. If you look at the plugs when it’s flat on a table you should not be able to see the o-ring.
COVER (for Oxygenator)
Remove the 4 screws on the underside and lift the grey cover off to expose the motor and internal parts.
MANUAL START (universal)
If the impeller does not turn on its own, try manually starting the motor. To do so, take the pump and solar panel outside and make sure the connection is correct. Hold the pump so that the tubes come out the bottom of the housing. While facing the solar panel toward direct sunlight, turn the magnetic impeller to the right with your finger. Please note that attempting to try a manual start outside when it’s cloudy or indoors by holding the solar panel under a light in your house will not work. You must be outside in direct sunlight, not behind a window or screen.
MOTOR (for Oxygenator)
If the manual start does not work in optimum conditions you may need to replace the motor. To replace it, simply remove the 2 screws that hold it in place and lift it out. You will need to lift up a small section of the rubber gasket around the housing that goes over the wire in order to get the plug through the hole to remove the motor completely.
OPTIMUM CONDITIONS & ORIENTATION (for standard external panels)
The solar panel needs to be placed outside in direct sunlight, not indoors behind a window or screen which will filter the light, and not under artificial lighting (i.e. fluorescent or halogen) which will not make it work. Chose a suitable outdoor location where there are no trees that will filter the sunlight. Even the smallest amount of shading reduces panel’s output significantly. Since we are in the northern hemisphere we recommend facing the panel south and tilting it at an angle.
The weather needs to be clear, not hazy or partly cloudy. Just because it’s hot outside and the panel is hot when you touch it does not mean the fountain should be working. Most people assume that the hotter it is outside the better the fountain will work. This is a common misconception, because even though the amount of energy produced by a solar panel is proportional to the strength of the sunlight it receives (based on season), contrary to what you may expect, the higher the temperature of the solar panel the more its output actually decreases, not increases! Generally, temperatures around 68°F or 20°C (room temp) are ideal. You will see the best results in the spring and summer months when the hours between sunrise and sunset are the longest, and in the middle of the day when the sun is directly overhead. Sunlight in the early morning and late afternoon on a nice day (even though it’s bright) may not be strong enough to fully power the pump because the sun is at a low angle. Sunlight throughout the entire day during the late autumn and winter may not be strong enough to fully power the pump.
The panel does not need time to charge before it works and it does not have a built-in battery pack so it will not store any energy. It operates in direct sunlight only.
SOLAR PANEL (for amorphous panels made in Thailand)
The glass on the solar panel needs to be cleaned regularly with a glass cleaner to prevent it from developing any algae, dirt or hard water scale build up that would potentially filter or block the sunlight that the solar panel needs to be able to absorb to power the pump. Once it’s clean the glass should be smooth to the touch, however you may still see some water stains. Make sure that the solar panel has no cracks in the glass. If the panel has any cracks then it needs to be replaced. Hold the panel in the sun, look through the glass, and check for any silver spots or subtle red blotchy areas inside the panel. This would be signs that water has gotten past the seal around the edge and inside the panel. If the panel has this type of discoloration then it needs to be replaced. However, if there’s just a faded area that is an even strip across the whole panel then that is normal and the panel is ok. Look at the underside of the solar panel where the wire is connected to it. Gently flex it back and forth and make sure that there are no breaks in the wire and it has not come away from the panel. If you can see a white or yellow wire exposed then the panel needs to be replaced. If the panel is clean, has no cracks, no discoloration, and no breaks in the wire then it should be functional.
SOLAR PANEL (for polycrystalline panel #6016060P1)
The glass on the solar panel needs to be cleaned regularly with a glass cleaner to prevent it from developing any algae, dirt or scale build up that would potentially filter or block the sunlight that the solar panel needs to be able to absorb to power the pump. Once it’s clean the glass should be smooth to the touch. Make sure that the solar panel has no cracks in the glass. Look through the glass and check for any bubbles inside the panel. The solar cells inside a polycrystalline panel are shiny fragments and have different shades of blue at different angles. If there is a bubble under the glass and it does not reach the strips of cells then the panel should be ok. If the panel has any cracks or internal water damage spots then it needs to be replaced. Look at the underside of the solar panel where the wire is connected to it. Gently flex it back and forth and make sure that there are no breaks in the wire and it has not come away from the panel. If you can see a white or yellow wire exposed, a crack in the glass then you need to order a replacement. If the panel is clean and does not have any cracks then it should be functional.
CONNECTION (for panels made in Thailand & China)
Unplug the wire that connects the solar panel to the pump by pulling them apart. Check for any green or white build-up or corrosion on & in the silver plugs. This would be a sign that water got into the connection because it was not water tight. If there is any build-up in the plugs they will need to be cleaned and dried off before re-connecting them. If there is a lot of build up or rust on the silver plugs then the solar panel or pump or both might need to be replaced. Inspect the black or yellow or red rubber o-ring on the solar panel plug. If the o-ring is cracked or deteriorated then it needs to be replaced. If you are missing the o-ring then you will have an empty groove around the plug and you need to order a replacement. If the o-ring is ok then reconnect the plugs again. Be sure to twist them as you push them together until the entire o-ring on the solar panel plug is covered all the way around and inside the sleeve of the pump plug to ensure a water-tight connection. If you look at the plugs when it’s flat on a table you should not be able to see the o-ring.
COVER (for Oxygenator)
Remove the 4 screws on the underside and lift the grey cover off to expose the motor and internal parts.
MANUAL START (universal)
If the impeller does not turn on its own, try manually starting the motor. To do so, take the pump and solar panel outside and make sure the connection is correct. Hold the pump so that the tubes come out the bottom of the housing. While facing the solar panel toward direct sunlight, turn the magnetic impeller to the right with your finger. Please note that attempting to try a manual start outside when it’s cloudy or indoors by holding the solar panel under a light in your house will not work. You must be outside in direct sunlight, not behind a window or screen.
MOTOR (for Oxygenator)
If the manual start does not work in optimum conditions you may need to replace the motor. To replace it, simply remove the 2 screws that hold it in place and lift it out. You will need to lift up a small section of the rubber gasket around the housing that goes over the wire in order to get the plug through the hole to remove the motor completely.
Solar Floating Lily Pad
• Lily - How do I get my pump apart to clean it? (T)
This applies to the following products:
Lily, SunJet 150, SunJet 150 Plus, SunJet 290-M, SunJet 290-B, SunJet 380
Please review the troubleshooting information below:
FILTER HOUSING / CASE / SHELL (Part # ‘FHousing’ for pumps made in Thailand)
Some of our pumps may have a filter housing case around the entire pump. It’s teardrop shaped with rows of small holes all the way around it. It has a ‘Smart Solar’ logo sticker on the front with ‘ABS’ below it and on the back of it, and may have 3 suction cups on the bottom. This housing needs to be removed in order to access the pump. To open the housing, press down on the ‘PRESS’ arrow on the top of the housing and separate it into 2 halves. If you do not have the filter housing case around your pump you do not need to order a replacement, but it’s available an optional accessory.
PUMP COVER (Part # ‘pcover’, for pumps made in Thailand)
Hold the pump so you can read the white label. The top of the pump where the wire comes out is sealed. Do not attempt to open the top of the pump. There are 4 vertical bumps around the bottom of the pump that are shaped like arrows that point downward. The line that goes through all the arrows is where it separates. It is not sealed and is removable. This end of the pump is called the pump cover. It’s shaped like a '6' or ‘9’ and may have a spongy filter attached to it. You can pull/pop this end straight off. Do not try to twist it off and do not pull by the filter otherwise you will rip it off. If you have trouble removing the pump cover, try prying it off using your fingernail, a butter knife, or flat-head screwdriver on the triangle of the second arrow from the right which is below the middle of the white label. Once removed, clean the inside of the cover. Rinse the filter regularly so that it does not become dirty enough to restrict the water flow. If you can touch the impeller already then you are missing the pump cover and need to order a replacement.
IMPELLER (Part # ‘impeller’, for pumps made in Thailand)
Underneath the pump cover is a circular magnetic impeller with two fins that spins on a silver metal pin. The pin is fixed and does not turn. Remove the magnetic impeller with pliers by pinching one of the fins and pulling it straight off or get under it with something flat and lift it off. Make sure the pump housing and impeller are clean and that there is no sediment or scale build-up inside that would restrict it from turning easily. If you are missing the impeller then you need to order a replacement.
PUMP MOTOR (Part # ‘20020p01’, ‘20500p01’, etc, for pumps made in Thailand)
Once you have removed the pump cover and impeller you will be able to see the whole impeller axle. The pin is fixed and does not turn. Clean down around the pin with a Q-tip. Make sure the pump housing is clean and that there is no sediment or scale build-up inside that would restrict the impeller from turn easily.
Lily, SunJet 150, SunJet 150 Plus, SunJet 290-M, SunJet 290-B, SunJet 380
Please review the troubleshooting information below:
FILTER HOUSING / CASE / SHELL (Part # ‘FHousing’ for pumps made in Thailand)
Some of our pumps may have a filter housing case around the entire pump. It’s teardrop shaped with rows of small holes all the way around it. It has a ‘Smart Solar’ logo sticker on the front with ‘ABS’ below it and on the back of it, and may have 3 suction cups on the bottom. This housing needs to be removed in order to access the pump. To open the housing, press down on the ‘PRESS’ arrow on the top of the housing and separate it into 2 halves. If you do not have the filter housing case around your pump you do not need to order a replacement, but it’s available an optional accessory.
PUMP COVER (Part # ‘pcover’, for pumps made in Thailand)
Hold the pump so you can read the white label. The top of the pump where the wire comes out is sealed. Do not attempt to open the top of the pump. There are 4 vertical bumps around the bottom of the pump that are shaped like arrows that point downward. The line that goes through all the arrows is where it separates. It is not sealed and is removable. This end of the pump is called the pump cover. It’s shaped like a '6' or ‘9’ and may have a spongy filter attached to it. You can pull/pop this end straight off. Do not try to twist it off and do not pull by the filter otherwise you will rip it off. If you have trouble removing the pump cover, try prying it off using your fingernail, a butter knife, or flat-head screwdriver on the triangle of the second arrow from the right which is below the middle of the white label. Once removed, clean the inside of the cover. Rinse the filter regularly so that it does not become dirty enough to restrict the water flow. If you can touch the impeller already then you are missing the pump cover and need to order a replacement.
IMPELLER (Part # ‘impeller’, for pumps made in Thailand)
Underneath the pump cover is a circular magnetic impeller with two fins that spins on a silver metal pin. The pin is fixed and does not turn. Remove the magnetic impeller with pliers by pinching one of the fins and pulling it straight off or get under it with something flat and lift it off. Make sure the pump housing and impeller are clean and that there is no sediment or scale build-up inside that would restrict it from turning easily. If you are missing the impeller then you need to order a replacement.
PUMP MOTOR (Part # ‘20020p01’, ‘20500p01’, etc, for pumps made in Thailand)
Once you have removed the pump cover and impeller you will be able to see the whole impeller axle. The pin is fixed and does not turn. Clean down around the pin with a Q-tip. Make sure the pump housing is clean and that there is no sediment or scale build-up inside that would restrict the impeller from turn easily.
• Lily - How do I get my pump apart to clean it? (C)
This applies to the following products:
Lily, SunJet 150, SunJet 150 Plus, SunJet 290-M, SunJet 290-B, SunJet 380
Please review the troubleshooting information below:
PUMP COVER WITH FILTER (Part # ‘160xfk’, for pumps made in China)
Hold the pump so you can read the black label on the side. The left half of the pump has slits all around it. This end of the pump is the pump cover and it has a spongy filter inside of it. You can pull this end straight off. Do not try to twist it off. Once it’s off, remove the filter from the cover. Rinse the filter out and clean the slits on the cover. Rinse the filter regularly so that it does not become dirty enough to restrict the water flow. If you are missing the pump cover then you need to order a replacement.
IMPELLER COVER (Part # n/a, for pumps made in China)
Underneath the pump cover is a piece with 3 prongs coming out of it, a hole in the middle and a spout at the top. This piece is the impeller cover. Through the hole in the center you can see the white impeller. Turn the cover clockwise from the 12 o’clock position to the 2 o’clock position and when the tabs on the pump body line up with the grooves on the cover it will come off. Do not try to pull the cover off without turning it first or you will break one of the tabs on the pump body off. Clean the inside of the impeller cover to make sure there is no sediment or scale build-up inside that would restrict the impeller from turning properly. If you are missing the impeller cover then you need to order a replacement.
IMPELLER (Part # n/a, for pumps made in China)
Underneath the pump cover and the impeller cover is a white magnetic impeller with four fins that spins on a silver metal pin. The pin is fixed and does not turn. Remove the magnetic impeller by pinching one of the fins and pulling it straight off. If the fins on the impeller do not appear to be white then it is not clean. Make sure the impeller is clean and that there is no sediment or scale build-up on it that would restrict it from turning easily. If you are missing the impeller then you need to order a replacement.
PUMP MOTOR (Part # ‘SP-160X01’, ‘SP-160X3S’, etc, for pumps made in China’)
Once you have removed the pump cover, impeller cover, and impeller you will be able to see down into the impeller shaft and see the whole silver metal pin. The pin is fixed and does not turn. Clean down around the pin and the bottom of the shaft with a Q-tip. Make sure the pump housing is clean and that there is no sediment or scale build-up inside that would restrict the impeller from turn easily.
Lily, SunJet 150, SunJet 150 Plus, SunJet 290-M, SunJet 290-B, SunJet 380
Please review the troubleshooting information below:
PUMP COVER WITH FILTER (Part # ‘160xfk’, for pumps made in China)
Hold the pump so you can read the black label on the side. The left half of the pump has slits all around it. This end of the pump is the pump cover and it has a spongy filter inside of it. You can pull this end straight off. Do not try to twist it off. Once it’s off, remove the filter from the cover. Rinse the filter out and clean the slits on the cover. Rinse the filter regularly so that it does not become dirty enough to restrict the water flow. If you are missing the pump cover then you need to order a replacement.
IMPELLER COVER (Part # n/a, for pumps made in China)
Underneath the pump cover is a piece with 3 prongs coming out of it, a hole in the middle and a spout at the top. This piece is the impeller cover. Through the hole in the center you can see the white impeller. Turn the cover clockwise from the 12 o’clock position to the 2 o’clock position and when the tabs on the pump body line up with the grooves on the cover it will come off. Do not try to pull the cover off without turning it first or you will break one of the tabs on the pump body off. Clean the inside of the impeller cover to make sure there is no sediment or scale build-up inside that would restrict the impeller from turning properly. If you are missing the impeller cover then you need to order a replacement.
IMPELLER (Part # n/a, for pumps made in China)
Underneath the pump cover and the impeller cover is a white magnetic impeller with four fins that spins on a silver metal pin. The pin is fixed and does not turn. Remove the magnetic impeller by pinching one of the fins and pulling it straight off. If the fins on the impeller do not appear to be white then it is not clean. Make sure the impeller is clean and that there is no sediment or scale build-up on it that would restrict it from turning easily. If you are missing the impeller then you need to order a replacement.
PUMP MOTOR (Part # ‘SP-160X01’, ‘SP-160X3S’, etc, for pumps made in China’)
Once you have removed the pump cover, impeller cover, and impeller you will be able to see down into the impeller shaft and see the whole silver metal pin. The pin is fixed and does not turn. Clean down around the pin and the bottom of the shaft with a Q-tip. Make sure the pump housing is clean and that there is no sediment or scale build-up inside that would restrict the impeller from turn easily.
• Lily - My pump runs very loudly and doesn’t pump. What do I do? (T)
This applies to the following products:
Lily, SunJet 150, SunJet 150 Plus, SunJet 290-M, SunJet 290-B, SunJet 380
Please review the troubleshooting information below:
SUBMERGED (universal)
Make sure that the pump is fully submerged in the water. If the pump is running out of the water is can make a constant loud noise as it runs dry. This will eventually cause the pump to burn out.
PUMP COVER (Part # ‘pcover’, for pumps made in Thailand)
Hold the pump so you can read the white label. There are 4 vertical bumps around the bottom of the pump that are shaped like arrows that point downward. The line that goes through all the arrows is where it separates. This end of the pump is the pump cover. It’s shaped like a '6' or ‘9’ and may have a spongy filter attached to it. You can pull/pop this end straight off. Do not try to twist it off and don’t pull by the filter or you will rip it off. If you have trouble removing the pump cover, try prying it off using your fingernail, a butter knife, or flat-head screwdriver on the triangle of the second arrow from the right which is below the middle of the white label. Once removed, clean the inside of the cover. Rinse the filter regularly so that it does not become dirty enough to restrict the water flow. If you are missing the pump cover then you need to order replacement parts.
IMPELLER (Part # ‘impeller’, for pumps made in Thailand)
Underneath the pump cover is a circular magnetic impeller with two fins that spins on a silver metal pin. The pin is fixed and does not turn. Remove the magnetic impeller with pliers by pulling it straight off by one of the fins or get under it with something flat and lift it off. Make sure the pump housing and impeller are clean and that there is no sediment or scale build-up inside that would restrict it from turning easily. If you are missing the impeller then you need to order replacement parts.
MOTOR (for pump made in Thailand)
Leave the pump cover and impeller off of the pump and allow the pump to run. The motor should make a smooth and quiet humming noise. If so, then the motor is functioning properly. If the motor makes a loud noise without the pump cover and impeller attached then there is a problem internally with the motor and you will need to order a replacement pump. Disconnect or cover the solar panel so that the motor stops running and re-attach the impeller and pump cover, making sure that the 2 fins on the impeller face you and the cover is snapped on securely all the way around. If the motor runs normally for a few seconds and then stops pumping and runs loudly, this is referred to as de-coupling. If you are experiencing de-coupling please contact us for a replacement pump.
DE-COUPLING (for pump made in Thailand)
In order to improve the performance of the pump in low light or partly cloudy conditions, upgrades were made in 2006 to the solar panels that were made in Thailand. The pump needs a certain amount of energy before it can start working. The solar panel builds up energy for approximately 5-10 seconds in a capacitor and then gives the pump a boost in order to get it running, instead of having to remove the pump cover and turn the impeller to manually with your finger to start it. In rare conditions where the sun is very strong, the internal motor magnet will spin too quickly for the impeller. If the magnetic impeller cannot spin as fast as the motor magnet it will not be aligned and end up pushing away from the motor and make contact with the pump cover. This causes the pump stop pumping, but it continues to run and starts making a loud noise because the impeller is hitting the cover. We refer to this as ‘de-coupling’. The motor needs to be stopped before the impeller will reseat itself in the proper position.
Please note that de-coupling may only occur with pumps that were made in Thailand when used in certain areas of the country that receive very strong sunlight during the peak summer days. It will not occur during the winter, spring or autumn in the same regions.
Lily, SunJet 150, SunJet 150 Plus, SunJet 290-M, SunJet 290-B, SunJet 380
Please review the troubleshooting information below:
SUBMERGED (universal)
Make sure that the pump is fully submerged in the water. If the pump is running out of the water is can make a constant loud noise as it runs dry. This will eventually cause the pump to burn out.
PUMP COVER (Part # ‘pcover’, for pumps made in Thailand)
Hold the pump so you can read the white label. There are 4 vertical bumps around the bottom of the pump that are shaped like arrows that point downward. The line that goes through all the arrows is where it separates. This end of the pump is the pump cover. It’s shaped like a '6' or ‘9’ and may have a spongy filter attached to it. You can pull/pop this end straight off. Do not try to twist it off and don’t pull by the filter or you will rip it off. If you have trouble removing the pump cover, try prying it off using your fingernail, a butter knife, or flat-head screwdriver on the triangle of the second arrow from the right which is below the middle of the white label. Once removed, clean the inside of the cover. Rinse the filter regularly so that it does not become dirty enough to restrict the water flow. If you are missing the pump cover then you need to order replacement parts.
IMPELLER (Part # ‘impeller’, for pumps made in Thailand)
Underneath the pump cover is a circular magnetic impeller with two fins that spins on a silver metal pin. The pin is fixed and does not turn. Remove the magnetic impeller with pliers by pulling it straight off by one of the fins or get under it with something flat and lift it off. Make sure the pump housing and impeller are clean and that there is no sediment or scale build-up inside that would restrict it from turning easily. If you are missing the impeller then you need to order replacement parts.
MOTOR (for pump made in Thailand)
Leave the pump cover and impeller off of the pump and allow the pump to run. The motor should make a smooth and quiet humming noise. If so, then the motor is functioning properly. If the motor makes a loud noise without the pump cover and impeller attached then there is a problem internally with the motor and you will need to order a replacement pump. Disconnect or cover the solar panel so that the motor stops running and re-attach the impeller and pump cover, making sure that the 2 fins on the impeller face you and the cover is snapped on securely all the way around. If the motor runs normally for a few seconds and then stops pumping and runs loudly, this is referred to as de-coupling. If you are experiencing de-coupling please contact us for a replacement pump.
DE-COUPLING (for pump made in Thailand)
In order to improve the performance of the pump in low light or partly cloudy conditions, upgrades were made in 2006 to the solar panels that were made in Thailand. The pump needs a certain amount of energy before it can start working. The solar panel builds up energy for approximately 5-10 seconds in a capacitor and then gives the pump a boost in order to get it running, instead of having to remove the pump cover and turn the impeller to manually with your finger to start it. In rare conditions where the sun is very strong, the internal motor magnet will spin too quickly for the impeller. If the magnetic impeller cannot spin as fast as the motor magnet it will not be aligned and end up pushing away from the motor and make contact with the pump cover. This causes the pump stop pumping, but it continues to run and starts making a loud noise because the impeller is hitting the cover. We refer to this as ‘de-coupling’. The motor needs to be stopped before the impeller will reseat itself in the proper position.
Please note that de-coupling may only occur with pumps that were made in Thailand when used in certain areas of the country that receive very strong sunlight during the peak summer days. It will not occur during the winter, spring or autumn in the same regions.
• Lily - My pump runs very loudly and doesn’t pump. What do I do? (C)
This applies to the following products:
Lily, SunJet 150, SunJet 150 Plus, SunJet 290-M, SunJet 290-B, SunJet 380
Please review the troubleshooting information below:
SUBMERGED (universal)
Make sure that the pump is fully submerged in the water. If the pump is running out of the water is can make a constant loud noise as it runs dry. This will eventually cause the pump to burn out.
PUMP COVER WITH FILTER (for pump made in China)
Hold the pump so you can read the black label on the side. The left half of the pump has slits all around it. This end of the pump is the pump cover and it has a spongy filter inside of it. You can pull this end straight off. Do not try to twist it off. Once it’s off, remove the filter from the cover. Rinse the filter out and clean the slits on the cover. Rinse the filter regularly so that it does not become dirty enough to restrict the water flow. If you are missing the pump cover then you need to order replacement parts.
IMPELLER COVER (for pump made in China)
Underneath the pump cover is a piece with 3 prongs coming out of it, a hole in the middle and a spout at the top. This piece is the impeller cover. Through the hole in the center you can see the white impeller. Turn the cover clockwise from the 12 o’clock position to the 2 o’clock position and when the tabs on the pump body line up with the grooves on the cover it will come off. Do not try to pull the cover off without turning it first or you will break one of the tabs on the pump body off. Clean the inside of the impeller cover to make sure there is no sediment or scale build-up inside that would restrict the impeller from turning properly. If you are missing the impeller cover then you need to order replacement parts.
IMPELLER (for pump made in China)
Underneath the pump cover and the impeller cover is a white magnetic impeller with four fins that spins on a silver metal pin. The pin is fixed and does not turn. Remove the magnetic impeller by pinching one of the fins and pulling it straight off. If the fins on the impeller do not appear to be white then it is not clean. Make sure the impeller is clean and that there is no sediment or scale build-up on it that would restrict it from turning easily. If you are missing the impeller then you need to order replacement parts.
MOTOR (for pump made in China)
Leave the pump cover and impeller cover and impeller off of the pump. The motor should not make any noise or vibration at all while it’s running. It should appear to do nothing without the impeller. If so, then the motor is functioning properly.
Lily, SunJet 150, SunJet 150 Plus, SunJet 290-M, SunJet 290-B, SunJet 380
Please review the troubleshooting information below:
SUBMERGED (universal)
Make sure that the pump is fully submerged in the water. If the pump is running out of the water is can make a constant loud noise as it runs dry. This will eventually cause the pump to burn out.
PUMP COVER WITH FILTER (for pump made in China)
Hold the pump so you can read the black label on the side. The left half of the pump has slits all around it. This end of the pump is the pump cover and it has a spongy filter inside of it. You can pull this end straight off. Do not try to twist it off. Once it’s off, remove the filter from the cover. Rinse the filter out and clean the slits on the cover. Rinse the filter regularly so that it does not become dirty enough to restrict the water flow. If you are missing the pump cover then you need to order replacement parts.
IMPELLER COVER (for pump made in China)
Underneath the pump cover is a piece with 3 prongs coming out of it, a hole in the middle and a spout at the top. This piece is the impeller cover. Through the hole in the center you can see the white impeller. Turn the cover clockwise from the 12 o’clock position to the 2 o’clock position and when the tabs on the pump body line up with the grooves on the cover it will come off. Do not try to pull the cover off without turning it first or you will break one of the tabs on the pump body off. Clean the inside of the impeller cover to make sure there is no sediment or scale build-up inside that would restrict the impeller from turning properly. If you are missing the impeller cover then you need to order replacement parts.
IMPELLER (for pump made in China)
Underneath the pump cover and the impeller cover is a white magnetic impeller with four fins that spins on a silver metal pin. The pin is fixed and does not turn. Remove the magnetic impeller by pinching one of the fins and pulling it straight off. If the fins on the impeller do not appear to be white then it is not clean. Make sure the impeller is clean and that there is no sediment or scale build-up on it that would restrict it from turning easily. If you are missing the impeller then you need to order replacement parts.
MOTOR (for pump made in China)
Leave the pump cover and impeller cover and impeller off of the pump. The motor should not make any noise or vibration at all while it’s running. It should appear to do nothing without the impeller. If so, then the motor is functioning properly.
• Lily - My pump runs quietly but doesn’t pump. What do I do? (T)
Please review the troubleshooting information below:
OPTIMUM CONDITIONS & ORIENTATION (for standard integrated panels)
The solar panel needs to be placed outside in direct sunlight, not indoors behind a window or screen which will filter the light, and not under artificial lighting (i.e. fluorescent or halogen) which will not make it work. Chose a suitable outdoor location where there are no trees that will filter the sunlight. Even the smallest amount of shading reduces panel’s output significantly.
The weather needs to be clear, not hazy or partly cloudy. Just because it’s hot outside and the panel is hot when you touch it does not mean the fountain should be working. Most people assume that the hotter it is outside the better the fountain will work. This is a common misconception, because even though the amount of energy produced by a solar panel is proportional to the strength of the sunlight it receives (based on season), contrary to what you may expect, the higher the temperature of the solar panel the more its output actually decreases, not increases! Generally, temperatures around 68°F or 20°C (room temp) are ideal. You will see the best results in the spring and summer months when the hours between sunrise and sunset are the longest, and in the middle of the day when the sun is directly overhead. Sunlight in the early morning and late afternoon on a nice day (even though it’s bright) may not be strong enough to fully power the pump because the sun is at a low angle. Since you can’t tilt the solar panel because it’s integrated into the fountain it will be less efficient at this time. Also, sunlight throughout the entire day during the late autumn and winter may not be strong enough to fully power the pump.
The panel does not need time to charge before it works and it does not have a built-in battery pack so it will not store any energy. It operates in direct sunlight only.
SOLAR PANEL (for amorphous panel made in Thailand)
The glass on the solar panel needs to be cleaned regularly with a glass cleaner to prevent it from developing any algae, dirt or hard water scale build up that would potentially filter or block the sunlight that the solar panel needs to be able to absorb to power the pump. Once it’s clean the glass should be smooth to the touch, however you may still see some water stains. Make sure that the solar panel has no cracks in the glass. If the panel has any cracks then it needs to be replaced. Hold the panel in the sun, look through the glass, and check for any silver spots or subtle red blotchy areas inside the panel. This would be signs that water has gotten past the seal around the edge and inside the panel. If the panel has this type of discoloration then it needs to be replaced. However, if there’s just a faded area that is an even strip across the whole panel then that is normal and the panel is ok. Look at the underside of the solar panel where the wire is connected to it. Gently flex it back and forth and make sure that there are no breaks in the wire and it has not come away from the panel. If you can see a white or yellow wire exposed then the panel needs to be replaced. If the panel is clean, has no cracks, no discoloration, and no breaks in the wire then it should be functional.
CONNECTION (for panel made in Thailand)
Unplug the wire that connects the solar panel to the pump by pulling them apart. Check for any green or white build-up or corrosion on & in the silver plugs. This would be a sign that water got into the connection because it was not water tight. If there is any build-up in the plugs they will need to be cleaned and dried off before re-connecting them. If there is a lot of build up or rust on the silver plugs then the solar panel or pump or both might need to be replaced. Inspect the black or yellow rubber o-ring on the solar panel plug. If the o-ring is cracked or deteriorated then it needs to be replaced. If you are missing the o-ring then you will have an empty groove around the plug and you need to order a replacement. If the o-ring is ok then reconnect the plugs again. Be sure to twist them as you push them together until the entire o-ring on the solar panel plug is covered all the way around and inside the sleeve of the pump plug to ensure a water-tight connection. If you look at the plugs when it’s flat on a table you should not be able to see the o-ring.
TUBE (for Lily)
Make sure the pump tube is securely attached to the tube on the bottom of the solar panel. If your pump swings around or dangles on the wire when you lift up the lily then the tube is not connected. The pump will not be able to push the water up through the panel if the tube is not connected.
PUMP COVER (for pump made in Thailand)
Hold the pump so you can read the white label. The top of the pump where the wire comes out is sealed. Do not attempt to open the top of the pump. There are 4 vertical bumps around the bottom of the pump that are shaped like arrows that point downward. The line that goes through all the arrows is where it separates. It is not sealed and is removable. This end of the pump is called the pump cover. It’s shaped like a '6' or ‘9’ and may have a spongy filter attached to it. You can pull/pop this end straight off. Do not try to twist it off and do not pull by the filter otherwise you will rip it off. If you have trouble removing the pump cover, try prying it off using your fingernail, a butter knife, or flat-head screwdriver on the triangle of the second arrow from the right which is below the middle of the white label. Once removed, clean the inside of the cover. Rinse the filter regularly so that it does not become dirty enough to restrict the water flow. If you can touch the impeller already then you are missing the pump cover and need to order a replacement.
IMPELLER (for pump made in Thailand)
Underneath the pump cover is a circular magnetic impeller with two fins that spins on a silver metal pin. The pin is fixed and does not turn. Remove the magnetic impeller with pliers by pinching one of the fins and pulling it straight off or get under it with something flat and lift it off. Make sure the pump housing and impeller are clean and that there is no sediment or scale build-up inside that would restrict it from turning easily. If you are missing the impeller then you need to order replacement parts.
AIR (Lily)
If the motor begins to run and the impeller spins on its own then re-attach the pump cover making sure that its snapped on securely all the way around. Place the lily back into the water. You may want to submerge the entire lily (including the tube and fountain head set on the top) all the way for a couple seconds to help get any air out and then let it float back to the surface. It may take a few minutes in direct sunlight before all the air is expelled and water begins to spray up through the solar panel. Don’t pour water down the tube to ‘help get the air out’ as this will only make it harder for the pump impeller to spin in the right direction.
OPTIMUM CONDITIONS & ORIENTATION (for standard integrated panels)
The solar panel needs to be placed outside in direct sunlight, not indoors behind a window or screen which will filter the light, and not under artificial lighting (i.e. fluorescent or halogen) which will not make it work. Chose a suitable outdoor location where there are no trees that will filter the sunlight. Even the smallest amount of shading reduces panel’s output significantly.
The weather needs to be clear, not hazy or partly cloudy. Just because it’s hot outside and the panel is hot when you touch it does not mean the fountain should be working. Most people assume that the hotter it is outside the better the fountain will work. This is a common misconception, because even though the amount of energy produced by a solar panel is proportional to the strength of the sunlight it receives (based on season), contrary to what you may expect, the higher the temperature of the solar panel the more its output actually decreases, not increases! Generally, temperatures around 68°F or 20°C (room temp) are ideal. You will see the best results in the spring and summer months when the hours between sunrise and sunset are the longest, and in the middle of the day when the sun is directly overhead. Sunlight in the early morning and late afternoon on a nice day (even though it’s bright) may not be strong enough to fully power the pump because the sun is at a low angle. Since you can’t tilt the solar panel because it’s integrated into the fountain it will be less efficient at this time. Also, sunlight throughout the entire day during the late autumn and winter may not be strong enough to fully power the pump.
The panel does not need time to charge before it works and it does not have a built-in battery pack so it will not store any energy. It operates in direct sunlight only.
SOLAR PANEL (for amorphous panel made in Thailand)
The glass on the solar panel needs to be cleaned regularly with a glass cleaner to prevent it from developing any algae, dirt or hard water scale build up that would potentially filter or block the sunlight that the solar panel needs to be able to absorb to power the pump. Once it’s clean the glass should be smooth to the touch, however you may still see some water stains. Make sure that the solar panel has no cracks in the glass. If the panel has any cracks then it needs to be replaced. Hold the panel in the sun, look through the glass, and check for any silver spots or subtle red blotchy areas inside the panel. This would be signs that water has gotten past the seal around the edge and inside the panel. If the panel has this type of discoloration then it needs to be replaced. However, if there’s just a faded area that is an even strip across the whole panel then that is normal and the panel is ok. Look at the underside of the solar panel where the wire is connected to it. Gently flex it back and forth and make sure that there are no breaks in the wire and it has not come away from the panel. If you can see a white or yellow wire exposed then the panel needs to be replaced. If the panel is clean, has no cracks, no discoloration, and no breaks in the wire then it should be functional.
CONNECTION (for panel made in Thailand)
Unplug the wire that connects the solar panel to the pump by pulling them apart. Check for any green or white build-up or corrosion on & in the silver plugs. This would be a sign that water got into the connection because it was not water tight. If there is any build-up in the plugs they will need to be cleaned and dried off before re-connecting them. If there is a lot of build up or rust on the silver plugs then the solar panel or pump or both might need to be replaced. Inspect the black or yellow rubber o-ring on the solar panel plug. If the o-ring is cracked or deteriorated then it needs to be replaced. If you are missing the o-ring then you will have an empty groove around the plug and you need to order a replacement. If the o-ring is ok then reconnect the plugs again. Be sure to twist them as you push them together until the entire o-ring on the solar panel plug is covered all the way around and inside the sleeve of the pump plug to ensure a water-tight connection. If you look at the plugs when it’s flat on a table you should not be able to see the o-ring.
TUBE (for Lily)
Make sure the pump tube is securely attached to the tube on the bottom of the solar panel. If your pump swings around or dangles on the wire when you lift up the lily then the tube is not connected. The pump will not be able to push the water up through the panel if the tube is not connected.
PUMP COVER (for pump made in Thailand)
Hold the pump so you can read the white label. The top of the pump where the wire comes out is sealed. Do not attempt to open the top of the pump. There are 4 vertical bumps around the bottom of the pump that are shaped like arrows that point downward. The line that goes through all the arrows is where it separates. It is not sealed and is removable. This end of the pump is called the pump cover. It’s shaped like a '6' or ‘9’ and may have a spongy filter attached to it. You can pull/pop this end straight off. Do not try to twist it off and do not pull by the filter otherwise you will rip it off. If you have trouble removing the pump cover, try prying it off using your fingernail, a butter knife, or flat-head screwdriver on the triangle of the second arrow from the right which is below the middle of the white label. Once removed, clean the inside of the cover. Rinse the filter regularly so that it does not become dirty enough to restrict the water flow. If you can touch the impeller already then you are missing the pump cover and need to order a replacement.
IMPELLER (for pump made in Thailand)
Underneath the pump cover is a circular magnetic impeller with two fins that spins on a silver metal pin. The pin is fixed and does not turn. Remove the magnetic impeller with pliers by pinching one of the fins and pulling it straight off or get under it with something flat and lift it off. Make sure the pump housing and impeller are clean and that there is no sediment or scale build-up inside that would restrict it from turning easily. If you are missing the impeller then you need to order replacement parts.
AIR (Lily)
If the motor begins to run and the impeller spins on its own then re-attach the pump cover making sure that its snapped on securely all the way around. Place the lily back into the water. You may want to submerge the entire lily (including the tube and fountain head set on the top) all the way for a couple seconds to help get any air out and then let it float back to the surface. It may take a few minutes in direct sunlight before all the air is expelled and water begins to spray up through the solar panel. Don’t pour water down the tube to ‘help get the air out’ as this will only make it harder for the pump impeller to spin in the right direction.
• Lily - My pump runs quietly but doesn’t pump. What do I do? (C)
Please review the troubleshooting information below:
OPTIMUM CONDITIONS & ORIENTATION (for standard integrated panels)
The solar panel needs to be placed outside in direct sunlight, not indoors behind a window or screen which will filter the light, and not under artificial lighting (i.e. fluorescent or halogen) which will not make it work. Chose a suitable outdoor location where there are no trees that will filter the sunlight. Even the smallest amount of shading reduces panel’s output significantly.
The weather needs to be clear, not hazy or partly cloudy. Just because it’s hot outside and the panel is hot when you touch it does not mean the fountain should be working. Most people assume that the hotter it is outside the better the fountain will work. This is a common misconception, because even though the amount of energy produced by a solar panel is proportional to the strength of the sunlight it receives (based on season), contrary to what you may expect, the higher the temperature of the solar panel the more its output actually decreases, not increases! Generally, temperatures around 68°F or 20°C (room temp) are ideal. You will see the best results in the spring and summer months when the hours between sunrise and sunset are the longest, and in the middle of the day when the sun is directly overhead. Sunlight in the early morning and late afternoon on a nice day (even though it’s bright) may not be strong enough to fully power the pump because the sun is at a low angle. Since you can’t tilt the solar panel because it’s integrated into the fountain it will be less efficient at this time. Also, sunlight throughout the entire day during the late autumn and winter may not be strong enough to fully power the pump.
The panel does not need time to charge before it works and it does not have a built-in battery pack so it will not store any energy. It operates in direct sunlight only.
SOLAR PANEL (for crystalline panel #SB1W1S made in China)
The glass on the solar panel needs to be cleaned regularly with a glass cleaner to prevent it from developing any algae, dirt or scale build up that would potentially filter or block the sunlight that the solar panel needs to be able to absorb to power the pump. The surface of the glass is textured so even after it’s clean it won’t feel smooth. Make sure that the solar panel has no cracks in the glass. Look through the glass and check for any bubbles or air pockets inside the panel under the glass. If there’s a blue tint to some of the lines of solar cells that is normal. If the panel has any cracks or internal water damage then it needs to be replaced. Look at the underside of the solar panel where the wire is connected to it. Gently flex it back and forth and make sure that there are no breaks in the wire and it has not come away from the panel. If you can see a white or yellow wire exposed, a crack in the glass, or bubbles under the glass then you need to order a replacement. If the panel is clean and doesn’t have any cracks or spots then it should be functional.
CONNECTION (for panel made in China)
Unplug the wire that connects the solar panel to the pump by pulling them apart. Check for any green or white build-up or corrosion on & in the silver plugs. This would be a sign that water got into the connection because it was not water tight. If there is any build-up in the plugs they will need to be cleaned and dried off before re-connecting them. If there is a lot of build up or rust on the silver plugs then the solar panel or pump or both might need to be replaced. Inspect the red rubber o-ring on the solar panel plug. If the o-ring is cracked or deteriorated then it needs to be replaced. If you are missing the o-ring then you will have an empty groove around the plug and you need to order a replacement. If the o-ring is ok then reconnect the plugs again. Be sure to twist them as you push them together until the entire o-ring on the solar panel plug is covered all the way around and inside the sleeve of the pump plug to ensure a water-tight connection. If you look at the plugs when it’s flat on a table you should not be able to see the o-ring.
PUMP COVER WITH FILTER (for pump made in China)
Hold the pump so you can read the black label on the side. The left half of the pump has slits all around it. This end of the pump is the pump cover and it has a spongy filter inside of it. You can pull this end straight off. Do not try to twist it off. Once it’s off, remove the filter from the cover. Rinse the filter out and clean the slits on the cover. Rinse the filter regularly so that it does not become dirty enough to restrict the water flow. If you are missing the pump cover then you need to order replacement parts.
IMPELLER COVER (for pump made in China)
Underneath the pump cover is a piece with 3 prongs coming out of it, a hole in the middle and a spout at the top. This piece is the impeller cover. Through the hole in the center you can see the white impeller. Turn the cover clockwise from the 12 o’clock position to the 2 o’clock position and when the tabs on the pump body line up with the grooves on the cover it will come off. Do not try to pull the cover off without turning it first or you will break one of the tabs on the pump body off. Clean the inside of the impeller cover to make sure there is no sediment or scale build-up inside that would restrict the impeller from turning properly. If you are missing the impeller cover then you need to order replacement parts.
IMPELLER (for pump made in China)
Underneath the pump cover and the impeller cover is a white magnetic impeller with four fins that spins on a silver metal pin. The pin is fixed and does not turn. Remove the magnetic impeller by pinching one of the fins and pulling it straight off. If the fins on the impeller do not appear to be white then it is not clean. Make sure the impeller is clean and that there is no sediment or scale build-up on it that would restrict it from turning easily. If you are missing the impeller then you need to order replacement parts.
AIR (for Lily with pump made in China)
If the motor begins to run and the impeller spins on its own then re-attach the impeller cover and pump cover. Make sure the tube on the pump is connected to the bottom of the panel. Place the lily back into the water. You may want to submerge the entire lily (including the tube and fountain head set on the top) all the way for a couple seconds to help get any air out and then let it float back to the surface. It may take a few minutes in direct sunlight before all the air is expelled and water begins to spray up through the solar panel. Don’t pour water down the tube to ‘help get the air out’ as this will only make it harder for the pump impeller to spin in the right direction.
OPTIMUM CONDITIONS & ORIENTATION (for standard integrated panels)
The solar panel needs to be placed outside in direct sunlight, not indoors behind a window or screen which will filter the light, and not under artificial lighting (i.e. fluorescent or halogen) which will not make it work. Chose a suitable outdoor location where there are no trees that will filter the sunlight. Even the smallest amount of shading reduces panel’s output significantly.
The weather needs to be clear, not hazy or partly cloudy. Just because it’s hot outside and the panel is hot when you touch it does not mean the fountain should be working. Most people assume that the hotter it is outside the better the fountain will work. This is a common misconception, because even though the amount of energy produced by a solar panel is proportional to the strength of the sunlight it receives (based on season), contrary to what you may expect, the higher the temperature of the solar panel the more its output actually decreases, not increases! Generally, temperatures around 68°F or 20°C (room temp) are ideal. You will see the best results in the spring and summer months when the hours between sunrise and sunset are the longest, and in the middle of the day when the sun is directly overhead. Sunlight in the early morning and late afternoon on a nice day (even though it’s bright) may not be strong enough to fully power the pump because the sun is at a low angle. Since you can’t tilt the solar panel because it’s integrated into the fountain it will be less efficient at this time. Also, sunlight throughout the entire day during the late autumn and winter may not be strong enough to fully power the pump.
The panel does not need time to charge before it works and it does not have a built-in battery pack so it will not store any energy. It operates in direct sunlight only.
SOLAR PANEL (for crystalline panel #SB1W1S made in China)
The glass on the solar panel needs to be cleaned regularly with a glass cleaner to prevent it from developing any algae, dirt or scale build up that would potentially filter or block the sunlight that the solar panel needs to be able to absorb to power the pump. The surface of the glass is textured so even after it’s clean it won’t feel smooth. Make sure that the solar panel has no cracks in the glass. Look through the glass and check for any bubbles or air pockets inside the panel under the glass. If there’s a blue tint to some of the lines of solar cells that is normal. If the panel has any cracks or internal water damage then it needs to be replaced. Look at the underside of the solar panel where the wire is connected to it. Gently flex it back and forth and make sure that there are no breaks in the wire and it has not come away from the panel. If you can see a white or yellow wire exposed, a crack in the glass, or bubbles under the glass then you need to order a replacement. If the panel is clean and doesn’t have any cracks or spots then it should be functional.
CONNECTION (for panel made in China)
Unplug the wire that connects the solar panel to the pump by pulling them apart. Check for any green or white build-up or corrosion on & in the silver plugs. This would be a sign that water got into the connection because it was not water tight. If there is any build-up in the plugs they will need to be cleaned and dried off before re-connecting them. If there is a lot of build up or rust on the silver plugs then the solar panel or pump or both might need to be replaced. Inspect the red rubber o-ring on the solar panel plug. If the o-ring is cracked or deteriorated then it needs to be replaced. If you are missing the o-ring then you will have an empty groove around the plug and you need to order a replacement. If the o-ring is ok then reconnect the plugs again. Be sure to twist them as you push them together until the entire o-ring on the solar panel plug is covered all the way around and inside the sleeve of the pump plug to ensure a water-tight connection. If you look at the plugs when it’s flat on a table you should not be able to see the o-ring.
PUMP COVER WITH FILTER (for pump made in China)
Hold the pump so you can read the black label on the side. The left half of the pump has slits all around it. This end of the pump is the pump cover and it has a spongy filter inside of it. You can pull this end straight off. Do not try to twist it off. Once it’s off, remove the filter from the cover. Rinse the filter out and clean the slits on the cover. Rinse the filter regularly so that it does not become dirty enough to restrict the water flow. If you are missing the pump cover then you need to order replacement parts.
IMPELLER COVER (for pump made in China)
Underneath the pump cover is a piece with 3 prongs coming out of it, a hole in the middle and a spout at the top. This piece is the impeller cover. Through the hole in the center you can see the white impeller. Turn the cover clockwise from the 12 o’clock position to the 2 o’clock position and when the tabs on the pump body line up with the grooves on the cover it will come off. Do not try to pull the cover off without turning it first or you will break one of the tabs on the pump body off. Clean the inside of the impeller cover to make sure there is no sediment or scale build-up inside that would restrict the impeller from turning properly. If you are missing the impeller cover then you need to order replacement parts.
IMPELLER (for pump made in China)
Underneath the pump cover and the impeller cover is a white magnetic impeller with four fins that spins on a silver metal pin. The pin is fixed and does not turn. Remove the magnetic impeller by pinching one of the fins and pulling it straight off. If the fins on the impeller do not appear to be white then it is not clean. Make sure the impeller is clean and that there is no sediment or scale build-up on it that would restrict it from turning easily. If you are missing the impeller then you need to order replacement parts.
AIR (for Lily with pump made in China)
If the motor begins to run and the impeller spins on its own then re-attach the impeller cover and pump cover. Make sure the tube on the pump is connected to the bottom of the panel. Place the lily back into the water. You may want to submerge the entire lily (including the tube and fountain head set on the top) all the way for a couple seconds to help get any air out and then let it float back to the surface. It may take a few minutes in direct sunlight before all the air is expelled and water begins to spray up through the solar panel. Don’t pour water down the tube to ‘help get the air out’ as this will only make it harder for the pump impeller to spin in the right direction.
• Lily - My pump isn’t running at all. What do I do? (T)
Please review the troubleshooting information below:
OPTIMUM CONDITIONS & ORIENTATION (for standard integrated panels)
The solar panel needs to be placed outside in direct sunlight, not indoors behind a window or screen which will filter the light, and not under artificial lighting (i.e. fluorescent or halogen) which will not make it work. Chose a suitable outdoor location where there are no trees that will filter the sunlight. Even the smallest amount of shading reduces panel’s output significantly.
The weather needs to be clear, not hazy or partly cloudy. Just because it’s hot outside and the panel is hot when you touch it does not mean the fountain should be working. Most people assume that the hotter it is outside the better the fountain will work. This is a common misconception, because even though the amount of energy produced by a solar panel is proportional to the strength of the sunlight it receives (based on season), contrary to what you may expect, the higher the temperature of the solar panel the more its output actually decreases, not increases! Generally, temperatures around 68°F or 20°C (room temp) are ideal. You will see the best results in the spring and summer months when the hours between sunrise and sunset are the longest, and in the middle of the day when the sun is directly overhead. Sunlight in the early morning and late afternoon on a nice day (even though it’s bright) may not be strong enough to fully power the pump because the sun is at a low angle. Since you can’t tilt the solar panel because it’s integrated into the fountain it will be less efficient at this time. Also, sunlight throughout the entire day during the late autumn and winter may not be strong enough to fully power the pump.
The panel does not need time to charge before it works and it does not have a built-in battery pack so it will not store any energy. It operates in direct sunlight only.
SOLAR PANEL (for amorphous panel made in Thailand)
The glass on the solar panel needs to be cleaned regularly with a glass cleaner to prevent it from developing any algae, dirt or hard water scale build up that would potentially filter or block the sunlight that the solar panel needs to be able to absorb to power the pump. Once it’s clean the glass should be smooth to the touch, however you may still see some water stains. Make sure that the solar panel has no cracks in the glass. If the panel has any cracks then it needs to be replaced. Hold the panel in the sun, look through the glass, and check for any silver spots or subtle red blotchy areas inside the panel. This would be signs that water has gotten past the seal around the edge and inside the panel. If the panel has this type of discoloration then it needs to be replaced. However, if there’s just a faded area that is an even strip across the whole panel then that is normal and the panel is ok. Look at the underside of the solar panel where the wire is connected to it. Gently flex it back and forth and make sure that there are no breaks in the wire and it has not come away from the panel. If you can see a white or yellow wire exposed then the panel needs to be replaced. If the panel is clean, has no cracks, no discoloration, and no breaks in the wire then it should be functional.
CONNECTION (for panel made in Thailand)
Unplug the wire that connects the solar panel to the pump by pulling them apart. Check for any green or white build-up or corrosion on & in the silver plugs. This would be a sign that water got into the connection because it was not water tight. If there is any build-up in the plugs they will need to be cleaned and dried off before re-connecting them. If there is a lot of build up or rust on the silver plugs then the solar panel or pump or both might need to be replaced. Inspect the black or yellow rubber o-ring on the solar panel plug. If the o-ring is cracked or deteriorated then it needs to be replaced. If you are missing the o-ring then you will have an empty groove around the plug and you need to order a replacement. If the o-ring is ok then reconnect the plugs again. Be sure to twist them as you push them together until the entire o-ring on the solar panel plug is covered all the way around and inside the sleeve of the pump plug to ensure a water-tight connection. If you look at the plugs when it’s flat on a table you should not be able to see the o-ring.
TUBE (for Lily)
Make sure the pump tube is securely attached to the tube on the bottom of the solar panel. If your pump swings around or dangles on the wire when you lift up the lily then the tube is not connected. The pump will not be able to push the water up through the panel if the tube is not connected.
PUMP COVER (for pump made in Thailand)
Hold the pump so you can read the white label. The top of the pump where the wire comes out is sealed. Do not attempt to open the top of the pump. There are 4 vertical bumps around the bottom of the pump that are shaped like arrows that point downward. The line that goes through all the arrows is where it separates. It is not sealed and is removable. This end of the pump is called the pump cover. It’s shaped like a '6' or ‘9’ and may have a spongy filter attached to it. You can pull/pop this end straight off. Do not try to twist it off and do not pull by the filter otherwise you will rip it off. If you have trouble removing the pump cover, try prying it off using your fingernail, a butter knife, or flat-head screwdriver on the triangle of the second arrow from the right which is below the middle of the white label. Once removed, clean the inside of the cover. Rinse the filter regularly so that it does not become dirty enough to restrict the water flow. If you are missing the pump cover then you need to order a replacement.
IMPELLER (for pump made in Thailand)
Underneath the pump cover is a circular magnetic impeller with two fins that spins on a silver metal pin. The pin is fixed and does not turn. Remove the magnetic impeller with pliers by pulling it straight off by one of the fins or get under it with something flat and lift it off. Make sure the pump housing and impeller are clean and that there is no sediment or scale build-up inside that would restrict it from turning easily. If you are missing the impeller then you need to order a replacement.
MANUAL START (universal)
If the impeller does not turn on its own, try manually starting the pump. To do so, take the pump and solar panel outside and make sure the connection is correct. The pump does not have to be in water for a manual start. Hold it up in the air and while facing the solar panel toward direct sunlight, turn the impeller clock-wise with your finger. Please note that attempting to try a manual start outside when it’s cloudy or indoors by holding the solar panel under a light in your house will not work. You must be outside in direct sunlight, not behind a window or screen.
AIR (for Lily with pump made in Thailand)
If the motor runs and the impeller spins on its own then re-attach the pump cover making sure that its snapped on securely all the way around. Place the lily back into the water. You may want to submerge the entire lily (including the tube and fountain head set on the top) all the way for a couple seconds to help get any air out and then let it float back to the surface. It may take a few minutes in direct sunlight before all the air is expelled and water begins to spray up through the solar panel. Don’t pour water down the tube to ‘help get the air out’ as this will only make it harder for the pump impeller to spin in the right direction.
OPTIMUM CONDITIONS & ORIENTATION (for standard integrated panels)
The solar panel needs to be placed outside in direct sunlight, not indoors behind a window or screen which will filter the light, and not under artificial lighting (i.e. fluorescent or halogen) which will not make it work. Chose a suitable outdoor location where there are no trees that will filter the sunlight. Even the smallest amount of shading reduces panel’s output significantly.
The weather needs to be clear, not hazy or partly cloudy. Just because it’s hot outside and the panel is hot when you touch it does not mean the fountain should be working. Most people assume that the hotter it is outside the better the fountain will work. This is a common misconception, because even though the amount of energy produced by a solar panel is proportional to the strength of the sunlight it receives (based on season), contrary to what you may expect, the higher the temperature of the solar panel the more its output actually decreases, not increases! Generally, temperatures around 68°F or 20°C (room temp) are ideal. You will see the best results in the spring and summer months when the hours between sunrise and sunset are the longest, and in the middle of the day when the sun is directly overhead. Sunlight in the early morning and late afternoon on a nice day (even though it’s bright) may not be strong enough to fully power the pump because the sun is at a low angle. Since you can’t tilt the solar panel because it’s integrated into the fountain it will be less efficient at this time. Also, sunlight throughout the entire day during the late autumn and winter may not be strong enough to fully power the pump.
The panel does not need time to charge before it works and it does not have a built-in battery pack so it will not store any energy. It operates in direct sunlight only.
SOLAR PANEL (for amorphous panel made in Thailand)
The glass on the solar panel needs to be cleaned regularly with a glass cleaner to prevent it from developing any algae, dirt or hard water scale build up that would potentially filter or block the sunlight that the solar panel needs to be able to absorb to power the pump. Once it’s clean the glass should be smooth to the touch, however you may still see some water stains. Make sure that the solar panel has no cracks in the glass. If the panel has any cracks then it needs to be replaced. Hold the panel in the sun, look through the glass, and check for any silver spots or subtle red blotchy areas inside the panel. This would be signs that water has gotten past the seal around the edge and inside the panel. If the panel has this type of discoloration then it needs to be replaced. However, if there’s just a faded area that is an even strip across the whole panel then that is normal and the panel is ok. Look at the underside of the solar panel where the wire is connected to it. Gently flex it back and forth and make sure that there are no breaks in the wire and it has not come away from the panel. If you can see a white or yellow wire exposed then the panel needs to be replaced. If the panel is clean, has no cracks, no discoloration, and no breaks in the wire then it should be functional.
CONNECTION (for panel made in Thailand)
Unplug the wire that connects the solar panel to the pump by pulling them apart. Check for any green or white build-up or corrosion on & in the silver plugs. This would be a sign that water got into the connection because it was not water tight. If there is any build-up in the plugs they will need to be cleaned and dried off before re-connecting them. If there is a lot of build up or rust on the silver plugs then the solar panel or pump or both might need to be replaced. Inspect the black or yellow rubber o-ring on the solar panel plug. If the o-ring is cracked or deteriorated then it needs to be replaced. If you are missing the o-ring then you will have an empty groove around the plug and you need to order a replacement. If the o-ring is ok then reconnect the plugs again. Be sure to twist them as you push them together until the entire o-ring on the solar panel plug is covered all the way around and inside the sleeve of the pump plug to ensure a water-tight connection. If you look at the plugs when it’s flat on a table you should not be able to see the o-ring.
TUBE (for Lily)
Make sure the pump tube is securely attached to the tube on the bottom of the solar panel. If your pump swings around or dangles on the wire when you lift up the lily then the tube is not connected. The pump will not be able to push the water up through the panel if the tube is not connected.
PUMP COVER (for pump made in Thailand)
Hold the pump so you can read the white label. The top of the pump where the wire comes out is sealed. Do not attempt to open the top of the pump. There are 4 vertical bumps around the bottom of the pump that are shaped like arrows that point downward. The line that goes through all the arrows is where it separates. It is not sealed and is removable. This end of the pump is called the pump cover. It’s shaped like a '6' or ‘9’ and may have a spongy filter attached to it. You can pull/pop this end straight off. Do not try to twist it off and do not pull by the filter otherwise you will rip it off. If you have trouble removing the pump cover, try prying it off using your fingernail, a butter knife, or flat-head screwdriver on the triangle of the second arrow from the right which is below the middle of the white label. Once removed, clean the inside of the cover. Rinse the filter regularly so that it does not become dirty enough to restrict the water flow. If you are missing the pump cover then you need to order a replacement.
IMPELLER (for pump made in Thailand)
Underneath the pump cover is a circular magnetic impeller with two fins that spins on a silver metal pin. The pin is fixed and does not turn. Remove the magnetic impeller with pliers by pulling it straight off by one of the fins or get under it with something flat and lift it off. Make sure the pump housing and impeller are clean and that there is no sediment or scale build-up inside that would restrict it from turning easily. If you are missing the impeller then you need to order a replacement.
MANUAL START (universal)
If the impeller does not turn on its own, try manually starting the pump. To do so, take the pump and solar panel outside and make sure the connection is correct. The pump does not have to be in water for a manual start. Hold it up in the air and while facing the solar panel toward direct sunlight, turn the impeller clock-wise with your finger. Please note that attempting to try a manual start outside when it’s cloudy or indoors by holding the solar panel under a light in your house will not work. You must be outside in direct sunlight, not behind a window or screen.
AIR (for Lily with pump made in Thailand)
If the motor runs and the impeller spins on its own then re-attach the pump cover making sure that its snapped on securely all the way around. Place the lily back into the water. You may want to submerge the entire lily (including the tube and fountain head set on the top) all the way for a couple seconds to help get any air out and then let it float back to the surface. It may take a few minutes in direct sunlight before all the air is expelled and water begins to spray up through the solar panel. Don’t pour water down the tube to ‘help get the air out’ as this will only make it harder for the pump impeller to spin in the right direction.
• Lily - My pump isn’t running at all. What do I do? (C)
Please review the troubleshooting information below:
OPTIMUM CONDITIONS & ORIENTATION (for standard integrated panels)
The solar panel needs to be placed outside in direct sunlight, not indoors behind a window or screen which will filter the light, and not under artificial lighting (i.e. fluorescent or halogen) which will not make it work. Chose a suitable outdoor location where there are no trees that will filter the sunlight. Even the smallest amount of shading reduces panel’s output significantly.
The weather needs to be clear, not hazy or partly cloudy. Just because it’s hot outside and the panel is hot when you touch it does not mean the fountain should be working. Most people assume that the hotter it is outside the better the fountain will work. This is a common misconception, because even though the amount of energy produced by a solar panel is proportional to the strength of the sunlight it receives (based on season), contrary to what you may expect, the higher the temperature of the solar panel the more its output actually decreases, not increases! Generally, temperatures around 68°F or 20°C (room temp) are ideal. You will see the best results in the spring and summer months when the hours between sunrise and sunset are the longest, and in the middle of the day when the sun is directly overhead. Sunlight in the early morning and late afternoon on a nice day (even though it’s bright) may not be strong enough to fully power the pump because the sun is at a low angle. Since you can’t tilt the solar panel because it’s integrated into the fountain it will be less efficient at this time. Also, sunlight throughout the entire day during the late autumn and winter may not be strong enough to fully power the pump.
The panel does not need time to charge before it works and it does not have a built-in battery pack so it will not store any energy. It operates in direct sunlight only.
SOLAR PANEL (for crystalline panel made in China)
The glass on the solar panel needs to be cleaned regularly with a glass cleaner to prevent it from developing any algae, dirt or scale build up that would potentially filter or block the sunlight that the solar panel needs to be able to absorb to power the pump. The surface of the glass is textured so even after it’s clean it won’t feel smooth. Make sure that the solar panel has no cracks in the glass. Look through the glass and check for any bubbles or air pockets inside the panel under the glass. If there’s a blue tint to some of the lines of solar cells that is normal. If the panel has any cracks or internal water damage then it needs to be replaced. Look at the underside of the solar panel where the wire is connected to it. Gently flex it back and forth and make sure that there are no breaks in the wire and it has not come away from the panel. If you can see a white or yellow wire exposed, a crack in the glass, or bubbles under the glass then you need to order a replacement. If the panel is clean and doesn’t have any cracks or spots then it should be functional.
CONNECTION (for panel made in China)
Unplug the wire that connects the solar panel to the pump by pulling them apart. Check for any green or white build-up or corrosion on & in the silver plugs. This would be a sign that water got into the connection because it was not water tight. If there is any build-up in the plugs they will need to be cleaned and dried off before re-connecting them. If there is a lot of build up or rust on the silver plugs then the solar panel or pump or both might need to be replaced. Inspect the red rubber o-ring on the solar panel plug. If the o-ring is cracked or deteriorated then it needs to be replaced. If you are missing the o-ring then you will have an empty groove around the plug and you need to order a replacement. If the o-ring is ok then reconnect the plugs again. Be sure to twist them as you push them together until the entire o-ring on the solar panel plug is covered all the way around and inside the sleeve of the pump plug to ensure a water-tight connection. If you look at the plugs when it’s flat on a table you should not be able to see the o-ring.
TUBE (for Lily)
Make sure the pump tube is securely attached to the tube on the bottom of the solar panel. If your pump swings around or dangles on the wire when you lift up the lily then the tube is not connected. The pump will not be able to push the water up through the panel if the tube is not connected.
PUMP COVER WITH FILTER (for pump made in China)
Hold the pump so you can read the black label on the side. The left half of the pump has slits all around it. This end of the pump is the pump cover and it has a spongy filter inside of it. You can pull this end straight off. Do not try to twist it off. Once it’s off, remove the filter from the cover. Rinse the filter out and clean the slits on the cover. Rinse the filter regularly so that it does not become dirty enough to restrict the water flow. If you are missing the pump cover then you need to order replacement parts.
IMPELLER COVER (for pump made in China)
Underneath the pump cover is a piece with 3 prongs coming out of it, a hole in the middle and a spout at the top. This piece is the impeller cover. Through the hole in the center you can see the white impeller. Turn the cover clockwise from the 12 o’clock position to the 2 o’clock position and when the tabs on the pump body line up with the grooves on the cover it will come off. Do not try to pull the cover off without turning it first or you will break one of the tabs on the pump body off. Clean the inside of the impeller cover to make sure there is no sediment or scale build-up inside that would restrict the impeller from turning properly. If you are missing the impeller cover then you need to order replacement parts.
IMPELLER (for pump made in China)
Underneath the pump cover and the impeller cover is a white magnetic impeller with four fins that spins on a silver metal pin. The pin is fixed and does not turn. Remove the magnetic impeller by pinching one of the fins and pulling it straight off. If the fins on the impeller do not appear to be white then it is not clean. Make sure the impeller is clean and that there is no sediment or scale build-up on it that would restrict it from turning easily. If you are missing the impeller then you need to order replacement parts.
MANUAL START (universal)
If the impeller does not turn on its own, try manually starting the pump. To do so, take the pump and solar panel outside and make sure the connection is correct. The pump does not have to be in water for a manual start. Hold it up in the air and while facing the solar panel toward direct sunlight, turn the impeller clock-wise with your finger. Please note that attempting to try a manual start outside when it’s cloudy or indoors by holding the solar panel under a light in your house will not work. You must be outside in direct sunlight, not behind a window or screen.
AIR (for Lily with pump made in China)
If the motor begins to run and the impeller spins on its own then re-attach the impeller cover and pump cover. Make sure the tube on the pump is connected to the bottom of the panel. Place the lily back into the water. You may want to submerge the entire lily (including the tube and fountain head set on the top) all the way for a couple seconds to help get any air out and then let it float back to the surface. It may take a few minutes in direct sunlight before all the air is expelled and water begins to spray up through the solar panel. Don’t pour water down the tube to ‘help get the air out’ as this will only make it harder for the pump impeller to spin in the right direction.
OPTIMUM CONDITIONS & ORIENTATION (for standard integrated panels)
The solar panel needs to be placed outside in direct sunlight, not indoors behind a window or screen which will filter the light, and not under artificial lighting (i.e. fluorescent or halogen) which will not make it work. Chose a suitable outdoor location where there are no trees that will filter the sunlight. Even the smallest amount of shading reduces panel’s output significantly.
The weather needs to be clear, not hazy or partly cloudy. Just because it’s hot outside and the panel is hot when you touch it does not mean the fountain should be working. Most people assume that the hotter it is outside the better the fountain will work. This is a common misconception, because even though the amount of energy produced by a solar panel is proportional to the strength of the sunlight it receives (based on season), contrary to what you may expect, the higher the temperature of the solar panel the more its output actually decreases, not increases! Generally, temperatures around 68°F or 20°C (room temp) are ideal. You will see the best results in the spring and summer months when the hours between sunrise and sunset are the longest, and in the middle of the day when the sun is directly overhead. Sunlight in the early morning and late afternoon on a nice day (even though it’s bright) may not be strong enough to fully power the pump because the sun is at a low angle. Since you can’t tilt the solar panel because it’s integrated into the fountain it will be less efficient at this time. Also, sunlight throughout the entire day during the late autumn and winter may not be strong enough to fully power the pump.
The panel does not need time to charge before it works and it does not have a built-in battery pack so it will not store any energy. It operates in direct sunlight only.
SOLAR PANEL (for crystalline panel made in China)
The glass on the solar panel needs to be cleaned regularly with a glass cleaner to prevent it from developing any algae, dirt or scale build up that would potentially filter or block the sunlight that the solar panel needs to be able to absorb to power the pump. The surface of the glass is textured so even after it’s clean it won’t feel smooth. Make sure that the solar panel has no cracks in the glass. Look through the glass and check for any bubbles or air pockets inside the panel under the glass. If there’s a blue tint to some of the lines of solar cells that is normal. If the panel has any cracks or internal water damage then it needs to be replaced. Look at the underside of the solar panel where the wire is connected to it. Gently flex it back and forth and make sure that there are no breaks in the wire and it has not come away from the panel. If you can see a white or yellow wire exposed, a crack in the glass, or bubbles under the glass then you need to order a replacement. If the panel is clean and doesn’t have any cracks or spots then it should be functional.
CONNECTION (for panel made in China)
Unplug the wire that connects the solar panel to the pump by pulling them apart. Check for any green or white build-up or corrosion on & in the silver plugs. This would be a sign that water got into the connection because it was not water tight. If there is any build-up in the plugs they will need to be cleaned and dried off before re-connecting them. If there is a lot of build up or rust on the silver plugs then the solar panel or pump or both might need to be replaced. Inspect the red rubber o-ring on the solar panel plug. If the o-ring is cracked or deteriorated then it needs to be replaced. If you are missing the o-ring then you will have an empty groove around the plug and you need to order a replacement. If the o-ring is ok then reconnect the plugs again. Be sure to twist them as you push them together until the entire o-ring on the solar panel plug is covered all the way around and inside the sleeve of the pump plug to ensure a water-tight connection. If you look at the plugs when it’s flat on a table you should not be able to see the o-ring.
TUBE (for Lily)
Make sure the pump tube is securely attached to the tube on the bottom of the solar panel. If your pump swings around or dangles on the wire when you lift up the lily then the tube is not connected. The pump will not be able to push the water up through the panel if the tube is not connected.
PUMP COVER WITH FILTER (for pump made in China)
Hold the pump so you can read the black label on the side. The left half of the pump has slits all around it. This end of the pump is the pump cover and it has a spongy filter inside of it. You can pull this end straight off. Do not try to twist it off. Once it’s off, remove the filter from the cover. Rinse the filter out and clean the slits on the cover. Rinse the filter regularly so that it does not become dirty enough to restrict the water flow. If you are missing the pump cover then you need to order replacement parts.
IMPELLER COVER (for pump made in China)
Underneath the pump cover is a piece with 3 prongs coming out of it, a hole in the middle and a spout at the top. This piece is the impeller cover. Through the hole in the center you can see the white impeller. Turn the cover clockwise from the 12 o’clock position to the 2 o’clock position and when the tabs on the pump body line up with the grooves on the cover it will come off. Do not try to pull the cover off without turning it first or you will break one of the tabs on the pump body off. Clean the inside of the impeller cover to make sure there is no sediment or scale build-up inside that would restrict the impeller from turning properly. If you are missing the impeller cover then you need to order replacement parts.
IMPELLER (for pump made in China)
Underneath the pump cover and the impeller cover is a white magnetic impeller with four fins that spins on a silver metal pin. The pin is fixed and does not turn. Remove the magnetic impeller by pinching one of the fins and pulling it straight off. If the fins on the impeller do not appear to be white then it is not clean. Make sure the impeller is clean and that there is no sediment or scale build-up on it that would restrict it from turning easily. If you are missing the impeller then you need to order replacement parts.
MANUAL START (universal)
If the impeller does not turn on its own, try manually starting the pump. To do so, take the pump and solar panel outside and make sure the connection is correct. The pump does not have to be in water for a manual start. Hold it up in the air and while facing the solar panel toward direct sunlight, turn the impeller clock-wise with your finger. Please note that attempting to try a manual start outside when it’s cloudy or indoors by holding the solar panel under a light in your house will not work. You must be outside in direct sunlight, not behind a window or screen.
AIR (for Lily with pump made in China)
If the motor begins to run and the impeller spins on its own then re-attach the impeller cover and pump cover. Make sure the tube on the pump is connected to the bottom of the panel. Place the lily back into the water. You may want to submerge the entire lily (including the tube and fountain head set on the top) all the way for a couple seconds to help get any air out and then let it float back to the surface. It may take a few minutes in direct sunlight before all the air is expelled and water begins to spray up through the solar panel. Don’t pour water down the tube to ‘help get the air out’ as this will only make it harder for the pump impeller to spin in the right direction.
Solar Sunjet 150 and 150 Plus
• SunJet 150 - How do I get my pump apart to clean it? (T)
This applies to the following products:
Lily, SunJet 150, SunJet 150 Plus, SunJet 290-M, SunJet 290-B, SunJet 380
Please review the troubleshooting information below:
FILTER HOUSING / CASE / SHELL (Part # ‘FHousing’ for pumps made in Thailand)
Some of our pumps may have a filter housing case around the entire pump. It’s teardrop shaped with rows of small holes all the way around it. It has a ‘Smart Solar’ logo sticker on the front with ‘ABS’ below it and on the back of it, and may have 3 suction cups on the bottom. This housing needs to be removed in order to access the pump. To open the housing, press down on the ‘PRESS’ arrow on the top of the housing and separate it into 2 halves. If you do not have the filter housing case around your pump you do not need to order a replacement, but it’s available an optional accessory.
PUMP COVER (Part # ‘pcover’, for pumps made in Thailand)
Hold the pump so you can read the white label. The top of the pump where the wire comes out is sealed. Do not attempt to open the top of the pump. There are 4 vertical bumps around the bottom of the pump that are shaped like arrows that point downward. The line that goes through all the arrows is where it separates. It is not sealed and is removable. This end of the pump is called the pump cover. It’s shaped like a '6' or ‘9’ and may have a spongy filter attached to it. You can pull/pop this end straight off. Do not try to twist it off and do not pull by the filter otherwise you will rip it off. If you have trouble removing the pump cover, try prying it off using your fingernail, a butter knife, or flat-head screwdriver on the triangle of the second arrow from the right which is below the middle of the white label. Once removed, clean the inside of the cover. Rinse the filter regularly so that it does not become dirty enough to restrict the water flow. If you can touch the impeller already then you are missing the pump cover and need to order a replacement.
IMPELLER (Part # ‘impeller’, for pumps made in Thailand)
Underneath the pump cover is a circular magnetic impeller with two fins that spins on a silver metal pin. The pin is fixed and does not turn. Remove the magnetic impeller with pliers by pinching one of the fins and pulling it straight off or get under it with something flat and lift it off. Make sure the pump housing and impeller are clean and that there is no sediment or scale build-up inside that would restrict it from turning easily. If you are missing the impeller then you need to order a replacement.
PUMP MOTOR (Part # ‘20020p01’, ‘20500p01’, etc, for pumps made in Thailand)
Once you have removed the pump cover and impeller you will be able to see the whole impeller axle. The pin is fixed and does not turn. Clean down around the pin with a Q-tip. Make sure the pump housing is clean and that there is no sediment or scale build-up inside that would restrict the impeller from turn easily.
Lily, SunJet 150, SunJet 150 Plus, SunJet 290-M, SunJet 290-B, SunJet 380
Please review the troubleshooting information below:
FILTER HOUSING / CASE / SHELL (Part # ‘FHousing’ for pumps made in Thailand)
Some of our pumps may have a filter housing case around the entire pump. It’s teardrop shaped with rows of small holes all the way around it. It has a ‘Smart Solar’ logo sticker on the front with ‘ABS’ below it and on the back of it, and may have 3 suction cups on the bottom. This housing needs to be removed in order to access the pump. To open the housing, press down on the ‘PRESS’ arrow on the top of the housing and separate it into 2 halves. If you do not have the filter housing case around your pump you do not need to order a replacement, but it’s available an optional accessory.
PUMP COVER (Part # ‘pcover’, for pumps made in Thailand)
Hold the pump so you can read the white label. The top of the pump where the wire comes out is sealed. Do not attempt to open the top of the pump. There are 4 vertical bumps around the bottom of the pump that are shaped like arrows that point downward. The line that goes through all the arrows is where it separates. It is not sealed and is removable. This end of the pump is called the pump cover. It’s shaped like a '6' or ‘9’ and may have a spongy filter attached to it. You can pull/pop this end straight off. Do not try to twist it off and do not pull by the filter otherwise you will rip it off. If you have trouble removing the pump cover, try prying it off using your fingernail, a butter knife, or flat-head screwdriver on the triangle of the second arrow from the right which is below the middle of the white label. Once removed, clean the inside of the cover. Rinse the filter regularly so that it does not become dirty enough to restrict the water flow. If you can touch the impeller already then you are missing the pump cover and need to order a replacement.
IMPELLER (Part # ‘impeller’, for pumps made in Thailand)
Underneath the pump cover is a circular magnetic impeller with two fins that spins on a silver metal pin. The pin is fixed and does not turn. Remove the magnetic impeller with pliers by pinching one of the fins and pulling it straight off or get under it with something flat and lift it off. Make sure the pump housing and impeller are clean and that there is no sediment or scale build-up inside that would restrict it from turning easily. If you are missing the impeller then you need to order a replacement.
PUMP MOTOR (Part # ‘20020p01’, ‘20500p01’, etc, for pumps made in Thailand)
Once you have removed the pump cover and impeller you will be able to see the whole impeller axle. The pin is fixed and does not turn. Clean down around the pin with a Q-tip. Make sure the pump housing is clean and that there is no sediment or scale build-up inside that would restrict the impeller from turn easily.
• SunJet 150 - How do I get my pump apart to clean it? (C)
This applies to the following products:
Lily, SunJet 150, SunJet 150 Plus, SunJet 290-M, SunJet 290-B, SunJet 380
PUMP COVER WITH FILTER (Part # ‘160xfk’, for pumps made in China)
Hold the pump so you can read the black label on the side. The left half of the pump has slits all around it. This end of the pump is the pump cover and it has a spongy filter inside of it. You can pull this end straight off. Do not try to twist it off. Once it’s off, remove the filter from the cover. Rinse the filter out and clean the slits on the cover. Rinse the filter regularly so that it does not become dirty enough to restrict the water flow. If you are missing the pump cover then you need to order a replacement.
IMPELLER COVER (Part # n/a, for pumps made in China)
Underneath the pump cover is a piece with 3 prongs coming out of it, a hole in the middle and a spout at the top. This piece is the impeller cover. Through the hole in the center you can see the white impeller. Turn the cover clockwise from the 12 o’clock position to the 2 o’clock position and when the tabs on the pump body line up with the grooves on the cover it will come off. Do not try to pull the cover off without turning it first or you will break one of the tabs on the pump body off. Clean the inside of the impeller cover to make sure there is no sediment or scale build-up inside that would restrict the impeller from turning properly. If you are missing the impeller cover then you need to order a replacement.
IMPELLER (Part # n/a, for pumps made in China)
Underneath the pump cover and the impeller cover is a white magnetic impeller with four fins that spins on a silver metal pin. The pin is fixed and does not turn. Remove the magnetic impeller by pinching one of the fins and pulling it straight off. If the fins on the impeller do not appear to be white then it is not clean. Make sure the impeller is clean and that there is no sediment or scale build-up on it that would restrict it from turning easily. If you are missing the impeller then you need to order a replacement.
PUMP MOTOR (Part # ‘SP-160X01’, ‘SP-160X3S’, for pumps made in China)
Once you have removed the pump cover, impeller cover, and impeller you will be able to see down into the impeller shaft and see the whole silver metal pin. The pin is fixed and does not turn. Clean down around the pin and the bottom of the shaft with a Q-tip. Make sure the pump housing is clean and that there is no sediment or scale build-up inside that would restrict the impeller from turn easily.
Lily, SunJet 150, SunJet 150 Plus, SunJet 290-M, SunJet 290-B, SunJet 380
PUMP COVER WITH FILTER (Part # ‘160xfk’, for pumps made in China)
Hold the pump so you can read the black label on the side. The left half of the pump has slits all around it. This end of the pump is the pump cover and it has a spongy filter inside of it. You can pull this end straight off. Do not try to twist it off. Once it’s off, remove the filter from the cover. Rinse the filter out and clean the slits on the cover. Rinse the filter regularly so that it does not become dirty enough to restrict the water flow. If you are missing the pump cover then you need to order a replacement.
IMPELLER COVER (Part # n/a, for pumps made in China)
Underneath the pump cover is a piece with 3 prongs coming out of it, a hole in the middle and a spout at the top. This piece is the impeller cover. Through the hole in the center you can see the white impeller. Turn the cover clockwise from the 12 o’clock position to the 2 o’clock position and when the tabs on the pump body line up with the grooves on the cover it will come off. Do not try to pull the cover off without turning it first or you will break one of the tabs on the pump body off. Clean the inside of the impeller cover to make sure there is no sediment or scale build-up inside that would restrict the impeller from turning properly. If you are missing the impeller cover then you need to order a replacement.
IMPELLER (Part # n/a, for pumps made in China)
Underneath the pump cover and the impeller cover is a white magnetic impeller with four fins that spins on a silver metal pin. The pin is fixed and does not turn. Remove the magnetic impeller by pinching one of the fins and pulling it straight off. If the fins on the impeller do not appear to be white then it is not clean. Make sure the impeller is clean and that there is no sediment or scale build-up on it that would restrict it from turning easily. If you are missing the impeller then you need to order a replacement.
PUMP MOTOR (Part # ‘SP-160X01’, ‘SP-160X3S’, for pumps made in China)
Once you have removed the pump cover, impeller cover, and impeller you will be able to see down into the impeller shaft and see the whole silver metal pin. The pin is fixed and does not turn. Clean down around the pin and the bottom of the shaft with a Q-tip. Make sure the pump housing is clean and that there is no sediment or scale build-up inside that would restrict the impeller from turn easily.
• SunJet 150 - My pump runs very loudly and doesn’t pump. What do I do? (T)
This applies to the following products:
Lily, SunJet 150, SunJet 150 Plus, SunJet 290-M, SunJet 290-B, SunJet 380
SUBMERGED (universal)
Make sure that the pump is fully submerged in the water. If the pump is running out of the water is can make a constant loud noise as it runs dry. This will eventually cause the pump to burn out.
PUMP COVER (Part # ‘pcover’, for pumps made in Thailand)
Hold the pump so you can read the white label. There are 4 vertical bumps around the bottom of the pump that are shaped like arrows that point downward. The line that goes through all the arrows is where it separates. This end of the pump is the pump cover. It’s shaped like a '6' or ‘9’ and may have a spongy filter attached to it. You can pull/pop this end straight off. Do not try to twist it off and don’t pull by the filter or you will rip it off. If you have trouble removing the pump cover, try prying it off using your fingernail, a butter knife, or flat-head screwdriver on the triangle of the second arrow from the right which is below the middle of the white label. Once removed, clean the inside of the cover. Rinse the filter regularly so that it does not become dirty enough to restrict the water flow. If you are missing the pump cover then you need to order replacement parts.
IMPELLER (Part # ‘impeller’, for pumps made in Thailand)
Underneath the pump cover is a circular magnetic impeller with two fins that spins on a silver metal pin. The pin is fixed and does not turn. Remove the magnetic impeller with pliers by pulling it straight off by one of the fins or get under it with something flat and lift it off. Make sure the pump housing and impeller are clean and that there is no sediment or scale build-up inside that would restrict it from turning easily. If you are missing the impeller then you need to order replacement parts.
MOTOR (for pump made in Thailand)
Leave the pump cover and impeller off of the pump and allow the pump to run. The motor should make a smooth and quiet humming noise. If so, then the motor is functioning properly. If the motor makes a loud noise without the pump cover and impeller attached then there is a problem internally with the motor and you will need to order a replacement pump. Disconnect or cover the solar panel so that the motor stops running and re-attach the impeller and pump cover, making sure that the 2 fins on the impeller face you and the cover is snapped on securely all the way around. If the motor runs normally for a few seconds and then stops pumping and runs loudly, this is referred to as de-coupling. If you are experiencing de-coupling please contact us for a replacement pump.
DE-COUPLING (for pump made in Thailand)
In order to improve the performance of the pump in low light or partly cloudy conditions, upgrades were made in 2006 to the solar panels that were made in Thailand. The pump needs a certain amount of energy before it can start working. The solar panel builds up energy for approximately 5-10 seconds in a capacitor and then gives the pump a boost in order to get it running, instead of having to remove the pump cover and turn the impeller to manually with your finger to start it. In rare conditions where the sun is very strong, the internal motor magnet will spin too quickly for the impeller. If the magnetic impeller cannot spin as fast as the motor magnet it will not be aligned and end up pushing away from the motor and make contact with the pump cover. This causes the pump stop pumping, but it continues to run and starts making a loud noise because the impeller is hitting the cover. We refer to this as ‘de-coupling’. The motor needs to be stopped before the impeller will reseat itself in the proper position.
Please note that de-coupling may only occur with pumps that were made in Thailand when used in certain areas of the country that receive very strong sunlight during the peak summer days. It will not occur during the winter, spring or autumn in the same regions.
Lily, SunJet 150, SunJet 150 Plus, SunJet 290-M, SunJet 290-B, SunJet 380
SUBMERGED (universal)
Make sure that the pump is fully submerged in the water. If the pump is running out of the water is can make a constant loud noise as it runs dry. This will eventually cause the pump to burn out.
PUMP COVER (Part # ‘pcover’, for pumps made in Thailand)
Hold the pump so you can read the white label. There are 4 vertical bumps around the bottom of the pump that are shaped like arrows that point downward. The line that goes through all the arrows is where it separates. This end of the pump is the pump cover. It’s shaped like a '6' or ‘9’ and may have a spongy filter attached to it. You can pull/pop this end straight off. Do not try to twist it off and don’t pull by the filter or you will rip it off. If you have trouble removing the pump cover, try prying it off using your fingernail, a butter knife, or flat-head screwdriver on the triangle of the second arrow from the right which is below the middle of the white label. Once removed, clean the inside of the cover. Rinse the filter regularly so that it does not become dirty enough to restrict the water flow. If you are missing the pump cover then you need to order replacement parts.
IMPELLER (Part # ‘impeller’, for pumps made in Thailand)
Underneath the pump cover is a circular magnetic impeller with two fins that spins on a silver metal pin. The pin is fixed and does not turn. Remove the magnetic impeller with pliers by pulling it straight off by one of the fins or get under it with something flat and lift it off. Make sure the pump housing and impeller are clean and that there is no sediment or scale build-up inside that would restrict it from turning easily. If you are missing the impeller then you need to order replacement parts.
MOTOR (for pump made in Thailand)
Leave the pump cover and impeller off of the pump and allow the pump to run. The motor should make a smooth and quiet humming noise. If so, then the motor is functioning properly. If the motor makes a loud noise without the pump cover and impeller attached then there is a problem internally with the motor and you will need to order a replacement pump. Disconnect or cover the solar panel so that the motor stops running and re-attach the impeller and pump cover, making sure that the 2 fins on the impeller face you and the cover is snapped on securely all the way around. If the motor runs normally for a few seconds and then stops pumping and runs loudly, this is referred to as de-coupling. If you are experiencing de-coupling please contact us for a replacement pump.
DE-COUPLING (for pump made in Thailand)
In order to improve the performance of the pump in low light or partly cloudy conditions, upgrades were made in 2006 to the solar panels that were made in Thailand. The pump needs a certain amount of energy before it can start working. The solar panel builds up energy for approximately 5-10 seconds in a capacitor and then gives the pump a boost in order to get it running, instead of having to remove the pump cover and turn the impeller to manually with your finger to start it. In rare conditions where the sun is very strong, the internal motor magnet will spin too quickly for the impeller. If the magnetic impeller cannot spin as fast as the motor magnet it will not be aligned and end up pushing away from the motor and make contact with the pump cover. This causes the pump stop pumping, but it continues to run and starts making a loud noise because the impeller is hitting the cover. We refer to this as ‘de-coupling’. The motor needs to be stopped before the impeller will reseat itself in the proper position.
Please note that de-coupling may only occur with pumps that were made in Thailand when used in certain areas of the country that receive very strong sunlight during the peak summer days. It will not occur during the winter, spring or autumn in the same regions.
• SunJet 150 - My pump runs very loudly and doesn’t pump. What do I do? (C)
This applies to the following products:
Lily, SunJet 150, SunJet 150 Plus, SunJet 290-M, SunJet 290-B, SunJet 380
SUBMERGED (universal)
Make sure that the pump is fully submerged in the water. If the pump is running out of the water is can make a constant loud noise as it runs dry. This will eventually cause the pump to burn out.
PUMP COVER WITH FILTER (Part # ‘160xfk’, for pumps made in China)
Hold the pump so you can read the black label on the side. The left half of the pump has slits all around it. This end of the pump is the pump cover and it has a spongy filter inside of it. You can pull this end straight off. Do not try to twist it off. Once it’s off, remove the filter from the cover. Rinse the filter out and clean the slits on the cover. Rinse the filter regularly so that it does not become dirty enough to restrict the water flow. If you are missing the pump cover then you need to order replacement parts.
IMPELLER COVER (Part # ‘n/a’, for pumps made in China)
Underneath the pump cover is a piece with 3 prongs coming out of it, a hole in the middle and a spout at the top. This piece is the impeller cover. Through the hole in the center you can see the white impeller. Turn the cover clockwise from the 12 o’clock position to the 2 o’clock position and when the tabs on the pump body line up with the grooves on the cover it will come off. Do not try to pull the cover off without turning it first or you will break one of the tabs on the pump body off. Clean the inside of the impeller cover to make sure there is no sediment or scale build-up inside that would restrict the impeller from turning properly. If you are missing the impeller cover then you need to order replacement parts.
IMPELLER (Part # ‘n/a’, for pumps made in China)
Underneath the pump cover and the impeller cover is a white magnetic impeller with four fins that spins on a silver metal pin. The pin is fixed and does not turn. Remove the magnetic impeller by pinching one of the fins and pulling it straight off. If the fins on the impeller do not appear to be white then it is not clean. Make sure the impeller is clean and that there is no sediment or scale build-up on it that would restrict it from turning easily. If you are missing the impeller then you need to order replacement parts.
MOTOR (for pumps made in China)
Leave the pump cover and impeller cover and impeller off of the pump. The motor should not make any noise or vibration at all while it’s running. It should appear to do nothing without the impeller. If so, then the motor is functioning properly.
Lily, SunJet 150, SunJet 150 Plus, SunJet 290-M, SunJet 290-B, SunJet 380
SUBMERGED (universal)
Make sure that the pump is fully submerged in the water. If the pump is running out of the water is can make a constant loud noise as it runs dry. This will eventually cause the pump to burn out.
PUMP COVER WITH FILTER (Part # ‘160xfk’, for pumps made in China)
Hold the pump so you can read the black label on the side. The left half of the pump has slits all around it. This end of the pump is the pump cover and it has a spongy filter inside of it. You can pull this end straight off. Do not try to twist it off. Once it’s off, remove the filter from the cover. Rinse the filter out and clean the slits on the cover. Rinse the filter regularly so that it does not become dirty enough to restrict the water flow. If you are missing the pump cover then you need to order replacement parts.
IMPELLER COVER (Part # ‘n/a’, for pumps made in China)
Underneath the pump cover is a piece with 3 prongs coming out of it, a hole in the middle and a spout at the top. This piece is the impeller cover. Through the hole in the center you can see the white impeller. Turn the cover clockwise from the 12 o’clock position to the 2 o’clock position and when the tabs on the pump body line up with the grooves on the cover it will come off. Do not try to pull the cover off without turning it first or you will break one of the tabs on the pump body off. Clean the inside of the impeller cover to make sure there is no sediment or scale build-up inside that would restrict the impeller from turning properly. If you are missing the impeller cover then you need to order replacement parts.
IMPELLER (Part # ‘n/a’, for pumps made in China)
Underneath the pump cover and the impeller cover is a white magnetic impeller with four fins that spins on a silver metal pin. The pin is fixed and does not turn. Remove the magnetic impeller by pinching one of the fins and pulling it straight off. If the fins on the impeller do not appear to be white then it is not clean. Make sure the impeller is clean and that there is no sediment or scale build-up on it that would restrict it from turning easily. If you are missing the impeller then you need to order replacement parts.
MOTOR (for pumps made in China)
Leave the pump cover and impeller cover and impeller off of the pump. The motor should not make any noise or vibration at all while it’s running. It should appear to do nothing without the impeller. If so, then the motor is functioning properly.
• SunJet 150 - My pump runs quietly but doesn’t pump. What do I do? (T)
Please review the troubleshooting information below:
OPTIMUM CONDITIONS & ORIENTATION (for standard external panels)
The solar panel needs to be placed outside in direct sunlight, not indoors behind a window or screen which will filter the light, and not under artificial lighting (i.e. fluorescent or halogen) which will not make it work. Chose a suitable outdoor location where there are no trees that will filter the sunlight. Even the smallest amount of shading reduces panel’s output significantly. Since we are in the northern hemisphere we recommend facing the panel south and tilting it at an angle.
The weather needs to be clear, not hazy or partly cloudy. Just because it’s hot outside and the panel is hot when you touch it does not mean the fountain should be working. Most people assume that the hotter it is outside the better the fountain will work. This is a common misconception, because even though the amount of energy produced by a solar panel is proportional to the strength of the sunlight it receives (based on season), contrary to what you may expect, the higher the temperature of the solar panel the more its output actually decreases, not increases! Generally, temperatures around 68°F or 20°C (room temp) are ideal. You will see the best results in the spring and summer months when the hours between sunrise and sunset are the longest, and in the middle of the day when the sun is directly overhead. Sunlight in the early morning and late afternoon on a nice day (even though it’s bright) may not be strong enough to fully power the pump because the sun is at a low angle. Sunlight throughout the entire day during the late autumn and winter may not be strong enough to fully power the pump.
The panel does not need time to charge before it works and it does not have a built-in battery pack so it will not store any energy. It operates in direct sunlight only.
SOLAR PANEL (for amorphous panel made in Thailand)
The glass on the solar panel needs to be cleaned regularly with a glass cleaner to prevent it from developing any algae, dirt or hard water scale build up that would potentially filter or block the sunlight that the solar panel needs to be able to absorb to power the pump. Once it’s clean the glass should be smooth to the touch, however you may still see some water stains. Make sure that the solar panel has no cracks in the glass. If the panel has any cracks then it needs to be replaced. Hold the panel in the sun, look through the glass, and check for any silver spots or subtle red blotchy areas inside the panel. This would be signs that water has gotten past the seal around the edge and inside the panel. If the panel has this type of discoloration then it needs to be replaced. However, if there’s just a faded area that is an even strip across the whole panel then that is normal and the panel is ok. Look at the underside of the solar panel where the wire is connected to it. Gently flex it back and forth and make sure that there are no breaks in the wire and it has not come away from the panel. If you can see a white or yellow wire exposed then the panel needs to be replaced. If the panel is clean, has no cracks, no discoloration, and no breaks in the wire then it should be functional.
CONNECTION (for panel made in Thailand)
Unplug the wire that connects the solar panel to the pump by pulling them apart. Check for any green or white build-up or corrosion on & in the silver plugs. This would be a sign that water got into the connection because it was not water tight. If there is any build-up in the plugs they will need to be cleaned and dried off before re-connecting them. If there is a lot of build up or rust on the silver plugs then the solar panel or pump or both might need to be replaced. Inspect the black or yellow rubber o-ring on the solar panel plug. If the o-ring is cracked or deteriorated then it needs to be replaced. If you are missing the o-ring then you will have an empty groove around the plug and you need to order a replacement. If the o-ring is ok then reconnect the plugs again. Be sure to twist them as you push them together until the entire o-ring on the solar panel plug is covered all the way around and inside the sleeve of the pump plug to ensure a water-tight connection. If you look at the plugs when it’s flat on a table you should not be able to see the o-ring.
PUMP FILTER HOUSING / CASE / SHELL (for SunJet 150 pump made in Thailand)
Some of our pumps may have a filter housing case around the entire pump. It is teardrop shaped with rows of small holes all the way around it. It has a ‘Smart Solar’ logo sticker on the front with ‘ABS’ below it and on the back of it, and 3 suction cups on the bottom. This housing needs to be removed in order to access the pump. To open the housing, press down on the ‘PRESS’ arrow on the top of the housing and separate it into 2 halves. If you do not have the filter housing case around your pump you do not need to order a replacement, but it’s available an optional accessory.
PUMP COVER (for SunJet 150 with pump made in Thailand)
If you don’t have a filter housing case around your pump then your pump should sit into a circular filter base that stands the pump up vertically. Lift the pump up out of the base and hold the pump so you can read the white label. The top of the pump where the wire comes out is sealed. Do not attempt to open the top of the pump. There are 4 vertical bumps around the bottom of the pump that are shaped like arrows that point downward. The line that goes through all the arrows is where it separates. It is not sealed and is removable. This end of the pump is called the pump cover. It’s shaped like a '6' or ‘9’. You can pull/pop this end straight off. Do not try to twist it off. If you have trouble removing the pump cover, try prying it off using your fingernail, a butter knife, or flat-head screwdriver on the triangle of the second arrow from the right which is below the middle of the white label. Once removed, clean the inside of the cover. Rinse the filter in the base regularly so that it does not become dirty enough to restrict the water flow. If you are missing the pump cover then you need to order replacement parts.
IMPELLER (for pump made in Thailand)
Underneath the pump cover is a circular magnetic impeller with two fins that spins on a silver metal pin. The pin is fixed and does not turn. Remove the magnetic impeller with pliers by pulling it straight off by one of the fins or get under it with something flat and lift it off. Make sure the pump housing and impeller are clean and that there is no sediment or scale build-up inside that would restrict it from turning easily. If you are missing the impeller then you need to order replacement parts.
AIR (for SunJet 150 with pump made in Thailand)
If the motor runs and the impeller spins on its own then re-attach the pump cover making sure that its snapped on securely all the way around. Place the pump back into the circular filter base and submerge it in the water. Make sure that the water level in your fountain is at least 1 inch (2.5 cm) minimum. If the water is any lower than that the pump may suck up some air. It may take a few minutes in direct sunlight before all the air is expelled and water begins to spray up through the tube. Don’t pour water down the tube to ‘help get the air out’ as this will only make it harder for the pump impeller to spin in the right direction.
OPTIMUM CONDITIONS & ORIENTATION (for standard external panels)
The solar panel needs to be placed outside in direct sunlight, not indoors behind a window or screen which will filter the light, and not under artificial lighting (i.e. fluorescent or halogen) which will not make it work. Chose a suitable outdoor location where there are no trees that will filter the sunlight. Even the smallest amount of shading reduces panel’s output significantly. Since we are in the northern hemisphere we recommend facing the panel south and tilting it at an angle.
The weather needs to be clear, not hazy or partly cloudy. Just because it’s hot outside and the panel is hot when you touch it does not mean the fountain should be working. Most people assume that the hotter it is outside the better the fountain will work. This is a common misconception, because even though the amount of energy produced by a solar panel is proportional to the strength of the sunlight it receives (based on season), contrary to what you may expect, the higher the temperature of the solar panel the more its output actually decreases, not increases! Generally, temperatures around 68°F or 20°C (room temp) are ideal. You will see the best results in the spring and summer months when the hours between sunrise and sunset are the longest, and in the middle of the day when the sun is directly overhead. Sunlight in the early morning and late afternoon on a nice day (even though it’s bright) may not be strong enough to fully power the pump because the sun is at a low angle. Sunlight throughout the entire day during the late autumn and winter may not be strong enough to fully power the pump.
The panel does not need time to charge before it works and it does not have a built-in battery pack so it will not store any energy. It operates in direct sunlight only.
SOLAR PANEL (for amorphous panel made in Thailand)
The glass on the solar panel needs to be cleaned regularly with a glass cleaner to prevent it from developing any algae, dirt or hard water scale build up that would potentially filter or block the sunlight that the solar panel needs to be able to absorb to power the pump. Once it’s clean the glass should be smooth to the touch, however you may still see some water stains. Make sure that the solar panel has no cracks in the glass. If the panel has any cracks then it needs to be replaced. Hold the panel in the sun, look through the glass, and check for any silver spots or subtle red blotchy areas inside the panel. This would be signs that water has gotten past the seal around the edge and inside the panel. If the panel has this type of discoloration then it needs to be replaced. However, if there’s just a faded area that is an even strip across the whole panel then that is normal and the panel is ok. Look at the underside of the solar panel where the wire is connected to it. Gently flex it back and forth and make sure that there are no breaks in the wire and it has not come away from the panel. If you can see a white or yellow wire exposed then the panel needs to be replaced. If the panel is clean, has no cracks, no discoloration, and no breaks in the wire then it should be functional.
CONNECTION (for panel made in Thailand)
Unplug the wire that connects the solar panel to the pump by pulling them apart. Check for any green or white build-up or corrosion on & in the silver plugs. This would be a sign that water got into the connection because it was not water tight. If there is any build-up in the plugs they will need to be cleaned and dried off before re-connecting them. If there is a lot of build up or rust on the silver plugs then the solar panel or pump or both might need to be replaced. Inspect the black or yellow rubber o-ring on the solar panel plug. If the o-ring is cracked or deteriorated then it needs to be replaced. If you are missing the o-ring then you will have an empty groove around the plug and you need to order a replacement. If the o-ring is ok then reconnect the plugs again. Be sure to twist them as you push them together until the entire o-ring on the solar panel plug is covered all the way around and inside the sleeve of the pump plug to ensure a water-tight connection. If you look at the plugs when it’s flat on a table you should not be able to see the o-ring.
PUMP FILTER HOUSING / CASE / SHELL (for SunJet 150 pump made in Thailand)
Some of our pumps may have a filter housing case around the entire pump. It is teardrop shaped with rows of small holes all the way around it. It has a ‘Smart Solar’ logo sticker on the front with ‘ABS’ below it and on the back of it, and 3 suction cups on the bottom. This housing needs to be removed in order to access the pump. To open the housing, press down on the ‘PRESS’ arrow on the top of the housing and separate it into 2 halves. If you do not have the filter housing case around your pump you do not need to order a replacement, but it’s available an optional accessory.
PUMP COVER (for SunJet 150 with pump made in Thailand)
If you don’t have a filter housing case around your pump then your pump should sit into a circular filter base that stands the pump up vertically. Lift the pump up out of the base and hold the pump so you can read the white label. The top of the pump where the wire comes out is sealed. Do not attempt to open the top of the pump. There are 4 vertical bumps around the bottom of the pump that are shaped like arrows that point downward. The line that goes through all the arrows is where it separates. It is not sealed and is removable. This end of the pump is called the pump cover. It’s shaped like a '6' or ‘9’. You can pull/pop this end straight off. Do not try to twist it off. If you have trouble removing the pump cover, try prying it off using your fingernail, a butter knife, or flat-head screwdriver on the triangle of the second arrow from the right which is below the middle of the white label. Once removed, clean the inside of the cover. Rinse the filter in the base regularly so that it does not become dirty enough to restrict the water flow. If you are missing the pump cover then you need to order replacement parts.
IMPELLER (for pump made in Thailand)
Underneath the pump cover is a circular magnetic impeller with two fins that spins on a silver metal pin. The pin is fixed and does not turn. Remove the magnetic impeller with pliers by pulling it straight off by one of the fins or get under it with something flat and lift it off. Make sure the pump housing and impeller are clean and that there is no sediment or scale build-up inside that would restrict it from turning easily. If you are missing the impeller then you need to order replacement parts.
AIR (for SunJet 150 with pump made in Thailand)
If the motor runs and the impeller spins on its own then re-attach the pump cover making sure that its snapped on securely all the way around. Place the pump back into the circular filter base and submerge it in the water. Make sure that the water level in your fountain is at least 1 inch (2.5 cm) minimum. If the water is any lower than that the pump may suck up some air. It may take a few minutes in direct sunlight before all the air is expelled and water begins to spray up through the tube. Don’t pour water down the tube to ‘help get the air out’ as this will only make it harder for the pump impeller to spin in the right direction.
• SunJet 150 - My pump runs quietly but doesn’t pump. What do I do? (C)
Please review the troubleshooting information below:
OPTIMUM CONDITIONS & ORIENTATION (for standard external panels)
The solar panel needs to be placed outside in direct sunlight, not indoors behind a window or screen which will filter the light, and not under artificial lighting (i.e. fluorescent or halogen) which will not make it work. Chose a suitable outdoor location where there are no trees that will filter the sunlight. Even the smallest amount of shading reduces panel’s output significantly. Since we are in the northern hemisphere we recommend facing the panel south and tilting it at an angle.
The weather needs to be clear, not hazy or partly cloudy. Just because it’s hot outside and the panel is hot when you touch it does not mean the fountain should be working. Most people assume that the hotter it is outside the better the fountain will work. This is a common misconception, because even though the amount of energy produced by a solar panel is proportional to the strength of the sunlight it receives (based on season), contrary to what you may expect, the higher the temperature of the solar panel the more its output actually decreases, not increases! Generally, temperatures around 68°F or 20°C (room temp) are ideal. You will see the best results in the spring and summer months when the hours between sunrise and sunset are the longest, and in the middle of the day when the sun is directly overhead. Sunlight in the early morning and late afternoon on a nice day (even though it’s bright) may not be strong enough to fully power the pump because the sun is at a low angle. Sunlight throughout the entire day during the late autumn and winter may not be strong enough to fully power the pump.
The panel does not need time to charge before it works and it does not have a built-in battery pack so it will not store any energy. It operates in direct sunlight only.
SOLAR PANEL (for crystalline panel made in China)
The glass on the solar panel needs to be cleaned regularly with a glass cleaner to prevent it from developing any algae, dirt or scale build up that would potentially filter or block the sunlight that the solar panel needs to be able to absorb to power the pump. The surface of the glass is textured so even after it’s clean it won’t feel smooth. Make sure that the solar panel has no cracks in the glass. Look through the glass and check for any bubbles or air pockets inside the panel under the glass. If there’s a blue tint to some of the lines of solar cells that is normal. If the panel has any cracks or internal water damage then it needs to be replaced. Look at the underside of the solar panel where the wire is connected to it. Gently flex it back and forth and make sure that there are no breaks in the wire and it has not come away from the panel. If you can see a white or yellow wire exposed, a crack in the glass, or bubbles under the glass then you need to order a replacement. If the panel is clean and doesn’t have any cracks or spots then it should be functional.
CONNECTION (for panel made in China)
Unplug the wire that connects the solar panel to the pump by pulling them apart. Check for any green or white build-up or corrosion on & in the silver plugs. This would be a sign that water got into the connection because it was not water tight. If there is any build-up in the plugs they will need to be cleaned and dried off before re-connecting them. If there is a lot of build up or rust on the silver plugs then the solar panel or pump or both might need to be replaced. Inspect the red rubber o-ring on the solar panel plug. If the o-ring is cracked or deteriorated then it needs to be replaced. If you are missing the o-ring then you will have an empty groove around the plug and you need to order a replacement. If the o-ring is ok then reconnect the plugs again. Be sure to twist them as you push them together until the entire o-ring on the solar panel plug is covered all the way around and inside the sleeve of the pump plug to ensure a water-tight connection. If you look at the plugs when it’s flat on a table you should not be able to see the o-ring.
PUMP COVER WITH FILTER (for pump made in China)
Hold the pump so you can read the black label on the side. The left half of the pump has slits all around it. This end of the pump is the pump cover and it has a spongy filter inside of it. You can pull this end straight off. Do not try to twist it off. Once it’s off, remove the filter from the cover. Rinse the filter out and clean the slits on the cover. Rinse the filter regularly so that it does not become dirty enough to restrict the water flow. If you are missing the pump cover then you need to order replacement parts.
IMPELLER COVER (for pump made in China)
Underneath the pump cover is a piece with 3 prongs coming out of it, a hole in the middle and a spout at the top. This piece is the impeller cover. Through the hole in the center you can see the white impeller. Turn the cover clockwise from the 12 o’clock position to the 2 o’clock position and when the tabs on the pump body line up with the grooves on the cover it will come off. Do not try to pull the cover off without turning it first or you will break one of the tabs on the pump body off. Clean the inside of the impeller cover to make sure there is no sediment or scale build-up inside that would restrict the impeller from turning properly. If you are missing the impeller cover then you need to order replacement parts.
IMPELLER (for pump made in China)
Underneath the pump cover and the impeller cover is a white magnetic impeller with four fins that spins on a silver metal pin. The pin is fixed and does not turn. Remove the magnetic impeller by pinching one of the fins and pulling it straight off. If the fins on the impeller do not appear to be white then it is not clean. Make sure the impeller is clean and that there is no sediment or scale build-up on it that would restrict it from turning easily. If you are missing the impeller then you need to order replacement parts.
AIR (for SunJet 150 with pump made in China)
If the motor runs and the impeller spins on its own then re-attach the impeller cover and the pump cover. Place the pump back into the fountain and submerge it in the water. Make sure that the water level in your fountain is at least 1 ¼” (3 cm) minimum. If the water is any lower than that the pump may suck up some air. It may take a few minutes in direct sunlight before all the air is expelled and water begins to spray up through the pump. Don’t pour water down the tube to ‘help get the air out’ as this will only make it harder for the pump impeller to spin in the right direction.
OPTIMUM CONDITIONS & ORIENTATION (for standard external panels)
The solar panel needs to be placed outside in direct sunlight, not indoors behind a window or screen which will filter the light, and not under artificial lighting (i.e. fluorescent or halogen) which will not make it work. Chose a suitable outdoor location where there are no trees that will filter the sunlight. Even the smallest amount of shading reduces panel’s output significantly. Since we are in the northern hemisphere we recommend facing the panel south and tilting it at an angle.
The weather needs to be clear, not hazy or partly cloudy. Just because it’s hot outside and the panel is hot when you touch it does not mean the fountain should be working. Most people assume that the hotter it is outside the better the fountain will work. This is a common misconception, because even though the amount of energy produced by a solar panel is proportional to the strength of the sunlight it receives (based on season), contrary to what you may expect, the higher the temperature of the solar panel the more its output actually decreases, not increases! Generally, temperatures around 68°F or 20°C (room temp) are ideal. You will see the best results in the spring and summer months when the hours between sunrise and sunset are the longest, and in the middle of the day when the sun is directly overhead. Sunlight in the early morning and late afternoon on a nice day (even though it’s bright) may not be strong enough to fully power the pump because the sun is at a low angle. Sunlight throughout the entire day during the late autumn and winter may not be strong enough to fully power the pump.
The panel does not need time to charge before it works and it does not have a built-in battery pack so it will not store any energy. It operates in direct sunlight only.
SOLAR PANEL (for crystalline panel made in China)
The glass on the solar panel needs to be cleaned regularly with a glass cleaner to prevent it from developing any algae, dirt or scale build up that would potentially filter or block the sunlight that the solar panel needs to be able to absorb to power the pump. The surface of the glass is textured so even after it’s clean it won’t feel smooth. Make sure that the solar panel has no cracks in the glass. Look through the glass and check for any bubbles or air pockets inside the panel under the glass. If there’s a blue tint to some of the lines of solar cells that is normal. If the panel has any cracks or internal water damage then it needs to be replaced. Look at the underside of the solar panel where the wire is connected to it. Gently flex it back and forth and make sure that there are no breaks in the wire and it has not come away from the panel. If you can see a white or yellow wire exposed, a crack in the glass, or bubbles under the glass then you need to order a replacement. If the panel is clean and doesn’t have any cracks or spots then it should be functional.
CONNECTION (for panel made in China)
Unplug the wire that connects the solar panel to the pump by pulling them apart. Check for any green or white build-up or corrosion on & in the silver plugs. This would be a sign that water got into the connection because it was not water tight. If there is any build-up in the plugs they will need to be cleaned and dried off before re-connecting them. If there is a lot of build up or rust on the silver plugs then the solar panel or pump or both might need to be replaced. Inspect the red rubber o-ring on the solar panel plug. If the o-ring is cracked or deteriorated then it needs to be replaced. If you are missing the o-ring then you will have an empty groove around the plug and you need to order a replacement. If the o-ring is ok then reconnect the plugs again. Be sure to twist them as you push them together until the entire o-ring on the solar panel plug is covered all the way around and inside the sleeve of the pump plug to ensure a water-tight connection. If you look at the plugs when it’s flat on a table you should not be able to see the o-ring.
PUMP COVER WITH FILTER (for pump made in China)
Hold the pump so you can read the black label on the side. The left half of the pump has slits all around it. This end of the pump is the pump cover and it has a spongy filter inside of it. You can pull this end straight off. Do not try to twist it off. Once it’s off, remove the filter from the cover. Rinse the filter out and clean the slits on the cover. Rinse the filter regularly so that it does not become dirty enough to restrict the water flow. If you are missing the pump cover then you need to order replacement parts.
IMPELLER COVER (for pump made in China)
Underneath the pump cover is a piece with 3 prongs coming out of it, a hole in the middle and a spout at the top. This piece is the impeller cover. Through the hole in the center you can see the white impeller. Turn the cover clockwise from the 12 o’clock position to the 2 o’clock position and when the tabs on the pump body line up with the grooves on the cover it will come off. Do not try to pull the cover off without turning it first or you will break one of the tabs on the pump body off. Clean the inside of the impeller cover to make sure there is no sediment or scale build-up inside that would restrict the impeller from turning properly. If you are missing the impeller cover then you need to order replacement parts.
IMPELLER (for pump made in China)
Underneath the pump cover and the impeller cover is a white magnetic impeller with four fins that spins on a silver metal pin. The pin is fixed and does not turn. Remove the magnetic impeller by pinching one of the fins and pulling it straight off. If the fins on the impeller do not appear to be white then it is not clean. Make sure the impeller is clean and that there is no sediment or scale build-up on it that would restrict it from turning easily. If you are missing the impeller then you need to order replacement parts.
AIR (for SunJet 150 with pump made in China)
If the motor runs and the impeller spins on its own then re-attach the impeller cover and the pump cover. Place the pump back into the fountain and submerge it in the water. Make sure that the water level in your fountain is at least 1 ¼” (3 cm) minimum. If the water is any lower than that the pump may suck up some air. It may take a few minutes in direct sunlight before all the air is expelled and water begins to spray up through the pump. Don’t pour water down the tube to ‘help get the air out’ as this will only make it harder for the pump impeller to spin in the right direction.
• SunJet 150 - My pump isn’t running at all. What do I do? (T)
Please review the troubleshooting information below:
OPTIMUM CONDITIONS & ORIENTATION (for standard external panels)
The solar panel needs to be placed outside in direct sunlight, not indoors behind a window or screen which will filter the light, and not under artificial lighting (i.e. fluorescent or halogen) which will not make it work. Chose a suitable outdoor location where there are no trees that will filter the sunlight. Even the smallest amount of shading reduces panel’s output significantly. Since we are in the northern hemisphere we recommend facing the panel south and tilting it at an angle.
The weather needs to be clear, not hazy or partly cloudy. Just because it’s hot outside and the panel is hot when you touch it does not mean the fountain should be working. Most people assume that the hotter it is outside the better the fountain will work. This is a common misconception, because even though the amount of energy produced by a solar panel is proportional to the strength of the sunlight it receives (based on season), contrary to what you may expect, the higher the temperature of the solar panel the more its output actually decreases, not increases! Generally, temperatures around 68°F or 20°C (room temp) are ideal. You will see the best results in the spring and summer months when the hours between sunrise and sunset are the longest, and in the middle of the day when the sun is directly overhead. Sunlight in the early morning and late afternoon on a nice day (even though it’s bright) may not be strong enough to fully power the pump because the sun is at a low angle. Sunlight throughout the entire day during the late autumn and winter may not be strong enough to fully power the pump.
The panel does not need time to charge before it works and it does not have a built-in battery pack so it will not store any energy. It operates in direct sunlight only.
SOLAR PANEL (for amorphous panel made in Thailand)
The glass on the solar panel needs to be cleaned regularly with a glass cleaner to prevent it from developing any algae, dirt or hard water scale build up that would potentially filter or block the sunlight that the solar panel needs to be able to absorb to power the pump. Once it’s clean the glass should be smooth to the touch, however you may still see some water stains. Make sure that the solar panel has no cracks in the glass. If the panel has any cracks then it needs to be replaced. Hold the panel in the sun, look through the glass, and check for any silver spots or subtle red blotchy areas inside the panel. This would be signs that water has gotten past the seal around the edge and inside the panel. If the panel has this type of discoloration then it needs to be replaced. However, if there’s just a faded area that is an even strip across the whole panel then that is normal and the panel is ok. Look at the underside of the solar panel where the wire is connected to it. Gently flex it back and forth and make sure that there are no breaks in the wire and it has not come away from the panel. If you can see a white or yellow wire exposed then the panel needs to be replaced. If the panel is clean, has no cracks, no discoloration, and no breaks in the wire then it should be functional.
CONNECTION (for panel made in Thailand)
Unplug the wire that connects the solar panel to the pump by pulling them apart. Check for any green or white build-up or corrosion on & in the silver plugs. This would be a sign that water got into the connection because it was not water tight. If there is any build-up in the plugs they will need to be cleaned and dried off before re-connecting them. If there is a lot of build up or rust on the silver plugs then the solar panel or pump or both might need to be replaced. Inspect the black or yellow rubber o-ring on the solar panel plug. If the o-ring is cracked or deteriorated then it needs to be replaced. If you are missing the o-ring then you will have an empty groove around the plug and you need to order a replacement. If the o-ring is ok then reconnect the plugs again. Be sure to twist them as you push them together until the entire o-ring on the solar panel plug is covered all the way around and inside the sleeve of the pump plug to ensure a water-tight connection. If you look at the plugs when it’s flat on a table you should not be able to see the o-ring.
PUMP FILTER HOUSING / CASE / SHELL (for SunJet 150 pump made in Thailand)
Some of our pumps may have a filter housing case around the entire pump. It is teardrop shaped with rows of small holes all the way around it. It has a ‘Smart Solar’ logo sticker on the front with ‘ABS’ below it and on the back of it, and 3 suction cups on the bottom. This housing needs to be removed in order to access the pump. To open the housing, press down on the ‘PRESS’ arrow on the top of the housing and separate it into 2 halves. If you do not have the filter housing case around your pump you do not need to order a replacement, but it’s available an optional accessory.
PUMP COVER (for SunJet 150 with pump made in Thailand)
If you don’t have a filter housing case around your pump then your pump should sit into a circular filter base that stands the pump up vertically. Lift the pump up out of the base and hold the pump so you can read the white label. The top of the pump where the wire comes out is sealed. Do not attempt to open the top of the pump. There are 4 vertical bumps around the bottom of the pump that are shaped like arrows that point downward. The line that goes through all the arrows is where it separates. It is not sealed and is removable. This end of the pump is called the pump cover. It’s shaped like a '6' or ‘9’. You can pull/pop this end straight off. Do not try to twist it off. If you have trouble removing the pump cover, try prying it off using your fingernail, a butter knife, or flat-head screwdriver on the triangle of the second arrow from the right which is below the middle of the white label. Once removed, clean the inside of the cover. Rinse the filter in the base regularly so that it does not become dirty enough to restrict the water flow. If you are missing the pump cover then you need to order replacement parts.
IMPELLER (for pump made in Thailand)
Underneath the pump cover is a circular magnetic impeller with two fins that spins on a silver metal pin. The pin is fixed and does not turn. Remove the magnetic impeller with pliers by pulling it straight off by one of the fins or get under it with something flat and lift it off. Make sure the pump housing and impeller are clean and that there is no sediment or scale build-up inside that would restrict it from turning easily. If you are missing the impeller then you need to order replacement parts.
MANUAL START (universal)
If the impeller does not turn on its own, try manually starting the pump. To do so, take the pump and solar panel outside and make sure the connection is correct. The pump does not have to be in water for a manual start. Hold it up in the air and while facing the solar panel toward direct sunlight, turn the impeller clock-wise with your finger. Please note that attempting to try a manual start outside when it’s cloudy or indoors by holding the solar panel under a light in your house will not work. You must be outside in direct sunlight, not behind a window or screen.
AIR (for SunJet 150 with pump made in Thailand)
If the motor runs and the impeller spins on its own then re-attach the pump cover making sure that its snapped on securely all the way around. Place the pump back into the circular filter base and submerge it in the water. Make sure that the water level in your fountain is at least 1 inch (2.5 cm) minimum. If the water is any lower than that the pump may suck up some air. It may take a few minutes in direct sunlight before all the air is expelled and water begins to spray up through the tube. Don’t pour water down the tube to ‘help get the air out’ as this will only make it harder for the pump impeller to spin in the right direction.
OPTIMUM CONDITIONS & ORIENTATION (for standard external panels)
The solar panel needs to be placed outside in direct sunlight, not indoors behind a window or screen which will filter the light, and not under artificial lighting (i.e. fluorescent or halogen) which will not make it work. Chose a suitable outdoor location where there are no trees that will filter the sunlight. Even the smallest amount of shading reduces panel’s output significantly. Since we are in the northern hemisphere we recommend facing the panel south and tilting it at an angle.
The weather needs to be clear, not hazy or partly cloudy. Just because it’s hot outside and the panel is hot when you touch it does not mean the fountain should be working. Most people assume that the hotter it is outside the better the fountain will work. This is a common misconception, because even though the amount of energy produced by a solar panel is proportional to the strength of the sunlight it receives (based on season), contrary to what you may expect, the higher the temperature of the solar panel the more its output actually decreases, not increases! Generally, temperatures around 68°F or 20°C (room temp) are ideal. You will see the best results in the spring and summer months when the hours between sunrise and sunset are the longest, and in the middle of the day when the sun is directly overhead. Sunlight in the early morning and late afternoon on a nice day (even though it’s bright) may not be strong enough to fully power the pump because the sun is at a low angle. Sunlight throughout the entire day during the late autumn and winter may not be strong enough to fully power the pump.
The panel does not need time to charge before it works and it does not have a built-in battery pack so it will not store any energy. It operates in direct sunlight only.
SOLAR PANEL (for amorphous panel made in Thailand)
The glass on the solar panel needs to be cleaned regularly with a glass cleaner to prevent it from developing any algae, dirt or hard water scale build up that would potentially filter or block the sunlight that the solar panel needs to be able to absorb to power the pump. Once it’s clean the glass should be smooth to the touch, however you may still see some water stains. Make sure that the solar panel has no cracks in the glass. If the panel has any cracks then it needs to be replaced. Hold the panel in the sun, look through the glass, and check for any silver spots or subtle red blotchy areas inside the panel. This would be signs that water has gotten past the seal around the edge and inside the panel. If the panel has this type of discoloration then it needs to be replaced. However, if there’s just a faded area that is an even strip across the whole panel then that is normal and the panel is ok. Look at the underside of the solar panel where the wire is connected to it. Gently flex it back and forth and make sure that there are no breaks in the wire and it has not come away from the panel. If you can see a white or yellow wire exposed then the panel needs to be replaced. If the panel is clean, has no cracks, no discoloration, and no breaks in the wire then it should be functional.
CONNECTION (for panel made in Thailand)
Unplug the wire that connects the solar panel to the pump by pulling them apart. Check for any green or white build-up or corrosion on & in the silver plugs. This would be a sign that water got into the connection because it was not water tight. If there is any build-up in the plugs they will need to be cleaned and dried off before re-connecting them. If there is a lot of build up or rust on the silver plugs then the solar panel or pump or both might need to be replaced. Inspect the black or yellow rubber o-ring on the solar panel plug. If the o-ring is cracked or deteriorated then it needs to be replaced. If you are missing the o-ring then you will have an empty groove around the plug and you need to order a replacement. If the o-ring is ok then reconnect the plugs again. Be sure to twist them as you push them together until the entire o-ring on the solar panel plug is covered all the way around and inside the sleeve of the pump plug to ensure a water-tight connection. If you look at the plugs when it’s flat on a table you should not be able to see the o-ring.
PUMP FILTER HOUSING / CASE / SHELL (for SunJet 150 pump made in Thailand)
Some of our pumps may have a filter housing case around the entire pump. It is teardrop shaped with rows of small holes all the way around it. It has a ‘Smart Solar’ logo sticker on the front with ‘ABS’ below it and on the back of it, and 3 suction cups on the bottom. This housing needs to be removed in order to access the pump. To open the housing, press down on the ‘PRESS’ arrow on the top of the housing and separate it into 2 halves. If you do not have the filter housing case around your pump you do not need to order a replacement, but it’s available an optional accessory.
PUMP COVER (for SunJet 150 with pump made in Thailand)
If you don’t have a filter housing case around your pump then your pump should sit into a circular filter base that stands the pump up vertically. Lift the pump up out of the base and hold the pump so you can read the white label. The top of the pump where the wire comes out is sealed. Do not attempt to open the top of the pump. There are 4 vertical bumps around the bottom of the pump that are shaped like arrows that point downward. The line that goes through all the arrows is where it separates. It is not sealed and is removable. This end of the pump is called the pump cover. It’s shaped like a '6' or ‘9’. You can pull/pop this end straight off. Do not try to twist it off. If you have trouble removing the pump cover, try prying it off using your fingernail, a butter knife, or flat-head screwdriver on the triangle of the second arrow from the right which is below the middle of the white label. Once removed, clean the inside of the cover. Rinse the filter in the base regularly so that it does not become dirty enough to restrict the water flow. If you are missing the pump cover then you need to order replacement parts.
IMPELLER (for pump made in Thailand)
Underneath the pump cover is a circular magnetic impeller with two fins that spins on a silver metal pin. The pin is fixed and does not turn. Remove the magnetic impeller with pliers by pulling it straight off by one of the fins or get under it with something flat and lift it off. Make sure the pump housing and impeller are clean and that there is no sediment or scale build-up inside that would restrict it from turning easily. If you are missing the impeller then you need to order replacement parts.
MANUAL START (universal)
If the impeller does not turn on its own, try manually starting the pump. To do so, take the pump and solar panel outside and make sure the connection is correct. The pump does not have to be in water for a manual start. Hold it up in the air and while facing the solar panel toward direct sunlight, turn the impeller clock-wise with your finger. Please note that attempting to try a manual start outside when it’s cloudy or indoors by holding the solar panel under a light in your house will not work. You must be outside in direct sunlight, not behind a window or screen.
AIR (for SunJet 150 with pump made in Thailand)
If the motor runs and the impeller spins on its own then re-attach the pump cover making sure that its snapped on securely all the way around. Place the pump back into the circular filter base and submerge it in the water. Make sure that the water level in your fountain is at least 1 inch (2.5 cm) minimum. If the water is any lower than that the pump may suck up some air. It may take a few minutes in direct sunlight before all the air is expelled and water begins to spray up through the tube. Don’t pour water down the tube to ‘help get the air out’ as this will only make it harder for the pump impeller to spin in the right direction.
• SunJet 150 - My pump isn’t running at all. What do I do? (C)
Please review the troubleshooting information below:
OPTIMUM CONDITIONS & ORIENTATION (for standard external panels)
The solar panel needs to be placed outside in direct sunlight, not indoors behind a window or screen which will filter the light, and not under artificial lighting (i.e. fluorescent or halogen) which will not make it work. Chose a suitable outdoor location where there are no trees that will filter the sunlight. Even the smallest amount of shading reduces panel’s output significantly. Since we are in the northern hemisphere we recommend facing the panel south and tilting it at an angle.
The weather needs to be clear, not hazy or partly cloudy. Just because it’s hot outside and the panel is hot when you touch it does not mean the fountain should be working. Most people assume that the hotter it is outside the better the fountain will work. This is a common misconception, because even though the amount of energy produced by a solar panel is proportional to the strength of the sunlight it receives (based on season), contrary to what you may expect, the higher the temperature of the solar panel the more its output actually decreases, not increases! Generally, temperatures around 68°F or 20°C (room temp) are ideal. You will see the best results in the spring and summer months when the hours between sunrise and sunset are the longest, and in the middle of the day when the sun is directly overhead. Sunlight in the early morning and late afternoon on a nice day (even though it’s bright) may not be strong enough to fully power the pump because the sun is at a low angle. Sunlight throughout the entire day during the late autumn and winter may not be strong enough to fully power the pump.
The panel does not need time to charge before it works and it does not have a built-in battery pack so it will not store any energy. It operates in direct sunlight only. SOLAR PANEL (for crystalline panel made in China)
The glass on the solar panel needs to be cleaned regularly with a glass cleaner to prevent it from developing any algae, dirt or scale build up that would potentially filter or block the sunlight that the solar panel needs to be able to absorb to power the pump. The surface of the glass is textured so even after it’s clean it won’t feel smooth. Make sure that the solar panel has no cracks in the glass. Look through the glass and check for any bubbles or air pockets inside the panel under the glass. If there’s a blue tint to some of the lines of solar cells that is normal. If the panel has any cracks or internal water damage then it needs to be replaced. Look at the underside of the solar panel where the wire is connected to it. Gently flex it back and forth and make sure that there are no breaks in the wire and it has not come away from the panel. If you can see a white or yellow wire exposed, a crack in the glass, or bubbles under the glass then you need to order a replacement. If the panel is clean and doesn’t have any cracks or spots then it should be functional.
CONNECTION (for panel made in China)
Unplug the wire that connects the solar panel to the pump by pulling them apart. Check for any green or white build-up or corrosion on & in the silver plugs. This would be a sign that water got into the connection because it was not water tight. If there is any build-up in the plugs they will need to be cleaned and dried off before re-connecting them. If there is a lot of build up or rust on the silver plugs then the solar panel or pump or both might need to be replaced. Inspect the red rubber o-ring on the solar panel plug. If the o-ring is cracked or deteriorated then it needs to be replaced. If you are missing the o-ring then you will have an empty groove around the plug and you need to order a replacement. If the o-ring is ok then reconnect the plugs again. Be sure to twist them as you push them together until the entire o-ring on the solar panel plug is covered all the way around and inside the sleeve of the pump plug to ensure a water-tight connection. If you look at the plugs when it’s flat on a table you should not be able to see the o-ring.
TUBE (for Lily)
Make sure the pump tube is securely attached to the tube on the bottom of the solar panel. If your pump swings around or dangles on the wire when you lift up the lily then the tube is not connected. The pump will not be able to push the water up through the panel if the tube is not connected.
PUMP COVER WITH FILTER (for pump made in China)
Hold the pump so you can read the black label on the side. The left half of the pump has slits all around it. This end of the pump is the pump cover and it has a spongy filter inside of it. You can pull this end straight off. Do not try to twist it off. Once it’s off, remove the filter from the cover. Rinse the filter out and clean the slits on the cover. Rinse the filter regularly so that it does not become dirty enough to restrict the water flow. If you are missing the pump cover then you need to order replacement parts.
IMPELLER COVER (for pump made in China)
Underneath the pump cover is a piece with 3 prongs coming out of it, a hole in the middle and a spout at the top. This piece is the impeller cover. Through the hole in the center you can see the white impeller. Turn the cover clockwise from the 12 o’clock position to the 2 o’clock position and when the tabs on the pump body line up with the grooves on the cover it will come off. Do not try to pull the cover off without turning it first or you will break one of the tabs on the pump body off. Clean the inside of the impeller cover to make sure there is no sediment or scale build-up inside that would restrict the impeller from turning properly. If you are missing the impeller cover then you need to order replacement parts.
IMPELLER (for pump made in China)
Underneath the pump cover and the impeller cover is a white magnetic impeller with four fins that spins on a silver metal pin. The pin is fixed and does not turn. Remove the magnetic impeller by pinching one of the fins and pulling it straight off. If the fins on the impeller do not appear to be white then it is not clean. Make sure the impeller is clean and that there is no sediment or scale build-up on it that would restrict it from turning easily. If you are missing the impeller then you need to order replacement parts.
MANUAL START (universal)
If the impeller does not turn on its own, try manually starting the pump. To do so, take the pump and solar panel outside and make sure the connection is correct. The pump does not have to be in water for a manual start. Hold it up in the air and while facing the solar panel toward direct sunlight, turn the impeller clock-wise with your finger. Please note that attempting to try a manual start outside when it’s cloudy or indoors by holding the solar panel under a light in your house will not work. You must be outside in direct sunlight, not behind a window or screen.
AIR (for SunJet 150 with pump made in China)
If the motor runs and the impeller spins on its own then re-attach the impeller cover and the pump cover. Place the pump back into the fountain and submerge it in the water. Make sure that the water level in your fountain is at least 1 ¼” (3 cm) minimum. If the water is any lower than that the pump may suck up some air. It may take a few minutes in direct sunlight before all the air is expelled and water begins to spray up through the pump. Don’t pour water down the tube to ‘help get the air out’ as this will only make it harder for the pump impeller to spin in the right direction.
OPTIMUM CONDITIONS & ORIENTATION (for standard external panels)
The solar panel needs to be placed outside in direct sunlight, not indoors behind a window or screen which will filter the light, and not under artificial lighting (i.e. fluorescent or halogen) which will not make it work. Chose a suitable outdoor location where there are no trees that will filter the sunlight. Even the smallest amount of shading reduces panel’s output significantly. Since we are in the northern hemisphere we recommend facing the panel south and tilting it at an angle.
The weather needs to be clear, not hazy or partly cloudy. Just because it’s hot outside and the panel is hot when you touch it does not mean the fountain should be working. Most people assume that the hotter it is outside the better the fountain will work. This is a common misconception, because even though the amount of energy produced by a solar panel is proportional to the strength of the sunlight it receives (based on season), contrary to what you may expect, the higher the temperature of the solar panel the more its output actually decreases, not increases! Generally, temperatures around 68°F or 20°C (room temp) are ideal. You will see the best results in the spring and summer months when the hours between sunrise and sunset are the longest, and in the middle of the day when the sun is directly overhead. Sunlight in the early morning and late afternoon on a nice day (even though it’s bright) may not be strong enough to fully power the pump because the sun is at a low angle. Sunlight throughout the entire day during the late autumn and winter may not be strong enough to fully power the pump.
The panel does not need time to charge before it works and it does not have a built-in battery pack so it will not store any energy. It operates in direct sunlight only. SOLAR PANEL (for crystalline panel made in China)
The glass on the solar panel needs to be cleaned regularly with a glass cleaner to prevent it from developing any algae, dirt or scale build up that would potentially filter or block the sunlight that the solar panel needs to be able to absorb to power the pump. The surface of the glass is textured so even after it’s clean it won’t feel smooth. Make sure that the solar panel has no cracks in the glass. Look through the glass and check for any bubbles or air pockets inside the panel under the glass. If there’s a blue tint to some of the lines of solar cells that is normal. If the panel has any cracks or internal water damage then it needs to be replaced. Look at the underside of the solar panel where the wire is connected to it. Gently flex it back and forth and make sure that there are no breaks in the wire and it has not come away from the panel. If you can see a white or yellow wire exposed, a crack in the glass, or bubbles under the glass then you need to order a replacement. If the panel is clean and doesn’t have any cracks or spots then it should be functional.
CONNECTION (for panel made in China)
Unplug the wire that connects the solar panel to the pump by pulling them apart. Check for any green or white build-up or corrosion on & in the silver plugs. This would be a sign that water got into the connection because it was not water tight. If there is any build-up in the plugs they will need to be cleaned and dried off before re-connecting them. If there is a lot of build up or rust on the silver plugs then the solar panel or pump or both might need to be replaced. Inspect the red rubber o-ring on the solar panel plug. If the o-ring is cracked or deteriorated then it needs to be replaced. If you are missing the o-ring then you will have an empty groove around the plug and you need to order a replacement. If the o-ring is ok then reconnect the plugs again. Be sure to twist them as you push them together until the entire o-ring on the solar panel plug is covered all the way around and inside the sleeve of the pump plug to ensure a water-tight connection. If you look at the plugs when it’s flat on a table you should not be able to see the o-ring.
TUBE (for Lily)
Make sure the pump tube is securely attached to the tube on the bottom of the solar panel. If your pump swings around or dangles on the wire when you lift up the lily then the tube is not connected. The pump will not be able to push the water up through the panel if the tube is not connected.
PUMP COVER WITH FILTER (for pump made in China)
Hold the pump so you can read the black label on the side. The left half of the pump has slits all around it. This end of the pump is the pump cover and it has a spongy filter inside of it. You can pull this end straight off. Do not try to twist it off. Once it’s off, remove the filter from the cover. Rinse the filter out and clean the slits on the cover. Rinse the filter regularly so that it does not become dirty enough to restrict the water flow. If you are missing the pump cover then you need to order replacement parts.
IMPELLER COVER (for pump made in China)
Underneath the pump cover is a piece with 3 prongs coming out of it, a hole in the middle and a spout at the top. This piece is the impeller cover. Through the hole in the center you can see the white impeller. Turn the cover clockwise from the 12 o’clock position to the 2 o’clock position and when the tabs on the pump body line up with the grooves on the cover it will come off. Do not try to pull the cover off without turning it first or you will break one of the tabs on the pump body off. Clean the inside of the impeller cover to make sure there is no sediment or scale build-up inside that would restrict the impeller from turning properly. If you are missing the impeller cover then you need to order replacement parts.
IMPELLER (for pump made in China)
Underneath the pump cover and the impeller cover is a white magnetic impeller with four fins that spins on a silver metal pin. The pin is fixed and does not turn. Remove the magnetic impeller by pinching one of the fins and pulling it straight off. If the fins on the impeller do not appear to be white then it is not clean. Make sure the impeller is clean and that there is no sediment or scale build-up on it that would restrict it from turning easily. If you are missing the impeller then you need to order replacement parts.
MANUAL START (universal)
If the impeller does not turn on its own, try manually starting the pump. To do so, take the pump and solar panel outside and make sure the connection is correct. The pump does not have to be in water for a manual start. Hold it up in the air and while facing the solar panel toward direct sunlight, turn the impeller clock-wise with your finger. Please note that attempting to try a manual start outside when it’s cloudy or indoors by holding the solar panel under a light in your house will not work. You must be outside in direct sunlight, not behind a window or screen.
AIR (for SunJet 150 with pump made in China)
If the motor runs and the impeller spins on its own then re-attach the impeller cover and the pump cover. Place the pump back into the fountain and submerge it in the water. Make sure that the water level in your fountain is at least 1 ¼” (3 cm) minimum. If the water is any lower than that the pump may suck up some air. It may take a few minutes in direct sunlight before all the air is expelled and water begins to spray up through the pump. Don’t pour water down the tube to ‘help get the air out’ as this will only make it harder for the pump impeller to spin in the right direction.
Solar Sunjet 290-M
• SunJet 290 - What do the settings on the solar panel switches mean?
This information applies to the SunJet 290-M and 290-B. Please note that we re-designed the solar panel battery station for this product and there are 2 different versions. There is a set of instructions for each listed below:
VERSION 1:
To run the unit on solar power only:
The ‘I/O’ switch must be set to ‘I’ and the ‘sun (or) moon/cloud’ switch must be set to the ‘sun’. The solar panel must then be placed in direct sunlight to operate.
To run the unit on battery power only:
The ‘I/O’ switch must be set to ‘I’ and the ‘sun (or) moon/cloud’ switch must be set to the ‘moon/cloud’. The solar panel must then be placed in direct sunlight to operate. Press the ‘Hour’ button. The unit will run for 4 hours and does not completely train the battery. If done during night time the LED will automatically illuminate.
To run the unit on both solar power & battery on a partly cloudy day:
The ‘I/O’ switch must be set to ‘I’ and the ‘sun (or) moon/cloud’ switch must be set to the ‘cloud’.
To charge the battery only:
The ‘I/O’ switch must be set to ‘O’. It does not matter what setting the other switch is on. The batteries should be fully charged after 2-3 days of direct sunlight.
VERSION 2:
To run the unit on solar power only:
The ‘P/B’ switch must be set to ‘P’ and the ‘sun (or) moon/cloud’ switch must be set to the ‘sun’. The solar panel must then be placed in direct sunlight to operate.
To run the unit on battery power only:
The ‘P/B’ switch must be set to ‘P’ and the ‘sun (or) moon/cloud’ switch must be set to the ‘moon/cloud’. The solar panel must then be placed in direct sunlight to operate. Press the ‘Timer’ button. The unit will run for 4 hours and does not completely train the battery. If done during night time the LED will automatically illuminate.
To run the unit on both solar power & battery if it’s cloudy:
The ‘P/B’ switch must be set to ‘P’ and the ‘sun (or) moon/cloud’ switch must be set to the ‘cloud’.
To charge the battery only:
The ‘P/B’ switch must be set to ‘B’. It does not matter what setting the other switch is on. The batteries should be fully charged after 2-3 days of direct sunlight.
VERSION 1:
To run the unit on solar power only:
The ‘I/O’ switch must be set to ‘I’ and the ‘sun (or) moon/cloud’ switch must be set to the ‘sun’. The solar panel must then be placed in direct sunlight to operate.
To run the unit on battery power only:
The ‘I/O’ switch must be set to ‘I’ and the ‘sun (or) moon/cloud’ switch must be set to the ‘moon/cloud’. The solar panel must then be placed in direct sunlight to operate. Press the ‘Hour’ button. The unit will run for 4 hours and does not completely train the battery. If done during night time the LED will automatically illuminate.
To run the unit on both solar power & battery on a partly cloudy day:
The ‘I/O’ switch must be set to ‘I’ and the ‘sun (or) moon/cloud’ switch must be set to the ‘cloud’.
To charge the battery only:
The ‘I/O’ switch must be set to ‘O’. It does not matter what setting the other switch is on. The batteries should be fully charged after 2-3 days of direct sunlight.
VERSION 2:
To run the unit on solar power only:
The ‘P/B’ switch must be set to ‘P’ and the ‘sun (or) moon/cloud’ switch must be set to the ‘sun’. The solar panel must then be placed in direct sunlight to operate.
To run the unit on battery power only:
The ‘P/B’ switch must be set to ‘P’ and the ‘sun (or) moon/cloud’ switch must be set to the ‘moon/cloud’. The solar panel must then be placed in direct sunlight to operate. Press the ‘Timer’ button. The unit will run for 4 hours and does not completely train the battery. If done during night time the LED will automatically illuminate.
To run the unit on both solar power & battery if it’s cloudy:
The ‘P/B’ switch must be set to ‘P’ and the ‘sun (or) moon/cloud’ switch must be set to the ‘cloud’.
To charge the battery only:
The ‘P/B’ switch must be set to ‘B’. It does not matter what setting the other switch is on. The batteries should be fully charged after 2-3 days of direct sunlight.
• SunJet 290 - My pump stops running when it’s cloudy. What do I do?
If the pump stops running when a cloudy passes, it means the switches on the solar panel are not on the correct settings, or the batteries are flat and need to be recharged. See the answer to “What do the settings on the solar panel switches mean?” for more information.
• SunJet 290 - The light doesn’t come on at night. What do I do?
Either the batteries are flat and need to be charged, or another light source shining on the solar panel. That would simulate daylight and interfere with the light sensor which would prevent the solar panel from telling the LED to turn on at night. Make sure the batteries are charged and the solar panel is located in an area that does not receive light from any other sources at night.
Solar Sunjet 380
Solar Sunjet 450 and 900
• SunJet 450, 900 - How do I get my pump apart to clean it?
Please review the troubleshooting information below:
PUMP COVER WITH FILTER (for SunJet 450 & 900)
To remove the pump cover housing hold the pump so the spout is pointing up, grasp the bottom of the pump between the tabs, and lift each of the tabs around the edge one at a time. Once you unlock all four tabs, you can lift the housing straight up off the pump. Clean the slit in the pump cover and the spongy filter inside to ensure that there are no blockages and sufficient water can flow to the pump motor.
IMPELLER COVER (for SunJet 450 & 900)
On the side of the motor there is a spout at the top and a hole in the side. Through the hole you will be able to see a silver pin and the impeller. This side of the pump is removable. Remove the impeller cover and spout by sliding it straight up and off the motor in the same direction that the pump housing cover came off. If you have difficulty grasping it with your hand, try prying it up from underneath with a flat-head screwdriver.
IMPELLER (for SunJet 450 & 900)
Once the side of the pump with the spout has been removed you can see the entire impeller, which looks like a fan with 6 fins and spins on a silver metal pin. The silver axle is not fixed and does turn in order to turn the impeller. Using a pair of pliers, pinch on of the fins on the impeller and pull it straight off to remove it. Make sure there is no sediment or scale build-up on the pump housing behind the impeller that would prevent it from turning properly. Clean both sides of the impeller. When you re-attach it make sure that the fins on the impeller are facing you.
PUMP COVER WITH FILTER (for SunJet 450 & 900)
To remove the pump cover housing hold the pump so the spout is pointing up, grasp the bottom of the pump between the tabs, and lift each of the tabs around the edge one at a time. Once you unlock all four tabs, you can lift the housing straight up off the pump. Clean the slit in the pump cover and the spongy filter inside to ensure that there are no blockages and sufficient water can flow to the pump motor.
IMPELLER COVER (for SunJet 450 & 900)
On the side of the motor there is a spout at the top and a hole in the side. Through the hole you will be able to see a silver pin and the impeller. This side of the pump is removable. Remove the impeller cover and spout by sliding it straight up and off the motor in the same direction that the pump housing cover came off. If you have difficulty grasping it with your hand, try prying it up from underneath with a flat-head screwdriver.
IMPELLER (for SunJet 450 & 900)
Once the side of the pump with the spout has been removed you can see the entire impeller, which looks like a fan with 6 fins and spins on a silver metal pin. The silver axle is not fixed and does turn in order to turn the impeller. Using a pair of pliers, pinch on of the fins on the impeller and pull it straight off to remove it. Make sure there is no sediment or scale build-up on the pump housing behind the impeller that would prevent it from turning properly. Clean both sides of the impeller. When you re-attach it make sure that the fins on the impeller are facing you.
• SunJet 450, 900 - My pump runs quietly but doesn’t pump. What do I do?
Please review the troubleshooting information below:
OPTIMUM CONDITIONS & ORIENTATION (for standard external panels)
The solar panel needs to be placed outside in direct sunlight, not indoors behind a window or screen which will filter the light, and not under artificial lighting (i.e. fluorescent or halogen) which will not make it work. Chose a suitable outdoor location where there are no trees that will filter the sunlight. Even the smallest amount of shading reduces panel’s output significantly. Since we are in the northern hemisphere we recommend facing the panel south and tilting it at an angle.
The weather needs to be clear, not hazy or partly cloudy. Just because it’s hot outside and the panel is hot when you touch it does not mean the fountain should be working. Most people assume that the hotter it is outside the better the fountain will work. This is a common misconception, because even though the amount of energy produced by a solar panel is proportional to the strength of the sunlight it receives (based on season), contrary to what you may expect, the higher the temperature of the solar panel the more its output actually decreases, not increases! Generally, temperatures around 68°F or 20°C (room temp) are ideal. You will see the best results in the spring and summer months when the hours between sunrise and sunset are the longest, and in the middle of the day when the sun is directly overhead. Sunlight in the early morning and late afternoon on a nice day (even though it’s bright) may not be strong enough to fully power the pump because the sun is at a low angle. Sunlight throughout the entire day during the late autumn and winter may not be strong enough to fully power the pump.
The panel does not need time to charge before it works and it does not have a built-in battery pack so it will not store any energy. It operates in direct sunlight only.
SOLAR PANEL (for amorphous panel made in Thailand)
The glass on the solar panel needs to be cleaned regularly with a glass cleaner to prevent it from developing any algae, dirt or hard water scale build up that would potentially filter or block the sunlight that the solar panel needs to be able to absorb to power the pump. Once it’s clean the glass should be smooth to the touch, however you may still see some water stains. Make sure that the solar panel has no cracks in the glass. If the panel has any cracks then it needs to be replaced. Hold the panel in the sun, look through the glass, and check for any silver spots or subtle red blotchy areas inside the panel. This would be signs that water has gotten past the seal around the edge and inside the panel. If the panel has this type of discoloration then it needs to be replaced. However, if there’s just a faded area that is an even strip across the whole panel then that is normal and the panel is ok. Look at the underside of the solar panel where the wire is connected to it. Gently flex it back and forth and make sure that there are no breaks in the wire and it has not come away from the panel. If you can see a white or yellow wire exposed then the panel needs to be replaced. If the panel is clean, has no cracks, no discoloration, and no breaks in the wire then it should be functional.
SOLAR PANEL (for polycrystalline panel)
The glass on the solar panel needs to be cleaned regularly with a glass cleaner to prevent it from developing any algae, dirt or scale build up that would potentially filter or block the sunlight that the solar panel needs to be able to absorb to power the pump. Once it’s clean the glass should be smooth to the touch. Make sure that the solar panel has no cracks in the glass. Look through the glass and check for any bubbles inside the panel. The solar cells inside a polycrystalline panel are shiny fragments and have different shades of blue at different angles. If there is a bubble under the glass and it does not reach the strips of cells then the panel should be ok. If the panel has any cracks or internal water damage spots then it needs to be replaced. Look at the underside of the solar panel where the wire is connected to it. Gently flex it back and forth and make sure that there are no breaks in the wire and it has not come away from the panel. If you can see a white or yellow wire exposed, a crack in the glass then you need to order a replacement. If the panel is clean and does not have any cracks then it should be functional.
PUMP COVER WITH FILTER (for SunJet 450 & 900)
To remove the pump cover housing hold the pump so the spout is pointing up, grasp the bottom of the pump between the tabs, and lift each of the tabs around the edge one at a time. Once you unlock all four tabs, you can lift the housing straight up off the pump. Clean the slit in the pump cover and the spongy filter inside to ensure that there are no blockages and sufficient water can flow to the pump motor.
IMPELLER COVER (for SunJet 450 & 900)
On the side of the motor there is a spout at the top and a hole in the side. Through the hole you will be able to see a silver pin and the impeller. This side of the pump is removable. Remove the impeller cover and spout by sliding it straight up and off the motor in the same direction that the pump housing cover came off. If you have difficulty grasping it with your hand, try prying it up from underneath with a flat-head screwdriver.
IMPELLER (for SunJet 450 & 900)
Once the side of the pump with the spout has been removed you can see the entire impeller, which looks like a fan with 6 fins and spins on a silver metal pin. The silver axle is not fixed and does turn in order to turn the impeller. Using a pair of pliers, pinch on of the fins on the impeller and pull it straight off to remove it. Make sure there is no sediment or scale build-up on the pump housing behind the impeller that would prevent it from turning properly. Clean both sides of the impeller. When you re-attach it make sure that the fins on the impeller are facing you.
AIR (for SunJet 450 & 900)
To get the air out, hold the entire pump and spout underwater while the pump is running. You should see some bubbles. When you don’t see any more bubbles, raise the tube of the pump up above the surface of the water and the pump should now be pushing water up out of the tube. Don’t pour water down the tube to ‘help get the air out’ as this will only make it harder for the pump impeller to spin in the right direction.
OPTIMUM CONDITIONS & ORIENTATION (for standard external panels)
The solar panel needs to be placed outside in direct sunlight, not indoors behind a window or screen which will filter the light, and not under artificial lighting (i.e. fluorescent or halogen) which will not make it work. Chose a suitable outdoor location where there are no trees that will filter the sunlight. Even the smallest amount of shading reduces panel’s output significantly. Since we are in the northern hemisphere we recommend facing the panel south and tilting it at an angle.
The weather needs to be clear, not hazy or partly cloudy. Just because it’s hot outside and the panel is hot when you touch it does not mean the fountain should be working. Most people assume that the hotter it is outside the better the fountain will work. This is a common misconception, because even though the amount of energy produced by a solar panel is proportional to the strength of the sunlight it receives (based on season), contrary to what you may expect, the higher the temperature of the solar panel the more its output actually decreases, not increases! Generally, temperatures around 68°F or 20°C (room temp) are ideal. You will see the best results in the spring and summer months when the hours between sunrise and sunset are the longest, and in the middle of the day when the sun is directly overhead. Sunlight in the early morning and late afternoon on a nice day (even though it’s bright) may not be strong enough to fully power the pump because the sun is at a low angle. Sunlight throughout the entire day during the late autumn and winter may not be strong enough to fully power the pump.
The panel does not need time to charge before it works and it does not have a built-in battery pack so it will not store any energy. It operates in direct sunlight only.
SOLAR PANEL (for amorphous panel made in Thailand)
The glass on the solar panel needs to be cleaned regularly with a glass cleaner to prevent it from developing any algae, dirt or hard water scale build up that would potentially filter or block the sunlight that the solar panel needs to be able to absorb to power the pump. Once it’s clean the glass should be smooth to the touch, however you may still see some water stains. Make sure that the solar panel has no cracks in the glass. If the panel has any cracks then it needs to be replaced. Hold the panel in the sun, look through the glass, and check for any silver spots or subtle red blotchy areas inside the panel. This would be signs that water has gotten past the seal around the edge and inside the panel. If the panel has this type of discoloration then it needs to be replaced. However, if there’s just a faded area that is an even strip across the whole panel then that is normal and the panel is ok. Look at the underside of the solar panel where the wire is connected to it. Gently flex it back and forth and make sure that there are no breaks in the wire and it has not come away from the panel. If you can see a white or yellow wire exposed then the panel needs to be replaced. If the panel is clean, has no cracks, no discoloration, and no breaks in the wire then it should be functional.
SOLAR PANEL (for polycrystalline panel)
The glass on the solar panel needs to be cleaned regularly with a glass cleaner to prevent it from developing any algae, dirt or scale build up that would potentially filter or block the sunlight that the solar panel needs to be able to absorb to power the pump. Once it’s clean the glass should be smooth to the touch. Make sure that the solar panel has no cracks in the glass. Look through the glass and check for any bubbles inside the panel. The solar cells inside a polycrystalline panel are shiny fragments and have different shades of blue at different angles. If there is a bubble under the glass and it does not reach the strips of cells then the panel should be ok. If the panel has any cracks or internal water damage spots then it needs to be replaced. Look at the underside of the solar panel where the wire is connected to it. Gently flex it back and forth and make sure that there are no breaks in the wire and it has not come away from the panel. If you can see a white or yellow wire exposed, a crack in the glass then you need to order a replacement. If the panel is clean and does not have any cracks then it should be functional.
PUMP COVER WITH FILTER (for SunJet 450 & 900)
To remove the pump cover housing hold the pump so the spout is pointing up, grasp the bottom of the pump between the tabs, and lift each of the tabs around the edge one at a time. Once you unlock all four tabs, you can lift the housing straight up off the pump. Clean the slit in the pump cover and the spongy filter inside to ensure that there are no blockages and sufficient water can flow to the pump motor.
IMPELLER COVER (for SunJet 450 & 900)
On the side of the motor there is a spout at the top and a hole in the side. Through the hole you will be able to see a silver pin and the impeller. This side of the pump is removable. Remove the impeller cover and spout by sliding it straight up and off the motor in the same direction that the pump housing cover came off. If you have difficulty grasping it with your hand, try prying it up from underneath with a flat-head screwdriver.
IMPELLER (for SunJet 450 & 900)
Once the side of the pump with the spout has been removed you can see the entire impeller, which looks like a fan with 6 fins and spins on a silver metal pin. The silver axle is not fixed and does turn in order to turn the impeller. Using a pair of pliers, pinch on of the fins on the impeller and pull it straight off to remove it. Make sure there is no sediment or scale build-up on the pump housing behind the impeller that would prevent it from turning properly. Clean both sides of the impeller. When you re-attach it make sure that the fins on the impeller are facing you.
AIR (for SunJet 450 & 900)
To get the air out, hold the entire pump and spout underwater while the pump is running. You should see some bubbles. When you don’t see any more bubbles, raise the tube of the pump up above the surface of the water and the pump should now be pushing water up out of the tube. Don’t pour water down the tube to ‘help get the air out’ as this will only make it harder for the pump impeller to spin in the right direction.
• SunJet 450, 900 - My pump isn’t running at all. What do I do?
Please review the troubleshooting information below:
OPTIMUM CONDITIONS & ORIENTATION (for standard external panels)
The solar panel needs to be placed outside in direct sunlight, not indoors behind a window or screen which will filter the light, and not under artificial lighting (i.e. fluorescent or halogen) which will not make it work. Chose a suitable outdoor location where there are no trees that will filter the sunlight. Even the smallest amount of shading reduces panel’s output significantly. Since we are in the northern hemisphere we recommend facing the panel south and tilting it at an angle.
The weather needs to be clear, not hazy or partly cloudy. Just because it’s hot outside and the panel is hot when you touch it does not mean the fountain should be working. Most people assume that the hotter it is outside the better the fountain will work. This is a common misconception, because even though the amount of energy produced by a solar panel is proportional to the strength of the sunlight it receives (based on season), contrary to what you may expect, the higher the temperature of the solar panel the more its output actually decreases, not increases! Generally, temperatures around 68°F or 20°C (room temp) are ideal. You will see the best results in the spring and summer months when the hours between sunrise and sunset are the longest, and in the middle of the day when the sun is directly overhead. Sunlight in the early morning and late afternoon on a nice day (even though it’s bright) may not be strong enough to fully power the pump because the sun is at a low angle. Sunlight throughout the entire day during the late autumn and winter may not be strong enough to fully power the pump.
The panel does not need time to charge before it works and it does not have a built-in battery pack so it will not store any energy. It operates in direct sunlight only.
SOLAR PANEL (for amorphous panel made in Thailand)
The glass on the solar panel needs to be cleaned regularly with a glass cleaner to prevent it from developing any algae, dirt or hard water scale build up that would potentially filter or block the sunlight that the solar panel needs to be able to absorb to power the pump. Once it’s clean the glass should be smooth to the touch, however you may still see some water stains. Make sure that the solar panel has no cracks in the glass. If the panel has any cracks then it needs to be replaced. Hold the panel in the sun, look through the glass, and check for any silver spots or subtle red blotchy areas inside the panel. This would be signs that water has gotten past the seal around the edge and inside the panel. If the panel has this type of discoloration then it needs to be replaced. However, if there’s just a faded area that is an even strip across the whole panel then that is normal and the panel is ok. Look at the underside of the solar panel where the wire is connected to it. Gently flex it back and forth and make sure that there are no breaks in the wire and it has not come away from the panel. If you can see a white or yellow wire exposed then the panel needs to be replaced. If the panel is clean, has no cracks, no discoloration, and no breaks in the wire then it should be functional.
SOLAR PANEL (for polycrystalline panel)
The glass on the solar panel needs to be cleaned regularly with a glass cleaner to prevent it from developing any algae, dirt or scale build up that would potentially filter or block the sunlight that the solar panel needs to be able to absorb to power the pump. Once it’s clean the glass should be smooth to the touch. Make sure that the solar panel has no cracks in the glass. Look through the glass and check for any bubbles inside the panel. The solar cells inside a polycrystalline panel are shiny fragments and have different shades of blue at different angles. If there is a bubble under the glass and it does not reach the strips of cells then the panel should be ok. If the panel has any cracks or internal water damage spots then it needs to be replaced. Look at the underside of the solar panel where the wire is connected to it. Gently flex it back and forth and make sure that there are no breaks in the wire and it has not come away from the panel. If you can see a white or yellow wire exposed, a crack in the glass then you need to order a replacement. If the panel is clean and does not have any cracks then it should be functional.
CONNECTION (for panel made in Thailand)
Unplug the wire that connects the solar panel to the pump by pulling them apart. Check for any green or white build-up or corrosion on & in the silver plugs. This would be a sign that water got into the connection because it was not water tight. If there is any build-up in the plugs they will need to be cleaned and dried off before re-connecting them. If there is a lot of build up or rust on the silver plugs then the solar panel or pump or both might need to be replaced. Inspect the black or yellow rubber o-ring on the solar panel plug. If the o-ring is cracked or deteriorated then it needs to be replaced. If you are missing the o-ring then you will have an empty groove around the plug and you need to order a replacement. If the o-ring is ok then reconnect the plugs again. Be sure to twist them as you push them together until the entire o-ring on the solar panel plug is covered all the way around and inside the sleeve of the pump plug to ensure a water-tight connection. If you look at the plugs when it’s flat on a table you should not be able to see the o-ring.
PUMP COVER WITH FILTER (for SunJet 450 & 900)
To remove the pump cover housing hold the pump so the spout is pointing up, grasp the bottom of the pump between the tabs, and lift each of the tabs around the edge one at a time. Once you unlock all four tabs, you can lift the housing straight up off the pump. Clean the slit in the pump cover and the spongy filter inside to ensure that there are no blockages and sufficient water can flow to the pump motor.
IMPELLER COVER (for SunJet 450 & 900)
On the side of the motor there is a spout at the top and a hole in the side. Through the hole you will be able to see a silver pin and the impeller. This side of the pump is removable. Remove the impeller cover and spout by sliding it straight up and off the motor in the same direction that the pump housing cover came off. If you have difficulty grasping it with your hand, try prying it up from underneath with a flat-head screwdriver.
IMPELLER (for SunJet 450 & 900)
Once the side of the pump with the spout has been removed you can see the entire impeller, which looks like a fan with 6 fins and spins on a silver metal pin. The silver axle is not fixed and does turn in order to turn the impeller. Using a pair of pliers, pinch on of the fins on the impeller and pull it straight off to remove it. Make sure there is no sediment or scale build-up on the pump housing behind the impeller that would prevent it from turning properly. Clean both sides of the impeller. When you re-attach it make sure that the fins on the impeller are facing you.
MANUAL START (for SunJet 450 & 900)
If the impeller does not turn on its own, try manually starting the pump. To do so, take the pump and solar panel outside and make sure the connection is correct. The pump does not have to be in water for a manual start. Hold it up in the air and while facing the solar panel toward direct sunlight, turn the impeller COUNTER CLOCK-WISE with your finger. Please note that attempting to try a manual start outside when it’s cloudy or indoors by holding the solar panel under a light in your house will not work. You must be outside in direct sunlight, not behind a window or screen.
OPTIMUM CONDITIONS & ORIENTATION (for standard external panels)
The solar panel needs to be placed outside in direct sunlight, not indoors behind a window or screen which will filter the light, and not under artificial lighting (i.e. fluorescent or halogen) which will not make it work. Chose a suitable outdoor location where there are no trees that will filter the sunlight. Even the smallest amount of shading reduces panel’s output significantly. Since we are in the northern hemisphere we recommend facing the panel south and tilting it at an angle.
The weather needs to be clear, not hazy or partly cloudy. Just because it’s hot outside and the panel is hot when you touch it does not mean the fountain should be working. Most people assume that the hotter it is outside the better the fountain will work. This is a common misconception, because even though the amount of energy produced by a solar panel is proportional to the strength of the sunlight it receives (based on season), contrary to what you may expect, the higher the temperature of the solar panel the more its output actually decreases, not increases! Generally, temperatures around 68°F or 20°C (room temp) are ideal. You will see the best results in the spring and summer months when the hours between sunrise and sunset are the longest, and in the middle of the day when the sun is directly overhead. Sunlight in the early morning and late afternoon on a nice day (even though it’s bright) may not be strong enough to fully power the pump because the sun is at a low angle. Sunlight throughout the entire day during the late autumn and winter may not be strong enough to fully power the pump.
The panel does not need time to charge before it works and it does not have a built-in battery pack so it will not store any energy. It operates in direct sunlight only.
SOLAR PANEL (for amorphous panel made in Thailand)
The glass on the solar panel needs to be cleaned regularly with a glass cleaner to prevent it from developing any algae, dirt or hard water scale build up that would potentially filter or block the sunlight that the solar panel needs to be able to absorb to power the pump. Once it’s clean the glass should be smooth to the touch, however you may still see some water stains. Make sure that the solar panel has no cracks in the glass. If the panel has any cracks then it needs to be replaced. Hold the panel in the sun, look through the glass, and check for any silver spots or subtle red blotchy areas inside the panel. This would be signs that water has gotten past the seal around the edge and inside the panel. If the panel has this type of discoloration then it needs to be replaced. However, if there’s just a faded area that is an even strip across the whole panel then that is normal and the panel is ok. Look at the underside of the solar panel where the wire is connected to it. Gently flex it back and forth and make sure that there are no breaks in the wire and it has not come away from the panel. If you can see a white or yellow wire exposed then the panel needs to be replaced. If the panel is clean, has no cracks, no discoloration, and no breaks in the wire then it should be functional.
SOLAR PANEL (for polycrystalline panel)
The glass on the solar panel needs to be cleaned regularly with a glass cleaner to prevent it from developing any algae, dirt or scale build up that would potentially filter or block the sunlight that the solar panel needs to be able to absorb to power the pump. Once it’s clean the glass should be smooth to the touch. Make sure that the solar panel has no cracks in the glass. Look through the glass and check for any bubbles inside the panel. The solar cells inside a polycrystalline panel are shiny fragments and have different shades of blue at different angles. If there is a bubble under the glass and it does not reach the strips of cells then the panel should be ok. If the panel has any cracks or internal water damage spots then it needs to be replaced. Look at the underside of the solar panel where the wire is connected to it. Gently flex it back and forth and make sure that there are no breaks in the wire and it has not come away from the panel. If you can see a white or yellow wire exposed, a crack in the glass then you need to order a replacement. If the panel is clean and does not have any cracks then it should be functional.
CONNECTION (for panel made in Thailand)
Unplug the wire that connects the solar panel to the pump by pulling them apart. Check for any green or white build-up or corrosion on & in the silver plugs. This would be a sign that water got into the connection because it was not water tight. If there is any build-up in the plugs they will need to be cleaned and dried off before re-connecting them. If there is a lot of build up or rust on the silver plugs then the solar panel or pump or both might need to be replaced. Inspect the black or yellow rubber o-ring on the solar panel plug. If the o-ring is cracked or deteriorated then it needs to be replaced. If you are missing the o-ring then you will have an empty groove around the plug and you need to order a replacement. If the o-ring is ok then reconnect the plugs again. Be sure to twist them as you push them together until the entire o-ring on the solar panel plug is covered all the way around and inside the sleeve of the pump plug to ensure a water-tight connection. If you look at the plugs when it’s flat on a table you should not be able to see the o-ring.
PUMP COVER WITH FILTER (for SunJet 450 & 900)
To remove the pump cover housing hold the pump so the spout is pointing up, grasp the bottom of the pump between the tabs, and lift each of the tabs around the edge one at a time. Once you unlock all four tabs, you can lift the housing straight up off the pump. Clean the slit in the pump cover and the spongy filter inside to ensure that there are no blockages and sufficient water can flow to the pump motor.
IMPELLER COVER (for SunJet 450 & 900)
On the side of the motor there is a spout at the top and a hole in the side. Through the hole you will be able to see a silver pin and the impeller. This side of the pump is removable. Remove the impeller cover and spout by sliding it straight up and off the motor in the same direction that the pump housing cover came off. If you have difficulty grasping it with your hand, try prying it up from underneath with a flat-head screwdriver.
IMPELLER (for SunJet 450 & 900)
Once the side of the pump with the spout has been removed you can see the entire impeller, which looks like a fan with 6 fins and spins on a silver metal pin. The silver axle is not fixed and does turn in order to turn the impeller. Using a pair of pliers, pinch on of the fins on the impeller and pull it straight off to remove it. Make sure there is no sediment or scale build-up on the pump housing behind the impeller that would prevent it from turning properly. Clean both sides of the impeller. When you re-attach it make sure that the fins on the impeller are facing you.
MANUAL START (for SunJet 450 & 900)
If the impeller does not turn on its own, try manually starting the pump. To do so, take the pump and solar panel outside and make sure the connection is correct. The pump does not have to be in water for a manual start. Hold it up in the air and while facing the solar panel toward direct sunlight, turn the impeller COUNTER CLOCK-WISE with your finger. Please note that attempting to try a manual start outside when it’s cloudy or indoors by holding the solar panel under a light in your house will not work. You must be outside in direct sunlight, not behind a window or screen.
WATER FOUNTAINS (Solar & Electric)
• What do the (T) and (C) after some questions mean?
The (T) and (C) at the end of each question refer to either Thailand or China. Originally our solar panels and pumps were manufactured in Thailand until the end of 2008. In 2009, we re-designed the parts, made improvements, and moved our manufacturing to China. Since we have two versions of the same parts for some products we need to list some of the same questions twice in order to give you a set of troubleshooting instructions that accurately pertains to the version that you own.
• If your solar birdbath fountain isn’t working please try a “manual start” (standard solar)
Click here to see step by step instructions with pictures. (C)
Before trying to manually start your pump make sure you have cleaned the pump and panel accordingly.
If you haven’t then please refer to your instruction manual or the question “How do I clean my pump and panel?”
NOTE: This set of instructions is for a standard pump & solar panel (meaning it does NOT have a battery or on/off switch) and are both made in China (new version).
• If your solar birdbath fountain isn’t working please try a “manual start” (solar-on-demand)
Click here to see step by step instructions with pictures. (C)
NOTE: This set of instructions is for a solar-on-demand pump & solar panel (with a battery & on/off switch) and are both made in China (new version).
*COMING SOON*
*COMING SOON*
All Fountains (Solar & Electric)
• Can I leave my fountain outside in the winter?
No. You should empty the fountain of all water, dry it off, and store the entire product indoors in a dry and frost proof environment during the winter. This applies to anyone who lives in a region of the country that has a climate with temperatures reaching freezing at night during the winter. We recommend you remove the fountain from outdoors once you have temperatures that fall to about 40°F (5°C) at night to avoid any issues if the temp happens to drops below 32°F (0°C) without you knowing and then the water freezes and expands causing cracks. Simply emptying the water out of the fountain and covering it for the winter is not considered proper winter storage and damage will not be covered under warranty. If you live in a region of the country where the temps during the winter never reach freezing at night then this does not apply to you and you can enjoy your fountain all year round.
• Can I leave my fountain outside in the winter if I put a heater in it so the water doesn't freeze?
No. We do not recommend leaving the fountain outside during the winter even if you use a heater in it that prevents the water from freezing because the whole product is still exposed to freezing temps, snow, and ice. If you choose to do so, any issues that you have will not be covered under warranty.
• What kind of maintenance is required for your fountains?
The amount of time between necessary cleaning intervals for a fountain depends on many factors such as whether you use the fountain indoors or outdoors, your climate, whether or not you have hard water in your area, if you use distilled or filtered water, if you use water softeners or algae preventatives, if debris such as leaves falls into it, and if animals and birds use the fountain.
Here are some typical maintenance instructions for our solar fountains:
-Remove the pump and solar panel from the water feature.
-Empty the water out.
-Use a mild soap with warm water and gently wash away any dirt and sediment from the resin / ceramic / terra cotta parts using a cloth or soft-bristle brush. Do not use any harsh chemicals, such as bleach, or any hard wire bristle brushes to avoid damaging the finish. Once the fountain is clean make sure you rinse it thoroughly to remove any soap residue.
-Clean the solar panel with a glass cleaner such as Windex to remove dirt and algae or with C.L.R. / Lime-A-Way to remove hard water build up and stains.
-Remove the pump cover with filter, the impeller cover, and the impeller from the pump. Clean all the pieces and rinse the filter. Flush out the tube to make sure it’s not blocked with any debris. Unplug the wire between the pump to the panel and wipe off the silver connectors. Inspect the o-ring on the plug to make sure it’s doesn’t need replacing.
-Re-assemble the pump, panel, any necessary tubes for your product, and plug the wires together so the red o-ring is covered.
-Fill the fountain up with clean water. To help keep your fountain cleaner for extended periods of time we suggest using our highly recommended Fountain Fresh. It’s a non-toxic water clarifier with all-natural enzymes in powder form that prevents algae from developing and mosquitoes from laying eggs. It can be purchased through many of our retailers or from us directly.
Here are some typical maintenance instructions for our solar fountains:
-Remove the pump and solar panel from the water feature.
-Empty the water out.
-Use a mild soap with warm water and gently wash away any dirt and sediment from the resin / ceramic / terra cotta parts using a cloth or soft-bristle brush. Do not use any harsh chemicals, such as bleach, or any hard wire bristle brushes to avoid damaging the finish. Once the fountain is clean make sure you rinse it thoroughly to remove any soap residue.
-Clean the solar panel with a glass cleaner such as Windex to remove dirt and algae or with C.L.R. / Lime-A-Way to remove hard water build up and stains.
-Remove the pump cover with filter, the impeller cover, and the impeller from the pump. Clean all the pieces and rinse the filter. Flush out the tube to make sure it’s not blocked with any debris. Unplug the wire between the pump to the panel and wipe off the silver connectors. Inspect the o-ring on the plug to make sure it’s doesn’t need replacing.
-Re-assemble the pump, panel, any necessary tubes for your product, and plug the wires together so the red o-ring is covered.
-Fill the fountain up with clean water. To help keep your fountain cleaner for extended periods of time we suggest using our highly recommended Fountain Fresh. It’s a non-toxic water clarifier with all-natural enzymes in powder form that prevents algae from developing and mosquitoes from laying eggs. It can be purchased through many of our retailers or from us directly.
• What can I do to help keep the water clean longer in my fountain?
If you have hard water in your area we recommend that you use distilled water instead of tap water, to prevent lime scale build-up. This is merely a suggestion and not a requirement. We realize that this could be a costly solution. As an alternative you could also use rain water. We recommend using a water treatment that kills algae in order to keep the water cleaner for longer periods of time. Do not add live plants or fish to your water feature as this will cause the pump to get clogged up very fast. Do not add bleach to the water or use bleach when cleaning your product as this will deteriorate the pump filter and affect the finish of the fountain by causing it to discolor or fade.
To help keep your fountain cleaner for extended periods of time we suggest using our highly recommended Fountain Fresh. It’s a non-toxic water clarifier with all-natural enzymes in powder form that prevents algae from developing in the water and mosquitoes from laying eggs on the water surface. It can be purchased from many of our retailers or from Smart Solar directly by going to the “Replacement Parts” section of our site on the left and then clicking on “Miscellaneous Parts”.
To help keep your fountain cleaner for extended periods of time we suggest using our highly recommended Fountain Fresh. It’s a non-toxic water clarifier with all-natural enzymes in powder form that prevents algae from developing in the water and mosquitoes from laying eggs on the water surface. It can be purchased from many of our retailers or from Smart Solar directly by going to the “Replacement Parts” section of our site on the left and then clicking on “Miscellaneous Parts”.
• Can I put stones, plants, or fish in my fountain?
If you would like to add stones, such as river rocks, or fake plants to decorate your fountain or hide the pump that’s fine. However, we do not recommend having real plants or fish in your water feature. Dirt from the plants, dropping from the fish, and decaying fish food that was not eaten will all cause the filter to become dirty very quickly and the pump to get clogged up. If the impeller is restricted from spinning freely and is left running while clogged up then the pump could burn out and you will be required to purchase a replacement.
• What can I use to paint my fountain?
If you want to paint your fountain you can use an enamel-based outdoor paint or Rust-Oleum, which offers products for a variety of surfaces including fiberglass, glass, metal, plastic, etc. However, please note that any unauthorized modification to your fountain will void the warranty for that part.
• I own a fountain already and want to use a pump in it. Can you help me?
If you have your own water feature already and would like to use a solar or electric pump in it, we can help. Please see the list of questions below to help us determine if we make a product that is adequate for your needs and be able to recommend one which would be most suitable for your application:
How high do you want to pump the water up vertically?
Do you want to pump the water horizontally too? If so, how far?
Do you want the water to spray up out of the fountain or re-circulate in it?
Do you want the pump to be fully submerged or in-line?
Do you want the pump to be deep or sit just below the water surface?
What is the size limit of a pump in order for it to fit into your water feature?
Do you want to run the fountain with a solar pump or electric pump?
If solar, do you want both the pump and solar panel in the fountain?
If not, how far away from the fountain do you want to put the solar panel?
Do you want it to have a battery back-up so it can store energy?
Do you want to run it 24 hrs per day? If so, then you need an electric pump.
How high do you want to pump the water up vertically?
Do you want to pump the water horizontally too? If so, how far?
Do you want the water to spray up out of the fountain or re-circulate in it?
Do you want the pump to be fully submerged or in-line?
Do you want the pump to be deep or sit just below the water surface?
What is the size limit of a pump in order for it to fit into your water feature?
Do you want to run the fountain with a solar pump or electric pump?
If solar, do you want both the pump and solar panel in the fountain?
If not, how far away from the fountain do you want to put the solar panel?
Do you want it to have a battery back-up so it can store energy?
Do you want to run it 24 hrs per day? If so, then you need an electric pump.
All Electric Fountains
• How do I take my electric pump apart to clean it? (SP series)
This applies to the following products: SP-75, SP-130, SP-160
Hold the pump so that you are looking at the front cover with the yellow /green / blue flow adjustment dial on the front and suction cups on the bottom. Firmly pull the front cover towards you to slide it off the pump. Do not pull by the suction cups on the bottom or you could pull them off. Remove the yellow / green / blue impeller cover by simply pulling it off. Remove the white magnetic impeller by pinching one of the fins and pulling it out. It is not necessary to remove the silver impeller axle / shaft. After cleaning, re-assemble in reverse order.
Hold the pump so that you are looking at the front cover with the yellow /green / blue flow adjustment dial on the front and suction cups on the bottom. Firmly pull the front cover towards you to slide it off the pump. Do not pull by the suction cups on the bottom or you could pull them off. Remove the yellow / green / blue impeller cover by simply pulling it off. Remove the white magnetic impeller by pinching one of the fins and pulling it out. It is not necessary to remove the silver impeller axle / shaft. After cleaning, re-assemble in reverse order.
• How do I take my electric pump apart to clean it? (VP series)
This applies to the following products: VP-300, VP-600, VP-1150, VP-1650, VP-2250
Hold the pump so that you are looking at the front cover with the black flow adjustment dial. Firmly pull the front cover towards you to detach it. Remove the filter from the front cover. Remove the black impeller cover by pushing it in toward the pump and rotating it COUNTER clock-wise to unlock and remove it. Remove the black magnetic impeller by pinching one of the fins and pulling it out or remove both the impeller and the shaft by gripping the white impeller axle / shaft and pulling them both at on one piece. After cleaning, re-assemble in reverse order.
Hold the pump so that you are looking at the front cover with the black flow adjustment dial. Firmly pull the front cover towards you to detach it. Remove the filter from the front cover. Remove the black impeller cover by pushing it in toward the pump and rotating it COUNTER clock-wise to unlock and remove it. Remove the black magnetic impeller by pinching one of the fins and pulling it out or remove both the impeller and the shaft by gripping the white impeller axle / shaft and pulling them both at on one piece. After cleaning, re-assemble in reverse order.
• My electric pump runs loudly and doesn’t pump. What do I do?
CLEANING
The most likely cause for this is debris has entered the pump and reached the impeller. Take the pump apart and make sure there is no dirt or debris inside the pump restricting the impeller from turning. If so, remove and clean all parts. Re-assemble in reverse order, and install the pump at the proper depth.
DEPTH
If your pump is being used as a submersible pump, make sure that it is installed at least 6 inches, but not more than 36 inches, below the surface of the water propped up on something such as a cinder block. If the pump is not raised up and it’s sitting on the bottom on your fountain or pond it can easily suck up debris, sand, and small stones which would quickly clog it up, restrict water flow, or damage the impeller.
MISSING PARTS
Make sure you are not missing any pieces, such as the impeller cover. If you are missing any parts please contact customer service.
IMPELLER
The impeller is a wear and tear part. If your pump has become noise and you are not missing any parts and you have taken the pump apart to clean it already then the impeller probably needs replacing.
The most likely cause for this is debris has entered the pump and reached the impeller. Take the pump apart and make sure there is no dirt or debris inside the pump restricting the impeller from turning. If so, remove and clean all parts. Re-assemble in reverse order, and install the pump at the proper depth.
DEPTH
If your pump is being used as a submersible pump, make sure that it is installed at least 6 inches, but not more than 36 inches, below the surface of the water propped up on something such as a cinder block. If the pump is not raised up and it’s sitting on the bottom on your fountain or pond it can easily suck up debris, sand, and small stones which would quickly clog it up, restrict water flow, or damage the impeller.
MISSING PARTS
Make sure you are not missing any pieces, such as the impeller cover. If you are missing any parts please contact customer service.
IMPELLER
The impeller is a wear and tear part. If your pump has become noise and you are not missing any parts and you have taken the pump apart to clean it already then the impeller probably needs replacing.
• My electric pump is not running at all. What do I do?
CIRCUIT BREAKER
Check your circuit breaker to see if a fuse has blown or been tripped. If so, reset the switch on the breaker to restore power.
OUTLET
Be certain that the pump is connected to a properly grounded electric outlet and no water has gotten into the socket. If your plug is lower than where your pump is installed, make sure the cord loops below the electrical outlet to form a ‘drip loop’. If not, the water could run down the cord and into the electrical outlet. Try the pump in another outlet to ensure the pump is getting an electrical current. Disconnect the pump from the electrical outlet before handling the pump to avoid risk of shock.
TEMPERATURE
The pump should not be used in water above 86 degrees F (30 degrees C). Some models are equipped with an internal temperature protector switch that will automatically turn off the pump in the event of overheating. Once the pump has cooled, the unit will restart provided that no irreversible damage has occurred.
If you have let the pump operate in below freezing temperatures the water will freeze up around the pump and this will cause the pump to become inoperable. If so, you will need to purchase a replacement pump.
If your pump has run dry this will damage the impeller and can cause the motor to overheat and burn out the internal electrical coil. If so, you will need to purchase a replacement pump.
WIRING & PLUG
Make sure that the wiring and plug have not been damaged. Inspect the cord carefully for any cracks or breaks in the insulation. Inspect the prongs on the plug and make sure the grounding pin (3rd prong) on the plug is not damaged. If so, you will need to purchase a replacement pump.
MISSING PARTS
Take the pump apart and make sure that you are not missing any pieces. If you do not have the impeller installed then the motor will seem to make no noise or vibration when plugged in. If you are missing any parts, please contact customer service.
CLEANING & IMPELLER
Make sure there is no dirt or debris inside the pump which could restrict the impeller from turning. If so, clean them and re-assemble in reverse order. If the impeller has been damaged you will need to purchase a replacement impeller.
Check your circuit breaker to see if a fuse has blown or been tripped. If so, reset the switch on the breaker to restore power.
OUTLET
Be certain that the pump is connected to a properly grounded electric outlet and no water has gotten into the socket. If your plug is lower than where your pump is installed, make sure the cord loops below the electrical outlet to form a ‘drip loop’. If not, the water could run down the cord and into the electrical outlet. Try the pump in another outlet to ensure the pump is getting an electrical current. Disconnect the pump from the electrical outlet before handling the pump to avoid risk of shock.
TEMPERATURE
The pump should not be used in water above 86 degrees F (30 degrees C). Some models are equipped with an internal temperature protector switch that will automatically turn off the pump in the event of overheating. Once the pump has cooled, the unit will restart provided that no irreversible damage has occurred.
If you have let the pump operate in below freezing temperatures the water will freeze up around the pump and this will cause the pump to become inoperable. If so, you will need to purchase a replacement pump.
If your pump has run dry this will damage the impeller and can cause the motor to overheat and burn out the internal electrical coil. If so, you will need to purchase a replacement pump.
WIRING & PLUG
Make sure that the wiring and plug have not been damaged. Inspect the cord carefully for any cracks or breaks in the insulation. Inspect the prongs on the plug and make sure the grounding pin (3rd prong) on the plug is not damaged. If so, you will need to purchase a replacement pump.
MISSING PARTS
Take the pump apart and make sure that you are not missing any pieces. If you do not have the impeller installed then the motor will seem to make no noise or vibration when plugged in. If you are missing any parts, please contact customer service.
CLEANING & IMPELLER
Make sure there is no dirt or debris inside the pump which could restrict the impeller from turning. If so, clean them and re-assemble in reverse order. If the impeller has been damaged you will need to purchase a replacement impeller.
• Can I use the electric pumps in salt water?
The SP series pumps (SP-75, 130, 160) are suitable for use as submersible pumps in fresh water only because they have a steel impeller axle/shaft. The VP series pumps (VP-300, 600, 1150, 1650, 2250) are suitable for use as either submersible pumps or in-line pumps in either fresh water or salt water because they have a ceramic impeller axle/shaft which will not rust.
Note: They are not suitable for use in swimming pools due to high levels of chlorine.
Note: They are not suitable for use in swimming pools due to high levels of chlorine.
• Do the electric pumps have an ON / OFF switch?
No, to shut the pump off you have to unplug it or use a timer with it.
• Can I convert my electric fountain to work from solar power?
Yes, you can convert most of our electric fountains to run with solar power.
You can substitute your electric pump for a solar pump and solar panel. Since you would need both a pump and panel, you can get a kit which includes both. You have the choice of either getting a pump with a standard solar panel that only works in direct sunlight (Part # 2050PKS) or a pump with a Solar-On-Demand panel with built-in on/off switch and a battery pack that can store power (Part # 2050PKD). Please go to “Replacement Parts” then “Solar Kits” to view and purchase them.
If you are unsure which style fountain you have or would like to know how to convert a different style fountain that is not made by us to run with solar power please ask one of our customer service agents.
You can substitute your electric pump for a solar pump and solar panel. Since you would need both a pump and panel, you can get a kit which includes both. You have the choice of either getting a pump with a standard solar panel that only works in direct sunlight (Part # 2050PKS) or a pump with a Solar-On-Demand panel with built-in on/off switch and a battery pack that can store power (Part # 2050PKD). Please go to “Replacement Parts” then “Solar Kits” to view and purchase them.
If you are unsure which style fountain you have or would like to know how to convert a different style fountain that is not made by us to run with solar power please ask one of our customer service agents.
All Solar Fountains
• How do I get my pump apart to clean it? (T)
This applies to the following solar water features:
Frog, Dove, Cairo, Corsica, Fish, Watering Can, Cascade, Duo Cascade, Urn, Birdbath, 2-Tier
FILTER HOUSING / CASE / SHELL (Part # ‘FHousing’ for pump made in Thailand)
Some of our pumps may have a filter housing case around the entire pump. It is teardrop shaped with rows of small holes all the way around it. It has a ‘Smart Solar’ logo sticker on the front with ‘ABS’ below it and on the back of it, and 3 suction cups on the bottom. This housing needs to be removed in order to access the pump. To open the housing, press down on the ‘PRESS’ arrow on the top of the housing and separate it into 2 halves.
PUMP COVER (Part # ‘pcover’, for pumps made in Thailand)
Hold the pump so you can read the white label. The top of the pump where the wire comes out is sealed. Do not attempt to open the top of the pump. There are 4 vertical bumps around the bottom of the pump that are shaped like arrows that point downward. The line that goes through all the arrows is where it separates. It is not sealed and is removable. This end of the pump is called the pump cover. It’s shaped like a '6' or ‘9’ and may have a spongy filter attached to it. You can pull/pop this end straight off. Do not try to twist it off and do not pull by the filter otherwise you will rip it off. If you have trouble removing the pump cover, try prying it off using your fingernail, a butter knife, or flat-head screwdriver on the triangle of the second arrow from the right which is below the middle of the white label. Once removed, clean the inside of the cover. Rinse the filter regularly so that it does not become dirty enough to restrict the water flow. If you are missing the pump cover then you need to order replacement parts.
IMPELLER (Part # ‘impeller’, for pumps made in Thailand)
Underneath the pump cover is a circular magnetic impeller with two fins that spins on a silver metal pin. The pin is fixed and does not turn. Remove the magnetic impeller with pliers by pinching one of the fins and pulling it straight off or get under it with something flat and lift it off. Make sure the pump housing and impeller are clean and that there is no sediment or scale build-up inside that would restrict it from turning easily. If you are missing the impeller then you need to order replacement parts.
PUMP MOTOR (Part # ‘20020p01’, ‘20500p01’, etc, for pumps made in Thailand)
Once you have removed the pump cover and impeller you will be able to see the whole impeller axle. The pin is fixed and does not turn. Clean down around the pin with a Q-tip. Make sure the pump housing is clean and that there is no sediment or scale build-up inside that would restrict the impeller from turn easily.
Frog, Dove, Cairo, Corsica, Fish, Watering Can, Cascade, Duo Cascade, Urn, Birdbath, 2-Tier
FILTER HOUSING / CASE / SHELL (Part # ‘FHousing’ for pump made in Thailand)
Some of our pumps may have a filter housing case around the entire pump. It is teardrop shaped with rows of small holes all the way around it. It has a ‘Smart Solar’ logo sticker on the front with ‘ABS’ below it and on the back of it, and 3 suction cups on the bottom. This housing needs to be removed in order to access the pump. To open the housing, press down on the ‘PRESS’ arrow on the top of the housing and separate it into 2 halves.
PUMP COVER (Part # ‘pcover’, for pumps made in Thailand)
Hold the pump so you can read the white label. The top of the pump where the wire comes out is sealed. Do not attempt to open the top of the pump. There are 4 vertical bumps around the bottom of the pump that are shaped like arrows that point downward. The line that goes through all the arrows is where it separates. It is not sealed and is removable. This end of the pump is called the pump cover. It’s shaped like a '6' or ‘9’ and may have a spongy filter attached to it. You can pull/pop this end straight off. Do not try to twist it off and do not pull by the filter otherwise you will rip it off. If you have trouble removing the pump cover, try prying it off using your fingernail, a butter knife, or flat-head screwdriver on the triangle of the second arrow from the right which is below the middle of the white label. Once removed, clean the inside of the cover. Rinse the filter regularly so that it does not become dirty enough to restrict the water flow. If you are missing the pump cover then you need to order replacement parts.
IMPELLER (Part # ‘impeller’, for pumps made in Thailand)
Underneath the pump cover is a circular magnetic impeller with two fins that spins on a silver metal pin. The pin is fixed and does not turn. Remove the magnetic impeller with pliers by pinching one of the fins and pulling it straight off or get under it with something flat and lift it off. Make sure the pump housing and impeller are clean and that there is no sediment or scale build-up inside that would restrict it from turning easily. If you are missing the impeller then you need to order replacement parts.
PUMP MOTOR (Part # ‘20020p01’, ‘20500p01’, etc, for pumps made in Thailand)
Once you have removed the pump cover and impeller you will be able to see the whole impeller axle. The pin is fixed and does not turn. Clean down around the pin with a Q-tip. Make sure the pump housing is clean and that there is no sediment or scale build-up inside that would restrict the impeller from turn easily.
• How do I get my pump apart to clean it? (C)
This applies to the following solar water feature products:
Frog, Dove, Cairo, Corsica, Fish, Watering Can, Cascade, Duo Cascade, Urn, Birdbath, 2-Tier
PUMP COVER WITH FILTER (Part # ‘160xfk’, for pumps made in China)
Hold the pump so you can read the black label on the side. The left half of the pump has slits all around it. This end of the pump is the pump cover and it has a spongy filter inside of it. You can pull this end straight off. Do not try to twist it off. Once it’s off, remove the filter from the cover. Rinse the filter out and clean the slits on the cover. Rinse the filter regularly so that it does not become dirty enough to restrict the water flow. If you are missing the pump cover then you need to order replacement parts.
IMPELLER COVER (Part # n/a, for pumps made in China)
Underneath the pump cover is a piece with 3 prongs coming out of it, a hole in the middle and a spout at the top. This piece is the impeller cover. Through the hole in the center you can see the white impeller. Turn the cover clockwise from the 12 o’clock position to the 2 o’clock position and when the tabs on the pump body line up with the grooves on the cover it will come off. Do not try to pull the cover off without turning it first or you will break one of the tabs on the pump body off. Clean the inside of the impeller cover to make sure there is no sediment or scale build-up inside that would restrict the impeller from turning properly. If you are missing the impeller cover then you need to order replacement parts.
IMPELLER (Part # n/a, for pumps made in China)
Underneath the pump cover and the impeller cover is a white magnetic impeller with four fins that spins on a silver metal pin. The pin is fixed and does not turn. Remove the magnetic impeller by pinching one of the fins and pulling it straight off. If the fins on the impeller do not appear to be white then it is not clean. Make sure the impeller is clean and that there is no sediment or scale build-up on it that would restrict it from turning easily. If you are missing the impeller then you need to order replacement parts.
PUMP MOTOR (Part # ‘SP-160X01’, ‘SP-160X3S’, for pumps made in China)
Once you have removed the pump cover, impeller cover, and impeller you will be able to see down into the impeller shaft and see the whole silver metal pin. The pin is fixed and does not turn. Clean down around the pin and the bottom of the shaft with a Q-tip. Make sure the pump housing is clean and that there is no sediment or scale build-up inside that would restrict the impeller from turn easily.
Frog, Dove, Cairo, Corsica, Fish, Watering Can, Cascade, Duo Cascade, Urn, Birdbath, 2-Tier
PUMP COVER WITH FILTER (Part # ‘160xfk’, for pumps made in China)
Hold the pump so you can read the black label on the side. The left half of the pump has slits all around it. This end of the pump is the pump cover and it has a spongy filter inside of it. You can pull this end straight off. Do not try to twist it off. Once it’s off, remove the filter from the cover. Rinse the filter out and clean the slits on the cover. Rinse the filter regularly so that it does not become dirty enough to restrict the water flow. If you are missing the pump cover then you need to order replacement parts.
IMPELLER COVER (Part # n/a, for pumps made in China)
Underneath the pump cover is a piece with 3 prongs coming out of it, a hole in the middle and a spout at the top. This piece is the impeller cover. Through the hole in the center you can see the white impeller. Turn the cover clockwise from the 12 o’clock position to the 2 o’clock position and when the tabs on the pump body line up with the grooves on the cover it will come off. Do not try to pull the cover off without turning it first or you will break one of the tabs on the pump body off. Clean the inside of the impeller cover to make sure there is no sediment or scale build-up inside that would restrict the impeller from turning properly. If you are missing the impeller cover then you need to order replacement parts.
IMPELLER (Part # n/a, for pumps made in China)
Underneath the pump cover and the impeller cover is a white magnetic impeller with four fins that spins on a silver metal pin. The pin is fixed and does not turn. Remove the magnetic impeller by pinching one of the fins and pulling it straight off. If the fins on the impeller do not appear to be white then it is not clean. Make sure the impeller is clean and that there is no sediment or scale build-up on it that would restrict it from turning easily. If you are missing the impeller then you need to order replacement parts.
PUMP MOTOR (Part # ‘SP-160X01’, ‘SP-160X3S’, for pumps made in China)
Once you have removed the pump cover, impeller cover, and impeller you will be able to see down into the impeller shaft and see the whole silver metal pin. The pin is fixed and does not turn. Clean down around the pin and the bottom of the shaft with a Q-tip. Make sure the pump housing is clean and that there is no sediment or scale build-up inside that would restrict the impeller from turn easily.
• Can I convert my solar fountain to work from electricity?
Yes, you can convert most of our solar fountains to run with electricity.
For Birdbath / 2-Tier / Urn style solar fountains
The connection between the pump and solar panel is underwater in the fountain you have 3 options:
(1) You can use your current solar pump (Part # SP-160X01) with a special AC adaptor (Part # 20741ADAPTOR) that has the same plug as the solar panel with an o-ring seal so water won’t get into the connection, but only if you do not run the pump for more than 8 hours per day in order to maintain the life expectancy of the pump. Also, you do not have to remove the solar panel because the 20741ADAPTOR comes with a cap to seal the solar panel plug so that it will not get rusty.
(2) You can substitute your current pump with short wire (Part # SP-160X01) for a pump with a long wire (Part # SP-160X3S) so the connection between the pump and an adaptor is out of the water. This will make it safe to plug it into our standard 6v AC adaptor (Part# A6V-AC-USA). You should remove the solar panel because the plug will not be connected to anything and will end up getting rusty which will ruin the panel.
(3) If you want to run your fountain for 24 hours per day, you can substitute your solar pump for an electric one. We recommend the electric SP-75 Infinity mag-drive pump (with 6 ft cable). You should remove the solar panel because the plug will not be connected to anything and will end up getting rusty which will ruin the panel.
For Cascade / Cairo / Corsica / Large Fish style solar fountains
The connection between the pump and solar panel is out of the water so you have 2 options:
(1) You can use your current solar pump with long wire (Part # SP-160X3S) with our standard 6v AC adaptor (Part # A6V-AC-USA) if you do not run the pump for more than 8 hours per day in order to maintain the life expectancy of the pump.
(2) If you want to run your fountain for 24 hours per day, you can substitute your solar pump for an electric one. We recommend the electric SP-75 Infinity mag-drive pump (with 6 ft cable).
For Frog / Dove / Small Koi Fish spouting style solar fountains
The connection between the pump and solar panel is out of the water, but the pump wire needs to run out through the hole in the back of the bowl so you only have 1 option:
(1) You can use your current solar pump with long wire (Part # SP-160X3S) with our standard 6v AC adaptor (Part # A6V-AC-USA) and not run the pump for more than 8 hours per day in order to maintain the life expectancy of the pump. Unfortunately the 3-prong plug on our electric SP-75 Infinity mag-drive pump is too large to fit through the hole in the back of the bowl so you will not be able to use this pump.
If you are unsure which style fountain you have please browse through the products on our website or if you would like to know how to convert a different style solar fountain that is not made by us to run with electricity please consult one of our customer service agents.
For Birdbath / 2-Tier / Urn style solar fountains
The connection between the pump and solar panel is underwater in the fountain you have 3 options:
(1) You can use your current solar pump (Part # SP-160X01) with a special AC adaptor (Part # 20741ADAPTOR) that has the same plug as the solar panel with an o-ring seal so water won’t get into the connection, but only if you do not run the pump for more than 8 hours per day in order to maintain the life expectancy of the pump. Also, you do not have to remove the solar panel because the 20741ADAPTOR comes with a cap to seal the solar panel plug so that it will not get rusty.
(2) You can substitute your current pump with short wire (Part # SP-160X01) for a pump with a long wire (Part # SP-160X3S) so the connection between the pump and an adaptor is out of the water. This will make it safe to plug it into our standard 6v AC adaptor (Part# A6V-AC-USA). You should remove the solar panel because the plug will not be connected to anything and will end up getting rusty which will ruin the panel.
(3) If you want to run your fountain for 24 hours per day, you can substitute your solar pump for an electric one. We recommend the electric SP-75 Infinity mag-drive pump (with 6 ft cable). You should remove the solar panel because the plug will not be connected to anything and will end up getting rusty which will ruin the panel.
For Cascade / Cairo / Corsica / Large Fish style solar fountains
The connection between the pump and solar panel is out of the water so you have 2 options:
(1) You can use your current solar pump with long wire (Part # SP-160X3S) with our standard 6v AC adaptor (Part # A6V-AC-USA) if you do not run the pump for more than 8 hours per day in order to maintain the life expectancy of the pump.
(2) If you want to run your fountain for 24 hours per day, you can substitute your solar pump for an electric one. We recommend the electric SP-75 Infinity mag-drive pump (with 6 ft cable).
For Frog / Dove / Small Koi Fish spouting style solar fountains
The connection between the pump and solar panel is out of the water, but the pump wire needs to run out through the hole in the back of the bowl so you only have 1 option:
(1) You can use your current solar pump with long wire (Part # SP-160X3S) with our standard 6v AC adaptor (Part # A6V-AC-USA) and not run the pump for more than 8 hours per day in order to maintain the life expectancy of the pump. Unfortunately the 3-prong plug on our electric SP-75 Infinity mag-drive pump is too large to fit through the hole in the back of the bowl so you will not be able to use this pump.
If you are unsure which style fountain you have please browse through the products on our website or if you would like to know how to convert a different style solar fountain that is not made by us to run with electricity please consult one of our customer service agents.
• Why is a solar-powered fountain better than a normal birdbath?
Solar-powered birdbath fountains do not require the installation of any wiring or plumbing from your home. They are cost efficient since they don't require electricity and can be placed anywhere in your yard that receives direct sunlight, opening up a variety of garden designs that would ordinarily be limited by access to electricity. Solar birdbath fountains keep the water moving. This movement attracts more birds to it because their eyesight detects the motion of the water better than still water. More importantly, moving water prevents mosquitoes from laying eggs. You should do as much you can to prevent water from remaining still for more than three days. Still water can become stagnant quickly in regular birdbaths out in the sun and a neglected birdbath can become a breeding ground for mosquitoes which lay eggs on the surface of stagnant still water. These eggs then become adult mosquitoes in about one week. Besides being pests they can spread viruses and diseases such as West Nile virus, malaria, and bird flu. To help keep the water in your fountain cleaner for longer periods of time we suggest using our highly recommended Fountain Fresh. It’s a non-toxic water clarifier with all-natural enzymes in a powder form that prevents algae from developing in the water and mosquitoes from laying eggs on the surface. It can be purchased from many of our retailers or from Smart Solar directly by going to “Replacement Parts” then “Miscellaneous Parts”.
• Is there a limit to how long I can run my pump with an AC adaptor?
We recommend that you do not run the pump for more than 8 hours per day in order to maintain the life expectancy of the pump. The pump is designed for solar power. If you are running the pump 24 hours per day you will decrease the life of the motor and possibly burn it out, which will void the warranty. It should not be left running when it is outside unattended, overnight, or when you are not at home. If you do not want to have to remember to unplug it every night we suggest you plug it into a timer which will automatically shut it off for you. If you want to run your fountain for 24 hours per day we recommend you purchase an electric Infinity mag-drive pump to use in your fountain.
• What's the difference between ‘amorphous’ and ‘crystalline’ solar panels?
There are essentially two main types of solar panels used in consumer solar products – amorphous and crystalline. Each type uses a different manufacturing process and has distinctive attributes which impact cost and performance.
AMORPHOUS
Amorphous solar panels are manufactured using a thin film deposition process laid onto glass, wherein the prescribed voltage and current are created as part of the actual manufacturing process. Some suppliers produce a second layer of silicon to boost the electrical output, at extra cost, which is referred to as “dual junction”. The process can be highly automated depending on the factory and their production equipment. Historically, dual junction amorphous has mainly been manufactured in Germany whereas single junction amorphous is mainly produced in China, although dual junction factories are now appearing in China too. Amorphous solar panels are easily identified because they have a purplish-blackish appearance without any solder or weld lines and look like darkened glass.
Advantages:
Amorphous offers the benefit of operating in lower light conditions and hence is suitable for many applications that are used in lighting, since it will be able to put some charge into a battery at a lower light level than crystalline solar panels. Amorphous is lower cost than crystalline although it’s less efficient in converting sunlight to energy and as a result requires a larger panel to deliver the same power as a smaller crystalline panel. If size and space is not a problem, amorphous offers distinct advantages for solar battery charging devices. Due to the manufacturing process and the way the electrical connections are made in amorphous panels, it is also possible that even with some shading on part of the solar panel, some electrical power will still be generated and put into a battery.
Disadvantages:
Amorphous is inherently less efficient than crystalline, only being around 7-10% efficient at light conversion compared to a crystalline panel of the same size which has typically between 12-15% efficiency. Depending on the factory and whether it’s a single or dual junction panel, amorphous degrades between 15%-20% after the first 90 days and then levels out. To accommodate this, technical specifications on amorphous are usually stated on net/degraded power, so that the product still receives the necessary power required after the degradation has taken place. By comparison, crystalline remains at about 95% of its stated operating efficiency throughout its life.
CRYSTALLINE
Crystalline panels are produced in two ways – polycrystalline and monocrystalline. Crystals are grown in special chambers and then sliced to create wafers, which in turn are then cut and soldered together to create the necessary voltage and current required. Both types are natural materials and are easy to identify by the actual shiny crystals that are visible as well as the solder and weld lines. Because of this flexibility, crystalline panels are used across a variety of applications that have limited space and/or require placement of multiple panels to achieve the desired circuit where it would be impossible to have one larger amorphous panel (i.e. 4 pieces at each quadrant of a square top lantern that has a finial in the middle).
PolyCrystalline is the lower cost of the two types and is generally slightly more effective in brighter sunlight conditions. Its light conversion efficiency is very slightly lower than monocrystalline. This type of panel is used predominantly in very low end consumer products most likely found at places like Big Lots and Dollar Stores.
MonoCrystalline is the most efficient of these solar types in converting sunlight to energy. It comes in various efficiency grades and as a result different costs. It is most widely used in lighting applications and in most Smart Solar integrated solar panel applications.
Advantages:
MonoCrystalline delivers the highest power output per square inch so that the size of the panel achieves maximum power, and where space is a premium, or where aesthetics dictate the smallest solar panel possible. A similar power amorphous panel would be 50% larger. Once the solar panel is selected it is made to deliver a specified voltage and output charge wattage to either power a pump or charge batteries.
Disadvantages:
Crystalline typically costs more than amorphous. If there is some shading on part of the solar panel, it may stop all power generation from the panel due to the way the electrical connections have been created. Where power is being used to charge a battery this makes it marginally less attractive than amorphous. If the energy is needed to power a device such as pump, the difference is probably not so critical since a pump needs an absolute minimum amount of power to operate, so a solar panel generating only 25% to 50% of its optimum power is less significant because in neither situation would there be enough power to operate the pump.
In summary, we select the type of solar to use depending on the specific application, whether for battery charging or direct drive, which area of the world it will be used, quality and price.
AMORPHOUS
Amorphous solar panels are manufactured using a thin film deposition process laid onto glass, wherein the prescribed voltage and current are created as part of the actual manufacturing process. Some suppliers produce a second layer of silicon to boost the electrical output, at extra cost, which is referred to as “dual junction”. The process can be highly automated depending on the factory and their production equipment. Historically, dual junction amorphous has mainly been manufactured in Germany whereas single junction amorphous is mainly produced in China, although dual junction factories are now appearing in China too. Amorphous solar panels are easily identified because they have a purplish-blackish appearance without any solder or weld lines and look like darkened glass.
Advantages:
Amorphous offers the benefit of operating in lower light conditions and hence is suitable for many applications that are used in lighting, since it will be able to put some charge into a battery at a lower light level than crystalline solar panels. Amorphous is lower cost than crystalline although it’s less efficient in converting sunlight to energy and as a result requires a larger panel to deliver the same power as a smaller crystalline panel. If size and space is not a problem, amorphous offers distinct advantages for solar battery charging devices. Due to the manufacturing process and the way the electrical connections are made in amorphous panels, it is also possible that even with some shading on part of the solar panel, some electrical power will still be generated and put into a battery.
Disadvantages:
Amorphous is inherently less efficient than crystalline, only being around 7-10% efficient at light conversion compared to a crystalline panel of the same size which has typically between 12-15% efficiency. Depending on the factory and whether it’s a single or dual junction panel, amorphous degrades between 15%-20% after the first 90 days and then levels out. To accommodate this, technical specifications on amorphous are usually stated on net/degraded power, so that the product still receives the necessary power required after the degradation has taken place. By comparison, crystalline remains at about 95% of its stated operating efficiency throughout its life.
CRYSTALLINE
Crystalline panels are produced in two ways – polycrystalline and monocrystalline. Crystals are grown in special chambers and then sliced to create wafers, which in turn are then cut and soldered together to create the necessary voltage and current required. Both types are natural materials and are easy to identify by the actual shiny crystals that are visible as well as the solder and weld lines. Because of this flexibility, crystalline panels are used across a variety of applications that have limited space and/or require placement of multiple panels to achieve the desired circuit where it would be impossible to have one larger amorphous panel (i.e. 4 pieces at each quadrant of a square top lantern that has a finial in the middle).
PolyCrystalline is the lower cost of the two types and is generally slightly more effective in brighter sunlight conditions. Its light conversion efficiency is very slightly lower than monocrystalline. This type of panel is used predominantly in very low end consumer products most likely found at places like Big Lots and Dollar Stores.
MonoCrystalline is the most efficient of these solar types in converting sunlight to energy. It comes in various efficiency grades and as a result different costs. It is most widely used in lighting applications and in most Smart Solar integrated solar panel applications.
Advantages:
MonoCrystalline delivers the highest power output per square inch so that the size of the panel achieves maximum power, and where space is a premium, or where aesthetics dictate the smallest solar panel possible. A similar power amorphous panel would be 50% larger. Once the solar panel is selected it is made to deliver a specified voltage and output charge wattage to either power a pump or charge batteries.
Disadvantages:
Crystalline typically costs more than amorphous. If there is some shading on part of the solar panel, it may stop all power generation from the panel due to the way the electrical connections have been created. Where power is being used to charge a battery this makes it marginally less attractive than amorphous. If the energy is needed to power a device such as pump, the difference is probably not so critical since a pump needs an absolute minimum amount of power to operate, so a solar panel generating only 25% to 50% of its optimum power is less significant because in neither situation would there be enough power to operate the pump.
In summary, we select the type of solar to use depending on the specific application, whether for battery charging or direct drive, which area of the world it will be used, quality and price.
Solar Cascade Fountains (standard solar)
• How do I attach the mounting kit to my solar panel?
There are several versions of our solar panels with different brackets for each one. Here is a list of descriptions, parts, and assembly instructions for each version based on the model number of the solar panel:
1. NO LABEL (Amorphous)
Panel has a ½” thick silver frame. On the backside there is a hole notched out in one side of the frame. Comes with a black metal bracket with a 3/4’ wide U-shape opening. Includes four 1 1/2’ long screws to mount bracket to desired surface, and two 1/2’ bolts with a washer and nut on each to mount the bracket to the panel. Place the heads of the bolts inside the frame of the panel through the notch and slide them along the frame. Place the bracket over the frame so that the thread of the bolts goes through the two holes in the bracket and fasten it with the 2 nuts.
2. MODEL # 2020AS01 (Amorphous) or # 6016060P1 (PolyCrystalline)
Panel has a thin silver frame. On the backside there are 2 pieces that slide along the frame; 1 along a short side and 1 along a long side. Comes with a black metal bracket with a 1/2’ wide U-shape opening. Includes four 1 1/2’ long screws to mount bracket to desired surface, and two 1/4’ screws to mount the bracket one of the sliders with the pre-drilled holes. Hold the bracket so that the holes line up with the pre-drilled holes in the slider and fasten it with the 2 screws.
3. MODEL # 2050AS01, 21310AS01, 21820AS01, 2190AS01 (Amorphous)
Panel has a thin black frame. Comes with a square black plastic bracket and has an elbow in the middle with a wing nut so you can adjust the angle of the panel. This piece mounts to the box in the center of the back of the panel with four small screws; 1 in each corner of the box. Then you choose whether to slide on either a stake and stick it in the ground or slide on a larger square piece and use the four 1.5’ long screws to mount the bracket to the desired surface. The larger square piece of the mounting kit does not fit onto the back of the solar panel so the 2 square pieces can’t be mixed up.
4. MODEL # SC0W8S, SC1W5S, SC2W0D (Crystalline)
Panel has a thin black plastic frame. They have a textured glass surface and strips of crystalline solar cells which may have a blue tint in the light. Comes with a square black plastic bracket and has an elbow in the middle with a wing nut so you can adjust the angle of the panel. This piece mounts to the box in the center of the back of the panel by sliding into the 2 rails. The rails on the panel box are slightly angled (wider at the top) so the bracket can only slide into the rails from the top, not from the bottom. Then you choose whether to slide on either a stake and stick it in the ground or slide on a larger square piece and use the four 1.5’ long screws to mount the bracket to the desired surface. The larger square piece of the mounting kit does not fit onto the back of the solar panel so the 2 square pieces can’t be mixed up.
5. MODEL # SC1W5B (Crystalline)
Panel has a thick black plastic frame. It has a smooth soft front surface and strips of crystalline solar cells which may have a blue tint in the light. Comes with a black plastic tube which slides into the round area on the back of the panel at a pre-set angle and then can attach the stake and stick it into the ground. This unit does not come with a wall mounting attachment option.
1. NO LABEL (Amorphous)
Panel has a ½” thick silver frame. On the backside there is a hole notched out in one side of the frame. Comes with a black metal bracket with a 3/4’ wide U-shape opening. Includes four 1 1/2’ long screws to mount bracket to desired surface, and two 1/2’ bolts with a washer and nut on each to mount the bracket to the panel. Place the heads of the bolts inside the frame of the panel through the notch and slide them along the frame. Place the bracket over the frame so that the thread of the bolts goes through the two holes in the bracket and fasten it with the 2 nuts.
2. MODEL # 2020AS01 (Amorphous) or # 6016060P1 (PolyCrystalline)
Panel has a thin silver frame. On the backside there are 2 pieces that slide along the frame; 1 along a short side and 1 along a long side. Comes with a black metal bracket with a 1/2’ wide U-shape opening. Includes four 1 1/2’ long screws to mount bracket to desired surface, and two 1/4’ screws to mount the bracket one of the sliders with the pre-drilled holes. Hold the bracket so that the holes line up with the pre-drilled holes in the slider and fasten it with the 2 screws.
3. MODEL # 2050AS01, 21310AS01, 21820AS01, 2190AS01 (Amorphous)
Panel has a thin black frame. Comes with a square black plastic bracket and has an elbow in the middle with a wing nut so you can adjust the angle of the panel. This piece mounts to the box in the center of the back of the panel with four small screws; 1 in each corner of the box. Then you choose whether to slide on either a stake and stick it in the ground or slide on a larger square piece and use the four 1.5’ long screws to mount the bracket to the desired surface. The larger square piece of the mounting kit does not fit onto the back of the solar panel so the 2 square pieces can’t be mixed up.
4. MODEL # SC0W8S, SC1W5S, SC2W0D (Crystalline)
Panel has a thin black plastic frame. They have a textured glass surface and strips of crystalline solar cells which may have a blue tint in the light. Comes with a square black plastic bracket and has an elbow in the middle with a wing nut so you can adjust the angle of the panel. This piece mounts to the box in the center of the back of the panel by sliding into the 2 rails. The rails on the panel box are slightly angled (wider at the top) so the bracket can only slide into the rails from the top, not from the bottom. Then you choose whether to slide on either a stake and stick it in the ground or slide on a larger square piece and use the four 1.5’ long screws to mount the bracket to the desired surface. The larger square piece of the mounting kit does not fit onto the back of the solar panel so the 2 square pieces can’t be mixed up.
5. MODEL # SC1W5B (Crystalline)
Panel has a thick black plastic frame. It has a smooth soft front surface and strips of crystalline solar cells which may have a blue tint in the light. Comes with a black plastic tube which slides into the round area on the back of the panel at a pre-set angle and then can attach the stake and stick it into the ground. This unit does not come with a wall mounting attachment option.
• I run my pump on an AC adaptor and it stopped working. What do I do?
Make sure the outlet on the wall has live electricity being supplied to it by operating a home appliance that is plugged into it. It is highly unlikely that the AC adaptor would need to be replaced unless it is physically damaged, has been submerged in water, or became corroded so if the pump is plugged into the AC adaptor and it makes no noise or vibration then you need to order a replacement pump. If you were running the pump 24 hours per day then you burned it out and need to order a replacement pump.
• I just got it and I’m missing a piece of the metal stand with the rings. What do I do?
The single-sided Cascade frame (Part # ‘23900-Stand’) is made up of 4 pieces. It consists of a circular base with 3 feet on it for the large bottom bowl, a slightly curved vertical support piece, and 2 pieces with 2 rings on each to hold the jug and the 3 small bowls. The 2 pieces with 2 rings on them are twisted together when they are packaged and may become difficult to separate. If the piece you have with the rings on it looks like it has double rings then you do have both pieces. It’s not one piece and they are not welded together. You just need to pry or twist the two pieces apart. If it does not look like it has double rings on it then you are in fact missing a piece and you will need to order a replacement stand.
• My pump runs quietly but doesn’t pump up to the jug. What do I do? (T)
Please review the troubleshooting information below:
OPTIMUM CONDITIONS & ORIENTATION (for standard external panels)
The solar panel needs to be placed outside in direct sunlight, not indoors behind a window or screen which will filter the light, and not under artificial lighting (i.e. fluorescent or halogen) which will not make it work. Chose a suitable outdoor location where there are no trees that will filter the sunlight. Even the smallest amount of shading reduces panel’s output significantly. Since we are in the northern hemisphere we recommend facing the panel south and tilting it at an angle.
The weather needs to be clear, not hazy or partly cloudy. Just because it’s hot outside and the panel is hot when you touch it does not mean the fountain should be working. Most people assume that the hotter it is outside the better the fountain will work. This is a common misconception, because even though the amount of energy produced by a solar panel is proportional to the strength of the sunlight it receives (based on season), contrary to what you may expect, the higher the temperature of the solar panel the more its output actually decreases, not increases! Generally, temperatures around 68°F or 20°C (room temp) are ideal. You will see the best results in the spring and summer months when the hours between sunrise and sunset are the longest, and in the middle of the day when the sun is directly overhead. Sunlight in the early morning and late afternoon on a nice day (even though it’s bright) may not be strong enough to fully power the pump because the sun is at a low angle. Sunlight throughout the entire day during the late autumn and winter may not be strong enough to fully power the pump.
The panel does not need time to charge before it works and it does not have a built-in battery pack so it will not store any energy. It operates in direct sunlight only.
SOLAR PANEL (for amorphous panels made in Thailand)
The glass on the solar panel needs to be cleaned regularly with a glass cleaner to prevent it from developing any algae, dirt or hard water scale build up that would potentially filter or block the sunlight that the solar panel needs to be able to absorb to power the pump. Once it’s clean the glass should be smooth to the touch, however you may still see some water stains. Make sure that the solar panel has no cracks in the glass. If the panel has any cracks then it needs to be replaced. Hold the panel in the sun, look through the glass, and check for any silver spots or subtle red blotchy areas inside the panel. This would be signs that water has gotten past the seal around the edge and inside the panel. If the panel has this type of discoloration then it needs to be replaced. However, if there’s just a faded area that is an even strip across the whole panel then that is normal and the panel is ok. Look at the underside of the solar panel where the wire is connected to it. Gently flex it back and forth and make sure that there are no breaks in the wire and it has not come away from the panel. If you can see a white or yellow wire exposed then the panel needs to be replaced. If the panel is clean, has no cracks, no discoloration, and no breaks in the wire then it should be functional.
PUMP FILTER HOUSING / CASE / SHELL (for Cascade pump made in Thailand)
Some of our pumps may have a filter housing (Part # ‘FHousing’) around the entire pump. It is teardrop shaped with rows of small holes all the way around it. It has a ‘Smart Solar’ logo sticker on the front with ‘ABS’ below it and on the back of it. This housing needs to be removed in order to access the pump. To open the housing, press down on the ‘PRESS’ arrow on the top of the housing and separate it into 2 halves.
PUMP COVER (for pumps made in Thailand)
Hold the pump so you can read the white label. The top of the pump where the wire comes out is sealed. Do not attempt to open the top of the pump. There are 4 vertical bumps around the bottom of the pump that are shaped like arrows that point downward. The line that goes through all the arrows is where it separates. It is not sealed and is removable. This end of the pump is called the pump cover. It’s shaped like a '6' or ‘9’ and may have a spongy filter attached to it. You can pull/pop this end straight off. Do not try to twist it off and do not pull by the filter otherwise you will rip it off. If you have trouble removing the pump cover, try prying it off using your fingernail, a butter knife, or flat-head screwdriver on the triangle of the second arrow from the right which is below the middle of the white label. Once removed, clean the inside of the cover. Rinse the filter regularly so that it does not become dirty enough to restrict the water flow. If you are missing the pump cover then you need to order a replacement.
IMPELLER (Part # ‘Impeller’, for pumps made in Thailand)
Underneath the pump cover is a circular magnetic impeller with two fins that spins on a silver metal pin. The pin is fixed and does not turn. Remove the magnetic impeller with pliers by pulling it straight off by one of the fins or get under it with something flat and lift it off. Make sure the pump housing and impeller are clean and that there is no sediment or scale build-up inside that would restrict it from turning easily. If you are missing the impeller then you need to order a replacement.
TUBING (for Cascade pump)
Make sure that the tubing from the pump up to the jug is not kinked or bent. If it is, then that will restrict the ability of the water to flow out of the tube properly. If you need to straighten out a kink in your tubing we recommend soaking the tube in hot water to soften it up.
AIR (for Cascade pump made in Thailand)
If the motor runs and the impeller spins on its own then re-attach the pump cover making sure that its snapped on securely all the way around. It may take a few minutes with the panel in direct sunlight to expel the air out of the pump before it starts pumping the water up to the jug. To get the air out, pull the tube out of the jug and submerge the entire hose underwater while the pump is running. You should see some bubbles. When you raise the tubing back up above the surface water should be flowing out of the tube. If so, reconnect it to the jug/pitcher again. Make sure that the tubing is not kinked and the foam rubber bung seals the hole in the bottom of the jug so that water does not leak out. (It’s not necessary to use the bung with copper cascades). Don’t pour water down the tube to ‘help get the air out’ as this will only make it harder for the pump impeller to spin in the right direction.
AC ADAPTOR (universal, running)
If you have a 6volt AC adaptor, disconnect the solar panel and try the pump with the adaptor. If the pump is not strong enough to push the water up to the jug when connected to the AC adaptor, providing the impeller and pump cover are both attached to the pump and the tubing is not kinked, then you need to order a replacement pump.
OPTIMUM CONDITIONS & ORIENTATION (for standard external panels)
The solar panel needs to be placed outside in direct sunlight, not indoors behind a window or screen which will filter the light, and not under artificial lighting (i.e. fluorescent or halogen) which will not make it work. Chose a suitable outdoor location where there are no trees that will filter the sunlight. Even the smallest amount of shading reduces panel’s output significantly. Since we are in the northern hemisphere we recommend facing the panel south and tilting it at an angle.
The weather needs to be clear, not hazy or partly cloudy. Just because it’s hot outside and the panel is hot when you touch it does not mean the fountain should be working. Most people assume that the hotter it is outside the better the fountain will work. This is a common misconception, because even though the amount of energy produced by a solar panel is proportional to the strength of the sunlight it receives (based on season), contrary to what you may expect, the higher the temperature of the solar panel the more its output actually decreases, not increases! Generally, temperatures around 68°F or 20°C (room temp) are ideal. You will see the best results in the spring and summer months when the hours between sunrise and sunset are the longest, and in the middle of the day when the sun is directly overhead. Sunlight in the early morning and late afternoon on a nice day (even though it’s bright) may not be strong enough to fully power the pump because the sun is at a low angle. Sunlight throughout the entire day during the late autumn and winter may not be strong enough to fully power the pump.
The panel does not need time to charge before it works and it does not have a built-in battery pack so it will not store any energy. It operates in direct sunlight only.
SOLAR PANEL (for amorphous panels made in Thailand)
The glass on the solar panel needs to be cleaned regularly with a glass cleaner to prevent it from developing any algae, dirt or hard water scale build up that would potentially filter or block the sunlight that the solar panel needs to be able to absorb to power the pump. Once it’s clean the glass should be smooth to the touch, however you may still see some water stains. Make sure that the solar panel has no cracks in the glass. If the panel has any cracks then it needs to be replaced. Hold the panel in the sun, look through the glass, and check for any silver spots or subtle red blotchy areas inside the panel. This would be signs that water has gotten past the seal around the edge and inside the panel. If the panel has this type of discoloration then it needs to be replaced. However, if there’s just a faded area that is an even strip across the whole panel then that is normal and the panel is ok. Look at the underside of the solar panel where the wire is connected to it. Gently flex it back and forth and make sure that there are no breaks in the wire and it has not come away from the panel. If you can see a white or yellow wire exposed then the panel needs to be replaced. If the panel is clean, has no cracks, no discoloration, and no breaks in the wire then it should be functional.
PUMP FILTER HOUSING / CASE / SHELL (for Cascade pump made in Thailand)
Some of our pumps may have a filter housing (Part # ‘FHousing’) around the entire pump. It is teardrop shaped with rows of small holes all the way around it. It has a ‘Smart Solar’ logo sticker on the front with ‘ABS’ below it and on the back of it. This housing needs to be removed in order to access the pump. To open the housing, press down on the ‘PRESS’ arrow on the top of the housing and separate it into 2 halves.
PUMP COVER (for pumps made in Thailand)
Hold the pump so you can read the white label. The top of the pump where the wire comes out is sealed. Do not attempt to open the top of the pump. There are 4 vertical bumps around the bottom of the pump that are shaped like arrows that point downward. The line that goes through all the arrows is where it separates. It is not sealed and is removable. This end of the pump is called the pump cover. It’s shaped like a '6' or ‘9’ and may have a spongy filter attached to it. You can pull/pop this end straight off. Do not try to twist it off and do not pull by the filter otherwise you will rip it off. If you have trouble removing the pump cover, try prying it off using your fingernail, a butter knife, or flat-head screwdriver on the triangle of the second arrow from the right which is below the middle of the white label. Once removed, clean the inside of the cover. Rinse the filter regularly so that it does not become dirty enough to restrict the water flow. If you are missing the pump cover then you need to order a replacement.
IMPELLER (Part # ‘Impeller’, for pumps made in Thailand)
Underneath the pump cover is a circular magnetic impeller with two fins that spins on a silver metal pin. The pin is fixed and does not turn. Remove the magnetic impeller with pliers by pulling it straight off by one of the fins or get under it with something flat and lift it off. Make sure the pump housing and impeller are clean and that there is no sediment or scale build-up inside that would restrict it from turning easily. If you are missing the impeller then you need to order a replacement.
TUBING (for Cascade pump)
Make sure that the tubing from the pump up to the jug is not kinked or bent. If it is, then that will restrict the ability of the water to flow out of the tube properly. If you need to straighten out a kink in your tubing we recommend soaking the tube in hot water to soften it up.
AIR (for Cascade pump made in Thailand)
If the motor runs and the impeller spins on its own then re-attach the pump cover making sure that its snapped on securely all the way around. It may take a few minutes with the panel in direct sunlight to expel the air out of the pump before it starts pumping the water up to the jug. To get the air out, pull the tube out of the jug and submerge the entire hose underwater while the pump is running. You should see some bubbles. When you raise the tubing back up above the surface water should be flowing out of the tube. If so, reconnect it to the jug/pitcher again. Make sure that the tubing is not kinked and the foam rubber bung seals the hole in the bottom of the jug so that water does not leak out. (It’s not necessary to use the bung with copper cascades). Don’t pour water down the tube to ‘help get the air out’ as this will only make it harder for the pump impeller to spin in the right direction.
AC ADAPTOR (universal, running)
If you have a 6volt AC adaptor, disconnect the solar panel and try the pump with the adaptor. If the pump is not strong enough to push the water up to the jug when connected to the AC adaptor, providing the impeller and pump cover are both attached to the pump and the tubing is not kinked, then you need to order a replacement pump.
• My pump runs quietly but doesn’t pump up to the jug. What do I do? (C)
Please review the troubleshooting information below:
OPTIMUM CONDITIONS & ORIENTATION (for standard external panels)
The solar panel needs to be placed outside in direct sunlight, not indoors behind a window or screen which will filter the light, and not under artificial lighting (i.e. fluorescent or halogen) which will not make it work. Chose a suitable outdoor location where there are no trees that will filter the sunlight. Even the smallest amount of shading reduces panel’s output significantly. Since we are in the northern hemisphere we recommend facing the panel south and tilting it at an angle.
The weather needs to be clear, not hazy or partly cloudy. Just because it’s hot outside and the panel is hot when you touch it does not mean the fountain should be working. Most people assume that the hotter it is outside the better the fountain will work. This is a common misconception, because even though the amount of energy produced by a solar panel is proportional to the strength of the sunlight it receives (based on season), contrary to what you may expect, the higher the temperature of the solar panel the more its output actually decreases, not increases! Generally, temperatures around 68°F or 20°C (room temp) are ideal. You will see the best results in the spring and summer months when the hours between sunrise and sunset are the longest, and in the middle of the day when the sun is directly overhead. Sunlight in the early morning and late afternoon on a nice day (even though it’s bright) may not be strong enough to fully power the pump because the sun is at a low angle. Sunlight throughout the entire day during the late autumn and winter may not be strong enough to fully power the pump.
The panel does not need time to charge before it works and it does not have a built-in battery pack so it will not store any energy. It operates in direct sunlight only.
SOLAR PANEL (for crystalline panels made in China)
The glass on the solar panel needs to be cleaned regularly with a glass cleaner to prevent it from developing any algae, dirt or scale build up that would potentially filter or block the sunlight that the solar panel needs to be able to absorb to power the pump. The surface of the glass is textured so even after it’s clean it won’t feel smooth. Make sure that the solar panel has no cracks in the glass. Look through the glass and check for any bubbles or air pockets inside the panel under the glass. If there’s a blue tint to some of the lines of solar cells that is normal. If the panel has any cracks or internal water damage then it needs to be replaced. Look at the underside of the solar panel where the wire is connected to it. Gently flex it back and forth and make sure that there are no breaks in the wire and it has not come away from the panel. If you can see a white or yellow wire exposed, a crack in the glass, or bubbles under the glass then you need to order a replacement. If the panel is clean and doesn’t have any cracks or spots then it should be functional.
PUMP COVER WITH FILTER (Part # ‘160xfk’, for pumps made in China)
Hold the pump so you can read the black label on the side. The left half of the pump has slits all around it. This end of the pump is the pump cover and it has a spongy filter inside of it. You can pull this end straight off. Do not try to twist it off. Once it’s off, remove the filter from the cover. Rinse the filter out and clean the slits on the cover. Rinse the filter regularly so that it does not become dirty enough to restrict the water flow. If you are missing the pump cover then you need to order replacement parts.
IMPELLER COVER (Part # ‘n/a’, for pumps made in China)
Underneath the pump cover is a piece with 3 prongs coming out of it, a hole in the middle and a spout at the top that the tubing attaches to. This piece is the impeller cover. Through the hole in the center you can see the white impeller. Turn the cover clockwise from the 12 o’clock position to the 2 o’clock position and when the tabs on the pump body line up with the grooves on the cover it will come off. Do not try to pull the cover off without turning it first or you will break one of the tabs on the pump body off. Clean the inside of the impeller cover to make sure there is no sediment or scale build-up inside that would restrict the impeller from turning properly. If you are missing the impeller cover then you need to order replacement parts.
IMPELLER (Part # ‘n/a’, for pumps made in China)
Underneath the pump cover and the impeller cover is a white magnetic impeller with four fins that spins on a silver metal pin. The pin is fixed and does not turn. Remove the magnetic impeller by pinching one of the fins and pulling it straight off. If the fins on the impeller do not appear to be white then it is not clean. Make sure the impeller is clean and that there is no sediment or scale build-up on it that would restrict it from turning easily. If you are missing the impeller then you need to order replacement parts.
PUMP MOTOR (for pumps made in China)
Once you have removed the pump cover with filter, the impeller cover with spout, and the impeller you will be able to see down into the impeller shaft and see the whole silver metal pin. The pin is fixed and does not turn. Clean down around the pin and the bottom of the shaft with a Q-tip. Make sure the pump housing is clean and that there is no sediment or scale build-up inside that would restrict the impeller from turn easily.
TUBING (for Cascade pump)
Make sure that the tubing from the pump up to the jug is not kinked or bent. If it is, then that will restrict the ability of the water to flow out of the tube properly. If you need to straighten out a kink in your tubing we recommend soaking the tube in hot water to soften it up.
AIR (for Cascade pump made in China)
If the motor runs and the impeller spins on its own then re-attach the impeller cover with the spout and the pump cover with the filter. It may take a few minutes with the panel in direct sunlight to expel the air out of the pump before it starts pumping the water up to the jug. To get the air out, pull the tube out of the jug and submerge the entire hose underwater while the pump is running. You should see some bubbles. When you raise the tubing back up above the surface water should be flowing out of the tube. If so, reconnect it to the jug/pitcher again. Make sure that the tubing is not kinked and the foam rubber bung seals the hole in the bottom of the jug so that water does not leak out. (It’s not necessary to use the bung with copper cascades). Don’t pour water down the tube to ‘help get the air out’ as this will only make it harder for the pump impeller to spin in the right direction.
AC ADAPTOR (universal, running)
If you have a 6volt AC adaptor, disconnect the solar panel and try the pump with the adaptor. If the pump is not strong enough to push the water up to the jug when connected to the AC adaptor, providing the impeller and pump cover are both attached to the pump and the tubing is not kinked, then you need to order a replacement pump.
OPTIMUM CONDITIONS & ORIENTATION (for standard external panels)
The solar panel needs to be placed outside in direct sunlight, not indoors behind a window or screen which will filter the light, and not under artificial lighting (i.e. fluorescent or halogen) which will not make it work. Chose a suitable outdoor location where there are no trees that will filter the sunlight. Even the smallest amount of shading reduces panel’s output significantly. Since we are in the northern hemisphere we recommend facing the panel south and tilting it at an angle.
The weather needs to be clear, not hazy or partly cloudy. Just because it’s hot outside and the panel is hot when you touch it does not mean the fountain should be working. Most people assume that the hotter it is outside the better the fountain will work. This is a common misconception, because even though the amount of energy produced by a solar panel is proportional to the strength of the sunlight it receives (based on season), contrary to what you may expect, the higher the temperature of the solar panel the more its output actually decreases, not increases! Generally, temperatures around 68°F or 20°C (room temp) are ideal. You will see the best results in the spring and summer months when the hours between sunrise and sunset are the longest, and in the middle of the day when the sun is directly overhead. Sunlight in the early morning and late afternoon on a nice day (even though it’s bright) may not be strong enough to fully power the pump because the sun is at a low angle. Sunlight throughout the entire day during the late autumn and winter may not be strong enough to fully power the pump.
The panel does not need time to charge before it works and it does not have a built-in battery pack so it will not store any energy. It operates in direct sunlight only.
SOLAR PANEL (for crystalline panels made in China)
The glass on the solar panel needs to be cleaned regularly with a glass cleaner to prevent it from developing any algae, dirt or scale build up that would potentially filter or block the sunlight that the solar panel needs to be able to absorb to power the pump. The surface of the glass is textured so even after it’s clean it won’t feel smooth. Make sure that the solar panel has no cracks in the glass. Look through the glass and check for any bubbles or air pockets inside the panel under the glass. If there’s a blue tint to some of the lines of solar cells that is normal. If the panel has any cracks or internal water damage then it needs to be replaced. Look at the underside of the solar panel where the wire is connected to it. Gently flex it back and forth and make sure that there are no breaks in the wire and it has not come away from the panel. If you can see a white or yellow wire exposed, a crack in the glass, or bubbles under the glass then you need to order a replacement. If the panel is clean and doesn’t have any cracks or spots then it should be functional.
PUMP COVER WITH FILTER (Part # ‘160xfk’, for pumps made in China)
Hold the pump so you can read the black label on the side. The left half of the pump has slits all around it. This end of the pump is the pump cover and it has a spongy filter inside of it. You can pull this end straight off. Do not try to twist it off. Once it’s off, remove the filter from the cover. Rinse the filter out and clean the slits on the cover. Rinse the filter regularly so that it does not become dirty enough to restrict the water flow. If you are missing the pump cover then you need to order replacement parts.
IMPELLER COVER (Part # ‘n/a’, for pumps made in China)
Underneath the pump cover is a piece with 3 prongs coming out of it, a hole in the middle and a spout at the top that the tubing attaches to. This piece is the impeller cover. Through the hole in the center you can see the white impeller. Turn the cover clockwise from the 12 o’clock position to the 2 o’clock position and when the tabs on the pump body line up with the grooves on the cover it will come off. Do not try to pull the cover off without turning it first or you will break one of the tabs on the pump body off. Clean the inside of the impeller cover to make sure there is no sediment or scale build-up inside that would restrict the impeller from turning properly. If you are missing the impeller cover then you need to order replacement parts.
IMPELLER (Part # ‘n/a’, for pumps made in China)
Underneath the pump cover and the impeller cover is a white magnetic impeller with four fins that spins on a silver metal pin. The pin is fixed and does not turn. Remove the magnetic impeller by pinching one of the fins and pulling it straight off. If the fins on the impeller do not appear to be white then it is not clean. Make sure the impeller is clean and that there is no sediment or scale build-up on it that would restrict it from turning easily. If you are missing the impeller then you need to order replacement parts.
PUMP MOTOR (for pumps made in China)
Once you have removed the pump cover with filter, the impeller cover with spout, and the impeller you will be able to see down into the impeller shaft and see the whole silver metal pin. The pin is fixed and does not turn. Clean down around the pin and the bottom of the shaft with a Q-tip. Make sure the pump housing is clean and that there is no sediment or scale build-up inside that would restrict the impeller from turn easily.
TUBING (for Cascade pump)
Make sure that the tubing from the pump up to the jug is not kinked or bent. If it is, then that will restrict the ability of the water to flow out of the tube properly. If you need to straighten out a kink in your tubing we recommend soaking the tube in hot water to soften it up.
AIR (for Cascade pump made in China)
If the motor runs and the impeller spins on its own then re-attach the impeller cover with the spout and the pump cover with the filter. It may take a few minutes with the panel in direct sunlight to expel the air out of the pump before it starts pumping the water up to the jug. To get the air out, pull the tube out of the jug and submerge the entire hose underwater while the pump is running. You should see some bubbles. When you raise the tubing back up above the surface water should be flowing out of the tube. If so, reconnect it to the jug/pitcher again. Make sure that the tubing is not kinked and the foam rubber bung seals the hole in the bottom of the jug so that water does not leak out. (It’s not necessary to use the bung with copper cascades). Don’t pour water down the tube to ‘help get the air out’ as this will only make it harder for the pump impeller to spin in the right direction.
AC ADAPTOR (universal, running)
If you have a 6volt AC adaptor, disconnect the solar panel and try the pump with the adaptor. If the pump is not strong enough to push the water up to the jug when connected to the AC adaptor, providing the impeller and pump cover are both attached to the pump and the tubing is not kinked, then you need to order a replacement pump.
• My pump runs very loudly and doesn’t pump. What do I do? (T)
Please review the troubleshooting information below:
SUBMERGED (universal)
Make sure that the pump is fully submerged in the water. If the pump is running out of the water is can make a constant loud noise as it runs dry. This will eventually cause the pump to burn out.
TUBING (for Cascade pump)
Make sure that the tubing from the pump up to the jug is not kinked or bent. If it is, then that will restrict the ability of the water to flow out of the tube properly. If you need to straighten out a kink in your tubing we recommend soaking the tube in hot water to soften it up.
PUMP COVER (Part # ‘pcover’, for pumps made in Thailand)
Hold the pump so you can read the white label. There are 4 vertical bumps around the bottom of the pump that are shaped like arrows that point downward. The line that goes through all the arrows is where it separates. This end of the pump is the pump cover. It’s shaped like a '6' or ‘9’ and may have a spongy filter attached to it. You can pull/pop this end straight off. Do not try to twist it off and don’t pull by the filter or you will rip it off. If you have trouble removing the pump cover, try prying it off using your fingernail, a butter knife, or flat-head screwdriver on the triangle of the second arrow from the right which is below the middle of the white label. Once removed, clean the inside of the cover. Rinse the filter regularly so that it does not become dirty enough to restrict the water flow. If you are missing the pump cover then you need to order replacement parts.
IMPELLER (Part # ‘impeller’, for pumps made in Thailand)
Underneath the pump cover is a circular magnetic impeller with two fins that spins on a silver metal pin. The pin is fixed and does not turn. Remove the magnetic impeller with pliers by pulling it straight off by one of the fins or get under it with something flat and lift it off. Make sure the pump housing and impeller are clean and that there is no sediment or scale build-up inside that would restrict it from turning easily. If you are missing the impeller then you need to order replacement parts.
MOTOR (for pump made in Thailand)
Leave the pump cover and impeller off of the pump and allow the pump to run. The motor should make a smooth and quiet humming noise. If so, then the motor is functioning properly. If the motor makes a loud noise without the pump cover and impeller attached then there is a problem internally with the motor and you will need to order a replacement pump. Disconnect or cover the solar panel so that the motor stops running and re-attach the impeller and pump cover, making sure that the 2 fins on the impeller face you and the cover is snapped on securely all the way around. If the motor runs normally for a few seconds and then stops pumping and runs loudly, this is referred to as de-coupling. If you are experiencing de-coupling please contact us for a replacement pump.
DE-COUPLING (for pump made in Thailand)
In order to improve the performance of the pump in low light or partly cloudy conditions, upgrades were made in 2006 to the solar panels that were made in Thailand. The pump needs a certain amount of energy before it can start working. The solar panel builds up energy for approximately 5-10 seconds in a capacitor and then gives the pump a boost in order to get it running, instead of having to remove the pump cover and turn the impeller to manually with your finger to start it. In rare conditions where the sun is very strong, the internal motor magnet will spin too quickly for the impeller. If the magnetic impeller cannot spin as fast as the motor magnet it will not be aligned and end up pushing away from the motor and make contact with the pump cover. This causes the pump stop pumping, but it continues to run and starts making a loud noise because the impeller is hitting the cover. We refer to this as ‘de-coupling’. The motor needs to be stopped before the impeller will reseat itself in the proper position.
Please note that de-coupling may only occur with pumps that were made in Thailand when used in certain areas of the country that receive very strong sunlight during the peak summer days. It will not occur during the winter, spring or autumn in the same regions.
SUBMERGED (universal)
Make sure that the pump is fully submerged in the water. If the pump is running out of the water is can make a constant loud noise as it runs dry. This will eventually cause the pump to burn out.
TUBING (for Cascade pump)
Make sure that the tubing from the pump up to the jug is not kinked or bent. If it is, then that will restrict the ability of the water to flow out of the tube properly. If you need to straighten out a kink in your tubing we recommend soaking the tube in hot water to soften it up.
PUMP COVER (Part # ‘pcover’, for pumps made in Thailand)
Hold the pump so you can read the white label. There are 4 vertical bumps around the bottom of the pump that are shaped like arrows that point downward. The line that goes through all the arrows is where it separates. This end of the pump is the pump cover. It’s shaped like a '6' or ‘9’ and may have a spongy filter attached to it. You can pull/pop this end straight off. Do not try to twist it off and don’t pull by the filter or you will rip it off. If you have trouble removing the pump cover, try prying it off using your fingernail, a butter knife, or flat-head screwdriver on the triangle of the second arrow from the right which is below the middle of the white label. Once removed, clean the inside of the cover. Rinse the filter regularly so that it does not become dirty enough to restrict the water flow. If you are missing the pump cover then you need to order replacement parts.
IMPELLER (Part # ‘impeller’, for pumps made in Thailand)
Underneath the pump cover is a circular magnetic impeller with two fins that spins on a silver metal pin. The pin is fixed and does not turn. Remove the magnetic impeller with pliers by pulling it straight off by one of the fins or get under it with something flat and lift it off. Make sure the pump housing and impeller are clean and that there is no sediment or scale build-up inside that would restrict it from turning easily. If you are missing the impeller then you need to order replacement parts.
MOTOR (for pump made in Thailand)
Leave the pump cover and impeller off of the pump and allow the pump to run. The motor should make a smooth and quiet humming noise. If so, then the motor is functioning properly. If the motor makes a loud noise without the pump cover and impeller attached then there is a problem internally with the motor and you will need to order a replacement pump. Disconnect or cover the solar panel so that the motor stops running and re-attach the impeller and pump cover, making sure that the 2 fins on the impeller face you and the cover is snapped on securely all the way around. If the motor runs normally for a few seconds and then stops pumping and runs loudly, this is referred to as de-coupling. If you are experiencing de-coupling please contact us for a replacement pump.
DE-COUPLING (for pump made in Thailand)
In order to improve the performance of the pump in low light or partly cloudy conditions, upgrades were made in 2006 to the solar panels that were made in Thailand. The pump needs a certain amount of energy before it can start working. The solar panel builds up energy for approximately 5-10 seconds in a capacitor and then gives the pump a boost in order to get it running, instead of having to remove the pump cover and turn the impeller to manually with your finger to start it. In rare conditions where the sun is very strong, the internal motor magnet will spin too quickly for the impeller. If the magnetic impeller cannot spin as fast as the motor magnet it will not be aligned and end up pushing away from the motor and make contact with the pump cover. This causes the pump stop pumping, but it continues to run and starts making a loud noise because the impeller is hitting the cover. We refer to this as ‘de-coupling’. The motor needs to be stopped before the impeller will reseat itself in the proper position.
Please note that de-coupling may only occur with pumps that were made in Thailand when used in certain areas of the country that receive very strong sunlight during the peak summer days. It will not occur during the winter, spring or autumn in the same regions.
• My pump runs very loudly and doesn’t pump. What do I do? (C)
Please review the troubleshooting information below:
SUBMERGED (universal)
Make sure that the pump is fully submerged in the water. If the pump is running out of the water is can make a constant loud noise as it runs dry. This will eventually cause the pump to burn out.
TUBING (for Cascade pump)
Make sure that the tubing from the pump up to the jug is not kinked or bent. If it is, then that will restrict the ability of the water to flow out of the tube properly. If you need to straighten out a kink in your tubing we recommend soaking the tube in hot water to soften it up.
PUMP COVER WITH FILTER (Part # ‘160xfk’, for pumps made in China)
Hold the pump so you can read the black label on the side. The left half of the pump has slits all around it. This end of the pump is the pump cover and it has a spongy filter inside of it. You can pull this end straight off. Do not try to twist it off. Once it’s off, remove the filter from the cover. Rinse the filter out and clean the slits on the cover. Rinse the filter regularly so that it does not become dirty enough to restrict the water flow. If you are missing the pump cover then you need to order replacement parts.
IMPELLER COVER (Part # ‘n/a’, for pumps made in China)
Underneath the pump cover is a piece with 3 prongs coming out of it, a hole in the middle and a spout at the top. This piece is the impeller cover. Through the hole in the center you can see the white impeller. Turn the cover clockwise from the 12 o’clock position to the 2 o’clock position and when the tabs on the pump body line up with the grooves on the cover it will come off. Do not try to pull the cover off without turning it first or you will break one of the tabs on the pump body off. Clean the inside of the impeller cover to make sure there is no sediment or scale build-up inside that would restrict the impeller from turning properly. If you are missing the impeller cover then you need to order replacement parts.
IMPELLER (Part # ‘n/a’, for pumps made in China)
Underneath the pump cover and the impeller cover is a white magnetic impeller with four fins that spins on a silver metal pin. The pin is fixed and does not turn. Remove the magnetic impeller by pinching one of the fins and pulling it straight off. If the fins on the impeller do not appear to be white then it is not clean. Make sure the impeller is clean and that there is no sediment or scale build-up on it that would restrict it from turning easily. If you are missing the impeller then you need to order replacement parts.
MOTOR (for pumps made in China)
Leave the pump cover and impeller cover and impeller off of the pump. The motor should not make any noise or vibration at all while it’s running. It should appear to do nothing without the impeller. If so, then the motor is functioning properly.
SUBMERGED (universal)
Make sure that the pump is fully submerged in the water. If the pump is running out of the water is can make a constant loud noise as it runs dry. This will eventually cause the pump to burn out.
TUBING (for Cascade pump)
Make sure that the tubing from the pump up to the jug is not kinked or bent. If it is, then that will restrict the ability of the water to flow out of the tube properly. If you need to straighten out a kink in your tubing we recommend soaking the tube in hot water to soften it up.
PUMP COVER WITH FILTER (Part # ‘160xfk’, for pumps made in China)
Hold the pump so you can read the black label on the side. The left half of the pump has slits all around it. This end of the pump is the pump cover and it has a spongy filter inside of it. You can pull this end straight off. Do not try to twist it off. Once it’s off, remove the filter from the cover. Rinse the filter out and clean the slits on the cover. Rinse the filter regularly so that it does not become dirty enough to restrict the water flow. If you are missing the pump cover then you need to order replacement parts.
IMPELLER COVER (Part # ‘n/a’, for pumps made in China)
Underneath the pump cover is a piece with 3 prongs coming out of it, a hole in the middle and a spout at the top. This piece is the impeller cover. Through the hole in the center you can see the white impeller. Turn the cover clockwise from the 12 o’clock position to the 2 o’clock position and when the tabs on the pump body line up with the grooves on the cover it will come off. Do not try to pull the cover off without turning it first or you will break one of the tabs on the pump body off. Clean the inside of the impeller cover to make sure there is no sediment or scale build-up inside that would restrict the impeller from turning properly. If you are missing the impeller cover then you need to order replacement parts.
IMPELLER (Part # ‘n/a’, for pumps made in China)
Underneath the pump cover and the impeller cover is a white magnetic impeller with four fins that spins on a silver metal pin. The pin is fixed and does not turn. Remove the magnetic impeller by pinching one of the fins and pulling it straight off. If the fins on the impeller do not appear to be white then it is not clean. Make sure the impeller is clean and that there is no sediment or scale build-up on it that would restrict it from turning easily. If you are missing the impeller then you need to order replacement parts.
MOTOR (for pumps made in China)
Leave the pump cover and impeller cover and impeller off of the pump. The motor should not make any noise or vibration at all while it’s running. It should appear to do nothing without the impeller. If so, then the motor is functioning properly.
• My pump is not running at all. What do I do? (T)
Please review the troubleshooting information below:
OPTIMUM CONDITIONS & ORIENTATION (for standard external panels)
The solar panel needs to be placed outside in direct sunlight, not indoors behind a window or screen which will filter the light, and not under artificial lighting (i.e. fluorescent or halogen) which will not make it work. Chose a suitable outdoor location where there are no trees that will filter the sunlight. Even the smallest amount of shading reduces panel’s output significantly. Since we are in the northern hemisphere we recommend facing the panel south and tilting it at an angle.
The weather needs to be clear, not hazy or partly cloudy. Just because it’s hot outside and the panel is hot when you touch it does not mean the fountain should be working. Most people assume that the hotter it is outside the better the fountain will work. This is a common misconception, because even though the amount of energy produced by a solar panel is proportional to the strength of the sunlight it receives (based on season), contrary to what you may expect, the higher the temperature of the solar panel the more its output actually decreases, not increases! Generally, temperatures around 68°F or 20°C (room temp) are ideal. You will see the best results in the spring and summer months when the hours between sunrise and sunset are the longest, and in the middle of the day when the sun is directly overhead. Sunlight in the early morning and late afternoon on a nice day (even though it’s bright) may not be strong enough to fully power the pump because the sun is at a low angle. Sunlight throughout the entire day during the late autumn and winter may not be strong enough to fully power the pump.
The panel does not need time to charge before it works and it does not have a built-in battery pack so it will not store any energy. It operates in direct sunlight only.
SOLAR PANEL (for amorphous panels made in Thailand)
The glass on the solar panel needs to be cleaned regularly with a glass cleaner to prevent it from developing any algae, dirt or hard water scale build up that would potentially filter or block the sunlight that the solar panel needs to be able to absorb to power the pump. Once it’s clean the glass should be smooth to the touch, however you may still see some water stains. Make sure that the solar panel has no cracks in the glass. If the panel has any cracks then it needs to be replaced. Hold the panel in the sun, look through the glass, and check for any silver spots or subtle red blotchy areas inside the panel. This would be signs that water has gotten past the seal around the edge and inside the panel. If the panel has this type of discoloration then it needs to be replaced. However, if there’s just a faded area that is an even strip across the whole panel then that is normal and the panel is ok. Look at the underside of the solar panel where the wire is connected to it. Gently flex it back and forth and make sure that there are no breaks in the wire and it has not come away from the panel. If you can see a white or yellow wire exposed then the panel needs to be replaced. If the panel is clean, has no cracks, no discoloration, and no breaks in the wire then it should be functional.
SOLAR PANEL (for polycrystalline panel #6016060P1)
The glass on the solar panel needs to be cleaned regularly with a glass cleaner to prevent it from developing any algae, dirt or scale build up that would potentially filter or block the sunlight that the solar panel needs to be able to absorb to power the pump. Once it’s clean the glass should be smooth to the touch. Make sure that the solar panel has no cracks in the glass. Look through the glass and check for any bubbles inside the panel. The solar cells inside a polycrystalline panel are shiny fragments and have different shades of blue at different angles. If there is a bubble under the glass and it does not reach the strips of cells then the panel should be ok. If the panel has any cracks or internal water damage spots then it needs to be replaced. Look at the underside of the solar panel where the wire is connected to it. Gently flex it back and forth and make sure that there are no breaks in the wire and it has not come away from the panel. If you can see a white or yellow wire exposed, a crack in the glass then you need to order a replacement. If the panel is clean and does not have any cracks then it should be functional.
CONNECTION (for panels made in Thailand)
Unplug the wire that connects the solar panel to the pump by pulling them apart. Check for any green or white build-up or corrosion on & in the silver plugs. This would be a sign that water got into the connection because it was not water tight. If there is any build-up in the plugs they will need to be cleaned and dried off before re-connecting them. If there is a lot of build up or rust on the silver plugs then the solar panel or pump or both might need to be replaced. Inspect the black or yellow rubber o-ring on the solar panel plug. If the o-ring is cracked or deteriorated then it needs to be replaced. If you are missing the o-ring then you will have an empty groove around the plug and you need to order a replacement. If the o-ring is ok then reconnect the plugs again. Be sure to twist them as you push them together until the entire black or yellow o-ring on the solar panel plug is covered all the way around and inside the sleeve of the pump plug to ensure a water-tight connection. If you look at the plugs when it’s flat on a table you should not be able to see the o-ring.
PUMP FILTER HOUSING / CASE / SHELL (sometimes comes with pumps made in Thailand)
Some of our pumps may have a filter housing (Part # ‘FHousing’) around the entire pump. It is teardrop shaped with rows of small holes all the way around it. It has a ‘Smart Solar’ logo sticker on the front with ‘ABS’ below it and on the back of it. This housing needs to be removed in order to access the pump. To open the housing, press down on the ‘PRESS’ arrow on the top of the housing and separate it into 2 halves.
PUMP COVER (for pumps made in Thailand)
Hold the pump so you can read the white label. The top of the pump where the wire comes out is sealed. Do not attempt to open the top of the pump. There are 4 vertical bumps around the bottom of the pump that are shaped like arrows that point downward. The line that goes through all the arrows is where it separates. It is not sealed and is removable. This end of the pump is called the pump cover. It’s shaped like a '6' or ‘9’ and may have a spongy filter attached to it. You can pull/pop this end straight off. Do not try to twist it off and do not pull by the filter otherwise you will rip it off. If you have trouble removing the pump cover, try prying it off using your fingernail, a butter knife, or flat-head screwdriver on the triangle of the second arrow from the right which is below the middle of the white label. Once removed, clean the inside of the cover. Rinse the filter regularly so that it does not become dirty enough to restrict the water flow. If you are missing the pump cover then you need to order a replacement.
IMPELLER (Part # ‘Impeller’, for pumps made in Thailand)
Underneath the pump cover is a circular magnetic impeller with two fins that spins on a silver metal pin. The pin is fixed and does not turn. Remove the magnetic impeller with pliers by pulling it straight off by one of the fins or get under it with something flat and lift it off. Make sure the pump housing and impeller are clean and that there is no sediment or scale build-up inside that would restrict it from turning easily. If you are missing the impeller then you need to order a replacement.
MANUAL START (universal)
If the impeller does not turn on its own, try manually starting the pump. To do so, take the pump and solar panel outside and make sure the connection is correct. The pump does not have to be in water for a manual start. Hold it up in the air and while facing the solar panel toward direct sunlight, turn the impeller clock-wise with your finger. Please note that attempting to try a manual start outside when it’s cloudy or indoors by holding the solar panel under a light in your house will not work. You must be outside in direct sunlight, not behind a window or screen.
AIR (for Cascade pump made in Thailand)
If the motor runs and the impeller spins on its own then re-attach the pump cover making sure that its snapped on securely all the way around. It may take a few minutes with the panel in direct sunlight to expel the air out of the pump before it starts pumping the water up to the jug. To get the air out, pull the tube out of the jug and submerge the entire hose underwater while the pump is running. You should see some bubbles. When you raise the tubing back up above the surface water should be flowing out of the tube. If so, reconnect it to the jug/pitcher again. Make sure that the tubing is not kinked and the foam rubber bung seals the hole in the bottom of the jug so that water does not leak out (It’s not necessary to use the bung with copper cascades). Don’t pour water down the tube to ‘help get the air out’ as this will only make it harder for the pump impeller to spin in the right direction.
AC ADAPTOR (universal, not running)
If you have a 6volt AC adaptor, disconnect the solar panel and try the pump with the adaptor. If the pump doesn’t make any noise or vibration when it’s plugged into the adaptor then you need to order a replacement pump.
OPTIMUM CONDITIONS & ORIENTATION (for standard external panels)
The solar panel needs to be placed outside in direct sunlight, not indoors behind a window or screen which will filter the light, and not under artificial lighting (i.e. fluorescent or halogen) which will not make it work. Chose a suitable outdoor location where there are no trees that will filter the sunlight. Even the smallest amount of shading reduces panel’s output significantly. Since we are in the northern hemisphere we recommend facing the panel south and tilting it at an angle.
The weather needs to be clear, not hazy or partly cloudy. Just because it’s hot outside and the panel is hot when you touch it does not mean the fountain should be working. Most people assume that the hotter it is outside the better the fountain will work. This is a common misconception, because even though the amount of energy produced by a solar panel is proportional to the strength of the sunlight it receives (based on season), contrary to what you may expect, the higher the temperature of the solar panel the more its output actually decreases, not increases! Generally, temperatures around 68°F or 20°C (room temp) are ideal. You will see the best results in the spring and summer months when the hours between sunrise and sunset are the longest, and in the middle of the day when the sun is directly overhead. Sunlight in the early morning and late afternoon on a nice day (even though it’s bright) may not be strong enough to fully power the pump because the sun is at a low angle. Sunlight throughout the entire day during the late autumn and winter may not be strong enough to fully power the pump.
The panel does not need time to charge before it works and it does not have a built-in battery pack so it will not store any energy. It operates in direct sunlight only.
SOLAR PANEL (for amorphous panels made in Thailand)
The glass on the solar panel needs to be cleaned regularly with a glass cleaner to prevent it from developing any algae, dirt or hard water scale build up that would potentially filter or block the sunlight that the solar panel needs to be able to absorb to power the pump. Once it’s clean the glass should be smooth to the touch, however you may still see some water stains. Make sure that the solar panel has no cracks in the glass. If the panel has any cracks then it needs to be replaced. Hold the panel in the sun, look through the glass, and check for any silver spots or subtle red blotchy areas inside the panel. This would be signs that water has gotten past the seal around the edge and inside the panel. If the panel has this type of discoloration then it needs to be replaced. However, if there’s just a faded area that is an even strip across the whole panel then that is normal and the panel is ok. Look at the underside of the solar panel where the wire is connected to it. Gently flex it back and forth and make sure that there are no breaks in the wire and it has not come away from the panel. If you can see a white or yellow wire exposed then the panel needs to be replaced. If the panel is clean, has no cracks, no discoloration, and no breaks in the wire then it should be functional.
SOLAR PANEL (for polycrystalline panel #6016060P1)
The glass on the solar panel needs to be cleaned regularly with a glass cleaner to prevent it from developing any algae, dirt or scale build up that would potentially filter or block the sunlight that the solar panel needs to be able to absorb to power the pump. Once it’s clean the glass should be smooth to the touch. Make sure that the solar panel has no cracks in the glass. Look through the glass and check for any bubbles inside the panel. The solar cells inside a polycrystalline panel are shiny fragments and have different shades of blue at different angles. If there is a bubble under the glass and it does not reach the strips of cells then the panel should be ok. If the panel has any cracks or internal water damage spots then it needs to be replaced. Look at the underside of the solar panel where the wire is connected to it. Gently flex it back and forth and make sure that there are no breaks in the wire and it has not come away from the panel. If you can see a white or yellow wire exposed, a crack in the glass then you need to order a replacement. If the panel is clean and does not have any cracks then it should be functional.
CONNECTION (for panels made in Thailand)
Unplug the wire that connects the solar panel to the pump by pulling them apart. Check for any green or white build-up or corrosion on & in the silver plugs. This would be a sign that water got into the connection because it was not water tight. If there is any build-up in the plugs they will need to be cleaned and dried off before re-connecting them. If there is a lot of build up or rust on the silver plugs then the solar panel or pump or both might need to be replaced. Inspect the black or yellow rubber o-ring on the solar panel plug. If the o-ring is cracked or deteriorated then it needs to be replaced. If you are missing the o-ring then you will have an empty groove around the plug and you need to order a replacement. If the o-ring is ok then reconnect the plugs again. Be sure to twist them as you push them together until the entire black or yellow o-ring on the solar panel plug is covered all the way around and inside the sleeve of the pump plug to ensure a water-tight connection. If you look at the plugs when it’s flat on a table you should not be able to see the o-ring.
PUMP FILTER HOUSING / CASE / SHELL (sometimes comes with pumps made in Thailand)
Some of our pumps may have a filter housing (Part # ‘FHousing’) around the entire pump. It is teardrop shaped with rows of small holes all the way around it. It has a ‘Smart Solar’ logo sticker on the front with ‘ABS’ below it and on the back of it. This housing needs to be removed in order to access the pump. To open the housing, press down on the ‘PRESS’ arrow on the top of the housing and separate it into 2 halves.
PUMP COVER (for pumps made in Thailand)
Hold the pump so you can read the white label. The top of the pump where the wire comes out is sealed. Do not attempt to open the top of the pump. There are 4 vertical bumps around the bottom of the pump that are shaped like arrows that point downward. The line that goes through all the arrows is where it separates. It is not sealed and is removable. This end of the pump is called the pump cover. It’s shaped like a '6' or ‘9’ and may have a spongy filter attached to it. You can pull/pop this end straight off. Do not try to twist it off and do not pull by the filter otherwise you will rip it off. If you have trouble removing the pump cover, try prying it off using your fingernail, a butter knife, or flat-head screwdriver on the triangle of the second arrow from the right which is below the middle of the white label. Once removed, clean the inside of the cover. Rinse the filter regularly so that it does not become dirty enough to restrict the water flow. If you are missing the pump cover then you need to order a replacement.
IMPELLER (Part # ‘Impeller’, for pumps made in Thailand)
Underneath the pump cover is a circular magnetic impeller with two fins that spins on a silver metal pin. The pin is fixed and does not turn. Remove the magnetic impeller with pliers by pulling it straight off by one of the fins or get under it with something flat and lift it off. Make sure the pump housing and impeller are clean and that there is no sediment or scale build-up inside that would restrict it from turning easily. If you are missing the impeller then you need to order a replacement.
MANUAL START (universal)
If the impeller does not turn on its own, try manually starting the pump. To do so, take the pump and solar panel outside and make sure the connection is correct. The pump does not have to be in water for a manual start. Hold it up in the air and while facing the solar panel toward direct sunlight, turn the impeller clock-wise with your finger. Please note that attempting to try a manual start outside when it’s cloudy or indoors by holding the solar panel under a light in your house will not work. You must be outside in direct sunlight, not behind a window or screen.
AIR (for Cascade pump made in Thailand)
If the motor runs and the impeller spins on its own then re-attach the pump cover making sure that its snapped on securely all the way around. It may take a few minutes with the panel in direct sunlight to expel the air out of the pump before it starts pumping the water up to the jug. To get the air out, pull the tube out of the jug and submerge the entire hose underwater while the pump is running. You should see some bubbles. When you raise the tubing back up above the surface water should be flowing out of the tube. If so, reconnect it to the jug/pitcher again. Make sure that the tubing is not kinked and the foam rubber bung seals the hole in the bottom of the jug so that water does not leak out (It’s not necessary to use the bung with copper cascades). Don’t pour water down the tube to ‘help get the air out’ as this will only make it harder for the pump impeller to spin in the right direction.
AC ADAPTOR (universal, not running)
If you have a 6volt AC adaptor, disconnect the solar panel and try the pump with the adaptor. If the pump doesn’t make any noise or vibration when it’s plugged into the adaptor then you need to order a replacement pump.
• My pump is not running at all. What do I do? (C)
Please review the troubleshooting information below:
OPTIMUM CONDITIONS & ORIENTATION (for standard external panels)
The solar panel needs to be placed outside in direct sunlight, not indoors behind a window or screen which will filter the light, and not under artificial lighting (i.e. fluorescent or halogen) which will not make it work. Chose a suitable outdoor location where there are no trees that will filter the sunlight. Even the smallest amount of shading reduces panel’s output significantly. Since we are in the northern hemisphere we recommend facing the panel south and tilting it at an angle.
The weather needs to be clear, not hazy or partly cloudy. Just because it’s hot outside and the panel is hot when you touch it does not mean the fountain should be working. Most people assume that the hotter it is outside the better the fountain will work. This is a common misconception, because even though the amount of energy produced by a solar panel is proportional to the strength of the sunlight it receives (based on season), contrary to what you may expect, the higher the temperature of the solar panel the more its output actually decreases, not increases! Generally, temperatures around 68°F or 20°C (room temp) are ideal. You will see the best results in the spring and summer months when the hours between sunrise and sunset are the longest, and in the middle of the day when the sun is directly overhead. Sunlight in the early morning and late afternoon on a nice day (even though it’s bright) may not be strong enough to fully power the pump because the sun is at a low angle. Sunlight throughout the entire day during the late autumn and winter may not be strong enough to fully power the pump.
The panel does not need time to charge before it works and it does not have a built-in battery pack so it will not store any energy. It operates in direct sunlight only.
SOLAR PANEL (for crystalline panels made in China)
The glass on the solar panel needs to be cleaned regularly with a glass cleaner to prevent it from developing any algae, dirt or scale build up that would potentially filter or block the sunlight that the solar panel needs to be able to absorb to power the pump. The surface of the glass is textured so even after it’s clean it won’t feel smooth. Make sure that the solar panel has no cracks in the glass. Look through the glass and check for any bubbles or air pockets inside the panel under the glass. If there’s a blue tint to some of the lines of solar cells that is normal. If the panel has any cracks or internal water damage then it needs to be replaced. Look at the underside of the solar panel where the wire is connected to it. Gently flex it back and forth and make sure that there are no breaks in the wire and it has not come away from the panel. If you can see a white or yellow wire exposed, a crack in the glass, or bubbles under the glass then you need to order a replacement. If the panel is clean and doesn’t have any cracks or spots then it should be functional.
CONNECTION (for panels made in China)
Unplug the wire that connects the solar panel to the pump by pulling them apart. Check for any green or white build-up or corrosion on & in the silver plugs. This would be a sign that water got into the connection because it was not water tight. If there is any build-up in the plugs they will need to be cleaned and dried off before re-connecting them. If there is a lot of build up or rust on the silver plugs then the solar panel or pump or both might need to be replaced. Inspect the red rubber o-ring on the solar panel plug. If the o-ring is cracked or deteriorated then it needs to be replaced. If you are missing the o-ring then you will have an empty groove around the plug and you need to order a replacement. If the o-ring is ok then reconnect the plugs again. Be sure to twist them as you push them together until the entire o-ring on the solar panel plug is covered all the way around and inside the sleeve of the pump plug to ensure a water-tight connection. If you look at the plugs when it’s flat on a table you should not be able to see the o-ring.
PUMP COVER WITH FILTER (Part # ‘160xfk’, for pumps made in China)
Hold the pump so you can read the black label on the side. The left half of the pump has slits all around it. This end of the pump is the pump cover and it has a spongy filter inside of it. You can pull this end straight off. Do not try to twist it off. Once it’s off, remove the filter from the cover. Rinse the filter out and clean the slits on the cover. Rinse the filter regularly so that it does not become dirty enough to restrict the water flow. If you are missing the pump cover then you need to order replacement parts.
IMPELLER COVER (Part # ‘n/a’, for pumps made in China)
Underneath the pump cover is a piece with 3 prongs coming out of it, a hole in the middle and a spout at the top. This piece is the impeller cover. Through the hole in the center you can see the white impeller. Turn the cover clockwise from the 12 o’clock position to the 2 o’clock position and when the tabs on the pump body line up with the grooves on the cover it will come off. Do not try to pull the cover off without turning it first or you will break one of the tabs on the pump body off. Clean the inside of the impeller cover to make sure there is no sediment or scale build-up inside that would restrict the impeller from turning properly. If you are missing the impeller cover then you need to order replacement parts.
IMPELLER (Part # ‘n/a’, for pumps made in China)
Underneath the pump cover and the impeller cover is a white magnetic impeller with four fins that spins on a silver metal pin. The pin is fixed and does not turn. Remove the magnetic impeller by pinching one of the fins and pulling it straight off. If the fins on the impeller do not appear to be white then it is not clean. Make sure the impeller is clean and that there is no sediment or scale build-up on it that would restrict it from turning easily. If you are missing the impeller then you need to order replacement parts.
OPTIMUM CONDITIONS & ORIENTATION (for standard external panels)
The solar panel needs to be placed outside in direct sunlight, not indoors behind a window or screen which will filter the light, and not under artificial lighting (i.e. fluorescent or halogen) which will not make it work. Chose a suitable outdoor location where there are no trees that will filter the sunlight. Even the smallest amount of shading reduces panel’s output significantly. Since we are in the northern hemisphere we recommend facing the panel south and tilting it at an angle.
The weather needs to be clear, not hazy or partly cloudy. Just because it’s hot outside and the panel is hot when you touch it does not mean the fountain should be working. Most people assume that the hotter it is outside the better the fountain will work. This is a common misconception, because even though the amount of energy produced by a solar panel is proportional to the strength of the sunlight it receives (based on season), contrary to what you may expect, the higher the temperature of the solar panel the more its output actually decreases, not increases! Generally, temperatures around 68°F or 20°C (room temp) are ideal. You will see the best results in the spring and summer months when the hours between sunrise and sunset are the longest, and in the middle of the day when the sun is directly overhead. Sunlight in the early morning and late afternoon on a nice day (even though it’s bright) may not be strong enough to fully power the pump because the sun is at a low angle. Sunlight throughout the entire day during the late autumn and winter may not be strong enough to fully power the pump.
The panel does not need time to charge before it works and it does not have a built-in battery pack so it will not store any energy. It operates in direct sunlight only.
SOLAR PANEL (for crystalline panels made in China)
The glass on the solar panel needs to be cleaned regularly with a glass cleaner to prevent it from developing any algae, dirt or scale build up that would potentially filter or block the sunlight that the solar panel needs to be able to absorb to power the pump. The surface of the glass is textured so even after it’s clean it won’t feel smooth. Make sure that the solar panel has no cracks in the glass. Look through the glass and check for any bubbles or air pockets inside the panel under the glass. If there’s a blue tint to some of the lines of solar cells that is normal. If the panel has any cracks or internal water damage then it needs to be replaced. Look at the underside of the solar panel where the wire is connected to it. Gently flex it back and forth and make sure that there are no breaks in the wire and it has not come away from the panel. If you can see a white or yellow wire exposed, a crack in the glass, or bubbles under the glass then you need to order a replacement. If the panel is clean and doesn’t have any cracks or spots then it should be functional.
CONNECTION (for panels made in China)
Unplug the wire that connects the solar panel to the pump by pulling them apart. Check for any green or white build-up or corrosion on & in the silver plugs. This would be a sign that water got into the connection because it was not water tight. If there is any build-up in the plugs they will need to be cleaned and dried off before re-connecting them. If there is a lot of build up or rust on the silver plugs then the solar panel or pump or both might need to be replaced. Inspect the red rubber o-ring on the solar panel plug. If the o-ring is cracked or deteriorated then it needs to be replaced. If you are missing the o-ring then you will have an empty groove around the plug and you need to order a replacement. If the o-ring is ok then reconnect the plugs again. Be sure to twist them as you push them together until the entire o-ring on the solar panel plug is covered all the way around and inside the sleeve of the pump plug to ensure a water-tight connection. If you look at the plugs when it’s flat on a table you should not be able to see the o-ring.
PUMP COVER WITH FILTER (Part # ‘160xfk’, for pumps made in China)
Hold the pump so you can read the black label on the side. The left half of the pump has slits all around it. This end of the pump is the pump cover and it has a spongy filter inside of it. You can pull this end straight off. Do not try to twist it off. Once it’s off, remove the filter from the cover. Rinse the filter out and clean the slits on the cover. Rinse the filter regularly so that it does not become dirty enough to restrict the water flow. If you are missing the pump cover then you need to order replacement parts.
IMPELLER COVER (Part # ‘n/a’, for pumps made in China)
Underneath the pump cover is a piece with 3 prongs coming out of it, a hole in the middle and a spout at the top. This piece is the impeller cover. Through the hole in the center you can see the white impeller. Turn the cover clockwise from the 12 o’clock position to the 2 o’clock position and when the tabs on the pump body line up with the grooves on the cover it will come off. Do not try to pull the cover off without turning it first or you will break one of the tabs on the pump body off. Clean the inside of the impeller cover to make sure there is no sediment or scale build-up inside that would restrict the impeller from turning properly. If you are missing the impeller cover then you need to order replacement parts.
IMPELLER (Part # ‘n/a’, for pumps made in China)
Underneath the pump cover and the impeller cover is a white magnetic impeller with four fins that spins on a silver metal pin. The pin is fixed and does not turn. Remove the magnetic impeller by pinching one of the fins and pulling it straight off. If the fins on the impeller do not appear to be white then it is not clean. Make sure the impeller is clean and that there is no sediment or scale build-up on it that would restrict it from turning easily. If you are missing the impeller then you need to order replacement parts.
Solar Spouting / Pouring Fountains (standard solar)
(Go to ‘Solar Cascade Fountains’ for other questions related to the pump)
• Frog, Dove, Small Koi - How do I assemble the pump, tube, bung, and frog? (T)
Assembly with pump made in Thailand and L-tube:
-place the pump into the bowl and run the wire out the hole at the back of the bowl
-insert the foam bung into the bottom of frog/dove/fish
-insert the L-tube into the foam bung and have the opening of the tube facing the same direction as the frog/dove/fish
-place the frog/dove/fish with the attached bung and tube onto the bowl
-rotate the frog/dove/fish clockwise to lock it onto the bowl
-with one hand hold the frog/dove/fish to stabilize it and with your other hand attach the pump to the L-tube under the lip of the bowl with the white label and wire on the pump facing the right side of the bowl and the filter on the pump facing the center of the bowl
-you can also rotate the pump so that the filter faces the left side of the bowl and the white label and wire on the pump face the center of the bowl
-please note that there is not enough room in the bowl to have the wire and label on the pump facing the back of the bowl
-place the pump into the bowl and run the wire out the hole at the back of the bowl
-insert the foam bung into the bottom of frog/dove/fish
-insert the L-tube into the foam bung and have the opening of the tube facing the same direction as the frog/dove/fish
-place the frog/dove/fish with the attached bung and tube onto the bowl
-rotate the frog/dove/fish clockwise to lock it onto the bowl
-with one hand hold the frog/dove/fish to stabilize it and with your other hand attach the pump to the L-tube under the lip of the bowl with the white label and wire on the pump facing the right side of the bowl and the filter on the pump facing the center of the bowl
-you can also rotate the pump so that the filter faces the left side of the bowl and the white label and wire on the pump face the center of the bowl
-please note that there is not enough room in the bowl to have the wire and label on the pump facing the back of the bowl
• Frog, Dove, Small Koi - How do I assemble the pump, tube, bung, and frog? (C)
Assembly with pump made in China and straight tube:
-place the pump into the bowl and run the wire out the hole at the back of the bowl
-insert the foam bung into the bottom of frog/dove/fish
-insert the straight tube into the foam bung so that the bottom of the tube is almost flush with the bottom of the bung
-hold the pump securely under the lip of the bowl so that the wire faces the right side of the bowl and the black label on the side of the pump faces the center of the bowl
-with your other hand place the frog/dove/fish with the attached bung and tube down onto the pump tube -once the pump is attached to the frog/dove/fish sit it down all the way onto the bowl
-with one hand hold the pump in place and with your other hand rotate the frog/dove/fish clockwise to lock it onto the bowl
-please note that there is not enough room in the bowl to have the wire on the pump facing the back of the bowl
-if you would like to request an L-tube for use with this pump please contact customer service. When using an L-tube with this version of the pump you should install it so that the wire faces the left side of the bowl and the white ‘QC passed’ label (on the bottom of the pump) faces the center of the bowl.
-place the pump into the bowl and run the wire out the hole at the back of the bowl
-insert the foam bung into the bottom of frog/dove/fish
-insert the straight tube into the foam bung so that the bottom of the tube is almost flush with the bottom of the bung
-hold the pump securely under the lip of the bowl so that the wire faces the right side of the bowl and the black label on the side of the pump faces the center of the bowl
-with your other hand place the frog/dove/fish with the attached bung and tube down onto the pump tube -once the pump is attached to the frog/dove/fish sit it down all the way onto the bowl
-with one hand hold the pump in place and with your other hand rotate the frog/dove/fish clockwise to lock it onto the bowl
-please note that there is not enough room in the bowl to have the wire on the pump facing the back of the bowl
-if you would like to request an L-tube for use with this pump please contact customer service. When using an L-tube with this version of the pump you should install it so that the wire faces the left side of the bowl and the white ‘QC passed’ label (on the bottom of the pump) faces the center of the bowl.
Solar Birdbath Fountains (standard solar)
• I got a new panel but the tube from my pump won’t fit into it. What do I do?
If you had an older version of the pump (such as #20020P01) and an older version of the panel (such as #2060AS01) and then you received a new version of the panel (such as #SB1W1S) you will not be able to insert the tube from your old pump into the bottom of the new panel without an additional extension tube. The old versions of the panels had a tube built into the bottom of them so an additional piece was not necessary, but the new versions of the panels are redesigned and are flush across the bottom. If you have your fountain head set you can use the extension tube from it and use it in between the pump and panel. If you don’t have an extension tube, please let us know and we will mail one out to you.
• My pump runs quietly but doesn’t pump. What do I do (T)
Please review the troubleshooting information below:
OPTIMUM CONDITIONS & ORIENTATION (for standard integrated panels)
The solar panel needs to be placed outside in direct sunlight, not indoors behind a window or screen which will filter the light, and not under artificial lighting (i.e. fluorescent or halogen) which will not make it work. Chose a suitable outdoor location where there are no trees that will filter the sunlight. Even the smallest amount of shading reduces panel’s output significantly.
The weather needs to be clear, not hazy or partly cloudy. Just because it’s hot outside and the panel is hot when you touch it does not mean the fountain should be working. Most people assume that the hotter it is outside the better the fountain will work. This is a common misconception, because even though the amount of energy produced by a solar panel is proportional to the strength of the sunlight it receives (based on season), contrary to what you may expect, the higher the temperature of the solar panel the more its output actually decreases, not increases! Generally, temperatures around 68°F or 20°C (room temp) are ideal. You will see the best results in the spring and summer months when the hours between sunrise and sunset are the longest, and in the middle of the day when the sun is directly overhead. Sunlight in the early morning and late afternoon on a nice day (even though it’s bright) may not be strong enough to fully power the pump because the sun is at a low angle. Since you can’t tilt the solar panel because it’s integrated into the fountain it will be less efficient at this time. Also, sunlight throughout the entire day during the late autumn and winter may not be strong enough to fully power the pump.
The panel does not need time to charge before it works and it does not have a built-in battery pack so it will not store any energy. It operates in direct sunlight only.
SOLAR PANEL (for amorphous panels made in Thailand)
The glass on the solar panel needs to be cleaned regularly with a glass cleaner to prevent it from developing any algae, dirt or hard water scale build up that would potentially filter or block the sunlight that the solar panel needs to be able to absorb to power the pump. Once it’s clean the glass should be smooth to the touch, however you may still see some water stains. Make sure that the solar panel has no cracks in the glass. If the panel has any cracks then it needs to be replaced. Hold the panel in the sun, look through the glass, and check for any silver spots or subtle red blotchy areas inside the panel. This would be signs that water has gotten past the seal around the edge and inside the panel. If the panel has this type of discoloration then it needs to be replaced. However, if there’s just a faded area that is an even strip across the whole panel then that is normal and the panel is ok. Look at the underside of the solar panel where the wire is connected to it. Gently flex it back and forth and make sure that there are no breaks in the wire and it has not come away from the panel. If you can see a white or yellow wire exposed then the panel needs to be replaced. If the panel is clean, has no cracks, no discoloration, and no breaks in the wire then it should be functional.
TUBE (for pump made in Thailand)
Make sure the pump tube is securely attached to the tube on the bottom of the solar panel. If your pump swings around or dangles on the wire when you lift up the solar panel then the tube is not connected. The pump will not be able to push the water up through the panel if they are not connected. Some water features with shallow reservoirs require an L-shaped corner tube between the pump and panel in order to have the pump fit properly.
PUMP COVER (for pumps made in Thailand)
Hold the pump so you can read the white label. The top of the pump where the wire comes out is sealed. Do not attempt to open the top of the pump. There are 4 vertical bumps around the bottom of the pump that are shaped like arrows that point downward. The line that goes through all the arrows is where it separates. It is not sealed and is removable. This end of the pump is called the pump cover. It’s shaped like a '6' or ‘9’ and may have a spongy filter attached to it. You can pull/pop this end straight off. Do not try to twist it off and do not pull by the filter otherwise you will rip it off. If you have trouble removing the pump cover, try prying it off using your fingernail, a butter knife, or flat-head screwdriver on the triangle of the second arrow from the right which is below the middle of the white label. Once removed, clean the inside of the cover. Rinse the filter regularly so that it does not become dirty enough to restrict the water flow. If you are missing the pump cover then you need to order a replacement.
IMPELLER (Part # ‘Impeller’, for pumps made in Thailand)
Underneath the pump cover is a circular magnetic impeller with two fins that spins on a silver metal pin. The pin is fixed and does not turn. Remove the magnetic impeller with pliers by pulling it straight off by one of the fins or get under it with something flat and lift it off. Make sure the pump housing and impeller are clean and that there is no sediment or scale build-up inside that would restrict it from turning easily. If you are missing the impeller then you need to order a replacement.
AIR (for Birdbath pump made in Thailand)
If the motor runs and the impeller spins on its own then re-attach the pump cover making sure that its snapped on securely all the way around. It may take a few minutes with the panel in direct sunlight to expel the air out of the pump before it starts pumping the water up to the solar panel. Don’t pour water down the tube to ‘help get the air out’ as this will only make it harder for the pump impeller to spin in the right direction.
OPTIMUM CONDITIONS & ORIENTATION (for standard integrated panels)
The solar panel needs to be placed outside in direct sunlight, not indoors behind a window or screen which will filter the light, and not under artificial lighting (i.e. fluorescent or halogen) which will not make it work. Chose a suitable outdoor location where there are no trees that will filter the sunlight. Even the smallest amount of shading reduces panel’s output significantly.
The weather needs to be clear, not hazy or partly cloudy. Just because it’s hot outside and the panel is hot when you touch it does not mean the fountain should be working. Most people assume that the hotter it is outside the better the fountain will work. This is a common misconception, because even though the amount of energy produced by a solar panel is proportional to the strength of the sunlight it receives (based on season), contrary to what you may expect, the higher the temperature of the solar panel the more its output actually decreases, not increases! Generally, temperatures around 68°F or 20°C (room temp) are ideal. You will see the best results in the spring and summer months when the hours between sunrise and sunset are the longest, and in the middle of the day when the sun is directly overhead. Sunlight in the early morning and late afternoon on a nice day (even though it’s bright) may not be strong enough to fully power the pump because the sun is at a low angle. Since you can’t tilt the solar panel because it’s integrated into the fountain it will be less efficient at this time. Also, sunlight throughout the entire day during the late autumn and winter may not be strong enough to fully power the pump.
The panel does not need time to charge before it works and it does not have a built-in battery pack so it will not store any energy. It operates in direct sunlight only.
SOLAR PANEL (for amorphous panels made in Thailand)
The glass on the solar panel needs to be cleaned regularly with a glass cleaner to prevent it from developing any algae, dirt or hard water scale build up that would potentially filter or block the sunlight that the solar panel needs to be able to absorb to power the pump. Once it’s clean the glass should be smooth to the touch, however you may still see some water stains. Make sure that the solar panel has no cracks in the glass. If the panel has any cracks then it needs to be replaced. Hold the panel in the sun, look through the glass, and check for any silver spots or subtle red blotchy areas inside the panel. This would be signs that water has gotten past the seal around the edge and inside the panel. If the panel has this type of discoloration then it needs to be replaced. However, if there’s just a faded area that is an even strip across the whole panel then that is normal and the panel is ok. Look at the underside of the solar panel where the wire is connected to it. Gently flex it back and forth and make sure that there are no breaks in the wire and it has not come away from the panel. If you can see a white or yellow wire exposed then the panel needs to be replaced. If the panel is clean, has no cracks, no discoloration, and no breaks in the wire then it should be functional.
TUBE (for pump made in Thailand)
Make sure the pump tube is securely attached to the tube on the bottom of the solar panel. If your pump swings around or dangles on the wire when you lift up the solar panel then the tube is not connected. The pump will not be able to push the water up through the panel if they are not connected. Some water features with shallow reservoirs require an L-shaped corner tube between the pump and panel in order to have the pump fit properly.
PUMP COVER (for pumps made in Thailand)
Hold the pump so you can read the white label. The top of the pump where the wire comes out is sealed. Do not attempt to open the top of the pump. There are 4 vertical bumps around the bottom of the pump that are shaped like arrows that point downward. The line that goes through all the arrows is where it separates. It is not sealed and is removable. This end of the pump is called the pump cover. It’s shaped like a '6' or ‘9’ and may have a spongy filter attached to it. You can pull/pop this end straight off. Do not try to twist it off and do not pull by the filter otherwise you will rip it off. If you have trouble removing the pump cover, try prying it off using your fingernail, a butter knife, or flat-head screwdriver on the triangle of the second arrow from the right which is below the middle of the white label. Once removed, clean the inside of the cover. Rinse the filter regularly so that it does not become dirty enough to restrict the water flow. If you are missing the pump cover then you need to order a replacement.
IMPELLER (Part # ‘Impeller’, for pumps made in Thailand)
Underneath the pump cover is a circular magnetic impeller with two fins that spins on a silver metal pin. The pin is fixed and does not turn. Remove the magnetic impeller with pliers by pulling it straight off by one of the fins or get under it with something flat and lift it off. Make sure the pump housing and impeller are clean and that there is no sediment or scale build-up inside that would restrict it from turning easily. If you are missing the impeller then you need to order a replacement.
AIR (for Birdbath pump made in Thailand)
If the motor runs and the impeller spins on its own then re-attach the pump cover making sure that its snapped on securely all the way around. It may take a few minutes with the panel in direct sunlight to expel the air out of the pump before it starts pumping the water up to the solar panel. Don’t pour water down the tube to ‘help get the air out’ as this will only make it harder for the pump impeller to spin in the right direction.
• My pump runs quietly but doesn’t pump. What do I do (C)
Please review the troubleshooting information below:
OPTIMUM CONDITIONS & ORIENTATION (for standard integrated panels)
The solar panel needs to be placed outside in direct sunlight, not indoors behind a window or screen which will filter the light, and not under artificial lighting (i.e. fluorescent or halogen) which will not make it work. Chose a suitable outdoor location where there are no trees that will filter the sunlight. Even the smallest amount of shading reduces panel’s output significantly.
The weather needs to be clear, not hazy or partly cloudy. Just because it’s hot outside and the panel is hot when you touch it does not mean the fountain should be working. Most people assume that the hotter it is outside the better the fountain will work. This is a common misconception, because even though the amount of energy produced by a solar panel is proportional to the strength of the sunlight it receives (based on season), contrary to what you may expect, the higher the temperature of the solar panel the more its output actually decreases, not increases! Generally, temperatures around 68°F or 20°C (room temp) are ideal. You will see the best results in the spring and summer months when the hours between sunrise and sunset are the longest, and in the middle of the day when the sun is directly overhead. Sunlight in the early morning and late afternoon on a nice day (even though it’s bright) may not be strong enough to fully power the pump because the sun is at a low angle. Since you can’t tilt the solar panel because it’s integrated into the fountain it will be less efficient at this time. Also, sunlight throughout the entire day during the late autumn and winter may not be strong enough to fully power the pump.
The panel does not need time to charge before it works and it does not have a built-in battery pack so it will not store any energy. It operates in direct sunlight only.
SOLAR PANEL (for crystalline panels made in China)
The glass on the solar panel needs to be cleaned regularly with a glass cleaner to prevent it from developing any algae, dirt or scale build up that would potentially filter or block the sunlight that the solar panel needs to be able to absorb to power the pump. The surface of the glass is textured so even after it’s clean it won’t feel smooth. Make sure that the solar panel has no cracks in the glass. Look through the glass and check for any bubbles or air pockets inside the panel under the glass. If there’s a blue tint to some of the lines of solar cells that is normal. If the panel has any cracks or internal water damage then it needs to be replaced. Look at the underside of the solar panel where the wire is connected to it. Gently flex it back and forth and make sure that there are no breaks in the wire and it has not come away from the panel. If you can see a white or yellow wire exposed, a crack in the glass, or bubbles under the glass then you need to order a replacement. If the panel is clean and doesn’t have any cracks or spots then it should be functional.
TUBE (for pump made in China)
Make sure the pump tube is securely attached to the tube on the bottom of the solar panel. If your pump swings around or dangles on the wire when you lift up the solar panel then the tube is not connected. The pump will not be able to push the water up through the panel if they are not connected.
PUMP COVER WITH FILTER (Part # ‘160xfk’, for pumps made in China)
Hold the pump so you can read the black label on the side. The left half of the pump has slits all around it. This end of the pump is the pump cover and it has a spongy filter inside of it. You can pull this end straight off. Do not try to twist it off. Once it’s off, remove the filter from the cover. Rinse the filter out and clean the slits on the cover. Rinse the filter regularly so that it does not become dirty enough to restrict the water flow. If you are missing the pump cover then you need to order replacement parts.
IMPELLER COVER (Part # ‘n/a’, for pumps made in China)
Underneath the pump cover is a piece with 3 prongs coming out of it, a hole in the middle and a spout at the top. This piece is the impeller cover. Through the hole in the center you can see the white impeller. Turn the cover clockwise from the 12 o’clock position to the 2 o’clock position and when the tabs on the pump body line up with the grooves on the cover it will come off. Do not try to pull the cover off without turning it first or you will break one of the tabs on the pump body off. Clean the inside of the impeller cover to make sure there is no sediment or scale build-up inside that would restrict the impeller from turning properly. If you are missing the impeller cover then you need to order replacement parts.
IMPELLER (Part # ‘n/a’, for pumps made in China)
Underneath the pump cover and the impeller cover is a white magnetic impeller with four fins that spins on a silver metal pin. The pin is fixed and does not turn. Remove the magnetic impeller by pinching one of the fins and pulling it straight off. If the fins on the impeller do not appear to be white then it is not clean. Make sure the impeller is clean and that there is no sediment or scale build-up on it that would restrict it from turning easily. If you are missing the impeller then you need to order replacement parts.
AIR (for Birdbath pump made in China)
If the motor begins to run and the impeller spins on its own then re-attach the impeller cover with spout and the pump cover with filter. Make sure the tube on the pump is connected to the bottom of the panel. Place the solar panel and pump back into the water. It may take a few minutes in direct sunlight before all the air is expelled and water begins to spray up through the solar panel. Don’t pour water down the tube to ‘help get the air out’ as this will only make it harder for the pump impeller to spin in the right direction.
OPTIMUM CONDITIONS & ORIENTATION (for standard integrated panels)
The solar panel needs to be placed outside in direct sunlight, not indoors behind a window or screen which will filter the light, and not under artificial lighting (i.e. fluorescent or halogen) which will not make it work. Chose a suitable outdoor location where there are no trees that will filter the sunlight. Even the smallest amount of shading reduces panel’s output significantly.
The weather needs to be clear, not hazy or partly cloudy. Just because it’s hot outside and the panel is hot when you touch it does not mean the fountain should be working. Most people assume that the hotter it is outside the better the fountain will work. This is a common misconception, because even though the amount of energy produced by a solar panel is proportional to the strength of the sunlight it receives (based on season), contrary to what you may expect, the higher the temperature of the solar panel the more its output actually decreases, not increases! Generally, temperatures around 68°F or 20°C (room temp) are ideal. You will see the best results in the spring and summer months when the hours between sunrise and sunset are the longest, and in the middle of the day when the sun is directly overhead. Sunlight in the early morning and late afternoon on a nice day (even though it’s bright) may not be strong enough to fully power the pump because the sun is at a low angle. Since you can’t tilt the solar panel because it’s integrated into the fountain it will be less efficient at this time. Also, sunlight throughout the entire day during the late autumn and winter may not be strong enough to fully power the pump.
The panel does not need time to charge before it works and it does not have a built-in battery pack so it will not store any energy. It operates in direct sunlight only.
SOLAR PANEL (for crystalline panels made in China)
The glass on the solar panel needs to be cleaned regularly with a glass cleaner to prevent it from developing any algae, dirt or scale build up that would potentially filter or block the sunlight that the solar panel needs to be able to absorb to power the pump. The surface of the glass is textured so even after it’s clean it won’t feel smooth. Make sure that the solar panel has no cracks in the glass. Look through the glass and check for any bubbles or air pockets inside the panel under the glass. If there’s a blue tint to some of the lines of solar cells that is normal. If the panel has any cracks or internal water damage then it needs to be replaced. Look at the underside of the solar panel where the wire is connected to it. Gently flex it back and forth and make sure that there are no breaks in the wire and it has not come away from the panel. If you can see a white or yellow wire exposed, a crack in the glass, or bubbles under the glass then you need to order a replacement. If the panel is clean and doesn’t have any cracks or spots then it should be functional.
TUBE (for pump made in China)
Make sure the pump tube is securely attached to the tube on the bottom of the solar panel. If your pump swings around or dangles on the wire when you lift up the solar panel then the tube is not connected. The pump will not be able to push the water up through the panel if they are not connected.
PUMP COVER WITH FILTER (Part # ‘160xfk’, for pumps made in China)
Hold the pump so you can read the black label on the side. The left half of the pump has slits all around it. This end of the pump is the pump cover and it has a spongy filter inside of it. You can pull this end straight off. Do not try to twist it off. Once it’s off, remove the filter from the cover. Rinse the filter out and clean the slits on the cover. Rinse the filter regularly so that it does not become dirty enough to restrict the water flow. If you are missing the pump cover then you need to order replacement parts.
IMPELLER COVER (Part # ‘n/a’, for pumps made in China)
Underneath the pump cover is a piece with 3 prongs coming out of it, a hole in the middle and a spout at the top. This piece is the impeller cover. Through the hole in the center you can see the white impeller. Turn the cover clockwise from the 12 o’clock position to the 2 o’clock position and when the tabs on the pump body line up with the grooves on the cover it will come off. Do not try to pull the cover off without turning it first or you will break one of the tabs on the pump body off. Clean the inside of the impeller cover to make sure there is no sediment or scale build-up inside that would restrict the impeller from turning properly. If you are missing the impeller cover then you need to order replacement parts.
IMPELLER (Part # ‘n/a’, for pumps made in China)
Underneath the pump cover and the impeller cover is a white magnetic impeller with four fins that spins on a silver metal pin. The pin is fixed and does not turn. Remove the magnetic impeller by pinching one of the fins and pulling it straight off. If the fins on the impeller do not appear to be white then it is not clean. Make sure the impeller is clean and that there is no sediment or scale build-up on it that would restrict it from turning easily. If you are missing the impeller then you need to order replacement parts.
AIR (for Birdbath pump made in China)
If the motor begins to run and the impeller spins on its own then re-attach the impeller cover with spout and the pump cover with filter. Make sure the tube on the pump is connected to the bottom of the panel. Place the solar panel and pump back into the water. It may take a few minutes in direct sunlight before all the air is expelled and water begins to spray up through the solar panel. Don’t pour water down the tube to ‘help get the air out’ as this will only make it harder for the pump impeller to spin in the right direction.
• My pump runs very loudly and doesn’t pump. What do I do? (T)
Please review the troubleshooting information below:
SUBMERGED (universal)
Make sure that the pump is fully submerged in the water. If the pump is running out of the water is can make a constant loud noise as it runs dry. This will eventually cause the pump to burn out.
PUMP COVER (Part # ‘pcover’, for pumps made in Thailand)
Hold the pump so you can read the white label. There are 4 vertical bumps around the bottom of the pump that are shaped like arrows that point downward. The line that goes through all the arrows is where it separates. This end of the pump is the pump cover. It’s shaped like a '6' or ‘9’ and may have a spongy filter attached to it. You can pull/pop this end straight off. Do not try to twist it off and don’t pull by the filter or you will rip it off. If you have trouble removing the pump cover, try prying it off using your fingernail, a butter knife, or flat-head screwdriver on the triangle of the second arrow from the right which is below the middle of the white label. Once removed, clean the inside of the cover. Rinse the filter regularly so that it does not become dirty enough to restrict the water flow. If you are missing the pump cover then you need to order replacement parts.
IMPELLER (Part # ‘impeller’, for pumps made in Thailand)
Underneath the pump cover is a circular magnetic impeller with two fins that spins on a silver metal pin. The pin is fixed and does not turn. Remove the magnetic impeller with pliers by pulling it straight off by one of the fins or get under it with something flat and lift it off. Make sure the pump housing and impeller are clean and that there is no sediment or scale build-up inside that would restrict it from turning easily. If you are missing the impeller then you need to order replacement parts.
MOTOR (for pump made in Thailand)
Leave the pump cover and impeller off of the pump and allow the pump to run. The motor should make a smooth and quiet humming noise. If so, then the motor is functioning properly. If the motor makes a loud noise without the pump cover and impeller attached then there is a problem internally with the motor and you will need to order a replacement pump. Disconnect or cover the solar panel so that the motor stops running and re-attach the impeller and pump cover, making sure that the 2 fins on the impeller face you and the cover is snapped on securely all the way around. If the motor runs normally for a few seconds and then stops pumping and runs loudly, this is referred to as de-coupling. If you are experiencing de-coupling please contact us for a replacement pump.
DE-COUPLING (for pump made in Thailand)
In order to improve the performance of the pump in low light or partly cloudy conditions, upgrades were made in 2006 to the solar panels that were made in Thailand. The pump needs a certain amount of energy before it can start working. The solar panel builds up energy for approximately 5-10 seconds in a capacitor and then gives the pump a boost in order to get it running, instead of having to remove the pump cover and turn the impeller to manually with your finger to start it. In rare conditions where the sun is very strong, the internal motor magnet will spin too quickly for the impeller. If the magnetic impeller cannot spin as fast as the motor magnet it will not be aligned and end up pushing away from the motor and make contact with the pump cover. This causes the pump stop pumping, but it continues to run and starts making a loud noise because the impeller is hitting the cover. We refer to this as ‘de-coupling’. The motor needs to be stopped before the impeller will reseat itself in the proper position.
Please note that de-coupling may only occur with pumps that were made in Thailand when used in certain areas of the country that receive very strong sunlight during the peak summer days. It will not occur during the winter, spring or autumn in the same regions.
SUBMERGED (universal)
Make sure that the pump is fully submerged in the water. If the pump is running out of the water is can make a constant loud noise as it runs dry. This will eventually cause the pump to burn out.
PUMP COVER (Part # ‘pcover’, for pumps made in Thailand)
Hold the pump so you can read the white label. There are 4 vertical bumps around the bottom of the pump that are shaped like arrows that point downward. The line that goes through all the arrows is where it separates. This end of the pump is the pump cover. It’s shaped like a '6' or ‘9’ and may have a spongy filter attached to it. You can pull/pop this end straight off. Do not try to twist it off and don’t pull by the filter or you will rip it off. If you have trouble removing the pump cover, try prying it off using your fingernail, a butter knife, or flat-head screwdriver on the triangle of the second arrow from the right which is below the middle of the white label. Once removed, clean the inside of the cover. Rinse the filter regularly so that it does not become dirty enough to restrict the water flow. If you are missing the pump cover then you need to order replacement parts.
IMPELLER (Part # ‘impeller’, for pumps made in Thailand)
Underneath the pump cover is a circular magnetic impeller with two fins that spins on a silver metal pin. The pin is fixed and does not turn. Remove the magnetic impeller with pliers by pulling it straight off by one of the fins or get under it with something flat and lift it off. Make sure the pump housing and impeller are clean and that there is no sediment or scale build-up inside that would restrict it from turning easily. If you are missing the impeller then you need to order replacement parts.
MOTOR (for pump made in Thailand)
Leave the pump cover and impeller off of the pump and allow the pump to run. The motor should make a smooth and quiet humming noise. If so, then the motor is functioning properly. If the motor makes a loud noise without the pump cover and impeller attached then there is a problem internally with the motor and you will need to order a replacement pump. Disconnect or cover the solar panel so that the motor stops running and re-attach the impeller and pump cover, making sure that the 2 fins on the impeller face you and the cover is snapped on securely all the way around. If the motor runs normally for a few seconds and then stops pumping and runs loudly, this is referred to as de-coupling. If you are experiencing de-coupling please contact us for a replacement pump.
DE-COUPLING (for pump made in Thailand)
In order to improve the performance of the pump in low light or partly cloudy conditions, upgrades were made in 2006 to the solar panels that were made in Thailand. The pump needs a certain amount of energy before it can start working. The solar panel builds up energy for approximately 5-10 seconds in a capacitor and then gives the pump a boost in order to get it running, instead of having to remove the pump cover and turn the impeller to manually with your finger to start it. In rare conditions where the sun is very strong, the internal motor magnet will spin too quickly for the impeller. If the magnetic impeller cannot spin as fast as the motor magnet it will not be aligned and end up pushing away from the motor and make contact with the pump cover. This causes the pump stop pumping, but it continues to run and starts making a loud noise because the impeller is hitting the cover. We refer to this as ‘de-coupling’. The motor needs to be stopped before the impeller will reseat itself in the proper position.
Please note that de-coupling may only occur with pumps that were made in Thailand when used in certain areas of the country that receive very strong sunlight during the peak summer days. It will not occur during the winter, spring or autumn in the same regions.
• My pump runs very loudly and doesn’t pump. What do I do? (C)
Please review the troubleshooting information below:
SUBMERGED (universal)
Make sure that the pump is fully submerged in the water. If the pump is running out of the water is can make a constant loud noise as it runs dry. This will eventually cause the pump to burn out.
PUMP COVER WITH FILTER (Part # ‘160xfk’, for pumps made in China)
Hold the pump so you can read the black label on the side. The left half of the pump has slits all around it. This end of the pump is the pump cover and it has a spongy filter inside of it. You can pull this end straight off. Do not try to twist it off. Once it’s off, remove the filter from the cover. Rinse the filter out and clean the slits on the cover. Rinse the filter regularly so that it does not become dirty enough to restrict the water flow. If you are missing the pump cover then you need to order replacement parts.
IMPELLER COVER (Part # ‘n/a’, for pumps made in China)
Underneath the pump cover is a piece with 3 prongs coming out of it, a hole in the middle and a spout at the top. This piece is the impeller cover. Through the hole in the center you can see the white impeller. Turn the cover clockwise from the 12 o’clock position to the 2 o’clock position and when the tabs on the pump body line up with the grooves on the cover it will come off. Do not try to pull the cover off without turning it first or you will break one of the tabs on the pump body off. Clean the inside of the impeller cover to make sure there is no sediment or scale build-up inside that would restrict the impeller from turning properly. If you are missing the impeller cover then you need to order replacement parts.
IMPELLER (Part # ‘n/a’, for pumps made in China)
Underneath the pump cover and the impeller cover is a white magnetic impeller with four fins that spins on a silver metal pin. The pin is fixed and does not turn. Remove the magnetic impeller by pinching one of the fins and pulling it straight off. If the fins on the impeller do not appear to be white then it is not clean. Make sure the impeller is clean and that there is no sediment or scale build-up on it that would restrict it from turning easily. If you are missing the impeller then you need to order replacement parts.
MOTOR (for pumps made in China)
Leave the pump cover and impeller cover and impeller off of the pump. The motor should not make any noise or vibration at all while it’s running. It should appear to do nothing without the impeller. If so, then the motor is functioning properly.
SUBMERGED (universal)
Make sure that the pump is fully submerged in the water. If the pump is running out of the water is can make a constant loud noise as it runs dry. This will eventually cause the pump to burn out.
PUMP COVER WITH FILTER (Part # ‘160xfk’, for pumps made in China)
Hold the pump so you can read the black label on the side. The left half of the pump has slits all around it. This end of the pump is the pump cover and it has a spongy filter inside of it. You can pull this end straight off. Do not try to twist it off. Once it’s off, remove the filter from the cover. Rinse the filter out and clean the slits on the cover. Rinse the filter regularly so that it does not become dirty enough to restrict the water flow. If you are missing the pump cover then you need to order replacement parts.
IMPELLER COVER (Part # ‘n/a’, for pumps made in China)
Underneath the pump cover is a piece with 3 prongs coming out of it, a hole in the middle and a spout at the top. This piece is the impeller cover. Through the hole in the center you can see the white impeller. Turn the cover clockwise from the 12 o’clock position to the 2 o’clock position and when the tabs on the pump body line up with the grooves on the cover it will come off. Do not try to pull the cover off without turning it first or you will break one of the tabs on the pump body off. Clean the inside of the impeller cover to make sure there is no sediment or scale build-up inside that would restrict the impeller from turning properly. If you are missing the impeller cover then you need to order replacement parts.
IMPELLER (Part # ‘n/a’, for pumps made in China)
Underneath the pump cover and the impeller cover is a white magnetic impeller with four fins that spins on a silver metal pin. The pin is fixed and does not turn. Remove the magnetic impeller by pinching one of the fins and pulling it straight off. If the fins on the impeller do not appear to be white then it is not clean. Make sure the impeller is clean and that there is no sediment or scale build-up on it that would restrict it from turning easily. If you are missing the impeller then you need to order replacement parts.
MOTOR (for pumps made in China)
Leave the pump cover and impeller cover and impeller off of the pump. The motor should not make any noise or vibration at all while it’s running. It should appear to do nothing without the impeller. If so, then the motor is functioning properly.
• My pump is not running at all. What do I do? (T)
Please review the troubleshooting information below:
OPTIMUM CONDITIONS & ORIENTATION (for standard integrated panels)
The solar panel needs to be placed outside in direct sunlight, not indoors behind a window or screen which will filter the light, and not under artificial lighting (i.e. fluorescent or halogen) which will not make it work. Chose a suitable outdoor location where there are no trees that will filter the sunlight. Even the smallest amount of shading reduces panel’s output significantly.
The weather needs to be clear, not hazy or partly cloudy. Just because it’s hot outside and the panel is hot when you touch it does not mean the fountain should be working. Most people assume that the hotter it is outside the better the fountain will work. This is a common misconception, because even though the amount of energy produced by a solar panel is proportional to the strength of the sunlight it receives (based on season), contrary to what you may expect, the higher the temperature of the solar panel the more its output actually decreases, not increases! Generally, temperatures around 68°F or 20°C (room temp) are ideal. You will see the best results in the spring and summer months when the hours between sunrise and sunset are the longest, and in the middle of the day when the sun is directly overhead. Sunlight in the early morning and late afternoon on a nice day (even though it’s bright) may not be strong enough to fully power the pump because the sun is at a low angle. Since you can’t tilt the solar panel because it’s integrated into the fountain it will be less efficient at this time. Also, sunlight throughout the entire day during the late autumn and winter may not be strong enough to fully power the pump.
The panel does not need time to charge before it works and it does not have a built-in battery pack so it will not store any energy. It operates in direct sunlight only.
SOLAR PANEL (for amorphous panels made in Thailand)
The glass on the solar panel needs to be cleaned regularly with a glass cleaner to prevent it from developing any algae, dirt or hard water scale build up that would potentially filter or block the sunlight that the solar panel needs to be able to absorb to power the pump. Once it’s clean the glass should be smooth to the touch, however you may still see some water stains. Make sure that the solar panel has no cracks in the glass. If the panel has any cracks then it needs to be replaced. Hold the panel in the sun, look through the glass, and check for any silver spots or subtle red blotchy areas inside the panel. This would be signs that water has gotten past the seal around the edge and inside the panel. If the panel has this type of discoloration then it needs to be replaced. However, if there’s just a faded area that is an even strip across the whole panel then that is normal and the panel is ok. Look at the underside of the solar panel where the wire is connected to it. Gently flex it back and forth and make sure that there are no breaks in the wire and it has not come away from the panel. If you can see a white or yellow wire exposed then the panel needs to be replaced. If the panel is clean, has no cracks, no discoloration, and no breaks in the wire then it should be functional.
CONNECTION (universal)
Unplug the wire that connects the solar panel to the pump by pulling them apart. Check for any green or white build-up or corrosion on & in the silver plugs. This would be a sign that water got into the connection because it was not water tight. If there is any build-up in the plugs they will need to be cleaned and dried off before re-connecting them. If there is a lot of build up or rust on the silver plugs then the solar panel or pump or both might need to be replaced. Inspect the black or yellow or red rubber o-ring on the solar panel plug. If the o-ring is cracked or deteriorated then it needs to be replaced. If you are missing the o-ring then you will have an empty groove around the plug and you need to order a replacement. If the o-ring is ok then reconnect the plugs again. Be sure to twist them as you push them together until the entire black or yellow or red rubber o-ring on the solar panel plug is covered all the way around and inside the sleeve of the pump plug to ensure a water-tight connection. If you look at the plugs when it’s flat on a table you should not be able to see the o-ring.
PUMP COVER (for pumps made in Thailand)
Hold the pump so you can read the white label. The top of the pump where the wire comes out is sealed. Do not attempt to open the top of the pump. There are 4 vertical bumps around the bottom of the pump that are shaped like arrows that point downward. The line that goes through all the arrows is where it separates. It is not sealed and is removable. This end of the pump is called the pump cover. It’s shaped like a '6' or ‘9’ and may have a spongy filter attached to it. You can pull/pop this end straight off. Do not try to twist it off and do not pull by the filter otherwise you will rip it off. If you have trouble removing the pump cover, try prying it off using your fingernail, a butter knife, or flat-head screwdriver on the triangle of the second arrow from the right which is below the middle of the white label. Once removed, clean the inside of the cover. Rinse the filter regularly so that it does not become dirty enough to restrict the water flow. If you are missing the pump cover then you need to order a replacement.
IMPELLER (Part # ‘Impeller’, for pumps made in Thailand)
Underneath the pump cover is a circular magnetic impeller with two fins that spins on a silver metal pin. The pin is fixed and does not turn. Remove the magnetic impeller with pliers by pulling it straight off by one of the fins or get under it with something flat and lift it off. Make sure the pump housing and impeller are clean and that there is no sediment or scale build-up inside that would restrict it from turning easily. If you are missing the impeller then you need to order a replacement.
MANUAL START (universal)
If the impeller does not turn on its own, try manually starting the pump. To do so, take the pump and solar panel outside and make sure the connection is correct. The pump does not have to be in water for a manual start. Hold it up in the air and while facing the solar panel toward direct sunlight, turn the impeller clock-wise with your finger. Please note that attempting to try a manual start outside when it’s cloudy or indoors by holding the solar panel under a light in your house will not work. You must be outside in direct sunlight, not behind a window or screen.
OPTIMUM CONDITIONS & ORIENTATION (for standard integrated panels)
The solar panel needs to be placed outside in direct sunlight, not indoors behind a window or screen which will filter the light, and not under artificial lighting (i.e. fluorescent or halogen) which will not make it work. Chose a suitable outdoor location where there are no trees that will filter the sunlight. Even the smallest amount of shading reduces panel’s output significantly.
The weather needs to be clear, not hazy or partly cloudy. Just because it’s hot outside and the panel is hot when you touch it does not mean the fountain should be working. Most people assume that the hotter it is outside the better the fountain will work. This is a common misconception, because even though the amount of energy produced by a solar panel is proportional to the strength of the sunlight it receives (based on season), contrary to what you may expect, the higher the temperature of the solar panel the more its output actually decreases, not increases! Generally, temperatures around 68°F or 20°C (room temp) are ideal. You will see the best results in the spring and summer months when the hours between sunrise and sunset are the longest, and in the middle of the day when the sun is directly overhead. Sunlight in the early morning and late afternoon on a nice day (even though it’s bright) may not be strong enough to fully power the pump because the sun is at a low angle. Since you can’t tilt the solar panel because it’s integrated into the fountain it will be less efficient at this time. Also, sunlight throughout the entire day during the late autumn and winter may not be strong enough to fully power the pump.
The panel does not need time to charge before it works and it does not have a built-in battery pack so it will not store any energy. It operates in direct sunlight only.
SOLAR PANEL (for amorphous panels made in Thailand)
The glass on the solar panel needs to be cleaned regularly with a glass cleaner to prevent it from developing any algae, dirt or hard water scale build up that would potentially filter or block the sunlight that the solar panel needs to be able to absorb to power the pump. Once it’s clean the glass should be smooth to the touch, however you may still see some water stains. Make sure that the solar panel has no cracks in the glass. If the panel has any cracks then it needs to be replaced. Hold the panel in the sun, look through the glass, and check for any silver spots or subtle red blotchy areas inside the panel. This would be signs that water has gotten past the seal around the edge and inside the panel. If the panel has this type of discoloration then it needs to be replaced. However, if there’s just a faded area that is an even strip across the whole panel then that is normal and the panel is ok. Look at the underside of the solar panel where the wire is connected to it. Gently flex it back and forth and make sure that there are no breaks in the wire and it has not come away from the panel. If you can see a white or yellow wire exposed then the panel needs to be replaced. If the panel is clean, has no cracks, no discoloration, and no breaks in the wire then it should be functional.
CONNECTION (universal)
Unplug the wire that connects the solar panel to the pump by pulling them apart. Check for any green or white build-up or corrosion on & in the silver plugs. This would be a sign that water got into the connection because it was not water tight. If there is any build-up in the plugs they will need to be cleaned and dried off before re-connecting them. If there is a lot of build up or rust on the silver plugs then the solar panel or pump or both might need to be replaced. Inspect the black or yellow or red rubber o-ring on the solar panel plug. If the o-ring is cracked or deteriorated then it needs to be replaced. If you are missing the o-ring then you will have an empty groove around the plug and you need to order a replacement. If the o-ring is ok then reconnect the plugs again. Be sure to twist them as you push them together until the entire black or yellow or red rubber o-ring on the solar panel plug is covered all the way around and inside the sleeve of the pump plug to ensure a water-tight connection. If you look at the plugs when it’s flat on a table you should not be able to see the o-ring.
PUMP COVER (for pumps made in Thailand)
Hold the pump so you can read the white label. The top of the pump where the wire comes out is sealed. Do not attempt to open the top of the pump. There are 4 vertical bumps around the bottom of the pump that are shaped like arrows that point downward. The line that goes through all the arrows is where it separates. It is not sealed and is removable. This end of the pump is called the pump cover. It’s shaped like a '6' or ‘9’ and may have a spongy filter attached to it. You can pull/pop this end straight off. Do not try to twist it off and do not pull by the filter otherwise you will rip it off. If you have trouble removing the pump cover, try prying it off using your fingernail, a butter knife, or flat-head screwdriver on the triangle of the second arrow from the right which is below the middle of the white label. Once removed, clean the inside of the cover. Rinse the filter regularly so that it does not become dirty enough to restrict the water flow. If you are missing the pump cover then you need to order a replacement.
IMPELLER (Part # ‘Impeller’, for pumps made in Thailand)
Underneath the pump cover is a circular magnetic impeller with two fins that spins on a silver metal pin. The pin is fixed and does not turn. Remove the magnetic impeller with pliers by pulling it straight off by one of the fins or get under it with something flat and lift it off. Make sure the pump housing and impeller are clean and that there is no sediment or scale build-up inside that would restrict it from turning easily. If you are missing the impeller then you need to order a replacement.
MANUAL START (universal)
If the impeller does not turn on its own, try manually starting the pump. To do so, take the pump and solar panel outside and make sure the connection is correct. The pump does not have to be in water for a manual start. Hold it up in the air and while facing the solar panel toward direct sunlight, turn the impeller clock-wise with your finger. Please note that attempting to try a manual start outside when it’s cloudy or indoors by holding the solar panel under a light in your house will not work. You must be outside in direct sunlight, not behind a window or screen.
• My pump is not running at all. What do I do? (C)
Please review the troubleshooting information below:
OPTIMUM CONDITIONS & ORIENTATION (for standard integrated panels)
The solar panel needs to be placed outside in direct sunlight, not indoors behind a window or screen which will filter the light, and not under artificial lighting (i.e. fluorescent or halogen) which will not make it work. Chose a suitable outdoor location where there are no trees that will filter the sunlight. Even the smallest amount of shading reduces panel’s output significantly.
The weather needs to be clear, not hazy or partly cloudy. Just because it’s hot outside and the panel is hot when you touch it does not mean the fountain should be working. Most people assume that the hotter it is outside the better the fountain will work. This is a common misconception, because even though the amount of energy produced by a solar panel is proportional to the strength of the sunlight it receives (based on season), contrary to what you may expect, the higher the temperature of the solar panel the more its output actually decreases, not increases! Generally, temperatures around 68°F or 20°C (room temp) are ideal. You will see the best results in the spring and summer months when the hours between sunrise and sunset are the longest, and in the middle of the day when the sun is directly overhead. Sunlight in the early morning and late afternoon on a nice day (even though it’s bright) may not be strong enough to fully power the pump because the sun is at a low angle. Since you can’t tilt the solar panel because it’s integrated into the fountain it will be less efficient at this time. Also, sunlight throughout the entire day during the late autumn and winter may not be strong enough to fully power the pump.
The panel does not need time to charge before it works and it does not have a built-in battery pack so it will not store any energy. It operates in direct sunlight only.
SOLAR PANEL (for crystalline panels made in China)
The glass on the solar panel needs to be cleaned regularly with a glass cleaner to prevent it from developing any algae, dirt or scale build up that would potentially filter or block the sunlight that the solar panel needs to be able to absorb to power the pump. The surface of the glass is textured so even after it’s clean it won’t feel smooth. Make sure that the solar panel has no cracks in the glass. Look through the glass and check for any bubbles or air pockets inside the panel under the glass. If there’s a blue tint to some of the lines of solar cells that is normal. If the panel has any cracks or internal water damage then it needs to be replaced. Look at the underside of the solar panel where the wire is connected to it. Gently flex it back and forth and make sure that there are no breaks in the wire and it has not come away from the panel. If you can see a white or yellow wire exposed, a crack in the glass, or bubbles under the glass then you need to order a replacement. If the panel is clean and doesn’t have any cracks or spots then it should be functional.
CONNECTION (for panels made in China)
Unplug the wire that connects the solar panel to the pump by pulling them apart. Check for any green or white build-up or corrosion on & in the silver plugs. This would be a sign that water got into the connection because it was not water tight. If there is any build-up in the plugs they will need to be cleaned and dried off before re-connecting them. If there is a lot of build up or rust on the silver plugs then the solar panel or pump or both might need to be replaced. Inspect the red rubber o-ring on the solar panel plug. If the o-ring is cracked or deteriorated then it needs to be replaced. If you are missing the o-ring then you will have an empty groove around the plug and you need to order a replacement. If the o-ring is ok then reconnect the plugs again. Be sure to twist them as you push them together until the entire o-ring on the solar panel plug is covered all the way around and inside the sleeve of the pump plug to ensure a water-tight connection. If you look at the plugs when it’s flat on a table you should not be able to see the o-ring.
PUMP COVER WITH FILTER (Part # ‘160xfk’, for pumps made in China)
Hold the pump so you can read the black label on the side. The left half of the pump has slits all around it. This end of the pump is the pump cover and it has a spongy filter inside of it. You can pull this end straight off. Do not try to twist it off. Once it’s off, remove the filter from the cover. Rinse the filter out and clean the slits on the cover. Rinse the filter regularly so that it does not become dirty enough to restrict the water flow. If you are missing the pump cover then you need to order replacement parts.
IMPELLER COVER (Part # ‘n/a’, for pumps made in China)
Underneath the pump cover is a piece with 3 prongs coming out of it, a hole in the middle and a spout at the top. This piece is the impeller cover. Through the hole in the center you can see the white impeller. Turn the cover clockwise from the 12 o’clock position to the 2 o’clock position and when the tabs on the pump body line up with the grooves on the cover it will come off. Do not try to pull the cover off without turning it first or you will break one of the tabs on the pump body off. Clean the inside of the impeller cover to make sure there is no sediment or scale build-up inside that would restrict the impeller from turning properly. If you are missing the impeller cover then you need to order replacement parts.
IMPELLER (Part # ‘n/a’, for pumps made in China)
Underneath the pump cover and the impeller cover is a white magnetic impeller with four fins that spins on a silver metal pin. The pin is fixed and does not turn. Remove the magnetic impeller by pinching one of the fins and pulling it straight off. If the fins on the impeller do not appear to be white then it is not clean. Make sure the impeller is clean and that there is no sediment or scale build-up on it that would restrict it from turning easily. If you are missing the impeller then you need to order replacement parts.
MANUAL START (universal)
If the impeller does not turn on its own, try manually starting the pump. To do so, take the pump and solar panel outside and make sure the connection is correct. The pump does not have to be in water for a manual start. Hold it up in the air and while facing the solar panel toward direct sunlight, turn the impeller clock-wise with your finger. Please note that attempting to try a manual start outside when it’s cloudy or indoors by holding the solar panel under a light in your house will not work. You must be outside in direct sunlight, not behind a window or screen.
AIR (for Birdbath with pump made in China)
If the motor begins to run and the impeller spins on its own then re-attach the impeller cover with spout and the pump cover with filter. Make sure the tube on the pump is connected to the bottom of the panel. Place the pump and panel back into the water. It may take a few minutes in direct sunlight before all the air is expelled and water begins to spray up through the solar panel. Don’t pour water down the tube to ‘help get the air out’ as this will only make it harder for the pump impeller to spin in the right direction.
OPTIMUM CONDITIONS & ORIENTATION (for standard integrated panels)
The solar panel needs to be placed outside in direct sunlight, not indoors behind a window or screen which will filter the light, and not under artificial lighting (i.e. fluorescent or halogen) which will not make it work. Chose a suitable outdoor location where there are no trees that will filter the sunlight. Even the smallest amount of shading reduces panel’s output significantly.
The weather needs to be clear, not hazy or partly cloudy. Just because it’s hot outside and the panel is hot when you touch it does not mean the fountain should be working. Most people assume that the hotter it is outside the better the fountain will work. This is a common misconception, because even though the amount of energy produced by a solar panel is proportional to the strength of the sunlight it receives (based on season), contrary to what you may expect, the higher the temperature of the solar panel the more its output actually decreases, not increases! Generally, temperatures around 68°F or 20°C (room temp) are ideal. You will see the best results in the spring and summer months when the hours between sunrise and sunset are the longest, and in the middle of the day when the sun is directly overhead. Sunlight in the early morning and late afternoon on a nice day (even though it’s bright) may not be strong enough to fully power the pump because the sun is at a low angle. Since you can’t tilt the solar panel because it’s integrated into the fountain it will be less efficient at this time. Also, sunlight throughout the entire day during the late autumn and winter may not be strong enough to fully power the pump.
The panel does not need time to charge before it works and it does not have a built-in battery pack so it will not store any energy. It operates in direct sunlight only.
SOLAR PANEL (for crystalline panels made in China)
The glass on the solar panel needs to be cleaned regularly with a glass cleaner to prevent it from developing any algae, dirt or scale build up that would potentially filter or block the sunlight that the solar panel needs to be able to absorb to power the pump. The surface of the glass is textured so even after it’s clean it won’t feel smooth. Make sure that the solar panel has no cracks in the glass. Look through the glass and check for any bubbles or air pockets inside the panel under the glass. If there’s a blue tint to some of the lines of solar cells that is normal. If the panel has any cracks or internal water damage then it needs to be replaced. Look at the underside of the solar panel where the wire is connected to it. Gently flex it back and forth and make sure that there are no breaks in the wire and it has not come away from the panel. If you can see a white or yellow wire exposed, a crack in the glass, or bubbles under the glass then you need to order a replacement. If the panel is clean and doesn’t have any cracks or spots then it should be functional.
CONNECTION (for panels made in China)
Unplug the wire that connects the solar panel to the pump by pulling them apart. Check for any green or white build-up or corrosion on & in the silver plugs. This would be a sign that water got into the connection because it was not water tight. If there is any build-up in the plugs they will need to be cleaned and dried off before re-connecting them. If there is a lot of build up or rust on the silver plugs then the solar panel or pump or both might need to be replaced. Inspect the red rubber o-ring on the solar panel plug. If the o-ring is cracked or deteriorated then it needs to be replaced. If you are missing the o-ring then you will have an empty groove around the plug and you need to order a replacement. If the o-ring is ok then reconnect the plugs again. Be sure to twist them as you push them together until the entire o-ring on the solar panel plug is covered all the way around and inside the sleeve of the pump plug to ensure a water-tight connection. If you look at the plugs when it’s flat on a table you should not be able to see the o-ring.
PUMP COVER WITH FILTER (Part # ‘160xfk’, for pumps made in China)
Hold the pump so you can read the black label on the side. The left half of the pump has slits all around it. This end of the pump is the pump cover and it has a spongy filter inside of it. You can pull this end straight off. Do not try to twist it off. Once it’s off, remove the filter from the cover. Rinse the filter out and clean the slits on the cover. Rinse the filter regularly so that it does not become dirty enough to restrict the water flow. If you are missing the pump cover then you need to order replacement parts.
IMPELLER COVER (Part # ‘n/a’, for pumps made in China)
Underneath the pump cover is a piece with 3 prongs coming out of it, a hole in the middle and a spout at the top. This piece is the impeller cover. Through the hole in the center you can see the white impeller. Turn the cover clockwise from the 12 o’clock position to the 2 o’clock position and when the tabs on the pump body line up with the grooves on the cover it will come off. Do not try to pull the cover off without turning it first or you will break one of the tabs on the pump body off. Clean the inside of the impeller cover to make sure there is no sediment or scale build-up inside that would restrict the impeller from turning properly. If you are missing the impeller cover then you need to order replacement parts.
IMPELLER (Part # ‘n/a’, for pumps made in China)
Underneath the pump cover and the impeller cover is a white magnetic impeller with four fins that spins on a silver metal pin. The pin is fixed and does not turn. Remove the magnetic impeller by pinching one of the fins and pulling it straight off. If the fins on the impeller do not appear to be white then it is not clean. Make sure the impeller is clean and that there is no sediment or scale build-up on it that would restrict it from turning easily. If you are missing the impeller then you need to order replacement parts.
MANUAL START (universal)
If the impeller does not turn on its own, try manually starting the pump. To do so, take the pump and solar panel outside and make sure the connection is correct. The pump does not have to be in water for a manual start. Hold it up in the air and while facing the solar panel toward direct sunlight, turn the impeller clock-wise with your finger. Please note that attempting to try a manual start outside when it’s cloudy or indoors by holding the solar panel under a light in your house will not work. You must be outside in direct sunlight, not behind a window or screen.
AIR (for Birdbath with pump made in China)
If the motor begins to run and the impeller spins on its own then re-attach the impeller cover with spout and the pump cover with filter. Make sure the tube on the pump is connected to the bottom of the panel. Place the pump and panel back into the water. It may take a few minutes in direct sunlight before all the air is expelled and water begins to spray up through the solar panel. Don’t pour water down the tube to ‘help get the air out’ as this will only make it harder for the pump impeller to spin in the right direction.
Solar 2-Tier & 3-Tier Fountains (standard solar)
• My pump runs quietly but doesn’t pump. What do I do? (T)
Please review the troubleshooting information below:
OPTIMUM CONDITIONS & ORIENTATION (for standard integrated panels)
The solar panel needs to be placed outside in direct sunlight, not indoors behind a window or screen which will filter the light, and not under artificial lighting (i.e. fluorescent or halogen) which will not make it work. Chose a suitable outdoor location where there are no trees that will filter the sunlight. Even the smallest amount of shading reduces panel’s output significantly.
The weather needs to be clear, not hazy or partly cloudy. Just because it’s hot outside and the panel is hot when you touch it does not mean the fountain should be working. Most people assume that the hotter it is outside the better the fountain will work. This is a common misconception, because even though the amount of energy produced by a solar panel is proportional to the strength of the sunlight it receives (based on season), contrary to what you may expect, the higher the temperature of the solar panel the more its output actually decreases, not increases! Generally, temperatures around 68°F or 20°C (room temp) are ideal. You will see the best results in the spring and summer months when the hours between sunrise and sunset are the longest, and in the middle of the day when the sun is directly overhead. Sunlight in the early morning and late afternoon on a nice day (even though it’s bright) may not be strong enough to fully power the pump because the sun is at a low angle. Since you can’t tilt the solar panel because it’s integrated into the fountain it will be less efficient at this time. Also, sunlight throughout the entire day during the late autumn and winter may not be strong enough to fully power the pump.
The panel does not need time to charge before it works and it does not have a built-in battery pack so it will not store any energy. It operates in direct sunlight only.
SOLAR PANEL (for amorphous panels made in Thailand)
The glass on the solar panel needs to be cleaned regularly with a glass cleaner to prevent it from developing any algae, dirt or hard water scale build up that would potentially filter or block the sunlight that the solar panel needs to be able to absorb to power the pump. Once it’s clean the glass should be smooth to the touch, however you may still see some water stains. Make sure that the solar panel has no cracks in the glass. If the panel has any cracks then it needs to be replaced. Hold the panel in the sun, look through the glass, and check for any silver spots or subtle red blotchy areas inside the panel. This would be signs that water has gotten past the seal around the edge and inside the panel. If the panel has this type of discoloration then it needs to be replaced. However, if there’s just a faded area that is an even strip across the whole panel then that is normal and the panel is ok. Look at the underside of the solar panel where the wire is connected to it. Gently flex it back and forth and make sure that there are no breaks in the wire and it has not come away from the panel. If you can see a white or yellow wire exposed then the panel needs to be replaced. If the panel is clean, has no cracks, no discoloration, and no breaks in the wire then it should be functional.
SUBMERGED (universal, 2-tier with pump made in Thailand)
Make sure that the pump is fully submerged in the water. If the pump is running out of the water is running dry. This will eventually cause the pump to burn out. If you are missing a tube then your pump may be up too high inside the top tier and it may not be submerged in water. With both tubes installed, the top of the pump should be about 2-3 inches below the bung. If the top of your pump is less than 1 inch away from the bung (so you can just fit one finger in the gap) then you are missing a tube which means your pump is up too high and is not submerged in the water.
TUBE KIT (universal, 2-tier with pump made in Thailand)
All 2-tier fountains should come with a 2-tier tube kit, which includes two 2 inch tubes and a 2 inch wide foam rubber bung with a hole in the middle and a slit on the side. You need to make sure that the pump is securely attached to the 2 tubes that go up through the foam bung that seals the hole in the resin under the solar panel and that tube is also securely inserted into the bottom of the solar panel. If you are missing a tube then your pump may be up too high inside the top tier and it may not be submerged in water. With both tubes installed, the top of the pump should be about 1 ½ - 2 inches below the bung. If the top of your pump is less than 1 inch away from the bung or touching it, then you are missing a tube which means your pump is up too high and is not submerged in the water. If your pump swings around underneath or dangles on the wire then the tube is not connected. If you can walk up to the fountain and lift the solar panel up out of the top tier then the tube is not connected securely. The pump will not be able to push the water up through the tubes and the panel if they are all not connected properly. If any of the tubes are cracked you need to order a replacement tube kit (Part # ‘2090kit2’).
PUMP COVER (for pumps made in Thailand)
Hold the pump so you can read the white label. The top of the pump where the wire comes out is sealed. Do not attempt to open the top of the pump. There are 4 vertical bumps around the bottom of the pump that are shaped like arrows that point downward. The line that goes through all the arrows is where it separates. It is not sealed and is removable. This end of the pump is called the pump cover. It’s shaped like a '6' or ‘9’ and may have a spongy filter attached to it. You can pull/pop this end straight off. Do not try to twist it off and do not pull by the filter otherwise you will rip it off. If you have trouble removing the pump cover, try prying it off using your fingernail, a butter knife, or flat-head screwdriver on the triangle of the second arrow from the right which is below the middle of the white label. Once removed, clean the inside of the cover. Rinse the filter regularly so that it does not become dirty enough to restrict the water flow. If you are missing the pump cover then you need to order a replacement.
IMPELLER (Part # ‘Impeller’, for pumps made in Thailand)
Underneath the pump cover is a circular magnetic impeller with two fins that spins on a silver metal pin. The pin is fixed and does not turn. Remove the magnetic impeller with pliers by pulling it straight off by one of the fins or get under it with something flat and lift it off. Make sure the pump housing and impeller are clean and that there is no sediment or scale build-up inside that would restrict it from turning easily. If you are missing the impeller then you need to order a replacement.
AIR (for Birdbath pump made in Thailand)
If the motor runs and the impeller spins on its own then re-attach the pump cover making sure that its snapped on securely all the way around. It may take a few minutes with the panel in direct sunlight to expel the air out of the pump before it starts pumping the water up to the solar panel. Don’t pour water down the tube to ‘help get the air out’ as this will only make it harder for the pump impeller to spin in the right direction.
OPTIMUM CONDITIONS & ORIENTATION (for standard integrated panels)
The solar panel needs to be placed outside in direct sunlight, not indoors behind a window or screen which will filter the light, and not under artificial lighting (i.e. fluorescent or halogen) which will not make it work. Chose a suitable outdoor location where there are no trees that will filter the sunlight. Even the smallest amount of shading reduces panel’s output significantly.
The weather needs to be clear, not hazy or partly cloudy. Just because it’s hot outside and the panel is hot when you touch it does not mean the fountain should be working. Most people assume that the hotter it is outside the better the fountain will work. This is a common misconception, because even though the amount of energy produced by a solar panel is proportional to the strength of the sunlight it receives (based on season), contrary to what you may expect, the higher the temperature of the solar panel the more its output actually decreases, not increases! Generally, temperatures around 68°F or 20°C (room temp) are ideal. You will see the best results in the spring and summer months when the hours between sunrise and sunset are the longest, and in the middle of the day when the sun is directly overhead. Sunlight in the early morning and late afternoon on a nice day (even though it’s bright) may not be strong enough to fully power the pump because the sun is at a low angle. Since you can’t tilt the solar panel because it’s integrated into the fountain it will be less efficient at this time. Also, sunlight throughout the entire day during the late autumn and winter may not be strong enough to fully power the pump.
The panel does not need time to charge before it works and it does not have a built-in battery pack so it will not store any energy. It operates in direct sunlight only.
SOLAR PANEL (for amorphous panels made in Thailand)
The glass on the solar panel needs to be cleaned regularly with a glass cleaner to prevent it from developing any algae, dirt or hard water scale build up that would potentially filter or block the sunlight that the solar panel needs to be able to absorb to power the pump. Once it’s clean the glass should be smooth to the touch, however you may still see some water stains. Make sure that the solar panel has no cracks in the glass. If the panel has any cracks then it needs to be replaced. Hold the panel in the sun, look through the glass, and check for any silver spots or subtle red blotchy areas inside the panel. This would be signs that water has gotten past the seal around the edge and inside the panel. If the panel has this type of discoloration then it needs to be replaced. However, if there’s just a faded area that is an even strip across the whole panel then that is normal and the panel is ok. Look at the underside of the solar panel where the wire is connected to it. Gently flex it back and forth and make sure that there are no breaks in the wire and it has not come away from the panel. If you can see a white or yellow wire exposed then the panel needs to be replaced. If the panel is clean, has no cracks, no discoloration, and no breaks in the wire then it should be functional.
SUBMERGED (universal, 2-tier with pump made in Thailand)
Make sure that the pump is fully submerged in the water. If the pump is running out of the water is running dry. This will eventually cause the pump to burn out. If you are missing a tube then your pump may be up too high inside the top tier and it may not be submerged in water. With both tubes installed, the top of the pump should be about 2-3 inches below the bung. If the top of your pump is less than 1 inch away from the bung (so you can just fit one finger in the gap) then you are missing a tube which means your pump is up too high and is not submerged in the water.
TUBE KIT (universal, 2-tier with pump made in Thailand)
All 2-tier fountains should come with a 2-tier tube kit, which includes two 2 inch tubes and a 2 inch wide foam rubber bung with a hole in the middle and a slit on the side. You need to make sure that the pump is securely attached to the 2 tubes that go up through the foam bung that seals the hole in the resin under the solar panel and that tube is also securely inserted into the bottom of the solar panel. If you are missing a tube then your pump may be up too high inside the top tier and it may not be submerged in water. With both tubes installed, the top of the pump should be about 1 ½ - 2 inches below the bung. If the top of your pump is less than 1 inch away from the bung or touching it, then you are missing a tube which means your pump is up too high and is not submerged in the water. If your pump swings around underneath or dangles on the wire then the tube is not connected. If you can walk up to the fountain and lift the solar panel up out of the top tier then the tube is not connected securely. The pump will not be able to push the water up through the tubes and the panel if they are all not connected properly. If any of the tubes are cracked you need to order a replacement tube kit (Part # ‘2090kit2’).
PUMP COVER (for pumps made in Thailand)
Hold the pump so you can read the white label. The top of the pump where the wire comes out is sealed. Do not attempt to open the top of the pump. There are 4 vertical bumps around the bottom of the pump that are shaped like arrows that point downward. The line that goes through all the arrows is where it separates. It is not sealed and is removable. This end of the pump is called the pump cover. It’s shaped like a '6' or ‘9’ and may have a spongy filter attached to it. You can pull/pop this end straight off. Do not try to twist it off and do not pull by the filter otherwise you will rip it off. If you have trouble removing the pump cover, try prying it off using your fingernail, a butter knife, or flat-head screwdriver on the triangle of the second arrow from the right which is below the middle of the white label. Once removed, clean the inside of the cover. Rinse the filter regularly so that it does not become dirty enough to restrict the water flow. If you are missing the pump cover then you need to order a replacement.
IMPELLER (Part # ‘Impeller’, for pumps made in Thailand)
Underneath the pump cover is a circular magnetic impeller with two fins that spins on a silver metal pin. The pin is fixed and does not turn. Remove the magnetic impeller with pliers by pulling it straight off by one of the fins or get under it with something flat and lift it off. Make sure the pump housing and impeller are clean and that there is no sediment or scale build-up inside that would restrict it from turning easily. If you are missing the impeller then you need to order a replacement.
AIR (for Birdbath pump made in Thailand)
If the motor runs and the impeller spins on its own then re-attach the pump cover making sure that its snapped on securely all the way around. It may take a few minutes with the panel in direct sunlight to expel the air out of the pump before it starts pumping the water up to the solar panel. Don’t pour water down the tube to ‘help get the air out’ as this will only make it harder for the pump impeller to spin in the right direction.
• My pump runs quietly but doesn’t pump. What do I do? (C)
Please review the troubleshooting information below:
OPTIMUM CONDITIONS & ORIENTATION (for standard integrated panels)
The solar panel needs to be placed outside in direct sunlight, not indoors behind a window or screen which will filter the light, and not under artificial lighting (i.e. fluorescent or halogen) which will not make it work. Chose a suitable outdoor location where there are no trees that will filter the sunlight. Even the smallest amount of shading reduces panel’s output significantly.
The weather needs to be clear, not hazy or partly cloudy. Just because it’s hot outside and the panel is hot when you touch it does not mean the fountain should be working. Most people assume that the hotter it is outside the better the fountain will work. This is a common misconception, because even though the amount of energy produced by a solar panel is proportional to the strength of the sunlight it receives (based on season), contrary to what you may expect, the higher the temperature of the solar panel the more its output actually decreases, not increases! Generally, temperatures around 68°F or 20°C (room temp) are ideal. You will see the best results in the spring and summer months when the hours between sunrise and sunset are the longest, and in the middle of the day when the sun is directly overhead. Sunlight in the early morning and late afternoon on a nice day (even though it’s bright) may not be strong enough to fully power the pump because the sun is at a low angle. Since you can’t tilt the solar panel because it’s integrated into the fountain it will be less efficient at this time. Also, sunlight throughout the entire day during the late autumn and winter may not be strong enough to fully power the pump.
The panel does not need time to charge before it works and it does not have a built-in battery pack so it will not store any energy. It operates in direct sunlight only.
SOLAR PANEL (for crystalline panels made in China)
The glass on the solar panel needs to be cleaned regularly with a glass cleaner to prevent it from developing any algae, dirt or scale build up that would potentially filter or block the sunlight that the solar panel needs to be able to absorb to power the pump. The surface of the glass is textured so even after it’s clean it won’t feel smooth. Make sure that the solar panel has no cracks in the glass. Look through the glass and check for any bubbles or air pockets inside the panel under the glass. If there’s a blue tint to some of the lines of solar cells that is normal. If the panel has any cracks or internal water damage then it needs to be replaced. Look at the underside of the solar panel where the wire is connected to it. Gently flex it back and forth and make sure that there are no breaks in the wire and it has not come away from the panel. If you can see a white or yellow wire exposed, a crack in the glass, or bubbles under the glass then you need to order a replacement. If the panel is clean and doesn’t have any cracks or spots then it should be functional.
SUBMERGED (universal, 2-tier with pump made in China)
Make sure that the pump is fully submerged in the water. If the pump is running out of the water is running dry. This will eventually cause the pump to burn out. If you are missing a tube then your pump may be up too high inside the top tier and it may not be submerged in water. With both tubes installed, the pump should be about 3 1/2 inches below the bung. If your pump is only about 1 inch away from the bung then you are missing a tube.
TUBE KIT (universal, 2-tier with pump made in China)
All 2-tier fountains should come with a 2-tier tube kit, which includes two 2 inch tubes and a 2 inch wide foam rubber bung with a hole in the middle and a slit on the side. You need to make sure that the pump is securely attached to the 2 tubes that go up through the foam bung that seals the hole in the resin under the solar panel and that tube is also securely inserted into the bottom of the solar panel. If you are missing a tube then your pump may be up too high inside the top tier and it may not be submerged in water. With both tubes installed, the pump should be about 3 1/2 inches below the bung. If your pump is only about 1 inch away from the bung then you are missing a tube and your pump is not submerged in water. If your pump swings around underneath or dangles on the wire then the tube is not connected. If you can walk up to the fountain and lift the solar panel up out of the top tier then the tube is not connected securely. The pump will not be able to push the water up through the tubes and the panel if they are all not connected properly. If any of the tubes are cracked you need to order a replacement tube kit (Part # ‘2090kit2’). Squeeze the pump and panel together to ensure everything is secure, but not hard enough that you crack one of the tubes.
PUMP COVER WITH FILTER (Part # ‘160xfk’, for pumps made in China)
Hold the pump so you can read the black label on the side. The left half of the pump has slits all around it. This end of the pump is the pump cover and it has a spongy filter inside of it. You can pull this end straight off. Do not try to twist it off. Once it’s off, remove the filter from the cover. Rinse the filter out and clean the slits on the cover. Rinse the filter regularly so that it does not become dirty enough to restrict the water flow. If you are missing the pump cover then you need to order replacement parts.
IMPELLER COVER (Part # ‘n/a’, for pumps made in China)
Underneath the pump cover is a piece with 3 prongs coming out of it, a hole in the middle and a spout at the top. This piece is the impeller cover. Through the hole in the center you can see the white impeller. Turn the cover clockwise from the 12 o’clock position to the 2 o’clock position and when the tabs on the pump body line up with the grooves on the cover it will come off. Do not try to pull the cover off without turning it first or you will break one of the tabs on the pump body off. Clean the inside of the impeller cover to make sure there is no sediment or scale build-up inside that would restrict the impeller from turning properly. If you are missing the impeller cover then you need to order replacement parts.
IMPELLER (Part # ‘n/a’, for pumps made in China)
Underneath the pump cover and the impeller cover is a white magnetic impeller with four fins that spins on a silver metal pin. The pin is fixed and does not turn. Remove the magnetic impeller by pinching one of the fins and pulling it straight off. If the fins on the impeller do not appear to be white then it is not clean. Make sure the impeller is clean and that there is no sediment or scale build-up on it that would restrict it from turning easily. If you are missing the impeller then you need to order replacement parts.
AIR (for Birdbath pump made in China)
If the motor begins to run and the impeller spins on its own then re-attach the impeller cover with spout and the pump cover with filter. Make sure the tube on the pump is connected to the bottom of the panel. Place the solar panel and pump back into the water. It may take a few minutes in direct sunlight before all the air is expelled and water begins to spray up through the solar panel. Don’t pour water down the tube to ‘help get the air out’ as this will only make it harder for the pump impeller to spin in the right direction.
OPTIMUM CONDITIONS & ORIENTATION (for standard integrated panels)
The solar panel needs to be placed outside in direct sunlight, not indoors behind a window or screen which will filter the light, and not under artificial lighting (i.e. fluorescent or halogen) which will not make it work. Chose a suitable outdoor location where there are no trees that will filter the sunlight. Even the smallest amount of shading reduces panel’s output significantly.
The weather needs to be clear, not hazy or partly cloudy. Just because it’s hot outside and the panel is hot when you touch it does not mean the fountain should be working. Most people assume that the hotter it is outside the better the fountain will work. This is a common misconception, because even though the amount of energy produced by a solar panel is proportional to the strength of the sunlight it receives (based on season), contrary to what you may expect, the higher the temperature of the solar panel the more its output actually decreases, not increases! Generally, temperatures around 68°F or 20°C (room temp) are ideal. You will see the best results in the spring and summer months when the hours between sunrise and sunset are the longest, and in the middle of the day when the sun is directly overhead. Sunlight in the early morning and late afternoon on a nice day (even though it’s bright) may not be strong enough to fully power the pump because the sun is at a low angle. Since you can’t tilt the solar panel because it’s integrated into the fountain it will be less efficient at this time. Also, sunlight throughout the entire day during the late autumn and winter may not be strong enough to fully power the pump.
The panel does not need time to charge before it works and it does not have a built-in battery pack so it will not store any energy. It operates in direct sunlight only.
SOLAR PANEL (for crystalline panels made in China)
The glass on the solar panel needs to be cleaned regularly with a glass cleaner to prevent it from developing any algae, dirt or scale build up that would potentially filter or block the sunlight that the solar panel needs to be able to absorb to power the pump. The surface of the glass is textured so even after it’s clean it won’t feel smooth. Make sure that the solar panel has no cracks in the glass. Look through the glass and check for any bubbles or air pockets inside the panel under the glass. If there’s a blue tint to some of the lines of solar cells that is normal. If the panel has any cracks or internal water damage then it needs to be replaced. Look at the underside of the solar panel where the wire is connected to it. Gently flex it back and forth and make sure that there are no breaks in the wire and it has not come away from the panel. If you can see a white or yellow wire exposed, a crack in the glass, or bubbles under the glass then you need to order a replacement. If the panel is clean and doesn’t have any cracks or spots then it should be functional.
SUBMERGED (universal, 2-tier with pump made in China)
Make sure that the pump is fully submerged in the water. If the pump is running out of the water is running dry. This will eventually cause the pump to burn out. If you are missing a tube then your pump may be up too high inside the top tier and it may not be submerged in water. With both tubes installed, the pump should be about 3 1/2 inches below the bung. If your pump is only about 1 inch away from the bung then you are missing a tube.
TUBE KIT (universal, 2-tier with pump made in China)
All 2-tier fountains should come with a 2-tier tube kit, which includes two 2 inch tubes and a 2 inch wide foam rubber bung with a hole in the middle and a slit on the side. You need to make sure that the pump is securely attached to the 2 tubes that go up through the foam bung that seals the hole in the resin under the solar panel and that tube is also securely inserted into the bottom of the solar panel. If you are missing a tube then your pump may be up too high inside the top tier and it may not be submerged in water. With both tubes installed, the pump should be about 3 1/2 inches below the bung. If your pump is only about 1 inch away from the bung then you are missing a tube and your pump is not submerged in water. If your pump swings around underneath or dangles on the wire then the tube is not connected. If you can walk up to the fountain and lift the solar panel up out of the top tier then the tube is not connected securely. The pump will not be able to push the water up through the tubes and the panel if they are all not connected properly. If any of the tubes are cracked you need to order a replacement tube kit (Part # ‘2090kit2’). Squeeze the pump and panel together to ensure everything is secure, but not hard enough that you crack one of the tubes.
PUMP COVER WITH FILTER (Part # ‘160xfk’, for pumps made in China)
Hold the pump so you can read the black label on the side. The left half of the pump has slits all around it. This end of the pump is the pump cover and it has a spongy filter inside of it. You can pull this end straight off. Do not try to twist it off. Once it’s off, remove the filter from the cover. Rinse the filter out and clean the slits on the cover. Rinse the filter regularly so that it does not become dirty enough to restrict the water flow. If you are missing the pump cover then you need to order replacement parts.
IMPELLER COVER (Part # ‘n/a’, for pumps made in China)
Underneath the pump cover is a piece with 3 prongs coming out of it, a hole in the middle and a spout at the top. This piece is the impeller cover. Through the hole in the center you can see the white impeller. Turn the cover clockwise from the 12 o’clock position to the 2 o’clock position and when the tabs on the pump body line up with the grooves on the cover it will come off. Do not try to pull the cover off without turning it first or you will break one of the tabs on the pump body off. Clean the inside of the impeller cover to make sure there is no sediment or scale build-up inside that would restrict the impeller from turning properly. If you are missing the impeller cover then you need to order replacement parts.
IMPELLER (Part # ‘n/a’, for pumps made in China)
Underneath the pump cover and the impeller cover is a white magnetic impeller with four fins that spins on a silver metal pin. The pin is fixed and does not turn. Remove the magnetic impeller by pinching one of the fins and pulling it straight off. If the fins on the impeller do not appear to be white then it is not clean. Make sure the impeller is clean and that there is no sediment or scale build-up on it that would restrict it from turning easily. If you are missing the impeller then you need to order replacement parts.
AIR (for Birdbath pump made in China)
If the motor begins to run and the impeller spins on its own then re-attach the impeller cover with spout and the pump cover with filter. Make sure the tube on the pump is connected to the bottom of the panel. Place the solar panel and pump back into the water. It may take a few minutes in direct sunlight before all the air is expelled and water begins to spray up through the solar panel. Don’t pour water down the tube to ‘help get the air out’ as this will only make it harder for the pump impeller to spin in the right direction.
• My pump runs very loudly and doesn’t pump. What do I do? (T)
Please review the troubleshooting information below:
SUBMERGED (universal, 2-tier with pump made in Thailand)
Make sure that the pump is fully submerged in the water. If the pump is running out of the water is running dry. This will eventually cause the pump to burn out. If you are missing a tube then your pump may be up too high inside the top tier and it may not be submerged in water. With both tubes installed, the top of the pump should be about 2-3 inches below the bung. If the top of your pump is less than 1 inch away from the bung (so you can just fit one finger in the gap) then you are missing a tube which means your pump is up too high and is not submerged in the water.
TUBE KIT (universal, 2-tier with pump made in Thailand)
All 2-tier fountains should come with a 2-tier tube kit, which includes two 2 inch tubes and a 2 inch wide foam rubber bung with a hole in the middle and a slit on the side. You need to make sure that the pump is securely attached to the 2 tubes that go up through the foam bung that seals the hole in the resin under the solar panel and that tube is also securely inserted into the bottom of the solar panel. If you are missing a tube then your pump may be up too high inside the top tier and it may not be submerged in water. With both tubes installed, the top of the pump should be about 1 ½ - 2 inches below the bung. If the top of your pump is less than 1 inch away from the bung or touching it, then you are missing a tube which means your pump is up too high and is not submerged in the water. If your pump swings around underneath or dangles on the wire then the tube is not connected. If you can walk up to the fountain and lift the solar panel up out of the top tier then the tube is not connected securely. The pump will not be able to push the water up through the tubes and the panel if they are all not connected properly. If any of the tubes are cracked you need to order a replacement tube kit (Part # ‘2090kit2’).
PUMP COVER (for pumps made in Thailand)
Hold the pump so you can read the white label. The top of the pump where the wire comes out is sealed. Do not attempt to open the top of the pump. There are 4 vertical bumps around the bottom of the pump that are shaped like arrows that point downward. The line that goes through all the arrows is where it separates. It is not sealed and is removable. This end of the pump is called the pump cover. It’s shaped like a '6' or ‘9’ and may have a spongy filter attached to it. You can pull/pop this end straight off. Do not try to twist it off and do not pull by the filter otherwise you will rip it off. If you have trouble removing the pump cover, try prying it off using your fingernail, a butter knife, or flat-head screwdriver on the triangle of the second arrow from the right which is below the middle of the white label. Once removed, clean the inside of the cover. Rinse the filter regularly so that it does not become dirty enough to restrict the water flow. If you can touch the impeller already then you are missing the pump cover and need to order a replacement.
IMPELLER (Part # ‘Impeller’, for pumps made in Thailand)
Underneath the pump cover is a circular magnetic impeller with two fins that spins on a silver metal pin. The pin is fixed and does not turn. Remove the magnetic impeller with pliers by pinching one of the fins and pulling it straight off or get under it with something flat and lift it off. Make sure the pump housing and impeller are clean and that there is no sediment or scale build-up inside that would restrict it from turning easily. If you are missing the impeller then you need to order replacement parts.
MOTOR (for pump made in Thailand)
Leave the pump cover and impeller off of the pump and allow the pump to run. The motor should make a smooth and quiet humming noise. If so, then the motor is functioning properly. If the motor makes a loud noise without the pump cover and impeller attached then there is a problem internally with the motor and you will need to order a replacement pump. Disconnect or cover the solar panel so that the motor stops running and re-attach the impeller and pump cover, making sure that the 2 fins on the impeller face you and the cover is snapped on securely all the way around. If the motor runs normally for a few seconds and then stops pumping and runs loudly, this is referred to as de-coupling. If you are experiencing de-coupling please contact us for a replacement pump.
DE-COUPLING (for pump made in Thailand)
In order to improve the performance of the pump in low light or partly cloudy conditions, upgrades were made in 2006 to the solar panels that were made in Thailand. The pump needs a certain amount of energy before it can start working. The solar panel builds up energy for approximately 5-10 seconds in a capacitor and then gives the pump a boost in order to get it running, instead of having to remove the pump cover and turn the impeller to manually with your finger to start it. In rare conditions where the sun is very strong, the internal motor magnet will spin too quickly for the impeller. If the magnetic impeller cannot spin as fast as the motor magnet it will not be aligned and end up pushing away from the motor and make contact with the pump cover. This causes the pump stop pumping, but it continues to run and starts making a loud noise because the impeller is hitting the cover. We refer to this as ‘de-coupling’. The motor needs to be stopped before the impeller will reseat itself in the proper position.
Please note that de-coupling may only occur with pumps that were made in Thailand when used in certain areas of the country that receive very strong sunlight during the peak summer days. It will not occur during the winter, spring or autumn in the same regions.
SUBMERGED (universal, 2-tier with pump made in Thailand)
Make sure that the pump is fully submerged in the water. If the pump is running out of the water is running dry. This will eventually cause the pump to burn out. If you are missing a tube then your pump may be up too high inside the top tier and it may not be submerged in water. With both tubes installed, the top of the pump should be about 2-3 inches below the bung. If the top of your pump is less than 1 inch away from the bung (so you can just fit one finger in the gap) then you are missing a tube which means your pump is up too high and is not submerged in the water.
TUBE KIT (universal, 2-tier with pump made in Thailand)
All 2-tier fountains should come with a 2-tier tube kit, which includes two 2 inch tubes and a 2 inch wide foam rubber bung with a hole in the middle and a slit on the side. You need to make sure that the pump is securely attached to the 2 tubes that go up through the foam bung that seals the hole in the resin under the solar panel and that tube is also securely inserted into the bottom of the solar panel. If you are missing a tube then your pump may be up too high inside the top tier and it may not be submerged in water. With both tubes installed, the top of the pump should be about 1 ½ - 2 inches below the bung. If the top of your pump is less than 1 inch away from the bung or touching it, then you are missing a tube which means your pump is up too high and is not submerged in the water. If your pump swings around underneath or dangles on the wire then the tube is not connected. If you can walk up to the fountain and lift the solar panel up out of the top tier then the tube is not connected securely. The pump will not be able to push the water up through the tubes and the panel if they are all not connected properly. If any of the tubes are cracked you need to order a replacement tube kit (Part # ‘2090kit2’).
PUMP COVER (for pumps made in Thailand)
Hold the pump so you can read the white label. The top of the pump where the wire comes out is sealed. Do not attempt to open the top of the pump. There are 4 vertical bumps around the bottom of the pump that are shaped like arrows that point downward. The line that goes through all the arrows is where it separates. It is not sealed and is removable. This end of the pump is called the pump cover. It’s shaped like a '6' or ‘9’ and may have a spongy filter attached to it. You can pull/pop this end straight off. Do not try to twist it off and do not pull by the filter otherwise you will rip it off. If you have trouble removing the pump cover, try prying it off using your fingernail, a butter knife, or flat-head screwdriver on the triangle of the second arrow from the right which is below the middle of the white label. Once removed, clean the inside of the cover. Rinse the filter regularly so that it does not become dirty enough to restrict the water flow. If you can touch the impeller already then you are missing the pump cover and need to order a replacement.
IMPELLER (Part # ‘Impeller’, for pumps made in Thailand)
Underneath the pump cover is a circular magnetic impeller with two fins that spins on a silver metal pin. The pin is fixed and does not turn. Remove the magnetic impeller with pliers by pinching one of the fins and pulling it straight off or get under it with something flat and lift it off. Make sure the pump housing and impeller are clean and that there is no sediment or scale build-up inside that would restrict it from turning easily. If you are missing the impeller then you need to order replacement parts.
MOTOR (for pump made in Thailand)
Leave the pump cover and impeller off of the pump and allow the pump to run. The motor should make a smooth and quiet humming noise. If so, then the motor is functioning properly. If the motor makes a loud noise without the pump cover and impeller attached then there is a problem internally with the motor and you will need to order a replacement pump. Disconnect or cover the solar panel so that the motor stops running and re-attach the impeller and pump cover, making sure that the 2 fins on the impeller face you and the cover is snapped on securely all the way around. If the motor runs normally for a few seconds and then stops pumping and runs loudly, this is referred to as de-coupling. If you are experiencing de-coupling please contact us for a replacement pump.
DE-COUPLING (for pump made in Thailand)
In order to improve the performance of the pump in low light or partly cloudy conditions, upgrades were made in 2006 to the solar panels that were made in Thailand. The pump needs a certain amount of energy before it can start working. The solar panel builds up energy for approximately 5-10 seconds in a capacitor and then gives the pump a boost in order to get it running, instead of having to remove the pump cover and turn the impeller to manually with your finger to start it. In rare conditions where the sun is very strong, the internal motor magnet will spin too quickly for the impeller. If the magnetic impeller cannot spin as fast as the motor magnet it will not be aligned and end up pushing away from the motor and make contact with the pump cover. This causes the pump stop pumping, but it continues to run and starts making a loud noise because the impeller is hitting the cover. We refer to this as ‘de-coupling’. The motor needs to be stopped before the impeller will reseat itself in the proper position.
Please note that de-coupling may only occur with pumps that were made in Thailand when used in certain areas of the country that receive very strong sunlight during the peak summer days. It will not occur during the winter, spring or autumn in the same regions.
• My pump runs very loudly and doesn’t pump. What do I do? (C)
Please review the troubleshooting information below:
SUBMERGED (universal, 2-tier with pump made in China)
Make sure that the pump is fully submerged in the water. If the pump is running out of the water is running dry. This will eventually cause the pump to burn out. If you are missing a tube then your pump may be up too high inside the top tier and it may not be submerged in water. With both tubes installed, the pump should be about 3 1/2 inches below the bung. If your pump is only about 1 inch away from the bung then you are missing a tube.
TUBE KIT (universal, 2-tier with pump made in China)
All 2-tier fountains should come with a 2-tier tube kit, which includes two 2 inch tubes and a 2 inch wide foam rubber bung with a hole in the middle and a slit on the side. You need to make sure that the pump is securely attached to the 2 tubes that go up through the foam bung that seals the hole in the resin under the solar panel and that tube is also securely inserted into the bottom of the solar panel. If you are missing a tube then your pump may be up too high inside the top tier and it may not be submerged in water. With both tubes installed, the pump should be about 3 1/2 inches below the bung. If your pump is only about 1 inch away from the bung then you are missing a tube and your pump is not submerged in water. If your pump swings around underneath or dangles on the wire then the tube is not connected. If you can walk up to the fountain and lift the solar panel up out of the top tier then the tube is not connected securely. The pump will not be able to push the water up through the tubes and the panel if they are all not connected properly. If any of the tubes are cracked you need to order a replacement tube kit (Part # ‘2090kit2’). Squeeze the pump and panel together to ensure everything is secure, but not hard enough that you crack one of the tubes.
PUMP COVER WITH FILTER (Part # ‘160xfk’, for pumps made in China)
Hold the pump so you can read the black label on the side. The left half of the pump has slits all around it. This end of the pump is the pump cover and it has a spongy filter inside of it. You can pull this end straight off. Do not try to twist it off. Once it’s off, remove the filter from the cover. Rinse the filter out and clean the slits on the cover. Rinse the filter regularly so that it does not become dirty enough to restrict the water flow. If you are missing the pump cover then you need to order replacement parts.
IMPELLER COVER (Part # ‘n/a’, for pumps made in China)
Underneath the pump cover is a piece with 3 prongs coming out of it, a hole in the middle and a spout at the top. This piece is the impeller cover. Through the hole in the center you can see the white impeller. Turn the cover clockwise from the 12 o’clock position to the 2 o’clock position and when the tabs on the pump body line up with the grooves on the cover it will come off. Do not try to pull the cover off without turning it first or you will break one of the tabs on the pump body off. Clean the inside of the impeller cover to make sure there is no sediment or scale build-up inside that would restrict the impeller from turning properly. If you are missing the impeller cover then you need to order replacement parts.
IMPELLER (Part # ‘n/a’, for pumps made in China)
Underneath the pump cover and the impeller cover is a white magnetic impeller with four fins that spins on a silver metal pin. The pin is fixed and does not turn. Remove the magnetic impeller by pinching one of the fins and pulling it straight off. If the fins on the impeller do not appear to be white then it is not clean. Make sure the impeller is clean and that there is no sediment or scale build-up on it that would restrict it from turning easily. If you are missing the impeller then you need to order replacement parts.
MOTOR (for pumps made in China)
Leave the pump cover and impeller cover and impeller off of the pump. The motor should not make any noise or vibration at all while it’s running. It should appear to do nothing without the impeller. If so, then the motor is functioning properly.
SUBMERGED (universal, 2-tier with pump made in China)
Make sure that the pump is fully submerged in the water. If the pump is running out of the water is running dry. This will eventually cause the pump to burn out. If you are missing a tube then your pump may be up too high inside the top tier and it may not be submerged in water. With both tubes installed, the pump should be about 3 1/2 inches below the bung. If your pump is only about 1 inch away from the bung then you are missing a tube.
TUBE KIT (universal, 2-tier with pump made in China)
All 2-tier fountains should come with a 2-tier tube kit, which includes two 2 inch tubes and a 2 inch wide foam rubber bung with a hole in the middle and a slit on the side. You need to make sure that the pump is securely attached to the 2 tubes that go up through the foam bung that seals the hole in the resin under the solar panel and that tube is also securely inserted into the bottom of the solar panel. If you are missing a tube then your pump may be up too high inside the top tier and it may not be submerged in water. With both tubes installed, the pump should be about 3 1/2 inches below the bung. If your pump is only about 1 inch away from the bung then you are missing a tube and your pump is not submerged in water. If your pump swings around underneath or dangles on the wire then the tube is not connected. If you can walk up to the fountain and lift the solar panel up out of the top tier then the tube is not connected securely. The pump will not be able to push the water up through the tubes and the panel if they are all not connected properly. If any of the tubes are cracked you need to order a replacement tube kit (Part # ‘2090kit2’). Squeeze the pump and panel together to ensure everything is secure, but not hard enough that you crack one of the tubes.
PUMP COVER WITH FILTER (Part # ‘160xfk’, for pumps made in China)
Hold the pump so you can read the black label on the side. The left half of the pump has slits all around it. This end of the pump is the pump cover and it has a spongy filter inside of it. You can pull this end straight off. Do not try to twist it off. Once it’s off, remove the filter from the cover. Rinse the filter out and clean the slits on the cover. Rinse the filter regularly so that it does not become dirty enough to restrict the water flow. If you are missing the pump cover then you need to order replacement parts.
IMPELLER COVER (Part # ‘n/a’, for pumps made in China)
Underneath the pump cover is a piece with 3 prongs coming out of it, a hole in the middle and a spout at the top. This piece is the impeller cover. Through the hole in the center you can see the white impeller. Turn the cover clockwise from the 12 o’clock position to the 2 o’clock position and when the tabs on the pump body line up with the grooves on the cover it will come off. Do not try to pull the cover off without turning it first or you will break one of the tabs on the pump body off. Clean the inside of the impeller cover to make sure there is no sediment or scale build-up inside that would restrict the impeller from turning properly. If you are missing the impeller cover then you need to order replacement parts.
IMPELLER (Part # ‘n/a’, for pumps made in China)
Underneath the pump cover and the impeller cover is a white magnetic impeller with four fins that spins on a silver metal pin. The pin is fixed and does not turn. Remove the magnetic impeller by pinching one of the fins and pulling it straight off. If the fins on the impeller do not appear to be white then it is not clean. Make sure the impeller is clean and that there is no sediment or scale build-up on it that would restrict it from turning easily. If you are missing the impeller then you need to order replacement parts.
MOTOR (for pumps made in China)
Leave the pump cover and impeller cover and impeller off of the pump. The motor should not make any noise or vibration at all while it’s running. It should appear to do nothing without the impeller. If so, then the motor is functioning properly.
• My pump is not running at all. What do I do? (T)
Please review the troubleshooting information below:
OPTIMUM CONDITIONS & ORIENTATION (for standard integrated panels)
The solar panel needs to be placed outside in direct sunlight, not indoors behind a window or screen which will filter the light, and not under artificial lighting (i.e. fluorescent or halogen) which will not make it work. Chose a suitable outdoor location where there are no trees that will filter the sunlight. Even the smallest amount of shading reduces panel’s output significantly.
The weather needs to be clear, not hazy or partly cloudy. Just because it’s hot outside and the panel is hot when you touch it does not mean the fountain should be working. Most people assume that the hotter it is outside the better the fountain will work. This is a common misconception, because even though the amount of energy produced by a solar panel is proportional to the strength of the sunlight it receives (based on season), contrary to what you may expect, the higher the temperature of the solar panel the more its output actually decreases, not increases! Generally, temperatures around 68°F or 20°C (room temp) are ideal. You will see the best results in the spring and summer months when the hours between sunrise and sunset are the longest, and in the middle of the day when the sun is directly overhead. Sunlight in the early morning and late afternoon on a nice day (even though it’s bright) may not be strong enough to fully power the pump because the sun is at a low angle. Since you can’t tilt the solar panel because it’s integrated into the fountain it will be less efficient at this time. Also, sunlight throughout the entire day during the late autumn and winter may not be strong enough to fully power the pump.
The panel does not need time to charge before it works and it does not have a built-in battery pack so it will not store any energy. It operates in direct sunlight only.
SOLAR PANEL (for amorphous panels made in Thailand)
The glass on the solar panel needs to be cleaned regularly with a glass cleaner to prevent it from developing any algae, dirt or hard water scale build up that would potentially filter or block the sunlight that the solar panel needs to be able to absorb to power the pump. Once it’s clean the glass should be smooth to the touch, however you may still see some water stains. Make sure that the solar panel has no cracks in the glass. If the panel has any cracks then it needs to be replaced. Hold the panel in the sun, look through the glass, and check for any silver spots or subtle red blotchy areas inside the panel. This would be signs that water has gotten past the seal around the edge and inside the panel. If the panel has this type of discoloration then it needs to be replaced. However, if there’s just a faded area that is an even strip across the whole panel then that is normal and the panel is ok. Look at the underside of the solar panel where the wire is connected to it. Gently flex it back and forth and make sure that there are no breaks in the wire and it has not come away from the panel. If you can see a white or yellow wire exposed then the panel needs to be replaced. If the panel is clean, has no cracks, no discoloration, and no breaks in the wire then it should be functional.
CONNECTION (universal)
Unplug the wire that connects the solar panel to the pump by pulling them apart. Check for any green or white build-up or corrosion on & in the silver plugs. This would be a sign that water got into the connection because it was not water tight. If there is any build-up in the plugs they will need to be cleaned and dried off before re-connecting them. If there is a lot of build up or rust on the silver plugs then the solar panel or pump or both might need to be replaced. Inspect the black or yellow or red rubber o-ring on the solar panel plug. If the o-ring is cracked or deteriorated then it needs to be replaced. If you are missing the o-ring then you will have an empty groove around the plug and you need to order a replacement. If the o-ring is ok then reconnect the plugs again. Be sure to twist them as you push them together until the entire black or yellow or red rubber o-ring on the solar panel plug is covered all the way around and inside the sleeve of the pump plug to ensure a water-tight connection. If you look at the plugs when it’s flat on a table you should not be able to see the o-ring.
PUMP COVER (for pumps made in Thailand)
Hold the pump so you can read the white label. The top of the pump where the wire comes out is sealed. Do not attempt to open the top of the pump. There are 4 vertical bumps around the bottom of the pump that are shaped like arrows that point downward. The line that goes through all the arrows is where it separates. It is not sealed and is removable. This end of the pump is called the pump cover. It’s shaped like a '6' or ‘9’ and may have a spongy filter attached to it. You can pull/pop this end straight off. Do not try to twist it off and do not pull by the filter otherwise you will rip it off. If you have trouble removing the pump cover, try prying it off using your fingernail, a butter knife, or flat-head screwdriver on the triangle of the second arrow from the right which is below the middle of the white label. Once removed, clean the inside of the cover. Rinse the filter regularly so that it does not become dirty enough to restrict the water flow. If you are missing the pump cover then you need to order a replacement.
IMPELLER (Part # ‘Impeller’, for pumps made in Thailand)
Underneath the pump cover is a circular magnetic impeller with two fins that spins on a silver metal pin. The pin is fixed and does not turn. Remove the magnetic impeller with pliers by pulling it straight off by one of the fins or get under it with something flat and lift it off. Make sure the pump housing and impeller are clean and that there is no sediment or scale build-up inside that would restrict it from turning easily. If you are missing the impeller then you need to order a replacement.
MANUAL START (universal)
If the impeller does not turn on its own, try manually starting the pump. To do so, take the pump and solar panel outside and make sure the connection is correct. The pump does not have to be in water for a manual start. Hold it up in the air and while facing the solar panel toward direct sunlight, turn the impeller clock-wise with your finger. Please note that attempting to try a manual start outside when it’s cloudy or indoors by holding the solar panel under a light in your house will not work. You must be outside in direct sunlight, not behind a window or screen.
AIR (for 2-Tier with pump made in Thailand)
If the motor begins to run and the impeller spins on its own then re-attach the impeller and the pump cover with filter. Make sure the tube on the pump is connected to the tube kit and the tube kit is securely inserted into the hole in the bottom of the panel. Place the top tier into the main bowl of water. It may take a few minutes in direct sunlight before all the air is expelled and water begins to spray up through the solar panel. Don’t pour water down the tube to ‘help get the air out’ as this will only make it harder for the pump impeller to spin in the right direction.
OPTIMUM CONDITIONS & ORIENTATION (for standard integrated panels)
The solar panel needs to be placed outside in direct sunlight, not indoors behind a window or screen which will filter the light, and not under artificial lighting (i.e. fluorescent or halogen) which will not make it work. Chose a suitable outdoor location where there are no trees that will filter the sunlight. Even the smallest amount of shading reduces panel’s output significantly.
The weather needs to be clear, not hazy or partly cloudy. Just because it’s hot outside and the panel is hot when you touch it does not mean the fountain should be working. Most people assume that the hotter it is outside the better the fountain will work. This is a common misconception, because even though the amount of energy produced by a solar panel is proportional to the strength of the sunlight it receives (based on season), contrary to what you may expect, the higher the temperature of the solar panel the more its output actually decreases, not increases! Generally, temperatures around 68°F or 20°C (room temp) are ideal. You will see the best results in the spring and summer months when the hours between sunrise and sunset are the longest, and in the middle of the day when the sun is directly overhead. Sunlight in the early morning and late afternoon on a nice day (even though it’s bright) may not be strong enough to fully power the pump because the sun is at a low angle. Since you can’t tilt the solar panel because it’s integrated into the fountain it will be less efficient at this time. Also, sunlight throughout the entire day during the late autumn and winter may not be strong enough to fully power the pump.
The panel does not need time to charge before it works and it does not have a built-in battery pack so it will not store any energy. It operates in direct sunlight only.
SOLAR PANEL (for amorphous panels made in Thailand)
The glass on the solar panel needs to be cleaned regularly with a glass cleaner to prevent it from developing any algae, dirt or hard water scale build up that would potentially filter or block the sunlight that the solar panel needs to be able to absorb to power the pump. Once it’s clean the glass should be smooth to the touch, however you may still see some water stains. Make sure that the solar panel has no cracks in the glass. If the panel has any cracks then it needs to be replaced. Hold the panel in the sun, look through the glass, and check for any silver spots or subtle red blotchy areas inside the panel. This would be signs that water has gotten past the seal around the edge and inside the panel. If the panel has this type of discoloration then it needs to be replaced. However, if there’s just a faded area that is an even strip across the whole panel then that is normal and the panel is ok. Look at the underside of the solar panel where the wire is connected to it. Gently flex it back and forth and make sure that there are no breaks in the wire and it has not come away from the panel. If you can see a white or yellow wire exposed then the panel needs to be replaced. If the panel is clean, has no cracks, no discoloration, and no breaks in the wire then it should be functional.
CONNECTION (universal)
Unplug the wire that connects the solar panel to the pump by pulling them apart. Check for any green or white build-up or corrosion on & in the silver plugs. This would be a sign that water got into the connection because it was not water tight. If there is any build-up in the plugs they will need to be cleaned and dried off before re-connecting them. If there is a lot of build up or rust on the silver plugs then the solar panel or pump or both might need to be replaced. Inspect the black or yellow or red rubber o-ring on the solar panel plug. If the o-ring is cracked or deteriorated then it needs to be replaced. If you are missing the o-ring then you will have an empty groove around the plug and you need to order a replacement. If the o-ring is ok then reconnect the plugs again. Be sure to twist them as you push them together until the entire black or yellow or red rubber o-ring on the solar panel plug is covered all the way around and inside the sleeve of the pump plug to ensure a water-tight connection. If you look at the plugs when it’s flat on a table you should not be able to see the o-ring.
PUMP COVER (for pumps made in Thailand)
Hold the pump so you can read the white label. The top of the pump where the wire comes out is sealed. Do not attempt to open the top of the pump. There are 4 vertical bumps around the bottom of the pump that are shaped like arrows that point downward. The line that goes through all the arrows is where it separates. It is not sealed and is removable. This end of the pump is called the pump cover. It’s shaped like a '6' or ‘9’ and may have a spongy filter attached to it. You can pull/pop this end straight off. Do not try to twist it off and do not pull by the filter otherwise you will rip it off. If you have trouble removing the pump cover, try prying it off using your fingernail, a butter knife, or flat-head screwdriver on the triangle of the second arrow from the right which is below the middle of the white label. Once removed, clean the inside of the cover. Rinse the filter regularly so that it does not become dirty enough to restrict the water flow. If you are missing the pump cover then you need to order a replacement.
IMPELLER (Part # ‘Impeller’, for pumps made in Thailand)
Underneath the pump cover is a circular magnetic impeller with two fins that spins on a silver metal pin. The pin is fixed and does not turn. Remove the magnetic impeller with pliers by pulling it straight off by one of the fins or get under it with something flat and lift it off. Make sure the pump housing and impeller are clean and that there is no sediment or scale build-up inside that would restrict it from turning easily. If you are missing the impeller then you need to order a replacement.
MANUAL START (universal)
If the impeller does not turn on its own, try manually starting the pump. To do so, take the pump and solar panel outside and make sure the connection is correct. The pump does not have to be in water for a manual start. Hold it up in the air and while facing the solar panel toward direct sunlight, turn the impeller clock-wise with your finger. Please note that attempting to try a manual start outside when it’s cloudy or indoors by holding the solar panel under a light in your house will not work. You must be outside in direct sunlight, not behind a window or screen.
AIR (for 2-Tier with pump made in Thailand)
If the motor begins to run and the impeller spins on its own then re-attach the impeller and the pump cover with filter. Make sure the tube on the pump is connected to the tube kit and the tube kit is securely inserted into the hole in the bottom of the panel. Place the top tier into the main bowl of water. It may take a few minutes in direct sunlight before all the air is expelled and water begins to spray up through the solar panel. Don’t pour water down the tube to ‘help get the air out’ as this will only make it harder for the pump impeller to spin in the right direction.
• My pump is not running at all. What do I do? (C)
Please review the troubleshooting information below:
OPTIMUM CONDITIONS & ORIENTATION (for standard integrated panels)
The solar panel needs to be placed outside in direct sunlight, not indoors behind a window or screen which will filter the light, and not under artificial lighting (i.e. fluorescent or halogen) which will not make it work. Chose a suitable outdoor location where there are no trees that will filter the sunlight. Even the smallest amount of shading reduces panel’s output significantly.
The weather needs to be clear, not hazy or partly cloudy. Just because it’s hot outside and the panel is hot when you touch it does not mean the fountain should be working. Most people assume that the hotter it is outside the better the fountain will work. This is a common misconception, because even though the amount of energy produced by a solar panel is proportional to the strength of the sunlight it receives (based on season), contrary to what you may expect, the higher the temperature of the solar panel the more its output actually decreases, not increases! Generally, temperatures around 68°F or 20°C (room temp) are ideal. You will see the best results in the spring and summer months when the hours between sunrise and sunset are the longest, and in the middle of the day when the sun is directly overhead. Sunlight in the early morning and late afternoon on a nice day (even though it’s bright) may not be strong enough to fully power the pump because the sun is at a low angle. Since you can’t tilt the solar panel because it’s integrated into the fountain it will be less efficient at this time. Also, sunlight throughout the entire day during the late autumn and winter may not be strong enough to fully power the pump.
The panel does not need time to charge before it works and it does not have a built-in battery pack so it will not store any energy. It operates in direct sunlight only.
SOLAR PANEL (for crystalline panels made in China)
The glass on the solar panel needs to be cleaned regularly with a glass cleaner to prevent it from developing any algae, dirt or scale build up that would potentially filter or block the sunlight that the solar panel needs to be able to absorb to power the pump. The surface of the glass is textured so even after it’s clean it won’t feel smooth. Make sure that the solar panel has no cracks in the glass. Look through the glass and check for any bubbles or air pockets inside the panel under the glass. If there’s a blue tint to some of the lines of solar cells that is normal. If the panel has any cracks or internal water damage then it needs to be replaced. Look at the underside of the solar panel where the wire is connected to it. Gently flex it back and forth and make sure that there are no breaks in the wire and it has not come away from the panel. If you can see a white or yellow wire exposed, a crack in the glass, or bubbles under the glass then you need to order a replacement. If the panel is clean and doesn’t have any cracks or spots then it should be functional.
CONNECTION (for panels made in China)
Unplug the wire that connects the solar panel to the pump by pulling them apart. Check for any green or white build-up or corrosion on & in the silver plugs. This would be a sign that water got into the connection because it was not water tight. If there is any build-up in the plugs they will need to be cleaned and dried off before re-connecting them. If there is a lot of build up or rust on the silver plugs then the solar panel or pump or both might need to be replaced. Inspect the red rubber o-ring on the solar panel plug. If the o-ring is cracked or deteriorated then it needs to be replaced. If you are missing the o-ring then you will have an empty groove around the plug and you need to order a replacement. If the o-ring is ok then reconnect the plugs again. Be sure to twist them as you push them together until the entire o-ring on the solar panel plug is covered all the way around and inside the sleeve of the pump plug to ensure a water-tight connection. If you look at the plugs when it’s flat on a table you should not be able to see the o-ring.
PUMP COVER WITH FILTER (Part # ‘160xfk’, for pumps made in China)
Hold the pump so you can read the black label on the side. The left half of the pump has slits all around it. This end of the pump is the pump cover and it has a spongy filter inside of it. You can pull this end straight off. Do not try to twist it off. Once it’s off, remove the filter from the cover. Rinse the filter out and clean the slits on the cover. Rinse the filter regularly so that it does not become dirty enough to restrict the water flow. If you are missing the pump cover then you need to order replacement parts.
IMPELLER COVER (Part # ‘n/a’, for pumps made in China)
Underneath the pump cover is a piece with 3 prongs coming out of it, a hole in the middle and a spout at the top. This piece is the impeller cover. Through the hole in the center you can see the white impeller. Turn the cover clockwise from the 12 o’clock position to the 2 o’clock position and when the tabs on the pump body line up with the grooves on the cover it will come off. Do not try to pull the cover off without turning it first or you will break one of the tabs on the pump body off. Clean the inside of the impeller cover to make sure there is no sediment or scale build-up inside that would restrict the impeller from turning properly. If you are missing the impeller cover then you need to order replacement parts.
IMPELLER (Part # ‘n/a’, for pumps made in China)
Underneath the pump cover and the impeller cover is a white magnetic impeller with four fins that spins on a silver metal pin. The pin is fixed and does not turn. Remove the magnetic impeller by pinching one of the fins and pulling it straight off. If the fins on the impeller do not appear to be white then it is not clean. Make sure the impeller is clean and that there is no sediment or scale build-up on it that would restrict it from turning easily. If you are missing the impeller then you need to order replacement parts.
MANUAL START (universal)
If the impeller does not turn on its own, try manually starting the pump. To do so, take the pump and solar panel outside and make sure the connection is correct. The pump does not have to be in water for a manual start. Hold it up in the air and while facing the solar panel toward direct sunlight, turn the impeller clock-wise with your finger. Please note that attempting to try a manual start outside when it’s cloudy or indoors by holding the solar panel under a light in your house will not work. You must be outside in direct sunlight, not behind a window or screen.
AIR (for 2-Tier with pump made in China)
If the motor begins to run and the impeller spins on its own then re-attach the impeller cover with spout and the pump cover with filter. Make sure the tube on the pump is connected to the tube kit and the tube kit is securely inserted into the hole in the bottom of the panel. Place the top tier into the main bowl of water. It may take a few minutes in direct sunlight before all the air is expelled and water begins to spray up through the solar panel. Don’t pour water down the tube to ‘help get the air out’ as this will only make it harder for the pump impeller to spin in the right direction.
OPTIMUM CONDITIONS & ORIENTATION (for standard integrated panels)
The solar panel needs to be placed outside in direct sunlight, not indoors behind a window or screen which will filter the light, and not under artificial lighting (i.e. fluorescent or halogen) which will not make it work. Chose a suitable outdoor location where there are no trees that will filter the sunlight. Even the smallest amount of shading reduces panel’s output significantly.
The weather needs to be clear, not hazy or partly cloudy. Just because it’s hot outside and the panel is hot when you touch it does not mean the fountain should be working. Most people assume that the hotter it is outside the better the fountain will work. This is a common misconception, because even though the amount of energy produced by a solar panel is proportional to the strength of the sunlight it receives (based on season), contrary to what you may expect, the higher the temperature of the solar panel the more its output actually decreases, not increases! Generally, temperatures around 68°F or 20°C (room temp) are ideal. You will see the best results in the spring and summer months when the hours between sunrise and sunset are the longest, and in the middle of the day when the sun is directly overhead. Sunlight in the early morning and late afternoon on a nice day (even though it’s bright) may not be strong enough to fully power the pump because the sun is at a low angle. Since you can’t tilt the solar panel because it’s integrated into the fountain it will be less efficient at this time. Also, sunlight throughout the entire day during the late autumn and winter may not be strong enough to fully power the pump.
The panel does not need time to charge before it works and it does not have a built-in battery pack so it will not store any energy. It operates in direct sunlight only.
SOLAR PANEL (for crystalline panels made in China)
The glass on the solar panel needs to be cleaned regularly with a glass cleaner to prevent it from developing any algae, dirt or scale build up that would potentially filter or block the sunlight that the solar panel needs to be able to absorb to power the pump. The surface of the glass is textured so even after it’s clean it won’t feel smooth. Make sure that the solar panel has no cracks in the glass. Look through the glass and check for any bubbles or air pockets inside the panel under the glass. If there’s a blue tint to some of the lines of solar cells that is normal. If the panel has any cracks or internal water damage then it needs to be replaced. Look at the underside of the solar panel where the wire is connected to it. Gently flex it back and forth and make sure that there are no breaks in the wire and it has not come away from the panel. If you can see a white or yellow wire exposed, a crack in the glass, or bubbles under the glass then you need to order a replacement. If the panel is clean and doesn’t have any cracks or spots then it should be functional.
CONNECTION (for panels made in China)
Unplug the wire that connects the solar panel to the pump by pulling them apart. Check for any green or white build-up or corrosion on & in the silver plugs. This would be a sign that water got into the connection because it was not water tight. If there is any build-up in the plugs they will need to be cleaned and dried off before re-connecting them. If there is a lot of build up or rust on the silver plugs then the solar panel or pump or both might need to be replaced. Inspect the red rubber o-ring on the solar panel plug. If the o-ring is cracked or deteriorated then it needs to be replaced. If you are missing the o-ring then you will have an empty groove around the plug and you need to order a replacement. If the o-ring is ok then reconnect the plugs again. Be sure to twist them as you push them together until the entire o-ring on the solar panel plug is covered all the way around and inside the sleeve of the pump plug to ensure a water-tight connection. If you look at the plugs when it’s flat on a table you should not be able to see the o-ring.
PUMP COVER WITH FILTER (Part # ‘160xfk’, for pumps made in China)
Hold the pump so you can read the black label on the side. The left half of the pump has slits all around it. This end of the pump is the pump cover and it has a spongy filter inside of it. You can pull this end straight off. Do not try to twist it off. Once it’s off, remove the filter from the cover. Rinse the filter out and clean the slits on the cover. Rinse the filter regularly so that it does not become dirty enough to restrict the water flow. If you are missing the pump cover then you need to order replacement parts.
IMPELLER COVER (Part # ‘n/a’, for pumps made in China)
Underneath the pump cover is a piece with 3 prongs coming out of it, a hole in the middle and a spout at the top. This piece is the impeller cover. Through the hole in the center you can see the white impeller. Turn the cover clockwise from the 12 o’clock position to the 2 o’clock position and when the tabs on the pump body line up with the grooves on the cover it will come off. Do not try to pull the cover off without turning it first or you will break one of the tabs on the pump body off. Clean the inside of the impeller cover to make sure there is no sediment or scale build-up inside that would restrict the impeller from turning properly. If you are missing the impeller cover then you need to order replacement parts.
IMPELLER (Part # ‘n/a’, for pumps made in China)
Underneath the pump cover and the impeller cover is a white magnetic impeller with four fins that spins on a silver metal pin. The pin is fixed and does not turn. Remove the magnetic impeller by pinching one of the fins and pulling it straight off. If the fins on the impeller do not appear to be white then it is not clean. Make sure the impeller is clean and that there is no sediment or scale build-up on it that would restrict it from turning easily. If you are missing the impeller then you need to order replacement parts.
MANUAL START (universal)
If the impeller does not turn on its own, try manually starting the pump. To do so, take the pump and solar panel outside and make sure the connection is correct. The pump does not have to be in water for a manual start. Hold it up in the air and while facing the solar panel toward direct sunlight, turn the impeller clock-wise with your finger. Please note that attempting to try a manual start outside when it’s cloudy or indoors by holding the solar panel under a light in your house will not work. You must be outside in direct sunlight, not behind a window or screen.
AIR (for 2-Tier with pump made in China)
If the motor begins to run and the impeller spins on its own then re-attach the impeller cover with spout and the pump cover with filter. Make sure the tube on the pump is connected to the tube kit and the tube kit is securely inserted into the hole in the bottom of the panel. Place the top tier into the main bowl of water. It may take a few minutes in direct sunlight before all the air is expelled and water begins to spray up through the solar panel. Don’t pour water down the tube to ‘help get the air out’ as this will only make it harder for the pump impeller to spin in the right direction.
• My pump works but it’s very weak. What do I do? (T)
Please review the troubleshooting information below:
ASSEMBLY
The first thing you should do is double check the assembly. You want to make sure that the tube that comes up through the bung from the pump is inserted into the bottom of the solar panel tightly. To check this, simply walk up to your fountain and gently tug on the tube that comes up out of the solar panel. If you can lift your solar panel out of the top tier and see the wire that comes out of the bottom of it then you do NOT have it connected correctly because the panel is just resting on the fountain and that is causing it to seem weak. To correct this, set the solar panel into the top of the tier and hold it in place with one hand, and with your other hand grab the pump underneath and then squeeze them together. If done properly then the pump, tubes, and panel should all act as one piece and the solar panel will NOT lift out of the top tier when you tug on it.
OPTIMUM CONDITIONS & ORIENTATION (for standard integrated panels)
The solar panel needs to be placed outside in direct sunlight, not indoors behind a window or screen which will filter the light, and not under artificial lighting (i.e. fluorescent or halogen) which will not make it work. Chose a suitable outdoor location where there are no trees that will filter the sunlight. Even the smallest amount of shading reduces panel’s output significantly.
The weather needs to be clear, not hazy or partly cloudy. Just because it’s hot outside and the panel is hot when you touch it does not mean the fountain should be working. Most people assume that the hotter it is outside the better the fountain will work. This is a common misconception, because even though the amount of energy produced by a solar panel is proportional to the strength of the sunlight it receives (based on season), contrary to what you may expect, the higher the temperature of the solar panel the more its output actually decreases, not increases! Generally, temperatures around 68°F or 20°C (room temp) are ideal. You will see the best results in the spring and summer months when the hours between sunrise and sunset are the longest, and in the middle of the day when the sun is directly overhead. Sunlight in the early morning and late afternoon on a nice day (even though it’s bright) may not be strong enough to fully power the pump because the sun is at a low angle. Since you can’t tilt the solar panel because it’s integrated into the fountain it will be less efficient at this time. Also, sunlight throughout the entire day during the late autumn and winter may not be strong enough to fully power the pump.
The panel does not need time to charge before it works and it does not have a built-in battery pack so it will not store any energy. It operates in direct sunlight only.
SOLAR PANEL (for amorphous panels made in Thailand)
The glass on the solar panel needs to be cleaned regularly with a glass cleaner to prevent it from developing any algae, dirt or hard water scale build up that would potentially filter or block the sunlight that the solar panel needs to be able to absorb to power the pump. Once it’s clean the glass should be smooth to the touch, however you may still see some water stains. Make sure that the solar panel has no cracks in the glass. If the panel has any cracks then it needs to be replaced. Hold the panel in the sun, look through the glass, and check for any silver spots or subtle red blotchy areas inside the panel. This would be signs that water has gotten past the seal around the edge and inside the panel. If the panel has this type of discoloration then it needs to be replaced. However, if there’s just a faded area that is an even strip across the whole panel then that is normal and the panel is ok. Look at the underside of the solar panel where the wire is connected to it. Gently flex it back and forth and make sure that there are no breaks in the wire and it has not come away from the panel. If you can see a white or yellow wire exposed then the panel needs to be replaced. If the panel is clean, has no cracks, no discoloration, and no breaks in the wire then it should be functional.
PUMP COVER (for pumps made in Thailand)
Hold the pump so you can read the white label. The top of the pump where the wire comes out is sealed. Do not attempt to open the top of the pump. There are 4 vertical bumps around the bottom of the pump that are shaped like arrows that point downward. The line that goes through all the arrows is where it separates. It is not sealed and is removable. This end of the pump is called the pump cover. It’s shaped like a '6' or ‘9’ and may have a spongy filter attached to it. You can pull/pop this end straight off. Do not try to twist it off and do not pull by the filter otherwise you will rip it off. If you have trouble removing the pump cover, try prying it off using your fingernail, a butter knife, or flat-head screwdriver on the triangle of the second arrow from the right which is below the middle of the white label. Once removed, clean the inside of the cover. Rinse the filter regularly so that it does not become dirty enough to restrict the water flow. If you are missing the pump cover then you need to order a replacement.
If you have checked the assembly and the panel does not lift out, you have optimum conditions, have done the cleaning maintenance, and do not have the fountain head set on the panel, and it still seems to be weak then you might need to replace the pump.
ASSEMBLY
The first thing you should do is double check the assembly. You want to make sure that the tube that comes up through the bung from the pump is inserted into the bottom of the solar panel tightly. To check this, simply walk up to your fountain and gently tug on the tube that comes up out of the solar panel. If you can lift your solar panel out of the top tier and see the wire that comes out of the bottom of it then you do NOT have it connected correctly because the panel is just resting on the fountain and that is causing it to seem weak. To correct this, set the solar panel into the top of the tier and hold it in place with one hand, and with your other hand grab the pump underneath and then squeeze them together. If done properly then the pump, tubes, and panel should all act as one piece and the solar panel will NOT lift out of the top tier when you tug on it.
OPTIMUM CONDITIONS & ORIENTATION (for standard integrated panels)
The solar panel needs to be placed outside in direct sunlight, not indoors behind a window or screen which will filter the light, and not under artificial lighting (i.e. fluorescent or halogen) which will not make it work. Chose a suitable outdoor location where there are no trees that will filter the sunlight. Even the smallest amount of shading reduces panel’s output significantly.
The weather needs to be clear, not hazy or partly cloudy. Just because it’s hot outside and the panel is hot when you touch it does not mean the fountain should be working. Most people assume that the hotter it is outside the better the fountain will work. This is a common misconception, because even though the amount of energy produced by a solar panel is proportional to the strength of the sunlight it receives (based on season), contrary to what you may expect, the higher the temperature of the solar panel the more its output actually decreases, not increases! Generally, temperatures around 68°F or 20°C (room temp) are ideal. You will see the best results in the spring and summer months when the hours between sunrise and sunset are the longest, and in the middle of the day when the sun is directly overhead. Sunlight in the early morning and late afternoon on a nice day (even though it’s bright) may not be strong enough to fully power the pump because the sun is at a low angle. Since you can’t tilt the solar panel because it’s integrated into the fountain it will be less efficient at this time. Also, sunlight throughout the entire day during the late autumn and winter may not be strong enough to fully power the pump.
The panel does not need time to charge before it works and it does not have a built-in battery pack so it will not store any energy. It operates in direct sunlight only.
SOLAR PANEL (for amorphous panels made in Thailand)
The glass on the solar panel needs to be cleaned regularly with a glass cleaner to prevent it from developing any algae, dirt or hard water scale build up that would potentially filter or block the sunlight that the solar panel needs to be able to absorb to power the pump. Once it’s clean the glass should be smooth to the touch, however you may still see some water stains. Make sure that the solar panel has no cracks in the glass. If the panel has any cracks then it needs to be replaced. Hold the panel in the sun, look through the glass, and check for any silver spots or subtle red blotchy areas inside the panel. This would be signs that water has gotten past the seal around the edge and inside the panel. If the panel has this type of discoloration then it needs to be replaced. However, if there’s just a faded area that is an even strip across the whole panel then that is normal and the panel is ok. Look at the underside of the solar panel where the wire is connected to it. Gently flex it back and forth and make sure that there are no breaks in the wire and it has not come away from the panel. If you can see a white or yellow wire exposed then the panel needs to be replaced. If the panel is clean, has no cracks, no discoloration, and no breaks in the wire then it should be functional.
PUMP COVER (for pumps made in Thailand)
Hold the pump so you can read the white label. The top of the pump where the wire comes out is sealed. Do not attempt to open the top of the pump. There are 4 vertical bumps around the bottom of the pump that are shaped like arrows that point downward. The line that goes through all the arrows is where it separates. It is not sealed and is removable. This end of the pump is called the pump cover. It’s shaped like a '6' or ‘9’ and may have a spongy filter attached to it. You can pull/pop this end straight off. Do not try to twist it off and do not pull by the filter otherwise you will rip it off. If you have trouble removing the pump cover, try prying it off using your fingernail, a butter knife, or flat-head screwdriver on the triangle of the second arrow from the right which is below the middle of the white label. Once removed, clean the inside of the cover. Rinse the filter regularly so that it does not become dirty enough to restrict the water flow. If you are missing the pump cover then you need to order a replacement.
If you have checked the assembly and the panel does not lift out, you have optimum conditions, have done the cleaning maintenance, and do not have the fountain head set on the panel, and it still seems to be weak then you might need to replace the pump.
• My pump works but it’s very weak. What do I do? (C)
Please review the troubleshooting information below:
ASSEMBLY
The first thing you should do is double check the assembly. You want to make sure that the tube that comes up through the bung from the pump is inserted into the bottom of the solar panel tightly. To check this, simply walk up to your fountain and gently tug on the tube that comes up out of the solar panel. If you can lift your solar panel out of the top tier and see the wire that comes out of the bottom of it then you do NOT have it connected correctly because the panel is just resting on the fountain and that is causing it to seem weak. To correct this, set the solar panel into the top of the tier and hold it in place with one hand, and with your other hand grab the pump underneath and then squeeze them together. If done properly then the pump, tubes, and panel should all act as one piece and the solar panel will NOT lift out of the top tier when you tug on it.
OPTIMUM CONDITIONS & ORIENTATION (for standard integrated panels)
The solar panel needs to be placed outside in direct sunlight, not indoors behind a window or screen which will filter the light, and not under artificial lighting (i.e. fluorescent or halogen) which will not make it work. Chose a suitable outdoor location where there are no trees that will filter the sunlight. Even the smallest amount of shading reduces panel’s output significantly.
The weather needs to be clear, not hazy or partly cloudy. Just because it’s hot outside and the panel is hot when you touch it does not mean the fountain should be working. Most people assume that the hotter it is outside the better the fountain will work. This is a common misconception, because even though the amount of energy produced by a solar panel is proportional to the strength of the sunlight it receives (based on season), contrary to what you may expect, the higher the temperature of the solar panel the more its output actually decreases, not increases! Generally, temperatures around 68°F or 20°C (room temp) are ideal. You will see the best results in the spring and summer months when the hours between sunrise and sunset are the longest, and in the middle of the day when the sun is directly overhead. Sunlight in the early morning and late afternoon on a nice day (even though it’s bright) may not be strong enough to fully power the pump because the sun is at a low angle. Since you can’t tilt the solar panel because it’s integrated into the fountain it will be less efficient at this time. Also, sunlight throughout the entire day during the late autumn and winter may not be strong enough to fully power the pump.
The panel does not need time to charge before it works and it does not have a built-in battery pack so it will not store any energy. It operates in direct sunlight only.
SOLAR PANEL (for crystalline panels made in China)
The glass on the solar panel needs to be cleaned regularly with a glass cleaner to prevent it from developing any algae, dirt or scale build up that would potentially filter or block the sunlight that the solar panel needs to be able to absorb to power the pump. The surface of the glass is textured so even after it’s clean it won’t feel smooth. Make sure that the solar panel has no cracks in the glass. Look through the glass and check for any bubbles or air pockets inside the panel under the glass. If there’s a blue tint to some of the lines of solar cells that is normal. If the panel has any cracks or internal water damage then it needs to be replaced. Look at the underside of the solar panel where the wire is connected to it. Gently flex it back and forth and make sure that there are no breaks in the wire and it has not come away from the panel. If you can see a white or yellow wire exposed, a crack in the glass, or bubbles under the glass then you need to order a replacement. If the panel is clean and doesn’t have any cracks or spots then it should be functional.
PUMP COVER WITH FILTER (Part # ‘160xfk’, for pumps made in China)
Hold the pump so you can read the black label on the side. The left half of the pump has slits all around it. This end of the pump is the pump cover and it has a spongy filter inside of it. You can pull this end straight off. Do not try to twist it off. Once it’s off, remove the filter from the cover. Rinse the filter out and clean the slits on the cover. Rinse the filter regularly so that it does not become dirty enough to restrict the water flow. If you are missing the pump cover then you need to order replacement parts.
If you have checked the assembly and the panel does not lift out, you have optimum conditions, have done the cleaning maintenance, and do not have the fountain head set on the panel, and it still seems to be weak then you might need to replace the pump.
ASSEMBLY
The first thing you should do is double check the assembly. You want to make sure that the tube that comes up through the bung from the pump is inserted into the bottom of the solar panel tightly. To check this, simply walk up to your fountain and gently tug on the tube that comes up out of the solar panel. If you can lift your solar panel out of the top tier and see the wire that comes out of the bottom of it then you do NOT have it connected correctly because the panel is just resting on the fountain and that is causing it to seem weak. To correct this, set the solar panel into the top of the tier and hold it in place with one hand, and with your other hand grab the pump underneath and then squeeze them together. If done properly then the pump, tubes, and panel should all act as one piece and the solar panel will NOT lift out of the top tier when you tug on it.
OPTIMUM CONDITIONS & ORIENTATION (for standard integrated panels)
The solar panel needs to be placed outside in direct sunlight, not indoors behind a window or screen which will filter the light, and not under artificial lighting (i.e. fluorescent or halogen) which will not make it work. Chose a suitable outdoor location where there are no trees that will filter the sunlight. Even the smallest amount of shading reduces panel’s output significantly.
The weather needs to be clear, not hazy or partly cloudy. Just because it’s hot outside and the panel is hot when you touch it does not mean the fountain should be working. Most people assume that the hotter it is outside the better the fountain will work. This is a common misconception, because even though the amount of energy produced by a solar panel is proportional to the strength of the sunlight it receives (based on season), contrary to what you may expect, the higher the temperature of the solar panel the more its output actually decreases, not increases! Generally, temperatures around 68°F or 20°C (room temp) are ideal. You will see the best results in the spring and summer months when the hours between sunrise and sunset are the longest, and in the middle of the day when the sun is directly overhead. Sunlight in the early morning and late afternoon on a nice day (even though it’s bright) may not be strong enough to fully power the pump because the sun is at a low angle. Since you can’t tilt the solar panel because it’s integrated into the fountain it will be less efficient at this time. Also, sunlight throughout the entire day during the late autumn and winter may not be strong enough to fully power the pump.
The panel does not need time to charge before it works and it does not have a built-in battery pack so it will not store any energy. It operates in direct sunlight only.
SOLAR PANEL (for crystalline panels made in China)
The glass on the solar panel needs to be cleaned regularly with a glass cleaner to prevent it from developing any algae, dirt or scale build up that would potentially filter or block the sunlight that the solar panel needs to be able to absorb to power the pump. The surface of the glass is textured so even after it’s clean it won’t feel smooth. Make sure that the solar panel has no cracks in the glass. Look through the glass and check for any bubbles or air pockets inside the panel under the glass. If there’s a blue tint to some of the lines of solar cells that is normal. If the panel has any cracks or internal water damage then it needs to be replaced. Look at the underside of the solar panel where the wire is connected to it. Gently flex it back and forth and make sure that there are no breaks in the wire and it has not come away from the panel. If you can see a white or yellow wire exposed, a crack in the glass, or bubbles under the glass then you need to order a replacement. If the panel is clean and doesn’t have any cracks or spots then it should be functional.
PUMP COVER WITH FILTER (Part # ‘160xfk’, for pumps made in China)
Hold the pump so you can read the black label on the side. The left half of the pump has slits all around it. This end of the pump is the pump cover and it has a spongy filter inside of it. You can pull this end straight off. Do not try to twist it off. Once it’s off, remove the filter from the cover. Rinse the filter out and clean the slits on the cover. Rinse the filter regularly so that it does not become dirty enough to restrict the water flow. If you are missing the pump cover then you need to order replacement parts.
If you have checked the assembly and the panel does not lift out, you have optimum conditions, have done the cleaning maintenance, and do not have the fountain head set on the panel, and it still seems to be weak then you might need to replace the pump.
• My pump works but the water runs under the panel and not over the top tier. What do I do?
Lift up the top tier and look underneath where the pump is. The tube from the pump runs up to the panel through a 2 inch wide hole in the resin. This hole needs to be sealed with a bung. The bung is a 2 inch wide black foam disc with a hole in the middle and a slit on the side. If the hole is not sealed with the bung then the water will run down under the panel and through the hole back down to the pump. If your bung is on the tubing but above the hole then it is not in the right place. It needs to be installed from underneath the hole. If your bung on the tubing but down by the pump then place the wire from the panel in the slit in the side of the bung, hold the solar panel in place with one hand, and with your other hand slide the bung up the tube away from the pump and push it into the hole to completely seal it all the way around. When you have the bung properly installed in the hole then the upper portion of the top tier will fill up and pour out over the spouts of the top tier into the main bowl. If you are missing the foam bung then you will need to order a replacement (Part # ‘2090kit2’). Only the foam bung will make the top tier overflow. The panel does not need to form a seal around it to make the top tier overflow. Do not try to seal the panel to the top tier with any kind of sealant.
• How do I re-assemble the top tier with all the parts? (T)
FOR SOLAR PANEL & PUMP MADE IN THAILAND:
If you have taken apart the top tier of your fountain to replace a part or clean it then you will need to make sure you re-assemble it properly. Check that you have all the pieces before you begin: pump (with attached impeller and pump cover with filter), solar panel, and tube kit (with two 2 inch long tubes and one 2 inch wide foam bung). If the tube on the pump is the same height as the pump then you do not have one of the tubes from the tube kit on the pump, but if the tube on the pump is taller than the pump and has a tapered end then you have one of the tubes attached to the pump already. If you are missing any of these parts you will need to order replacement parts (Part # pump ‘sp-160x01’, panel ‘sb1w1s’, tube kit ‘2090kit2’).
Make sure the pump is assembled (Put the magnetic impeller on the pump and make sure that the 2 fins on the impeller face you. Snap the pump cover onto the bottom of the pump over the impeller making sure that it’s sealed all the way around). Attach the two 2 inch long tubes to each other and to the pump. Slide the foam bung onto the tubes and down to the bottom of the first tube (don’t slide it onto the second tube which is closer to the pump). Gently lay the top tier on its side on a soft surface. Extend the wire from the panel (with the black or yellow o-ring) through the hole in the top tier. Connect the plug from the panel to the plug from the pump making sure the o-ring disappears and is completely covered all the way around. Insert the panel wire into the slit in the side of the bung (so the plug connection is below the bung). Set the solar panel into the top of the tier and hold it in place with one hand; with your other hand insert the tube from the pump into the hole in the bottom of the solar panel (squeeze them together). If attached properly then the pump, tubes, and panel should all act as one piece. Lastly, continue to hold the panel in place with one hand and with the other hand, slide the foam bung up the tube away from the pump into the hole to seal. Make sure the bung is completely in the hole all the way around. Place the fully assembled top tier back into the main bowl of the fountain. Fill the main bowl to make sure that the pump is completely submerged in water. It may take a few minutes in direct sunlight before all the air is expelled and water begins to spray up through the panel. Don’t pour water down the tube to ‘help get the air out’ as this will only make it harder for the pump impeller to spin in the right direction.
Exceptions: The Richmond 2-Tier Fountain has a short top tier and comes with 3 inches of tubes. The Milano 2-Tier Fountain has a tall top tier and comes with 8 inches of tubes (between the pump and panel).
Note: The order of the top tier assembly steps can vary if necessary. We suggest using any method that is easier for you during installation as long as the final result is the same.
If you have taken apart the top tier of your fountain to replace a part or clean it then you will need to make sure you re-assemble it properly. Check that you have all the pieces before you begin: pump (with attached impeller and pump cover with filter), solar panel, and tube kit (with two 2 inch long tubes and one 2 inch wide foam bung). If the tube on the pump is the same height as the pump then you do not have one of the tubes from the tube kit on the pump, but if the tube on the pump is taller than the pump and has a tapered end then you have one of the tubes attached to the pump already. If you are missing any of these parts you will need to order replacement parts (Part # pump ‘sp-160x01’, panel ‘sb1w1s’, tube kit ‘2090kit2’).
Make sure the pump is assembled (Put the magnetic impeller on the pump and make sure that the 2 fins on the impeller face you. Snap the pump cover onto the bottom of the pump over the impeller making sure that it’s sealed all the way around). Attach the two 2 inch long tubes to each other and to the pump. Slide the foam bung onto the tubes and down to the bottom of the first tube (don’t slide it onto the second tube which is closer to the pump). Gently lay the top tier on its side on a soft surface. Extend the wire from the panel (with the black or yellow o-ring) through the hole in the top tier. Connect the plug from the panel to the plug from the pump making sure the o-ring disappears and is completely covered all the way around. Insert the panel wire into the slit in the side of the bung (so the plug connection is below the bung). Set the solar panel into the top of the tier and hold it in place with one hand; with your other hand insert the tube from the pump into the hole in the bottom of the solar panel (squeeze them together). If attached properly then the pump, tubes, and panel should all act as one piece. Lastly, continue to hold the panel in place with one hand and with the other hand, slide the foam bung up the tube away from the pump into the hole to seal. Make sure the bung is completely in the hole all the way around. Place the fully assembled top tier back into the main bowl of the fountain. Fill the main bowl to make sure that the pump is completely submerged in water. It may take a few minutes in direct sunlight before all the air is expelled and water begins to spray up through the panel. Don’t pour water down the tube to ‘help get the air out’ as this will only make it harder for the pump impeller to spin in the right direction.
Exceptions: The Richmond 2-Tier Fountain has a short top tier and comes with 3 inches of tubes. The Milano 2-Tier Fountain has a tall top tier and comes with 8 inches of tubes (between the pump and panel).
Note: The order of the top tier assembly steps can vary if necessary. We suggest using any method that is easier for you during installation as long as the final result is the same.
• How do I re-assemble the top tier with all the parts? (C)
FOR SOLAR PANEL & PUMP MADE IN CHINA:
If you have taken apart the top tier of your fountain to replace a part or clean it then you will need to make sure you re-assemble it properly. Check that you have all the pieces before you begin: pump (with attached impeller, impeller cover with spout, and pump cover with filter), solar panel, tube kit (with two 2 inch long tubes and one 2 inch wide foam bung). The spout on the top of the pump is already tapered but if it’s only less than about ½” then you do not have one of the tubes attached to the pump already. If you are missing any of these parts you will need to order replacement parts. (Part # pump ‘sp-160x01’, panel ‘sb1w1s’, tube kit ‘2090kit2’)
Make sure the pump is assembled (Put the magnetic impeller to the pump. Attach the impeller cover with spout by putting it on the pump in the 2 o’clock position so the grooves line up, and then rotate it counter clock-wise to the 12 o’clock position to lock it on. Slide the pump cover on over the impeller cover). Attach the two 2 inch long tubes to each other and to the pump. Slide the foam bung onto the tubes and down to the bottom of the first tube (don’t slide it onto the second tube which is closer to the pump). Gently lay the top tier on its side on a soft surface. Extend the wire from the panel (with the red o-ring) through the hole in the top tier. Connect the plug from the panel to the plug from the pump making sure the o-ring disappears and is completely covered all the way around. Insert the panel wire into the slit in the side of the bung (so the plug connection is below the bung). Set the solar panel into the top of the tier and hold it in place with one hand; with your other hand insert the tube from the pump into the hole in the bottom of the solar panel (squeeze them together). If attached properly then the pump, tubes, and panel should all act as one piece. Lastly, continue to hold the panel in place with one hand and with the other hand, slide the foam bung up the tube away from the pump into the hole to seal. Make sure the bung is completely in the hole all the way around. Place the fully assembled top tier back into the main bowl of the fountain. Fill the main bowl to make sure that the pump is completely submerged in water. It may take a few minutes in direct sunlight before all the air is expelled and water begins to spray up through the panel. Don’t pour water down the tube to ‘help get the air out’ as this will only make it harder for the pump impeller to spin in the right direction.
Exceptions: The Richmond 2-Tier Fountain has a short top tier and comes with 3 inches of tubes. The Milano 2-Tier Fountain has a tall top tier and comes with 8 inches of tubes (between the pump and panel).
Note: The order of the top tier assembly steps can vary if necessary. We suggest using any method that is easier for you during installation as long as the final result is the same.
If you have taken apart the top tier of your fountain to replace a part or clean it then you will need to make sure you re-assemble it properly. Check that you have all the pieces before you begin: pump (with attached impeller, impeller cover with spout, and pump cover with filter), solar panel, tube kit (with two 2 inch long tubes and one 2 inch wide foam bung). The spout on the top of the pump is already tapered but if it’s only less than about ½” then you do not have one of the tubes attached to the pump already. If you are missing any of these parts you will need to order replacement parts. (Part # pump ‘sp-160x01’, panel ‘sb1w1s’, tube kit ‘2090kit2’)
Make sure the pump is assembled (Put the magnetic impeller to the pump. Attach the impeller cover with spout by putting it on the pump in the 2 o’clock position so the grooves line up, and then rotate it counter clock-wise to the 12 o’clock position to lock it on. Slide the pump cover on over the impeller cover). Attach the two 2 inch long tubes to each other and to the pump. Slide the foam bung onto the tubes and down to the bottom of the first tube (don’t slide it onto the second tube which is closer to the pump). Gently lay the top tier on its side on a soft surface. Extend the wire from the panel (with the red o-ring) through the hole in the top tier. Connect the plug from the panel to the plug from the pump making sure the o-ring disappears and is completely covered all the way around. Insert the panel wire into the slit in the side of the bung (so the plug connection is below the bung). Set the solar panel into the top of the tier and hold it in place with one hand; with your other hand insert the tube from the pump into the hole in the bottom of the solar panel (squeeze them together). If attached properly then the pump, tubes, and panel should all act as one piece. Lastly, continue to hold the panel in place with one hand and with the other hand, slide the foam bung up the tube away from the pump into the hole to seal. Make sure the bung is completely in the hole all the way around. Place the fully assembled top tier back into the main bowl of the fountain. Fill the main bowl to make sure that the pump is completely submerged in water. It may take a few minutes in direct sunlight before all the air is expelled and water begins to spray up through the panel. Don’t pour water down the tube to ‘help get the air out’ as this will only make it harder for the pump impeller to spin in the right direction.
Exceptions: The Richmond 2-Tier Fountain has a short top tier and comes with 3 inches of tubes. The Milano 2-Tier Fountain has a tall top tier and comes with 8 inches of tubes (between the pump and panel).
Note: The order of the top tier assembly steps can vary if necessary. We suggest using any method that is easier for you during installation as long as the final result is the same.
Solar-On-Demand Fountains (battery)
• What do the ‘I’ and ‘O’ on the solar panel mean?
The ‘I’ and ‘O’ stand for input and output. They refer to communication between things in a system. By using the symbols ‘I’ and ‘O’ instead of the words ‘on’ and ‘off’ it makes the parts more universal and allows us supply the same parts to different countries with different languages.
With the switch in the 'I' (on) position the panel will either use the power from the sun or take power from the battery pack and dedicate it to running the pump, so the battery will not be getting charged at this time.
With the switch in the 'O' (off & charge) position the panel will use the power from the sun and dedicate it to only charging the battery pack, so the pump will not be running at this time.
With the switch in the 'O' (off & charge) position the panel will use the power from the sun and dedicate it to only charging the battery pack, so the pump will not be running at this time.
• Can you explain how the Solar-On-Demand works?
A Solar-On-Demand fountain does have a battery pack but some people misunderstand how it functions. The unit cannot run the pump and adequately charge the battery at the same time. Just because it has a battery does not mean it will be able to run all day and all night. This is how it works:
If you have the switch in the 'I' (on) position the panel will either use the power from the sun (day time) or take power from the battery pack (cloudy or night time) and dedicate it to running the pump, so the battery will not be getting charged at this time.
To run the fountain at night you will need to leave the switch in the 'O' (off & charge) position during the day so that the panel will take the power from the sun and charge the battery, so the pump will not be running at this time. Then when you turn the unit on at night it will run the pump from the charged battery.
In order to have the fountain run during the day and then during the evening (on the same day), you would need to leave it turned off and allow it to fully charge the battery the day before you plan on using it. Then if the next day is sunny with clear skies, you can turn it on it will run using the sun throughout the day. Then in the evening when the sun goes down it will continue to run using the battery until the battery gets low. Please note that throughout the day the battery pack may be getting slightly used at times when the sun goes behind clouds, trees, etc so you may not get the full 6 hours of operation in the evening. You will only be able to attempt this every other day during the summer because it will be charging for a whole day, then running for the whole next day, then repeat.
If you have the switch in the 'I' (on) position the panel will either use the power from the sun (day time) or take power from the battery pack (cloudy or night time) and dedicate it to running the pump, so the battery will not be getting charged at this time.
To run the fountain at night you will need to leave the switch in the 'O' (off & charge) position during the day so that the panel will take the power from the sun and charge the battery, so the pump will not be running at this time. Then when you turn the unit on at night it will run the pump from the charged battery.
In order to have the fountain run during the day and then during the evening (on the same day), you would need to leave it turned off and allow it to fully charge the battery the day before you plan on using it. Then if the next day is sunny with clear skies, you can turn it on it will run using the sun throughout the day. Then in the evening when the sun goes down it will continue to run using the battery until the battery gets low. Please note that throughout the day the battery pack may be getting slightly used at times when the sun goes behind clouds, trees, etc so you may not get the full 6 hours of operation in the evening. You will only be able to attempt this every other day during the summer because it will be charging for a whole day, then running for the whole next day, then repeat.
• Can you walk me through how will it work on a typical day?
If you leave the switch set to ‘O’ (off) for a day to charge the battery then…
the next day the battery pack should be fully charged and this is how it will typically operate:
In the early morning…
when you go outside and set the switch to ‘I’ (on) the pump will run using the battery because the sun is not yet strong enough to run the pump
During the day…
the pump runs using the panel if in direct sunlight or using the battery when cloudy
As the sun goes down in the evening…
the pump runs using the battery pack
At night time…
the battery for the pump run until low (~30% left = less than 4.8v), then the pump shuts off
because…
the pump requires 4.8v to run
on a full charge the pump can run 6 hrs
however…
please note the battery automatically gets used throughout the day anytime the sun goes behind trees or passing clouds so you can’t expect a full 6 hours from the battery if the pump has been running all day when this happens
If you leave the switch set to ‘I’ (on) for a day to run the pump then…
the next day the battery pack will be empty and this is how it will typically operate:
In the morning…
the lights will be off and the battery for the lights will be empty because they were on all night the switch will already be set to ‘I’ (on) but the pump will not run because the batteries are empty and the sun is not yet strong enough to run the pump
During the day…
the pump runs using the panel if in direct sunlight but stops when cloudy because the batteries are not charged
As the sun goes down in the evening…
the pump will stop running because the sun isn’t strong
At night time…
the pump will not run because the battery is not charged
the next day the battery pack should be fully charged and this is how it will typically operate:
In the early morning…
when you go outside and set the switch to ‘I’ (on) the pump will run using the battery because the sun is not yet strong enough to run the pump
During the day…
the pump runs using the panel if in direct sunlight or using the battery when cloudy
As the sun goes down in the evening…
the pump runs using the battery pack
At night time…
the battery for the pump run until low (~30% left = less than 4.8v), then the pump shuts off
because…
the pump requires 4.8v to run
on a full charge the pump can run 6 hrs
however…
please note the battery automatically gets used throughout the day anytime the sun goes behind trees or passing clouds so you can’t expect a full 6 hours from the battery if the pump has been running all day when this happens
If you leave the switch set to ‘I’ (on) for a day to run the pump then…
the next day the battery pack will be empty and this is how it will typically operate:
In the morning…
the lights will be off and the battery for the lights will be empty because they were on all night the switch will already be set to ‘I’ (on) but the pump will not run because the batteries are empty and the sun is not yet strong enough to run the pump
During the day…
the pump runs using the panel if in direct sunlight but stops when cloudy because the batteries are not charged
As the sun goes down in the evening…
the pump will stop running because the sun isn’t strong
At night time…
the pump will not run because the battery is not charged
• I own one of your fountains already. Can I upgrade it to Solar-On-Demand?
If you have a Smart Solar fountain already and would like it to store power and run off a battery pack you can upgrade it with a Solar-On-Demand kit without buying a whole new fountain. We have a variety of options. The Solar-On-Demand panels for our birdbaths are the same size and shape as our standard solar panels so they fit into all of our Birdbath fountains, 2-Tier fountains, and 2-tier Estate fountains. If your birdbath is fountain has a round reservoir then you will also need a mounting ring kit (Part #2060mk, sold separately) for it to fit properly. The Solar-On-Demand panel for our Cascades is a slightly different size but it doesn’t make a difference because the panel is used outside of the fountain. All Solar-On-Demand kits come with the same pump that you would use with a standard solar panel.
• Why don’t all your new fountains come with Solar-On-Demand now?
Most of the retailers that we supply choose to order new fountains with standard solar panels in order to keep their costs down so that they can sell our products to consumers at lower rates. Other retailers decide to offer our products with Solar-On-Demand kits in them to sell a more exclusive version of fountains even if it makes the cost slightly higher. Please pay attention to the advertising used by a retailer to ensure that the fountain you are about to order will work the way you want it to. If it’s advertised as ”operates in direct sunlight only” and doesn’t mention a battery pack then it doesn’t come with a Solar-On-Demand kit. Also, some of our fountains come with only an electric pump instead of a solar panel and pump. If it’s advertised as ”UL listed” then it comes with an electric pump.
• Should I charge the battery pack before I store it for the winter?
Yes, we recommend fully charging your battery pack before storing it for the winter. Since the battery will self-discharge during storage try to top it up periodically, if possible. Do not discharge the battery completely and then store it for a prolonged period of time. For more information about batteries please go to the BATTERIES section of the FAQ’s.
• My pump runs with the switch set to ‘O’(off). What do I do?
If you have the pump, panel, and battery fully assembled with the plugs connected properly (green to green, and black to black) and the pump runs when the switch arrow faces ‘O’ (off) then the magnetic contact under the glass for the switch is stuck in the ‘I’ (on) position. Tap on the glass firmly several times and rotate the switch (for Birdbaths), or slide the switch up and down (for Cascades). If this does not free up the switch contacts and turn the pump off then the solar panel needs to be replaced. Remove the battery pack by sliding it out of the rails and disconnecting the green plugs. If there is a foam strip on the bottom of the panel that gets in the way then you can pull the battery past it or remove the foam strip first. Contact us for a replacement panel and provide the Model and QC passed numbers from your panel.
• My fountain is not running (day or night) with the switch set to ‘I’ (on). Do I need a new battery?
No, do not assume that you need a new battery just because it comes with one. After troubleshooting you may find that you just needed better weather conditions, needed to charge the battery, needed to perform the cleaning maintenance, need a new pump, or need a new solar panel if the switch isn’t working.
We recommend allowing it to fully charge in direct sunlight for at least 2-3 sunny days with the switch on the ‘O’ (off) before attempting to use the product for the first time.
If you’ve already done that then the battery should be charged. If your fountain still does nothing when you set the switch to ‘I’ (on) day or night, then you might actually need a new pump or new panel - not a battery.
If your fountain does nothing with the switch set to ‘I’ in the middle of a sunny summer day then you definitely do NOT need a new battery. Even if your battery was low or bad or not connected at all, the fountain would still work when the panel is in direct sunlight.
However, if your fountain does work during a sunny day with the switch set to ‘I’ (on), but not at night after charging the battery all day with the switch set to ‘O’ (off & charge), then your battery might need to be replaced. The battery pack should only need to be replaced if it is several years old, physically damaged, or the plug is corroded because it wasn’t connected properly with the o-ring covered.
For more information please refer to the other questions listed in this section for troubleshooting that corresponds to the type of fountain that you have.
We recommend allowing it to fully charge in direct sunlight for at least 2-3 sunny days with the switch on the ‘O’ (off) before attempting to use the product for the first time.
If you’ve already done that then the battery should be charged. If your fountain still does nothing when you set the switch to ‘I’ (on) day or night, then you might actually need a new pump or new panel - not a battery.
If your fountain does nothing with the switch set to ‘I’ in the middle of a sunny summer day then you definitely do NOT need a new battery. Even if your battery was low or bad or not connected at all, the fountain would still work when the panel is in direct sunlight.
However, if your fountain does work during a sunny day with the switch set to ‘I’ (on), but not at night after charging the battery all day with the switch set to ‘O’ (off & charge), then your battery might need to be replaced. The battery pack should only need to be replaced if it is several years old, physically damaged, or the plug is corroded because it wasn’t connected properly with the o-ring covered.
For more information please refer to the other questions listed in this section for troubleshooting that corresponds to the type of fountain that you have.
• Cascade with SOD - My pump is not running at all. What do I do?
If you just set your fountain up for the first time we recommend allowing it to fully charge in direct sunlight for at least 2-3 sunny days with the switch in the ‘O’ (off & charge) position before attempting to use the product. If you have already done that then please try the following steps:
&bull Remove the pump from the fountain.
&bull Remove the panel from the ground or wall and lay it on a soft surface.
&bull Make sure the solar panel and pump are clean and dry.
If your fountain is not new and the pump is dirty or the solar panel has hard water build up on the glass then perform the regular cleaning maintenance that is listed in your instruction manual. If you have already done it then continue to step 1:
&bull (A) TRY THE PUMP TO BATTERY DIRECTLY (steps 1-3)
1- Pull apart the set of green plugs between the solar panel and battery.
2- Pull apart the set of black plugs between the solar panel and pump.
3- Plug the pump into the battery directly by mixing & match the plugs.
Connect the green one with the red o-ring (from the battery) to the black one with the sleeve (from the pump).
Note: You do not need to connect the black one with the red o-ring (from the panel) into the green one with the sleeve (from the panel). Plugging the panel into itself will do nothing.
-Can you hear or feel the pump running?
(if “Yes” then you know that the pump and battery are both good)
(if “No, the pump makes no noise or vibration” then the battery might not be charged. Don’t assume that either the battery or pump need to be replaced just yet).
&bull (B) TRY THE PUMP & BATTERY TO PANEL ON ‘I’ (steps 4-6)
4- Re-connect both sets of plugs back up the correctly (green to green, and black to black so both red o-rings are covered)
5- Slide the switch on the panel up to the ‘I’(on) position.
-Can you hear or feel the pump running?
(If “Yes, the pump runs during steps 3 & 5” then all parts are functioning properly and you can stop troubleshooting now. Place the pump back into the fountain)
(If “No, the pump runs during step 3 but not step 5” then continue to step 6.
The battery might not be charged so don’t assume that it needs to be replaced yet. If the battery is very low then step 3 will work but step 5 will not because it has just enough power to run the pump directly but doesn’t have enough power to go through the panel to run the pump)
6- Physically inspect the panel and switch.
-Is the glass cracked?
(If “No” then continue, if “Yes” then it needs to be replaced)
-Does the switch feel loose or fall down to ‘O’ when you slide it up to the ‘I’?
(If “No” then continue, if “Yes” then make a note and continue)
-Does the switch click when you slide it back and forth from ‘O’ to ‘I’?
(If “Yes” then continue, if “No” then make a note and continue)
Continue to step 7 to try a ‘manual start’ or ‘kick start’. Please note that if it’s not sunny outside where you are at the moment, then you will need to wait for a sunny day before continuing to step 7 in order to successfully attempt a manual start.
&bull (C) TRY TO MANUALLY START THE PUMP (steps 7-10)
7- Remove the pump cover with filter (pull off the end with the ‘smart solar’ logo and the slits all around it) then remove the impeller cover with spout (turn the piece shaped like the letter ‘b’ with the 3 prongs clockwise from the 12 o’clock to 2 o’clock position so the grooves line up and it comes off) to expose the white impeller.
8- Make sure that the switch on the panel is up in the ‘I’(on) position.
9- Go outside and hold the solar panel up in the air facing direct sunlight
(If you are standing indoors under artificial light, or behind a window or screen, or the sun is being filtered by clouds or trees then step 10 will not work. It must be direct sunlight.)
10- While the panel is in direct sunlight turn the impeller clockwise.
-Does it start to turn by itself?
(If “Yes, the pump didn’t run when I plugged it directly into the battery directly [step 3] but it runs now when I do a manual start” then the pump and panel are functioning normally and the battery needs to be charged. Re-assemble the pump, turn the switch so the arrow faces the ‘O’ (off) and allow it to charge in direct sunlight for at least 2-3 sunny days before turning the unit on again)
(If “No, the pump didn’t run when I plugged it into the battery directly [step 3] and or when I do a manual start in direct sun [step 10]” then replace you might need either a new pump or new panel. If the switch on your solar panel seemed fine and clicks when you turn it then we start by replacing the pump. If the switch on your solar panel is loose, lifts up, and doesn’t click when you turn it then we suggest replacing the solar panel)
&bull Remove the pump from the fountain.
&bull Remove the panel from the ground or wall and lay it on a soft surface.
&bull Make sure the solar panel and pump are clean and dry.
If your fountain is not new and the pump is dirty or the solar panel has hard water build up on the glass then perform the regular cleaning maintenance that is listed in your instruction manual. If you have already done it then continue to step 1:
&bull (A) TRY THE PUMP TO BATTERY DIRECTLY (steps 1-3)
1- Pull apart the set of green plugs between the solar panel and battery.
2- Pull apart the set of black plugs between the solar panel and pump.
3- Plug the pump into the battery directly by mixing & match the plugs.
Connect the green one with the red o-ring (from the battery) to the black one with the sleeve (from the pump).
Note: You do not need to connect the black one with the red o-ring (from the panel) into the green one with the sleeve (from the panel). Plugging the panel into itself will do nothing.
-Can you hear or feel the pump running?
(if “Yes” then you know that the pump and battery are both good)
(if “No, the pump makes no noise or vibration” then the battery might not be charged. Don’t assume that either the battery or pump need to be replaced just yet).
&bull (B) TRY THE PUMP & BATTERY TO PANEL ON ‘I’ (steps 4-6)
4- Re-connect both sets of plugs back up the correctly (green to green, and black to black so both red o-rings are covered)
5- Slide the switch on the panel up to the ‘I’(on) position.
-Can you hear or feel the pump running?
(If “Yes, the pump runs during steps 3 & 5” then all parts are functioning properly and you can stop troubleshooting now. Place the pump back into the fountain)
(If “No, the pump runs during step 3 but not step 5” then continue to step 6.
The battery might not be charged so don’t assume that it needs to be replaced yet. If the battery is very low then step 3 will work but step 5 will not because it has just enough power to run the pump directly but doesn’t have enough power to go through the panel to run the pump)
6- Physically inspect the panel and switch.
-Is the glass cracked?
(If “No” then continue, if “Yes” then it needs to be replaced)
-Does the switch feel loose or fall down to ‘O’ when you slide it up to the ‘I’?
(If “No” then continue, if “Yes” then make a note and continue)
-Does the switch click when you slide it back and forth from ‘O’ to ‘I’?
(If “Yes” then continue, if “No” then make a note and continue)
Continue to step 7 to try a ‘manual start’ or ‘kick start’. Please note that if it’s not sunny outside where you are at the moment, then you will need to wait for a sunny day before continuing to step 7 in order to successfully attempt a manual start.
&bull (C) TRY TO MANUALLY START THE PUMP (steps 7-10)
7- Remove the pump cover with filter (pull off the end with the ‘smart solar’ logo and the slits all around it) then remove the impeller cover with spout (turn the piece shaped like the letter ‘b’ with the 3 prongs clockwise from the 12 o’clock to 2 o’clock position so the grooves line up and it comes off) to expose the white impeller.
8- Make sure that the switch on the panel is up in the ‘I’(on) position.
9- Go outside and hold the solar panel up in the air facing direct sunlight
(If you are standing indoors under artificial light, or behind a window or screen, or the sun is being filtered by clouds or trees then step 10 will not work. It must be direct sunlight.)
10- While the panel is in direct sunlight turn the impeller clockwise.
-Does it start to turn by itself?
(If “Yes, the pump didn’t run when I plugged it directly into the battery directly [step 3] but it runs now when I do a manual start” then the pump and panel are functioning normally and the battery needs to be charged. Re-assemble the pump, turn the switch so the arrow faces the ‘O’ (off) and allow it to charge in direct sunlight for at least 2-3 sunny days before turning the unit on again)
(If “No, the pump didn’t run when I plugged it into the battery directly [step 3] and or when I do a manual start in direct sun [step 10]” then replace you might need either a new pump or new panel. If the switch on your solar panel seemed fine and clicks when you turn it then we start by replacing the pump. If the switch on your solar panel is loose, lifts up, and doesn’t click when you turn it then we suggest replacing the solar panel)
• Birdbath with SOD - My pump is not running at all. What do I do?
If you just set your fountain up for the first time we recommend allowing it to fully charge in direct sunlight for at least 2-3 sunny days with the switch arrow facing the ‘O’ (off & charge) before attempting to use the product. If you have already done that then please try the following steps:
&bull Lift the solar panel with attached pump up out of the fountain.
&bull Make sure the solar panel and pump are both clean and dry.
If your fountain is not new and the pump is dirty or the solar panel has hard water build up on the glass then perform the regular cleaning maintenance that is listed in your instruction manual. If you have already done it then continue to step 1:
&bull (A) TRY THE PUMP TO BATTERY DIRECTLY (steps 1-3)
1- Pull apart the set of green plugs between the solar panel and battery.
2- Pull apart the set of black plugs between the solar panel and pump.
3- Plug the pump into the battery directly by mixing & match the plugs.
Connect the green one with the red o-ring (from the battery) to the black one with the sleeve (from the pump).
Note: You do not need to connect the black one with the red o-ring (from the panel) into the green one with the sleeve (from the panel). Plugging the panel into itself will do nothing.
-Can you hear or feel the pump running?
(if “Yes” then you know that the pump and battery are both good)
(if “No, the pump makes no noise or vibration” then the battery might not be charged. Don’t assume that either the battery or pump need to be replaced just yet).
&bull (B) TRY THE PUMP & BATTERY TO PANEL ON ‘I’ (steps 4-6)
4- Re-connect both sets of plugs back up the correctly (green to green, and black to black so both red o-rings are covered)
5- Turn the switch on the panel so the arrow is facing the ‘I’(on).
-Can you hear or feel the pump running?
(If “Yes, the pump runs during steps 3 & 5” then all parts are functioning properly and you can stop troubleshooting now)
(If “No, the pump runs during step 3 but not step 5” then continue to step 6.
The battery might not be charged so don’t assume that it needs to be replaced yet. If the battery is very low then step 3 will work but step 5 will not because it has just enough power to run the pump directly but doesn’t have enough power to go through the panel to run the pump)
6- Physically inspect the panel and switch.
-Is the glass cracked?
(If “No” then continue, if “Yes” then it needs to be replaced)
-Does the switch on the panel feel loose or lift up?
(If “No” then continue, if “Yes” then make a note and continue)
-Does the switch click at certain intervals when you turn it?
(If “Yes” then continue, if “No” then make a note and continue)
Continue to step 7 to try a ‘manual start’ or ‘kick start’. Please note that if it’s not sunny outside where you are at the moment, then you will need to wait for a sunny day before continuing to step 7 in order to successfully attempt a manual start.
&bull (C) TRY TO MANUALLY START THE PUMP (steps 7-10)
7- Remove the pump cover with filter (pull off the end with the ‘smart solar’ logo and the slits all around it) then remove the impeller cover with spout (turn the piece shaped like the letter ‘b’ with the 3 prongs clockwise from the 12 o’clock to 2 o’clock position so the grooves line up and it comes off) to expose the white impeller.
8- Make sure that the arrow on the switch is facing the ‘I’ (on).
9- Go outside and hold the solar panel up in the air facing direct sunlight
(If you are standing indoors under artificial light, or behind a window or screen, or the sun is being filtered by clouds or trees then step 10 will not work. It must be direct sunlight.)
10- While the panel is in direct sunlight turn the impeller clockwise.
-Does it start to turn by itself?
(If “Yes, the pump didn’t run when I plugged it directly into the battery directly [step 3] but it runs now when I do a manual start” then the pump and panel are functioning normally and the battery needs to be charged. Re-assemble the pump, turn the switch so the arrow faces the ‘O’ (off) and allow it to charge in direct sunlight for at least 2-3 sunny days before turning the unit on again)
(If “No, the pump didn’t run when I plugged it into the battery directly [step 3] and or when I do a manual start in direct sun [step 10]” then replace you might need either a new pump or new panel. If the switch on your solar panel seemed fine and clicks when you turn it then we start by replacing the pump. If the switch on your solar panel is loose, lifts up, and doesn’t click when you turn it then we suggest replacing the solar panel)
&bull Lift the solar panel with attached pump up out of the fountain.
&bull Make sure the solar panel and pump are both clean and dry.
If your fountain is not new and the pump is dirty or the solar panel has hard water build up on the glass then perform the regular cleaning maintenance that is listed in your instruction manual. If you have already done it then continue to step 1:
&bull (A) TRY THE PUMP TO BATTERY DIRECTLY (steps 1-3)
1- Pull apart the set of green plugs between the solar panel and battery.
2- Pull apart the set of black plugs between the solar panel and pump.
3- Plug the pump into the battery directly by mixing & match the plugs.
Connect the green one with the red o-ring (from the battery) to the black one with the sleeve (from the pump).
Note: You do not need to connect the black one with the red o-ring (from the panel) into the green one with the sleeve (from the panel). Plugging the panel into itself will do nothing.
-Can you hear or feel the pump running?
(if “Yes” then you know that the pump and battery are both good)
(if “No, the pump makes no noise or vibration” then the battery might not be charged. Don’t assume that either the battery or pump need to be replaced just yet).
&bull (B) TRY THE PUMP & BATTERY TO PANEL ON ‘I’ (steps 4-6)
4- Re-connect both sets of plugs back up the correctly (green to green, and black to black so both red o-rings are covered)
5- Turn the switch on the panel so the arrow is facing the ‘I’(on).
-Can you hear or feel the pump running?
(If “Yes, the pump runs during steps 3 & 5” then all parts are functioning properly and you can stop troubleshooting now)
(If “No, the pump runs during step 3 but not step 5” then continue to step 6.
The battery might not be charged so don’t assume that it needs to be replaced yet. If the battery is very low then step 3 will work but step 5 will not because it has just enough power to run the pump directly but doesn’t have enough power to go through the panel to run the pump)
6- Physically inspect the panel and switch.
-Is the glass cracked?
(If “No” then continue, if “Yes” then it needs to be replaced)
-Does the switch on the panel feel loose or lift up?
(If “No” then continue, if “Yes” then make a note and continue)
-Does the switch click at certain intervals when you turn it?
(If “Yes” then continue, if “No” then make a note and continue)
Continue to step 7 to try a ‘manual start’ or ‘kick start’. Please note that if it’s not sunny outside where you are at the moment, then you will need to wait for a sunny day before continuing to step 7 in order to successfully attempt a manual start.
&bull (C) TRY TO MANUALLY START THE PUMP (steps 7-10)
7- Remove the pump cover with filter (pull off the end with the ‘smart solar’ logo and the slits all around it) then remove the impeller cover with spout (turn the piece shaped like the letter ‘b’ with the 3 prongs clockwise from the 12 o’clock to 2 o’clock position so the grooves line up and it comes off) to expose the white impeller.
8- Make sure that the arrow on the switch is facing the ‘I’ (on).
9- Go outside and hold the solar panel up in the air facing direct sunlight
(If you are standing indoors under artificial light, or behind a window or screen, or the sun is being filtered by clouds or trees then step 10 will not work. It must be direct sunlight.)
10- While the panel is in direct sunlight turn the impeller clockwise.
-Does it start to turn by itself?
(If “Yes, the pump didn’t run when I plugged it directly into the battery directly [step 3] but it runs now when I do a manual start” then the pump and panel are functioning normally and the battery needs to be charged. Re-assemble the pump, turn the switch so the arrow faces the ‘O’ (off) and allow it to charge in direct sunlight for at least 2-3 sunny days before turning the unit on again)
(If “No, the pump didn’t run when I plugged it into the battery directly [step 3] and or when I do a manual start in direct sun [step 10]” then replace you might need either a new pump or new panel. If the switch on your solar panel seemed fine and clicks when you turn it then we start by replacing the pump. If the switch on your solar panel is loose, lifts up, and doesn’t click when you turn it then we suggest replacing the solar panel)
• 2-Tier with SOD - My pump is not running at all. What do I do?
If you just set your fountain up for the first time we recommend allowing it to fully charge in direct sunlight for at least 2-3 sunny days with the switch arrow facing the ‘O’ (off & charge) before attempting to use the product. If you have already done that then please try the following steps:
&bull Lift the top tier with solar panel and pump out of the fountain.
&bull Gently lay the top tier on its side on a soft surface.
&bull Hold the panel in place, and pull the pump to separate the tubing.
&bull Lift the panel out of the top tier (or push it up from underneath).
&bull Make sure the solar panel and pump are clean and dry.
If your fountain is not new and the pump is dirty or the solar panel has hard water build up on the glass then perform the regular cleaning maintenance that is listed in your instruction manual. If you have already done it then continue to step 1:
&bull (A) TRY THE PUMP TO BATTERY DIRECTLY (steps 1-3)
1- Pull apart the set of green plugs between the solar panel and battery.
2- Pull apart the set of black plugs between the solar panel and pump.
3- Plug the pump into the battery directly by mixing & match the plugs.
Connect the green one with the red o-ring (from the battery) to the black one with the sleeve (from the pump).
Note: You do not need to connect the black one with the red o-ring (from the panel) into the green one with the sleeve (from the panel). Plugging the panel into itself will do nothing.
-Can you hear or feel the pump running?
(if “Yes” then you know that the pump and battery are both good)
(if “No, the pump makes no noise or vibration” then the battery might not be charged. Don’t assume that either the battery or pump need to be replaced just yet).
&bull (B) TRY THE PUMP & BATTERY TO PANEL ON ‘I’ (steps 4-6)
4- Re-connect both sets of plugs back up the correctly (green to green, and black to black so both red o-rings are covered)
5- Turn the switch on the panel so the arrow is facing the ‘I’(on).
-Can you hear or feel the pump running?
(If “Yes, the pump runs during steps 3 & 5” then all parts are functioning properly and you can stop troubleshooting now)
(If “No, the pump runs during step 3 but not step 5” then continue to step 6.
The battery might not be charged so don’t assume that it needs to be replaced yet. If the battery is very low then step 3 will work but step 5 will not because it has just enough power to run the pump directly but doesn’t have enough power to go through the panel to run the pump)
6- Physically inspect the panel and switch.
-Is the glass cracked?
(If “No” then continue, if “Yes” then it needs to be replaced)
-Does the switch on the panel feel loose or lift up?
(If “No” then continue, if “Yes” then make a note and continue)
-Does the switch click at certain intervals when you turn it?
(If “Yes” then continue, if “No” then make a note and continue)
Continue to step 7 to try a ‘manual start’ or ‘kick start’. Please note that if it’s not sunny outside where you are at the moment, then you will need to wait for a sunny day before continuing to step 7 in order to successfully attempt a manual start.
&bull (C) TRY TO MANUALLY START THE PUMP (steps 7-10)
7- Remove the pump cover with filter (pull off the end with the ‘smart solar’ logo and the slits all around it) then remove the impeller cover with spout (turn the piece shaped like the letter ‘b’ with the 3 prongs clockwise from the 12 o’clock to 2 o’clock position so the grooves line up and it comes off) to expose the white impeller.
8- Make sure that the arrow on the switch is facing the ‘I’ (on).
9- Go outside and hold the solar panel up in the air facing direct sunlight
(If you are standing indoors under artificial light, or behind a window or screen, or the sun is being filtered by clouds or trees then step 10 will not work. It must be direct sunlight.)
10- While the panel is in direct sunlight turn the impeller clockwise.
-Does it start to turn by itself?
(If “Yes, the pump didn’t run when I plugged it directly into the battery directly [step 3] but it runs now when I do a manual start” then the pump and panel are functioning normally and the battery needs to be charged. Re-assemble the pump, then reassemble all the parts back into the top tier and turn the switch on the panel so the arrow faces the ‘O’ (off). Allow it to charge in direct sunlight for at least 2-3 sunny days before turning the unit on again)
(If “No, the pump didn’t run when I plugged it into the battery directly [step 3] and or when I do a manual start in direct sun [step 10]” then replace you might need either a new pump or new panel. If the switch on your solar panel seemed fine and clicks when you turn it then we start by replacing the pump. If the switch on your solar panel is loose, lifts up, and doesn’t click when you turn it then we suggest replacing the solar panel)
&bull Lift the top tier with solar panel and pump out of the fountain.
&bull Gently lay the top tier on its side on a soft surface.
&bull Hold the panel in place, and pull the pump to separate the tubing.
&bull Lift the panel out of the top tier (or push it up from underneath).
&bull Make sure the solar panel and pump are clean and dry.
If your fountain is not new and the pump is dirty or the solar panel has hard water build up on the glass then perform the regular cleaning maintenance that is listed in your instruction manual. If you have already done it then continue to step 1:
&bull (A) TRY THE PUMP TO BATTERY DIRECTLY (steps 1-3)
1- Pull apart the set of green plugs between the solar panel and battery.
2- Pull apart the set of black plugs between the solar panel and pump.
3- Plug the pump into the battery directly by mixing & match the plugs.
Connect the green one with the red o-ring (from the battery) to the black one with the sleeve (from the pump).
Note: You do not need to connect the black one with the red o-ring (from the panel) into the green one with the sleeve (from the panel). Plugging the panel into itself will do nothing.
-Can you hear or feel the pump running?
(if “Yes” then you know that the pump and battery are both good)
(if “No, the pump makes no noise or vibration” then the battery might not be charged. Don’t assume that either the battery or pump need to be replaced just yet).
&bull (B) TRY THE PUMP & BATTERY TO PANEL ON ‘I’ (steps 4-6)
4- Re-connect both sets of plugs back up the correctly (green to green, and black to black so both red o-rings are covered)
5- Turn the switch on the panel so the arrow is facing the ‘I’(on).
-Can you hear or feel the pump running?
(If “Yes, the pump runs during steps 3 & 5” then all parts are functioning properly and you can stop troubleshooting now)
(If “No, the pump runs during step 3 but not step 5” then continue to step 6.
The battery might not be charged so don’t assume that it needs to be replaced yet. If the battery is very low then step 3 will work but step 5 will not because it has just enough power to run the pump directly but doesn’t have enough power to go through the panel to run the pump)
6- Physically inspect the panel and switch.
-Is the glass cracked?
(If “No” then continue, if “Yes” then it needs to be replaced)
-Does the switch on the panel feel loose or lift up?
(If “No” then continue, if “Yes” then make a note and continue)
-Does the switch click at certain intervals when you turn it?
(If “Yes” then continue, if “No” then make a note and continue)
Continue to step 7 to try a ‘manual start’ or ‘kick start’. Please note that if it’s not sunny outside where you are at the moment, then you will need to wait for a sunny day before continuing to step 7 in order to successfully attempt a manual start.
&bull (C) TRY TO MANUALLY START THE PUMP (steps 7-10)
7- Remove the pump cover with filter (pull off the end with the ‘smart solar’ logo and the slits all around it) then remove the impeller cover with spout (turn the piece shaped like the letter ‘b’ with the 3 prongs clockwise from the 12 o’clock to 2 o’clock position so the grooves line up and it comes off) to expose the white impeller.
8- Make sure that the arrow on the switch is facing the ‘I’ (on).
9- Go outside and hold the solar panel up in the air facing direct sunlight
(If you are standing indoors under artificial light, or behind a window or screen, or the sun is being filtered by clouds or trees then step 10 will not work. It must be direct sunlight.)
10- While the panel is in direct sunlight turn the impeller clockwise.
-Does it start to turn by itself?
(If “Yes, the pump didn’t run when I plugged it directly into the battery directly [step 3] but it runs now when I do a manual start” then the pump and panel are functioning normally and the battery needs to be charged. Re-assemble the pump, then reassemble all the parts back into the top tier and turn the switch on the panel so the arrow faces the ‘O’ (off). Allow it to charge in direct sunlight for at least 2-3 sunny days before turning the unit on again)
(If “No, the pump didn’t run when I plugged it into the battery directly [step 3] and or when I do a manual start in direct sun [step 10]” then replace you might need either a new pump or new panel. If the switch on your solar panel seemed fine and clicks when you turn it then we start by replacing the pump. If the switch on your solar panel is loose, lifts up, and doesn’t click when you turn it then we suggest replacing the solar panel)
• 2-Tier SOD - My pump works but it’s very weak. What do I do?
Do not assume that you need a new battery just because it comes with one.
Please review the troubleshooting information below:
ASSEMBLY
The first thing you should do is double check the assembly. You want to make sure that the tube that comes up through the bung from the pump is inserted into the bottom of the solar panel tightly. To check this, simply walk up to your fountain and gently tug on the tube that comes up out of the solar panel. If you can lift your solar panel out of the top tier and see the wire that comes out of the bottom of it then you do NOT have it connected correctly because the panel is just resting on the fountain and that is causing it to seem weak. To correct this, set the solar panel into the top of the tier and hold it in place with one hand, and with your other hand grab the pump underneath and then squeeze them together. If done properly then the pump, tubes, and panel should all act as one piece and the solar panel will NOT lift out of the top tier when you tug on it.
OPTIMUM CONDITIONS & ORIENTATION (for SOD integrated panels)
The solar panel needs to be placed outside in direct sunlight (to run if the battery is low or to charge the battery), not indoors behind a window or screen which will filter the light, and not under artificial lighting (i.e. fluorescent or halogen) which will not make it work. Chose a suitable outdoor location where there are no trees that will filter the sunlight. Even the smallest amount of shading reduces panel’s output significantly.
The weather needs to be clear, not hazy or partly cloudy. Just because it’s hot outside and the panel is hot when you touch it does not mean the fountain should be working. Most people assume that the hotter it is outside the better the fountain will work. This is a common misconception, because even though the amount of energy produced by a solar panel is proportional to the strength of the sunlight it receives (based on season), contrary to what you may expect, the higher the temperature of the solar panel the more its output actually decreases, not increases! Generally, temperatures around 68°F or 20°C (room temp) are ideal. You will see the best results in the spring and summer months when the hours between sunrise and sunset are the longest, and in the middle of the day when the sun is directly overhead, or when the battery is fully charged. Sunlight in the early morning and late afternoon on a nice day (even though it’s bright) may not be strong enough to fully power the pump (if the battery is low) because the sun is at a low angle, unless the battery is charged then it will run using the battery. Since you can’t tilt the solar panel because it’s integrated into the fountain it will be less efficient at this time. Also, sunlight throughout the entire day during the late autumn and winter may not be strong enough to fully power the pump, and may take longer to fully charge the battery.
PUMP COVER WITH FILTER (Part # ‘160xfk’, for pumps made in China)
Hold the pump so you can read the black label on the side. The left half of the pump has slits all around it. This end of the pump is the pump cover and it has a spongy filter inside of it. You can pull this end straight off. Do not try to twist it off. Once it’s off, remove the filter from the cover. Rinse the filter out and clean the slits on the cover. Rinse the filter regularly so that it does not become dirty enough to restrict the water flow. If you are missing the pump cover then you need to order replacement parts.
IMPELLER COVER (Part # ‘n/a’, for pumps made in China)
Underneath the pump cover is a piece with 3 prongs coming out of it, a hole in the middle and a spout at the top. This piece is the impeller cover. Through the hole in the center you can see the white impeller. Turn the cover clockwise from the 12 o’clock position to the 2 o’clock position and when the tabs on the pump body line up with the grooves on the cover it will come off. Do not try to pull the cover off without turning it first or you will break one of the tabs on the pump body off. Clean the inside of the impeller cover to make sure there is no sediment or scale build-up inside that would restrict the impeller from turning properly. If you are missing the impeller cover then you need to order replacement parts.
IMPELLER (Part # ‘n/a’, for pumps made in China)
Underneath the pump cover and the impeller cover is a white magnetic impeller with four fins that spins on a silver metal pin. The pin is fixed and does not turn. Remove the magnetic impeller by pinching one of the fins and pulling it straight off. If the fins on the impeller do not appear to be white then it is not clean. Make sure the impeller is clean and that there is no sediment or scale build-up on it that would restrict it from turning easily. If you are missing the impeller then you need to order replacement parts.
BATTERY (Part # ‘BPM4V1000’, for 2-tier Solar-On-Demand only)
If you have checked the assembly and the panel does not lift out of the top tier, you have done the cleaning maintenance, you have optimum conditions, and you do not have the fountain head spray piece on the panel, and it still seems to be weak then you might need to replace the a part. If it runs weak when in strong direct sunlight then you may need to replace the pump. If it runs very well when in strong direct sunlight but it runs weak when using the battery after charging it up for 2-3 days then you might need a new battery.
Please review the troubleshooting information below:
ASSEMBLY
The first thing you should do is double check the assembly. You want to make sure that the tube that comes up through the bung from the pump is inserted into the bottom of the solar panel tightly. To check this, simply walk up to your fountain and gently tug on the tube that comes up out of the solar panel. If you can lift your solar panel out of the top tier and see the wire that comes out of the bottom of it then you do NOT have it connected correctly because the panel is just resting on the fountain and that is causing it to seem weak. To correct this, set the solar panel into the top of the tier and hold it in place with one hand, and with your other hand grab the pump underneath and then squeeze them together. If done properly then the pump, tubes, and panel should all act as one piece and the solar panel will NOT lift out of the top tier when you tug on it.
OPTIMUM CONDITIONS & ORIENTATION (for SOD integrated panels)
The solar panel needs to be placed outside in direct sunlight (to run if the battery is low or to charge the battery), not indoors behind a window or screen which will filter the light, and not under artificial lighting (i.e. fluorescent or halogen) which will not make it work. Chose a suitable outdoor location where there are no trees that will filter the sunlight. Even the smallest amount of shading reduces panel’s output significantly.
The weather needs to be clear, not hazy or partly cloudy. Just because it’s hot outside and the panel is hot when you touch it does not mean the fountain should be working. Most people assume that the hotter it is outside the better the fountain will work. This is a common misconception, because even though the amount of energy produced by a solar panel is proportional to the strength of the sunlight it receives (based on season), contrary to what you may expect, the higher the temperature of the solar panel the more its output actually decreases, not increases! Generally, temperatures around 68°F or 20°C (room temp) are ideal. You will see the best results in the spring and summer months when the hours between sunrise and sunset are the longest, and in the middle of the day when the sun is directly overhead, or when the battery is fully charged. Sunlight in the early morning and late afternoon on a nice day (even though it’s bright) may not be strong enough to fully power the pump (if the battery is low) because the sun is at a low angle, unless the battery is charged then it will run using the battery. Since you can’t tilt the solar panel because it’s integrated into the fountain it will be less efficient at this time. Also, sunlight throughout the entire day during the late autumn and winter may not be strong enough to fully power the pump, and may take longer to fully charge the battery.
PUMP COVER WITH FILTER (Part # ‘160xfk’, for pumps made in China)
Hold the pump so you can read the black label on the side. The left half of the pump has slits all around it. This end of the pump is the pump cover and it has a spongy filter inside of it. You can pull this end straight off. Do not try to twist it off. Once it’s off, remove the filter from the cover. Rinse the filter out and clean the slits on the cover. Rinse the filter regularly so that it does not become dirty enough to restrict the water flow. If you are missing the pump cover then you need to order replacement parts.
IMPELLER COVER (Part # ‘n/a’, for pumps made in China)
Underneath the pump cover is a piece with 3 prongs coming out of it, a hole in the middle and a spout at the top. This piece is the impeller cover. Through the hole in the center you can see the white impeller. Turn the cover clockwise from the 12 o’clock position to the 2 o’clock position and when the tabs on the pump body line up with the grooves on the cover it will come off. Do not try to pull the cover off without turning it first or you will break one of the tabs on the pump body off. Clean the inside of the impeller cover to make sure there is no sediment or scale build-up inside that would restrict the impeller from turning properly. If you are missing the impeller cover then you need to order replacement parts.
IMPELLER (Part # ‘n/a’, for pumps made in China)
Underneath the pump cover and the impeller cover is a white magnetic impeller with four fins that spins on a silver metal pin. The pin is fixed and does not turn. Remove the magnetic impeller by pinching one of the fins and pulling it straight off. If the fins on the impeller do not appear to be white then it is not clean. Make sure the impeller is clean and that there is no sediment or scale build-up on it that would restrict it from turning easily. If you are missing the impeller then you need to order replacement parts.
BATTERY (Part # ‘BPM4V1000’, for 2-tier Solar-On-Demand only)
If you have checked the assembly and the panel does not lift out of the top tier, you have done the cleaning maintenance, you have optimum conditions, and you do not have the fountain head spray piece on the panel, and it still seems to be weak then you might need to replace the a part. If it runs weak when in strong direct sunlight then you may need to replace the pump. If it runs very well when in strong direct sunlight but it runs weak when using the battery after charging it up for 2-3 days then you might need a new battery.
• 2-Tier SOD - How do I re-assemble all the parts back into the top tier?
If you have taken apart the top tier of your fountain to replace a part or clean it then you will need to make sure you re-assemble it properly. Check that you have all the pieces before you begin: pump (with attached impeller, impeller cover with spout, and pump cover with filter), solar panel, battery pack (with green plug), tube kit (with two 2 inch long tubes and one 2 inch wide foam bung). The spout on the top of the pump is already tapered but if it’s only less than about ½” then you do not have one of the tubes attached to the pump already. If you are missing any of these parts you will need to order replacement parts. (Part # pump ‘sp-160x01’, panel ‘sb1w5d’ or ‘sb2w0d’, battery ‘bpm4v1000’, tube kit ‘2090kit2’)
If you are holding the panel so you can read the label on the bottom of it; slide the battery pack up into the 2 rails on the bottom of the panel with the black label facing the bottom of the panel and the ‘smart solar’ logo facing you (if there is a foam strip on the bottom of the panel that gets in the way then you can push the battery past it or remove it). Connect the green plug from the battery to the green plug on the solar panel so that the red o-ring disappears and is covered all the way around. Make sure the pump is assembled (Put the magnetic impeller to the pump. Attach the impeller cover with spout by putting it on the pump in the 2 o’clock position so the grooves line up, and then rotate it counter clock-wise to the 12 o’clock position to lock it on. Slide the pump cover on over the impeller cover). Attach the two 2 inch long tubes to each other and to the pump. Slide the foam bung onto the tubes and down to the bottom of the first tube (don’t slide it onto the second tube which is closer to the pump). Gently lay the top tier on its side on a soft surface. Place the pump up inside the top tier from underneath and extend the tube and wire through the hole in the top tier. Connect the black plug from the pump and to the black plug from the panel making sure the red o-ring disappears and is completely covered all the way around. Hold the panel in one hand and the pump in the other hand; insert the tube from the pump into the hole in the bottom of the solar panel. If attached properly then the pump, tubes, and panel should all act as one piece. Feed the wire back through the hole so that the connection between the pump and panel in the lower portion of the tier where the pump is. Set the solar panel into place. Insert the panel wire into the slit in the side of the bung. Lastly, hold the panel in place with one hand and with the other hand, slide the foam bung up the tube away from the pump into the hole to seal it. Make sure the bung is completely in the hole all the way around. Place the fully assembled top tier back into the main bowl of the fountain. Fill the main bowl to make sure that the pump is completely submerged in water. Turn the switch on the panel so the arrow faces the ‘O’ (off) if you want the battery to charge, or turn it to the ‘I’ (on) if you want the pump to run. It may take a few minutes, either in direct sunlight or with a charged battery, before all the air is expelled and water begins to spray up through the panel. Don’t pour water down the tube to ‘help get the air out’ as this will only make it harder for the pump impeller to spin in the right direction.
Exceptions: The Richmond 2-Tier comes with only 1 tube between the pump and panel. The Milano 2-Tier comes with 4 tubes. The newest version of our pump #SP-160X01 will not fit into the opening of the top tier for the Vineyard 2-Tier.
Note: The order of the top tier assembly steps can vary if necessary. We suggest using any method that is easier for you during installation as long as the final result is the same.
If you are holding the panel so you can read the label on the bottom of it; slide the battery pack up into the 2 rails on the bottom of the panel with the black label facing the bottom of the panel and the ‘smart solar’ logo facing you (if there is a foam strip on the bottom of the panel that gets in the way then you can push the battery past it or remove it). Connect the green plug from the battery to the green plug on the solar panel so that the red o-ring disappears and is covered all the way around. Make sure the pump is assembled (Put the magnetic impeller to the pump. Attach the impeller cover with spout by putting it on the pump in the 2 o’clock position so the grooves line up, and then rotate it counter clock-wise to the 12 o’clock position to lock it on. Slide the pump cover on over the impeller cover). Attach the two 2 inch long tubes to each other and to the pump. Slide the foam bung onto the tubes and down to the bottom of the first tube (don’t slide it onto the second tube which is closer to the pump). Gently lay the top tier on its side on a soft surface. Place the pump up inside the top tier from underneath and extend the tube and wire through the hole in the top tier. Connect the black plug from the pump and to the black plug from the panel making sure the red o-ring disappears and is completely covered all the way around. Hold the panel in one hand and the pump in the other hand; insert the tube from the pump into the hole in the bottom of the solar panel. If attached properly then the pump, tubes, and panel should all act as one piece. Feed the wire back through the hole so that the connection between the pump and panel in the lower portion of the tier where the pump is. Set the solar panel into place. Insert the panel wire into the slit in the side of the bung. Lastly, hold the panel in place with one hand and with the other hand, slide the foam bung up the tube away from the pump into the hole to seal it. Make sure the bung is completely in the hole all the way around. Place the fully assembled top tier back into the main bowl of the fountain. Fill the main bowl to make sure that the pump is completely submerged in water. Turn the switch on the panel so the arrow faces the ‘O’ (off) if you want the battery to charge, or turn it to the ‘I’ (on) if you want the pump to run. It may take a few minutes, either in direct sunlight or with a charged battery, before all the air is expelled and water begins to spray up through the panel. Don’t pour water down the tube to ‘help get the air out’ as this will only make it harder for the pump impeller to spin in the right direction.
Exceptions: The Richmond 2-Tier comes with only 1 tube between the pump and panel. The Milano 2-Tier comes with 4 tubes. The newest version of our pump #SP-160X01 will not fit into the opening of the top tier for the Vineyard 2-Tier.
Note: The order of the top tier assembly steps can vary if necessary. We suggest using any method that is easier for you during installation as long as the final result is the same.
Solar-On-Demand Fountains (battery) with Lights
• Can you explain how the Solar-On-Demand with Lights works?
A Solar-On-Demand fountain with lights does have a battery pack but some people misunderstand how it functions.
The 1 battery pack has 2 sets of batteries inside: 4 AA’s for the pump & 1 AA for the lights. The pump, on/off switch, and 4 AA’s work independently from the LED’s, light sensor, and 1 AA. They really do not affect each other’s performance because they are on 2 separate circuits, so they should be thought of as 2 different systems but it does work in a certain order. As the amount of sunlight it receives increases, it’s designed to charge the 1 AA for the lights 1st and then charge the 4 AA for the pump 2nd, so the lights should come on almost every night, unless you have consecutive cloudy days.
The switch on the panel only controls the pump, NOT the lights. The LED’s are only controlled by the light sensor which tells the lights to automatically come on when it’s dark enough and turn off when it senses light. So regardless of which way the switch is facing, the LED’s should come on every night since the 1 AA battery for the lights charges 1st and they use very little energy. Having the lights on at night will never take power away from the pump.
The unit cannot run the pump and adequately charge the batteries for the pump at the same time. However, the battery for the lights will always be charged first even when the pump is running.
This is how it works:
If you have the switch in the 'I' (on) position the panel will either use the power from the sun (day time) or take power from the 4 AA’s in the battery pack (cloudy or night time) and dedicate it to running the pump, so the batteries for the pump will not be getting charged at this time, but the battery for the lights might be getting charged.
To run the pump at night you will need to leave the switch in the 'O' (off & charge) position during the day so that the panel will take the power from the sun and charge the battery for the lights and also charge the batteries for the pump, so the pump will not be running at this time. Then when you turn the unit on at night both the pump and lights will be working.
The 1 battery pack has 2 sets of batteries inside: 4 AA’s for the pump & 1 AA for the lights. The pump, on/off switch, and 4 AA’s work independently from the LED’s, light sensor, and 1 AA. They really do not affect each other’s performance because they are on 2 separate circuits, so they should be thought of as 2 different systems but it does work in a certain order. As the amount of sunlight it receives increases, it’s designed to charge the 1 AA for the lights 1st and then charge the 4 AA for the pump 2nd, so the lights should come on almost every night, unless you have consecutive cloudy days.
The switch on the panel only controls the pump, NOT the lights. The LED’s are only controlled by the light sensor which tells the lights to automatically come on when it’s dark enough and turn off when it senses light. So regardless of which way the switch is facing, the LED’s should come on every night since the 1 AA battery for the lights charges 1st and they use very little energy. Having the lights on at night will never take power away from the pump.
The unit cannot run the pump and adequately charge the batteries for the pump at the same time. However, the battery for the lights will always be charged first even when the pump is running.
This is how it works:
If you have the switch in the 'I' (on) position the panel will either use the power from the sun (day time) or take power from the 4 AA’s in the battery pack (cloudy or night time) and dedicate it to running the pump, so the batteries for the pump will not be getting charged at this time, but the battery for the lights might be getting charged.
To run the pump at night you will need to leave the switch in the 'O' (off & charge) position during the day so that the panel will take the power from the sun and charge the battery for the lights and also charge the batteries for the pump, so the pump will not be running at this time. Then when you turn the unit on at night both the pump and lights will be working.
• Can you walk me through how will it work on a typical day?
If you leave the switch set to ‘O’ (off) for a day to charge the battery then…
the next day the battery pack should be fully charged (both the 1 AA for the lights & the 4 AA’s for the pump) and this is how it will typically operate:
In the early morning…
the lights will not be on as the sun comes up
when you go outside and set the switch to ‘I’ (on) the pump will run using the battery because the sun is not yet strong enough to run the pump
During the day…
the pump runs using the panel if in direct sunlight or using the battery when cloudy
the light sensor does not allow the LED’s to light up
As the sun goes down in the evening…
the pump runs using the 4 AA’s inside the battery pack
the light sensor tells the LED’s to turn on once dark enough using the 1 AA inside the battery pack
At night time…
the 4 AA batteries for the pump run until low (~30% left = less than 4.8v), then the pump shuts off
the 1 AA battery for the lights runs until empty (0% left)
the LED’s will start to blink/flash when the battery gets low
because…
the pump requires 4.8v to run, but the LED’s only use 20-30mAh of power each to light up
so on a full charge the pump can run 6 hrs, but the LED’s can stay on 8 hrs
therefore…
it’s normal for the lights to stay on longer than the pump at night time and does not indicate any issues with the battery
however…
please note the batteries for the pump automatically get used throughout the day anytime the sun goes behind trees or passing clouds so you can’t expect a full 6 hours from the batteries if the pump has been running all day when this happens
If you leave the switch set to ‘I’ (on) for a day to run the pump then…
the next day the battery pack will be empty and this is how it will typically operate:
In the morning…
the lights will be off and the battery for the lights will be empty because they were on all night
the switch will already be set to ‘I’ (on) but the pump will not run because the batteries are empty and the sun is not yet strong enough to run the pump
During the day…
the pump runs using the panel if in direct sunlight but stops when cloudy because the batteries are not charged
the panel uses any extra power that the pump doesn’t need to run and uses it to charge the battery for the lights
the light sensor does not allow the LED’s to light up
As the sun goes down in the evening…
the pump will stop running because the sun isn’t strong and the batteries are not charged
the light sensor tells the LED’s to turn on once dark enough using the 1 AA inside the battery pack
At night time…
the 4 AA batteries for the pump are empty
the 1 AA battery for the lights runs until empty (0% left)
the LED’s will start to blink/flash when the battery gets low
the next day the battery pack should be fully charged (both the 1 AA for the lights & the 4 AA’s for the pump) and this is how it will typically operate:
In the early morning…
the lights will not be on as the sun comes up
when you go outside and set the switch to ‘I’ (on) the pump will run using the battery because the sun is not yet strong enough to run the pump
During the day…
the pump runs using the panel if in direct sunlight or using the battery when cloudy
the light sensor does not allow the LED’s to light up
As the sun goes down in the evening…
the pump runs using the 4 AA’s inside the battery pack
the light sensor tells the LED’s to turn on once dark enough using the 1 AA inside the battery pack
At night time…
the 4 AA batteries for the pump run until low (~30% left = less than 4.8v), then the pump shuts off
the 1 AA battery for the lights runs until empty (0% left)
the LED’s will start to blink/flash when the battery gets low
because…
the pump requires 4.8v to run, but the LED’s only use 20-30mAh of power each to light up
so on a full charge the pump can run 6 hrs, but the LED’s can stay on 8 hrs
therefore…
it’s normal for the lights to stay on longer than the pump at night time and does not indicate any issues with the battery
however…
please note the batteries for the pump automatically get used throughout the day anytime the sun goes behind trees or passing clouds so you can’t expect a full 6 hours from the batteries if the pump has been running all day when this happens
If you leave the switch set to ‘I’ (on) for a day to run the pump then…
the next day the battery pack will be empty and this is how it will typically operate:
In the morning…
the lights will be off and the battery for the lights will be empty because they were on all night
the switch will already be set to ‘I’ (on) but the pump will not run because the batteries are empty and the sun is not yet strong enough to run the pump
During the day…
the pump runs using the panel if in direct sunlight but stops when cloudy because the batteries are not charged
the panel uses any extra power that the pump doesn’t need to run and uses it to charge the battery for the lights
the light sensor does not allow the LED’s to light up
As the sun goes down in the evening…
the pump will stop running because the sun isn’t strong and the batteries are not charged
the light sensor tells the LED’s to turn on once dark enough using the 1 AA inside the battery pack
At night time…
the 4 AA batteries for the pump are empty
the 1 AA battery for the lights runs until empty (0% left)
the LED’s will start to blink/flash when the battery gets low
• My lights are blinking/flashing at night. What do I do?
This can happen for one of two reasons:
Either the water level is low or the battery is low. Remove the solar panel from the fountain and hold it in the air at night. If the lights continue to blink then the battery is low so turn the switch so that the arrow faces the ‘O’ (off & charge) and allow it to charge the next day. If you remove the panel from the fountain and hold it in the air and the lights stop blinking and stay on constantly then the water level in the fountain is low. Put the solar panel back into the fountain and add more water to the fountain until the lights remain on constantly.
Either the water level is low or the battery is low. Remove the solar panel from the fountain and hold it in the air at night. If the lights continue to blink then the battery is low so turn the switch so that the arrow faces the ‘O’ (off & charge) and allow it to charge the next day. If you remove the panel from the fountain and hold it in the air and the lights stop blinking and stay on constantly then the water level in the fountain is low. Put the solar panel back into the fountain and add more water to the fountain until the lights remain on constantly.
• My lights are staying on during the day. What do I do?
This could be happening for one of two reasons:
Either… the plug from the panel to the battery pack (plug with threaded collar & 3 prongs) has been connected incorrectly. There is an arrow on each plug that you can see and is raised up so you can feel it with your finger. You must make sure that the arrows are pointing towards each other when you connect them so the right prongs are lined up with the right holes. If the arrows are not lined up with each other then the lights and pump will not function properly. If the power that is supposed to go from the battery to the pump ends up going to the lights instead then this can cause permanent damage to the LED’s and burn them out.
Or… the plug from the panel to the battery pack is not connected at all. The reason the LED’s light up without the battery pack being plugged in is that the light sensor is powered by the battery pack so when it’s unplugged the sensor is not controlling the LED’s so they take power directly from the panel and light up.
Either… the plug from the panel to the battery pack (plug with threaded collar & 3 prongs) has been connected incorrectly. There is an arrow on each plug that you can see and is raised up so you can feel it with your finger. You must make sure that the arrows are pointing towards each other when you connect them so the right prongs are lined up with the right holes. If the arrows are not lined up with each other then the lights and pump will not function properly. If the power that is supposed to go from the battery to the pump ends up going to the lights instead then this can cause permanent damage to the LED’s and burn them out.
Or… the plug from the panel to the battery pack is not connected at all. The reason the LED’s light up without the battery pack being plugged in is that the light sensor is powered by the battery pack so when it’s unplugged the sensor is not controlling the LED’s so they take power directly from the panel and light up.
• My fountain is new and isn’t working. What do I do?
If you just set your fountain up for the first time we recommend allowing it to fully charge in direct sunlight for at least 2-3 sunny days with the switch arrow facing the ‘O’ (off) before attempting to use the product because the battery pack does not come fully charged when you receive it.
• My pump stopped working at night but the lights still come on at night. What do I do?
If the fountain was running during the day time then the batteries for the pump have been depleted and are low. Since the lights use their own battery the lights will still come on at night. If you want both the pump and lights to work at night we suggesting turning the switch so the arrow faces the ‘O’ (off & charge) so that the pump is off during the day and the battery gets charged so that both will work at night when you turn the switch to the ‘I’ (on).
• My pump works but the lights aren’t coming on at night. What do I do?
If the pump is working but the lights aren’t then you know that the battery pack is good because the battery for the lights gets charged before the batteries for the pump. The most likely reason is that there is another light source (house light, street light) shining on the light sensor and interfering with it, making it think that it’s day time, or the battery pack is not plugged in properly.
To check if the LED’s function try this during the day time:
Unplug the battery pack (plug with threaded collar & 3 prongs) and hold the panel outside in natural light. The LED’s should light up (even if it’s cloudy outside, it works. It doesn’t even need to be direct sunlight because they use such little energy that any natural light will make them work. It does have to be natural light though, artificial light from indoors will not make this work). The reason this happens is the light sensor is powered by the battery pack so when it’s unplugged the sensor is not controlling the LED’s so they take power directly from the panel and light up.
When you reconnect the plug between the panel and battery you must make sure that the arrow on each plug is lined up and pointing towards each other. If the arrows are not lined up then the 3 prongs on the plug will not go into the correct holes in the other plug and it will not function properly.
To check if the LED’s function try this during the day time:
Unplug the battery pack (plug with threaded collar & 3 prongs) and hold the panel outside in natural light. The LED’s should light up (even if it’s cloudy outside, it works. It doesn’t even need to be direct sunlight because they use such little energy that any natural light will make them work. It does have to be natural light though, artificial light from indoors will not make this work). The reason this happens is the light sensor is powered by the battery pack so when it’s unplugged the sensor is not controlling the LED’s so they take power directly from the panel and light up.
When you reconnect the plug between the panel and battery you must make sure that the arrow on each plug is lined up and pointing towards each other. If the arrows are not lined up then the 3 prongs on the plug will not go into the correct holes in the other plug and it will not function properly.
• Both my pump and lights are not working at all. What do I do?
There are a few possible reasons for this:
-If the weather conditions have been cloudy then the pump wouldn’t run and the battery wouldn’t be charged so the lights wouldn’t come on at night either. Make sure the arrows on the 3-prong plug for the battery are lined up pointing at each other and turn the switch on the panel facing the ‘O’ (off/charge). Allow the battery pack to charge outside in direct sunlight for 2-3 days.
-If the weather has been sunny then check to make sure the arrows on the 3-prong plug for the battery are lined up pointing at each other. If they’re lined up then the pump should be run when you have the switch on the panel facing the ‘I’ (on) and the lights should come on at night. If arrows on the plugs are not lined up, then the pump & lights will not work properly at all and it can damage the panel.
To check if the lights function try this during the day time:
Unplug the battery pack (plug with threaded collar & 3 prongs) and hold the panel outside in natural light. If the LED’s light up then you know they work. (The reason this happens is the light sensor is powered by the battery pack so when it’s unplugged the sensor is not controlling the LED’s so they take power directly from the panel and light up.) Then plug the battery (connector with threaded collar & 3 silver prongs) back in. *(Make sure that the arrows on the plugs are pointing towards each other and the prongs are lined up with the correct holes.) If the lights turn off then the battery works because you know it’s charged because the light sensor works because it shut the LED’s shut off.
Take the panel into a dark area with no light (room with no windows or closet). If the LED’s light up then you know they are functioning normally. (If the lights flash, make sure they are not facing a mirror)
To check if the pump functions try this during a sunny day:
Remove the pump cover with filter & the impeller cover from the pump. Make sure the pump is plugged into the panel so the red o-ring is covered and the switch on the panel is facing the ‘I’ (on). Hold the panel outside in direct sunlight and spin the white impeller clockwise a few times with your finger at the same time. The impeller should start to turn on its own (this is called a manual start or kick start). Then take the panel into the shade with the switch still facing the ‘I’ and the pump plugged in. If the pump continues to run then the batteries for the pump are charged. If not then they are not charged.
To check if the switch on the panel functions:
If…
you set the switch to ‘O’ (off & charge)
allowed the battery pack to charge in direct sunlight for 2-3 days
the lights function every night
the pump does not run when you turn the switch to ‘I’
you have done the regular maintenance cleaning (as listed in the instructions)
and you tried a manual start / kick start
Then…
the switch on the solar panel might be faulty.
-If the weather conditions have been cloudy then the pump wouldn’t run and the battery wouldn’t be charged so the lights wouldn’t come on at night either. Make sure the arrows on the 3-prong plug for the battery are lined up pointing at each other and turn the switch on the panel facing the ‘O’ (off/charge). Allow the battery pack to charge outside in direct sunlight for 2-3 days.
-If the weather has been sunny then check to make sure the arrows on the 3-prong plug for the battery are lined up pointing at each other. If they’re lined up then the pump should be run when you have the switch on the panel facing the ‘I’ (on) and the lights should come on at night. If arrows on the plugs are not lined up, then the pump & lights will not work properly at all and it can damage the panel.
To check if the lights function try this during the day time:
Unplug the battery pack (plug with threaded collar & 3 prongs) and hold the panel outside in natural light. If the LED’s light up then you know they work. (The reason this happens is the light sensor is powered by the battery pack so when it’s unplugged the sensor is not controlling the LED’s so they take power directly from the panel and light up.) Then plug the battery (connector with threaded collar & 3 silver prongs) back in. *(Make sure that the arrows on the plugs are pointing towards each other and the prongs are lined up with the correct holes.) If the lights turn off then the battery works because you know it’s charged because the light sensor works because it shut the LED’s shut off.
Take the panel into a dark area with no light (room with no windows or closet). If the LED’s light up then you know they are functioning normally. (If the lights flash, make sure they are not facing a mirror)
To check if the pump functions try this during a sunny day:
Remove the pump cover with filter & the impeller cover from the pump. Make sure the pump is plugged into the panel so the red o-ring is covered and the switch on the panel is facing the ‘I’ (on). Hold the panel outside in direct sunlight and spin the white impeller clockwise a few times with your finger at the same time. The impeller should start to turn on its own (this is called a manual start or kick start). Then take the panel into the shade with the switch still facing the ‘I’ and the pump plugged in. If the pump continues to run then the batteries for the pump are charged. If not then they are not charged.
To check if the switch on the panel functions:
If…
you set the switch to ‘O’ (off & charge)
allowed the battery pack to charge in direct sunlight for 2-3 days
the lights function every night
the pump does not run when you turn the switch to ‘I’
you have done the regular maintenance cleaning (as listed in the instructions)
and you tried a manual start / kick start
Then…
the switch on the solar panel might be faulty.
SOLAR HOME & GARDEN
• RotoBasket - How many times should my plant turn in one day?
The roto-basket is designed to turn plants very slowly at less then 10 revolutions per day in strong direct sunlight. During spring, partly cloudy summer days, autumn, and winter it may only be able to go a few revolutions due to the strength of the sun. It uses a low light solar panel but we still recommend that you place it outside in direct sunlight for best performance.
• RotoBasket - The hook spins freely. Is it broken?
No, it does not mean that there is something wrong with the unit. The hook is designed to be able to spin the basket freely in either direction to allow easy access to all sides when watering and maintaining your plants or flowers.
• RotoBasket - What is the maximum weight that I can hang on it?
It can hold a hanging basket with a maximum weight of 27 lbs / 12 kg.
• Thermometer - If the batteries are low will the thermometer still work?
Yes, the thermometer will still work, but if the batteries are low the LED’s will not light up at night.
LIGHTING
• What does ‘L.E.D.’ mean?
LED stands for light-emitting diode. LED’s have many advantages over incandescent lights including lower energy consumption, longer lifetime, smaller size, faster switching, greater durability and reliability.
• Can LED’s burn out? How long do they last?
LED’s don’t usually burn out under the normal circumstances they are designed for but they do have a life span. They generally last any where between 25,000-100,000 hours (almost 3 years to over 11 years) of use depending on the amount of current going throw them and the temperatures they are used in. With 8 hours of use per day and limited to 20mA of current at room temperature, an LED can be expected to last about 80,000 hours before its brightness begins to substantially reduce and about 100,000 before it has no output at all. LED’s have a high efficiency of about 30-60 lumens per watt. They are durable, efficient and produce light without giving off heat.
• Can I replace an LED in your product if it’s not working?
No. The LED’s in our products are hard-wired in so that they are not removable or replaceable. If you have a product that you just received with an LED that isn’t working please contact the company it was purchased from to exchange it for a new unit. If you are past their return/exchange period but are still within our manufacturer’s warranty period, please contact our customer service dept. You may be asked to provide a copy of your proof-of-purchase which you can provide via email, mail, or fax. Upon receiving your proof-of-purchase and verifying that it is valid we will send you a new unit.
• What does ‘M.C.D.’ mean?
MCD relates to light and stands for millicandela which is a measurement of LED light output brightness. MCD ratings are determined by the amount of current (mA, or milliamps) flowing through it. If the current (mA) that the LED draws is increased or decreased, its brightness (MCD rating) will increase or decrease.
• What does ‘P.I.R.’ mean?
PIR relates to motion sensors and stands for Passive Infra-Red. ‘Passive’ means that the sensor does not emit an infra-red beam, it just accepts incoming infra-red radiation given off by other sources. They sense the temperature within their field of vision and can notice movement of an object with a different temp. PIR sensors are commonly used for home security installations with motion detectors both indoors and out.
• What size objects will set off your PIR motion sensor lights?
‘Motion’ is actually based on an infra-red source with one temperature (such as a person with a higher temp) passing in front of a source with a different temperature (such as a wall with a lower temp). This means that small objects (such as cats and dogs) will activate the light, but objects that are the same temp as their surroundings (no matter how big or small they are) will not activate the light. That way, the light won’t be constantly activated by bushes and trees that are swaying in the breeze in the sensor’s field of vision, to avoid draining the batteries if it’s windy outside at night time.
• Where is the ‘light sensor’ on my product?
The built-in light sensor is usually about ¼ inch wide and looks like a small white circle with a wavy line across it. It’s usually located either under the clear surface in the solar panel or somewhere on the top of the product.
If you own a PIR Motion Sensor Security Light then the light sensor is inside the motion sensor ‘eye’ area behind the frosted lens so you won’t be able to see it.
If you have a set of Sentinella Bollard Lights then your product has 2 light sensors. There’s 1 motion sensor and 1 light sensor on both the first and last posts. The PIR motion sensors are the opaque domes on the side of the posts and the light sensors are inside the clear domes with the LED’s on the tops of the posts.
If you own a PIR Motion Sensor Security Light then the light sensor is inside the motion sensor ‘eye’ area behind the frosted lens so you won’t be able to see it.
If you have a set of Sentinella Bollard Lights then your product has 2 light sensors. There’s 1 motion sensor and 1 light sensor on both the first and last posts. The PIR motion sensors are the opaque domes on the side of the posts and the light sensors are inside the clear domes with the LED’s on the tops of the posts.
• My solar light stays on in the daytime. What do I do?
All of our solar lights (except the Multi Light) are equipped with a built-in light sensor. It measures the amount of light around it and tells the unit to turn ON when it’s dark enough and turn OFF when it receives enough light. If your solar light comes on in the dark as it is supposed to but then stays on during the daytime then there are a few possibilities.
Either your item may need to be repositioned to a different location that’s brighter so the light sensor can shut the light off, or your light sensor may be dirty which is blocking the light and causing it to stay on, or the light sensor is possibly faulty.
First move the item outside into direct sunlight. If it remains on, then try locating and cleaning the light sensor. The light sensor looks like a small white circle with a wavy line across it. They’re usually visible and located in the solar panel. However, for our products with PIR motion sensors, the light sensor is inside the motion sensor ‘eye’ area behind the frosted lens so you won’t be able to see it. Clean the panel and the cover over the motion sensor eye.
If the problem persists, contact the company it was purchased from to exchange it for a new unit. If you are past their return/exchange period but are still within our manufacturer’s warranty period, please contact our customer service dept. You may be asked to provide a copy of your proof-of-purchase which you can provide upon via email, mail, or fax. Upon receiving your proof-of-purchase and verifying that it is valid we will send you a new unit if we have it in stock.
Please note that some of our lights have a timer so if the unit is activated when it’s in a dark area it will remain on for a pre-set amount of time even if the unit is brought into sunny area. In this instance, they would be functioning properly.
Either your item may need to be repositioned to a different location that’s brighter so the light sensor can shut the light off, or your light sensor may be dirty which is blocking the light and causing it to stay on, or the light sensor is possibly faulty.
First move the item outside into direct sunlight. If it remains on, then try locating and cleaning the light sensor. The light sensor looks like a small white circle with a wavy line across it. They’re usually visible and located in the solar panel. However, for our products with PIR motion sensors, the light sensor is inside the motion sensor ‘eye’ area behind the frosted lens so you won’t be able to see it. Clean the panel and the cover over the motion sensor eye.
If the problem persists, contact the company it was purchased from to exchange it for a new unit. If you are past their return/exchange period but are still within our manufacturer’s warranty period, please contact our customer service dept. You may be asked to provide a copy of your proof-of-purchase which you can provide upon via email, mail, or fax. Upon receiving your proof-of-purchase and verifying that it is valid we will send you a new unit if we have it in stock.
Please note that some of our lights have a timer so if the unit is activated when it’s in a dark area it will remain on for a pre-set amount of time even if the unit is brought into sunny area. In this instance, they would be functioning properly.
• My color-changing (chameleon) light only stays on red. What do I do?
If your color-changing (also called ‘chameleon’) light is only lighting up red then there are a few possibilities:
If you have a product which has a ‘color freeze’ button (Magic Globe or Chameleon Smart Globe) then you may have red selected as the color you want the light to stay on. Press the ‘color freeze’ button again to make the light continuously cycle through the color spectrum.
If you have a product that does not have a ‘color freeze’ button (String Lights with 20 LED’s) then it is an indication that the batteries are low. The reason for this is that LED’s actually use different amounts of energy to produce different colors. They only need 2.4 volts to light up red but they need 3.6 volts to light up blue or green. For products with 1 Lithium-ion 3.2v battery there is a built-in chip which acts like a transformer to step up the power from the 3.2v to 3.6v for the Blue and Green LED’s to work. It’s very unlikely but if you have installed batteries that you know are 100% charged and the unit still only lights up red then this part could potentially be faulty.
Here is our suggestion:
If you have had a few cloudy or rainy days and your light has been working each night then the batteries are now low because it hasn’t been able to recharge during the daytime. Switch the unit off and allow up to 2-3 full days of direct sunlight outdoors (4-5 days in the winter) to fully charge the batteries before turning it on again.
If you have not had any cloudy weather then the batteries might be too old and may not be holding a charge anymore. Switch the batteries in the light with batteries that you know are good, either from another light that is working or new batteries. For testing purposes you can use regular alkaline (non-rechargeable) batteries like Duracell or Energizer. If the light comes on and changes colors with good batteries, then you know the original batteries were dead and needed replacing.
If you have a product which has a ‘color freeze’ button (Magic Globe or Chameleon Smart Globe) then you may have red selected as the color you want the light to stay on. Press the ‘color freeze’ button again to make the light continuously cycle through the color spectrum.
If you have a product that does not have a ‘color freeze’ button (String Lights with 20 LED’s) then it is an indication that the batteries are low. The reason for this is that LED’s actually use different amounts of energy to produce different colors. They only need 2.4 volts to light up red but they need 3.6 volts to light up blue or green. For products with 1 Lithium-ion 3.2v battery there is a built-in chip which acts like a transformer to step up the power from the 3.2v to 3.6v for the Blue and Green LED’s to work. It’s very unlikely but if you have installed batteries that you know are 100% charged and the unit still only lights up red then this part could potentially be faulty.
Here is our suggestion:
If you have had a few cloudy or rainy days and your light has been working each night then the batteries are now low because it hasn’t been able to recharge during the daytime. Switch the unit off and allow up to 2-3 full days of direct sunlight outdoors (4-5 days in the winter) to fully charge the batteries before turning it on again.
If you have not had any cloudy weather then the batteries might be too old and may not be holding a charge anymore. Switch the batteries in the light with batteries that you know are good, either from another light that is working or new batteries. For testing purposes you can use regular alkaline (non-rechargeable) batteries like Duracell or Energizer. If the light comes on and changes colors with good batteries, then you know the original batteries were dead and needed replacing.
• I charged my solar light under a lamp and it doesn’t work. What do I do?
Our solar lights will NOT charge indoors under artificial lighting like a standard halogen or fluorescent bulb. They will also not charge properly from the sun if they are placed behind a window or screen because it filters the light. They need to be placed outdoors in direct natural sunlight in order to charge properly. If your light is new we recommend leaving it switched off for 2-3 full days (4-5 days in the winter) to allow the batteries to fully charge up before turning the unit on and trying to use it for the first time.
• My solar light is brand new and doesn’t work. What do I do?
There are few possible reasons for this:
All of our lighting products come with batteries that are factory tested but not fully charged. Products may have been in a warehouse for a prolonged period of time before being purchased and shipped to you. This means that the batteries may be low due to self-discharging when in storage. We recommend you leave the unit switched off and put it outside in direct sunlight for 2-3 full days (4-5 days in the winter) to allow the batteries to fully charge up before turning the unit on and trying to use it for the first time.
All of our lights are shipped with the (‘ON’ / ‘OFF’) or (‘I’ / ‘O’) switch or button in the (‘OFF’ or ‘O’) position. After initially charging the unit you may need to press the button or slide the switch to the (‘ON’ or ‘I’) position.
If you have a Halogen Motion Sensor Light or a Table Lamp then your product comes with a lead-acid battery which has a positive and negative tab. There’s a matching positive and negative wire that need to be connected to each tab. Open the battery compartment and make sure the wires are securely connected to the tabs.
Some of our lights have a battery tab that needs to be pulled out in order for one end of the battery to make a connection with the metal contact. Open the battery compartment and check to see if there is a pull tab. If so, remove it.
Some of our lights have a pink wrapper around the battery, which serves the same purpose as a pull tab but stops both ends of the battery from making a connection with the metal contacts. Open the battery compartment and check to see if the battery has a pink wrapper. If so, remove the battery, carefully remove the wrapper, and then re-insert the battery in the correct direction as marked (+ and –) on the battery compartment housing. Note: Do not remove any other color except pink. You may have batteries that are yellow, green, or silver and removing the outer layer of the battery may damage it. If you physically damage a battery it will not be replaced under warranty.
All of our solar lights are equipped with a built-in light sensor. It looks like a small white circle with a wavy line across it. They’re usually visible and located in the solar panel. However, for our products with PIR motion sensors, the light sensor is inside the motion sensor ‘eye’ area behind the frosted lens so you won’t be able to see it. The light sensor does just that; it measures the amount of light around it and allows the unit to turn on when it is dark enough in the evening and tells it to turn off when it gets bright again in the morning. It is affected both outdoors by natural light and indoors by artificial light from fluorescent or halogen bulbs so you need to make sure there are no light sources shining near it when you want it to work. If you are attempting to test the unit outside during the daytime, you must find the light sensor and completely cover it. Instead, we recommend you bring the unit indoors into a dark room so you can simulate night time and activate the light. Even artificial light from fluorescent or halogen bulbs will interfere with the light sensor.
All of our lights are shipped with the (‘ON’ / ‘OFF’) or (‘I’ / ‘O’) switch or button in the (‘OFF’ or ‘O’) position. After initially charging the unit you may need to press the button or slide the switch to the (‘ON’ or ‘I’) position.
If you have a Halogen Motion Sensor Light or a Table Lamp then your product comes with a lead-acid battery which has a positive and negative tab. There’s a matching positive and negative wire that need to be connected to each tab. Open the battery compartment and make sure the wires are securely connected to the tabs.
Some of our lights have a battery tab that needs to be pulled out in order for one end of the battery to make a connection with the metal contact. Open the battery compartment and check to see if there is a pull tab. If so, remove it.
Some of our lights have a pink wrapper around the battery, which serves the same purpose as a pull tab but stops both ends of the battery from making a connection with the metal contacts. Open the battery compartment and check to see if the battery has a pink wrapper. If so, remove the battery, carefully remove the wrapper, and then re-insert the battery in the correct direction as marked (+ and –) on the battery compartment housing. Note: Do not remove any other color except pink. You may have batteries that are yellow, green, or silver and removing the outer layer of the battery may damage it. If you physically damage a battery it will not be replaced under warranty.
All of our solar lights are equipped with a built-in light sensor. It looks like a small white circle with a wavy line across it. They’re usually visible and located in the solar panel. However, for our products with PIR motion sensors, the light sensor is inside the motion sensor ‘eye’ area behind the frosted lens so you won’t be able to see it. The light sensor does just that; it measures the amount of light around it and allows the unit to turn on when it is dark enough in the evening and tells it to turn off when it gets bright again in the morning. It is affected both outdoors by natural light and indoors by artificial light from fluorescent or halogen bulbs so you need to make sure there are no light sources shining near it when you want it to work. If you are attempting to test the unit outside during the daytime, you must find the light sensor and completely cover it. Instead, we recommend you bring the unit indoors into a dark room so you can simulate night time and activate the light. Even artificial light from fluorescent or halogen bulbs will interfere with the light sensor.
• My solar light stopped working. What should I do?
If one of your lights has stopped working there are a few possibilities:
If you have a few cloudy or rainy days and your light has been working each night then the batteries are probably low because it hasn’t been able to recharge during the daytime. Switch the unit off and allow up to 2-3 full days of direct sunlight outdoors (4-5 days in the winter) to fully charge the batteries before turning it on again.
If you have not had any cloudy weather then the batteries might be too old and may not be holding a charge anymore. Open the battery compartment, remove the batteries and inspect everything. If there are no signs of any moisture inside the battery compartment then switch the batteries in the light with batteries that you know are good, either from another light that is working or new batteries. For testing purposes you can use regular alkaline (non-rechargeable) batteries like Duracell or Energizer. If the light comes on with good batteries, then you know the old rechargeable batteries needed replacing. Seek the appropriate rechargeable batteries for your product.
If when you open the battery compartment there is moisture inside that caused corrosion or build-up on the battery contacts then that’s most likely the problem. Remove the corroded batteries and discard them, clean the contact tabs in the battery compartment with a baking soda & water mixture, then dry and, if necessary use a fine grit sandpaper to make sure the silver tabs are clean and shiny. Install good new batteries. Switch the unit on, cover the light sensor, and take it into a dark room to test it. If the light still doesn’t work then you may need to order a replacement. Please contact customer service to seek a replacement under warranty (if applicable) or we can refer you to retailers that we supply so that you can purchase a new one.
All of our lights are weather resistant but only certain products are designed to be submerged in water. Please make sure that you are using your product in the manner that it was designed and intended for. For our items that can be submerged or float on water (such as Globe Lights), there is a rubber gasket that gives the battery compartment a water tight seal. If this gasket is missing or not properly positioned then water can seep into the battery compartment. Make sure the gasket is in place every time you open and close the battery compartment for any reason.
If you have a few cloudy or rainy days and your light has been working each night then the batteries are probably low because it hasn’t been able to recharge during the daytime. Switch the unit off and allow up to 2-3 full days of direct sunlight outdoors (4-5 days in the winter) to fully charge the batteries before turning it on again.
If you have not had any cloudy weather then the batteries might be too old and may not be holding a charge anymore. Open the battery compartment, remove the batteries and inspect everything. If there are no signs of any moisture inside the battery compartment then switch the batteries in the light with batteries that you know are good, either from another light that is working or new batteries. For testing purposes you can use regular alkaline (non-rechargeable) batteries like Duracell or Energizer. If the light comes on with good batteries, then you know the old rechargeable batteries needed replacing. Seek the appropriate rechargeable batteries for your product.
If when you open the battery compartment there is moisture inside that caused corrosion or build-up on the battery contacts then that’s most likely the problem. Remove the corroded batteries and discard them, clean the contact tabs in the battery compartment with a baking soda & water mixture, then dry and, if necessary use a fine grit sandpaper to make sure the silver tabs are clean and shiny. Install good new batteries. Switch the unit on, cover the light sensor, and take it into a dark room to test it. If the light still doesn’t work then you may need to order a replacement. Please contact customer service to seek a replacement under warranty (if applicable) or we can refer you to retailers that we supply so that you can purchase a new one.
All of our lights are weather resistant but only certain products are designed to be submerged in water. Please make sure that you are using your product in the manner that it was designed and intended for. For our items that can be submerged or float on water (such as Globe Lights), there is a rubber gasket that gives the battery compartment a water tight seal. If this gasket is missing or not properly positioned then water can seep into the battery compartment. Make sure the gasket is in place every time you open and close the battery compartment for any reason.
• What is the ‘Display’ switch for? Do I need it?
The display switch is used on some of our lights that are sold in retail stores. Customers can press the ‘Try Me’ display switch through the box to test the light and see how it looks when it’s on before buying it. After purchasing the light the display switch is no longer necessary. You can unplug the display switch and discard it. Although there may be some charge left in the batteries we recommend fully charging them. Switch the unit off and allow up to 3 full days of direct sunlight outdoors to fully charge them. Once fully charged and switched to the on position, the light will automatically illuminate at night.
• I have a ‘Push ON/OFF’ style button. How can I tell if it’s on or off?
Many of our lights have different style ON / OFF buttons. There’s a sliding switch and a press button that’s raised up and a press button that’s flush. Some are marked (ON/OFF) and some are marked (I/O). All of our lights come preset in the OFF position when they are new to avoid the batteries being drained from the light working inside the box.
If you have a ‘Push ON / OFF’ style button that’s raised up then look at the button from the side and try to note the height of the button. Press the button in so it clicks, release it, and note the height of the button again. The button is taller when it’s on and shorter when it’s off.
If you still can’t really tell or if you have a ‘Push ON / OFF’ style button that is flush with the rest of the product, try charging it in direct sunlight and then seeing if the light works that night in the dark.
If you have charged the unit in direct sun for at least 2-3 days then cover the light sensor and take it into a dark room to test it. If it does not light up then press the ON/OFF button and then it should light up.
Your other option is to remove the batteries and install a set that you know are good, take it into a dark room, and press the ON/OFF button to determine if which position it’s in.
If you have a ‘Push ON / OFF’ style button that’s raised up then look at the button from the side and try to note the height of the button. Press the button in so it clicks, release it, and note the height of the button again. The button is taller when it’s on and shorter when it’s off.
If you still can’t really tell or if you have a ‘Push ON / OFF’ style button that is flush with the rest of the product, try charging it in direct sunlight and then seeing if the light works that night in the dark.
If you have charged the unit in direct sun for at least 2-3 days then cover the light sensor and take it into a dark room to test it. If it does not light up then press the ON/OFF button and then it should light up.
Your other option is to remove the batteries and install a set that you know are good, take it into a dark room, and press the ON/OFF button to determine if which position it’s in.
• Bar Harbor Lanterns – One of my lanterns doesn't work. What do I do?
Please review the troubleshooting information below:
Install all the lanterns in the charging station and press the on/off button on each one to make sure that they all light up. Even if you don’t have batteries installed in the lanterns, they will still light up since they are getting power directly from the charging station. If a lantern does not come on when inserted into the charging station try moving it to different ports in the station. If the light does not light in any port then it might need to be replaced.
If the lantern lights up then you know it’s good. Charge the lanterns for 8 hours so that they should be fully charged. Turn the lantern on while it is still in the charging station so it’s lit up and then remove it from the charging station. If it stays lit up then the batteries have a good contact and received a charged. If the lantern turns off when you remove it from the charging station then the batteries most likely do not have a good connection because of oxidation.
It’s not uncommon that if a product with batteries in it sits in a warehouse for a prolonged period of time it can develop a green and white buildup on the ends of the batteries and on the tabs in the battery compartment. This is from oxidation similar to the terminals on a car battery.
Remove the glass top by turning it, then open the battery compartment and remove the batteries. Inspect the ends of the batteries and the silver tabs inside the battery compartment for oxidation. If there is some build up inside then that can prevent the batteries from making a good connection. You need to clean both ends of the batteries and the battery contacts in the battery compartment with either rubbing alcohol or baking soda mixed in water and a brush, or a fine grit sandpaper to ensure that everything is clean and shiny. Install a spare set of AAA batteries that you know are good. If the lantern lights up then the tabs are clean. If the lantern doesn’t light up try spinning the batteries until the lantern lights up. If this works then you need to clean the tabs in the lantern more. Once the lantern lights up as soon as you put the good batteries in then you know they are making a good connection. Remove the spare batteries and install the original rechargeable ones. Charge the lantern again. If after 8 hours of charging it still does not light up when you remove it from the charging station and have tried spinning the batteries then you might need new batteries.
Install all the lanterns in the charging station and press the on/off button on each one to make sure that they all light up. Even if you don’t have batteries installed in the lanterns, they will still light up since they are getting power directly from the charging station. If a lantern does not come on when inserted into the charging station try moving it to different ports in the station. If the light does not light in any port then it might need to be replaced.
If the lantern lights up then you know it’s good. Charge the lanterns for 8 hours so that they should be fully charged. Turn the lantern on while it is still in the charging station so it’s lit up and then remove it from the charging station. If it stays lit up then the batteries have a good contact and received a charged. If the lantern turns off when you remove it from the charging station then the batteries most likely do not have a good connection because of oxidation.
It’s not uncommon that if a product with batteries in it sits in a warehouse for a prolonged period of time it can develop a green and white buildup on the ends of the batteries and on the tabs in the battery compartment. This is from oxidation similar to the terminals on a car battery.
Remove the glass top by turning it, then open the battery compartment and remove the batteries. Inspect the ends of the batteries and the silver tabs inside the battery compartment for oxidation. If there is some build up inside then that can prevent the batteries from making a good connection. You need to clean both ends of the batteries and the battery contacts in the battery compartment with either rubbing alcohol or baking soda mixed in water and a brush, or a fine grit sandpaper to ensure that everything is clean and shiny. Install a spare set of AAA batteries that you know are good. If the lantern lights up then the tabs are clean. If the lantern doesn’t light up try spinning the batteries until the lantern lights up. If this works then you need to clean the tabs in the lantern more. Once the lantern lights up as soon as you put the good batteries in then you know they are making a good connection. Remove the spare batteries and install the original rechargeable ones. Charge the lantern again. If after 8 hours of charging it still does not light up when you remove it from the charging station and have tried spinning the batteries then you might need new batteries.
BATTERIES
• What does ‘Ni-Cd’ and ‘Ni-MH’ mean?
Ni-Cd stands for Nickel Cadmium.
Ni-MH stands for Nickel-Metal Hydride.
Li-ion stands for Lithium-ion.
The names refer to the metals that are used to make the electrodes in each one.
Ni-MH stands for Nickel-Metal Hydride.
Li-ion stands for Lithium-ion.
The names refer to the metals that are used to make the electrodes in each one.
• What’s the difference between Alkaline, Ni-Cd, Ni-MH, and Lithium-ion batteries?
These batteries basically get their names from the type of metals that are use for their electrodes (positive and negative ends). Each type of battery is different and there are pros and cons for each of them. Here is a brief overview:
Alkaline
Pros: They are the most common battery type (sizes AAA, AA, C, D, 9v), can be disposed of with household waste
Cons: They are usually not rechargeable and attempts to recharge them result in rupture and leaking which cause corrosion, the amount of current they deliver is proportional to their size so items requiring high current will require larger batteries like D’s (such as flashlights or stereos), only come in standard voltage amounts so multiple batteries are usually required (if the item uses 1.2v then it needs 1 battery, if it uses 2.4v then it needs 2 batteries, etc)
Ni-Cd
Pros: They are the most inexpensive, can be used in a wide range of temps (from -4°F to +140°F, from -20°C to +60°C), can be discharged completely for long-term storage and still be recharged in perfect health, are also able to cycle (1 recharge and discharge) more times so they have a longer life, can be recharged faster, and have a lower self-discharge rate when not no being used (20% per month) which is useful for remote controls, and can endure high discharging rates for longer periods of time with no negative effects or loss of capacity which is useful for power tools.
Cons: They suffer from a memory effect, recharging without fully discharging has a negative effect and can cause loss of capacity, if they are still warm from discharging and are put on charge, they will not get the full charge possible (you need to let the battery cool to room temperature, then charge), and are toxic to the environment so they are subject to recycling requirements and are banned in some countries.
Ni-MH
Pros: They have made Ni-Cd almost obsolete, they are inexpensive, have a 2-3 times higher capacity than Ni-Cd, can be recharged without fully discharging and has no negative memory effect, have a higher self-discharge rate when not being used (30% per month), and are less toxic to the environment than Ni-Cd.
Cons: They have poor low-temp performance, can be damaged if charged in sub-zero conditions, and can’t cycle as many times as Ni-Cd so they have a shorter life.
Ni-MH LSD: A new type of Ni-MH batteries called “low self-discharge” were introduced in 2005 with a reduced self-discharge rate giving them a longer shelf life. The new cells retain 70% to 85% of their capacity after one year when stored at 68 °F or 20 °C (room temp). These batteries are marketed as "hybrid", "ready-to-use", or "pre-charged" rechargeable batteries. Besides this, they are otherwise similar to normal Ni-MH batteries and can be charged in a typical Ni-MH charger. The only draw back is that “low self-discharge” ones have a lower capacity than standard ones.
Li-ion
Pros: They operate over a wider temperature range than Ni-Cd, are more powerful than Ni-Cd and Ni-MH, can be made in various voltages so multiple batteries are not required, can be recharged in any temp conditions, have no discharge required, can be made in various shapes and sizes, have the lowest self-discharge rate when not being used (5-10% per month), can be stored in cold areas such as a fridge, have no memory effect, and can be disposed of with household waste because they are environmentally safe.
Cons: They are more expensive then Ni-Cd, are not widely available yet, discharging below the low-voltage threshold results in a dead battery that will not recharge but it can be reversed by applying a charging voltage for long enough, have a shorter cell life than Ni-Cd because with each charge over time the cell's charging capacity diminishes so older batteries do not charge as much as new ones, they degrade much faster when stored or used at higher temperatures.
Alkaline
Pros: They are the most common battery type (sizes AAA, AA, C, D, 9v), can be disposed of with household waste
Cons: They are usually not rechargeable and attempts to recharge them result in rupture and leaking which cause corrosion, the amount of current they deliver is proportional to their size so items requiring high current will require larger batteries like D’s (such as flashlights or stereos), only come in standard voltage amounts so multiple batteries are usually required (if the item uses 1.2v then it needs 1 battery, if it uses 2.4v then it needs 2 batteries, etc)
Ni-Cd
Pros: They are the most inexpensive, can be used in a wide range of temps (from -4°F to +140°F, from -20°C to +60°C), can be discharged completely for long-term storage and still be recharged in perfect health, are also able to cycle (1 recharge and discharge) more times so they have a longer life, can be recharged faster, and have a lower self-discharge rate when not no being used (20% per month) which is useful for remote controls, and can endure high discharging rates for longer periods of time with no negative effects or loss of capacity which is useful for power tools.
Cons: They suffer from a memory effect, recharging without fully discharging has a negative effect and can cause loss of capacity, if they are still warm from discharging and are put on charge, they will not get the full charge possible (you need to let the battery cool to room temperature, then charge), and are toxic to the environment so they are subject to recycling requirements and are banned in some countries.
Ni-MH
Pros: They have made Ni-Cd almost obsolete, they are inexpensive, have a 2-3 times higher capacity than Ni-Cd, can be recharged without fully discharging and has no negative memory effect, have a higher self-discharge rate when not being used (30% per month), and are less toxic to the environment than Ni-Cd.
Cons: They have poor low-temp performance, can be damaged if charged in sub-zero conditions, and can’t cycle as many times as Ni-Cd so they have a shorter life.
Ni-MH LSD: A new type of Ni-MH batteries called “low self-discharge” were introduced in 2005 with a reduced self-discharge rate giving them a longer shelf life. The new cells retain 70% to 85% of their capacity after one year when stored at 68 °F or 20 °C (room temp). These batteries are marketed as "hybrid", "ready-to-use", or "pre-charged" rechargeable batteries. Besides this, they are otherwise similar to normal Ni-MH batteries and can be charged in a typical Ni-MH charger. The only draw back is that “low self-discharge” ones have a lower capacity than standard ones.
Li-ion
Pros: They operate over a wider temperature range than Ni-Cd, are more powerful than Ni-Cd and Ni-MH, can be made in various voltages so multiple batteries are not required, can be recharged in any temp conditions, have no discharge required, can be made in various shapes and sizes, have the lowest self-discharge rate when not being used (5-10% per month), can be stored in cold areas such as a fridge, have no memory effect, and can be disposed of with household waste because they are environmentally safe.
Cons: They are more expensive then Ni-Cd, are not widely available yet, discharging below the low-voltage threshold results in a dead battery that will not recharge but it can be reversed by applying a charging voltage for long enough, have a shorter cell life than Ni-Cd because with each charge over time the cell's charging capacity diminishes so older batteries do not charge as much as new ones, they degrade much faster when stored or used at higher temperatures.
• What does ‘mAh’ mean?
mAh stands for milli Amp hour. It is a technical term for measuring a battery's electrical storage capacity. One amp-hour is equal to a steady current discharge of one amp for one hour. The higher the mAh rating the more energy it can hold and discharge before it needs recharging.
Different types of batteries use different methods to measure calculate mAh so comparing the rating of one type of battery (alkaline battery) to another type of battery (Ni-Cd or Ni-MH) is not always a meaningful comparison. The mAh rating of a battery is only a quick way to compare the storage capacity of batteries that are both the same type.
Different types of batteries use different methods to measure calculate mAh so comparing the rating of one type of battery (alkaline battery) to another type of battery (Ni-Cd or Ni-MH) is not always a meaningful comparison. The mAh rating of a battery is only a quick way to compare the storage capacity of batteries that are both the same type.
• Can I replace my batteries with ones that have a different mAh?
If the new batteries are the same type as the old ones (Ni-MH, Ni-Cd, or Li-ion) and are the same voltage (1.2v, 2.4v, 3.2v, etc) then it’s ok and you can ones with a different mAh rating. Using a higher mAh rated battery will allow the device to run longer on a single full charge, but keep in mind that it will also take longer to fully charge a battery with a higher mAh, possibly several more days. We don’t recommend using ones with a lower mAh since it will make the product work for less time than it was designed to.
• Do batteries really have a memory?
Technically, Ni-Cd and Ni-MH batteries don’t really have a memory. However, they do suffer from self-discharge voltage depletion when not in use that most people call a “memory”.
If a Ni-Cd battery is fully charged after it has only been partially used and you do this repeatedly then it will develop a lower capacity. Fortunately, this can be reversible by “conditioning” them. Conditioning means you fully charge it and then fully empty it. If you do this several times, a battery suffering from “memory effect” should be restored back to its normal capacity.
Ni-MH batteries can also experience a memory effect similar to Ni-Cd batteries, but it’s much less noticeable. To eliminate the possibility of them developing a memory, manufacturers recommend an occasional complete discharge of the battery followed by a full recharge.
The most common problems experienced with rechargeable batteries are actually due to overcharging, polarity reversal, or improper storage.
Overcharging is usually caused by first-generation battery chargers. They continue to deliver power to the batteries even after the batteries are fully charged. Timed chargers (such as "6-hour chargers”) can also damage Ni-Cd and Ni-MH batteries if they are frequently used to charge ones that only need partial charging because they will charge the batteries for the 6 hours and don’t stop charging the battery once it’s full. The effects of overcharging are not reversible. When quick-charging, you should charge Ni-MH with a “smart charger” which stops providing power once the battery is full to avoid overcharging. You should not charge Ni-Cd batteries in a Ni-MH charger and vice versa. If you have a very old charger you may want to think about getting a newer one.
Polarity reversal is usually caused by using a set of batteries that have different amounts of charge in each one, and you put 2 or more batteries into one product. 1 battery becomes completely empty before the others. When this happens, the good batteries start to push energy into the empty battery, which causes permanent damage to it. Once this happens, that battery will not take a charge again. This is why manufacturers of products recommend charging or changing all the batteries in a product at the same time when one of them gets low so that they are all at the same level. A product that uses a single battery can't suffer from polarity reversal, because there is no other battery to affect it when it becomes low.
Another common issue is leaving a device switched ‘ON’ until the batteries run down and the switch still remains in the ‘ON’ position. Most electronic devices normally switch themselves off once the battery is empty, but other devices like flashlights and toys, continue to put a small drain on the battery even after the battery is very low to the point where the product can’t function and appears to be off, but it’s not. Eventually, this drain on the empty battery will cause the polarity of the battery to reverse.
We recommended that you make sure you switch off any product that won’t be used for a month or more, or remove the batteries.
If a Ni-Cd battery is fully charged after it has only been partially used and you do this repeatedly then it will develop a lower capacity. Fortunately, this can be reversible by “conditioning” them. Conditioning means you fully charge it and then fully empty it. If you do this several times, a battery suffering from “memory effect” should be restored back to its normal capacity.
Ni-MH batteries can also experience a memory effect similar to Ni-Cd batteries, but it’s much less noticeable. To eliminate the possibility of them developing a memory, manufacturers recommend an occasional complete discharge of the battery followed by a full recharge.
The most common problems experienced with rechargeable batteries are actually due to overcharging, polarity reversal, or improper storage.
Overcharging is usually caused by first-generation battery chargers. They continue to deliver power to the batteries even after the batteries are fully charged. Timed chargers (such as "6-hour chargers”) can also damage Ni-Cd and Ni-MH batteries if they are frequently used to charge ones that only need partial charging because they will charge the batteries for the 6 hours and don’t stop charging the battery once it’s full. The effects of overcharging are not reversible. When quick-charging, you should charge Ni-MH with a “smart charger” which stops providing power once the battery is full to avoid overcharging. You should not charge Ni-Cd batteries in a Ni-MH charger and vice versa. If you have a very old charger you may want to think about getting a newer one.
Polarity reversal is usually caused by using a set of batteries that have different amounts of charge in each one, and you put 2 or more batteries into one product. 1 battery becomes completely empty before the others. When this happens, the good batteries start to push energy into the empty battery, which causes permanent damage to it. Once this happens, that battery will not take a charge again. This is why manufacturers of products recommend charging or changing all the batteries in a product at the same time when one of them gets low so that they are all at the same level. A product that uses a single battery can't suffer from polarity reversal, because there is no other battery to affect it when it becomes low.
Another common issue is leaving a device switched ‘ON’ until the batteries run down and the switch still remains in the ‘ON’ position. Most electronic devices normally switch themselves off once the battery is empty, but other devices like flashlights and toys, continue to put a small drain on the battery even after the battery is very low to the point where the product can’t function and appears to be off, but it’s not. Eventually, this drain on the empty battery will cause the polarity of the battery to reverse.
We recommended that you make sure you switch off any product that won’t be used for a month or more, or remove the batteries.
• What is the shelf life of a battery?
The shelf life of a battery that’s not being used is the same as the self-discharge rate. The rate of self-discharge for any battery depends on the type of battery and the temperature at which it's stored. For example, Ni-MH batteries stored at room temp will lose up to 40% of their charge within the first month. If they’re stored at a higher temperature they will self-discharge even faster, and if they’re stored at a lower temperature they self-discharge slower. This is why we recommend charging them before you try to use them for the first time, or charging them before storing them for a season, and storing them in a cool and dry place in the winter.
• How many times can a battery be recharged?
A typical Ni-MH battery can be charged and discharged hundreds of times, but whether that means 200 or 800 times depends on a few factors, such as how much & how often you use it after each time it’s recharged, how often you recharge it, if you overcharge it, and at what temperature you store it. Every time a rechargeable battery goes through a discharge and recharge cycle it loses a tiny amount of its total capacity. If it’s only partially used before being fully recharged then it only loses a small amount of its total capacity. If the battery is empty before being fully recharged then it loses a slightly bigger amount of the battery's total capacity.
• Does putting batteries in the fridge make them last longer?
It depends on the type of batteries:
Alkaline (non-rechargeable) batteries stored at room temperature retain 90% of their power for years without refrigeration. Under normal circumstances, refrigerating alkaline batteries will only extend their life by about 5%, which is not a relevant amount, so refrigerating them isn’t necessary.
Both Ni-MH and Ni-Cd rechargeable batteries will lose up to 40% of their power within the first month when stored at room temperature, but when stored in the fridge they retain 90% of their charge for several months. If you do decide to store your charged batteries in the same place as food, make sure you keep them in a tightly sealed zip-lock bag so they stay dry and clean. When you do want to use them you should let them sit out in the open and slowly warm up to room temperature before using them again.
Alkaline (non-rechargeable) batteries stored at room temperature retain 90% of their power for years without refrigeration. Under normal circumstances, refrigerating alkaline batteries will only extend their life by about 5%, which is not a relevant amount, so refrigerating them isn’t necessary.
Both Ni-MH and Ni-Cd rechargeable batteries will lose up to 40% of their power within the first month when stored at room temperature, but when stored in the fridge they retain 90% of their charge for several months. If you do decide to store your charged batteries in the same place as food, make sure you keep them in a tightly sealed zip-lock bag so they stay dry and clean. When you do want to use them you should let them sit out in the open and slowly warm up to room temperature before using them again.
• Does ‘quick-charging’ reduce the life of batteries?
If you use a properly designed newer generation Ni-MH “smart-charger” with Ni-MH rechargeable batteries, then ‘no’ they will be fine. They can be recharged in about an hour without any damage or reduction in their life. If you want to quick-charge Ni-MH batteries you must use a charger that’s designed for Ni-MH batteries.
If you use a charger designed to charge Ni-Cd batteries to charge your Ni-MH batteries it can over charge them, and if so, then ‘yes’ they can be damaged. Make sure you don’t mix and match one type of battery with a different type of charger.
If you use a charger designed to charge Ni-Cd batteries to charge your Ni-MH batteries it can over charge them, and if so, then ‘yes’ they can be damaged. Make sure you don’t mix and match one type of battery with a different type of charger.
ELECTRIC INFINITY PUMPS
(Go to ‘WATER FEATURES / FOUNTAINS’, then ‘ALL ELECTRIC FOUNTAINS’ for questions related to these pumps)
ELECTRIC MAGIC MIST FOUNTAINS
• How does a mist maker work?
The misting unit has an internal quartz element that creates high-speed vibrations at an ultrasonic frequency. These vibrations are transferred through a spring to the ceramic disc above it. The water diffuses around the disc and is converted instantly into water vapor.
• My fountain is new and isn’t misting at all but the red light is on? What do I do?
Note: Do not take the mist maker out of the water while it’s still turned on. Doing so can damage the ceramic membrane or the whole unit.
Each magic mist maker unit has a water-level sensor which allows both the mister and the LED’s to function. The sensor is black and shaped like a mushroom. If the water level is too low then there is a red indicator light on top of the sensor that will illuminate. Fill the bowl until the water level completely covers the sensor. If set to ‘MIST’, the red water level indicator will shut off and the mist maker will automatically start working. If set to the ‘ON’ position, the unit will automatically begin misting and the LED lights will illuminate too. The water level must be consistently over the sensor. Simply pouring water over the sensor will not get it to work. We recommend keeping the water level at about 2 inches for most fountains. The mist maker dissipates about 1 cup of water per hour of use or about 1 ½ gallons of water for every 24 hours of use. If the water level slowly drops below the sensor due to evaporation and use then both the mist and the LED’s will automatically shut off and the red indicator light will be illuminated.
Each magic mist maker unit has a water-level sensor which allows both the mister and the LED’s to function. The sensor is black and shaped like a mushroom. If the water level is too low then there is a red indicator light on top of the sensor that will illuminate. Fill the bowl until the water level completely covers the sensor. If set to ‘MIST’, the red water level indicator will shut off and the mist maker will automatically start working. If set to the ‘ON’ position, the unit will automatically begin misting and the LED lights will illuminate too. The water level must be consistently over the sensor. Simply pouring water over the sensor will not get it to work. We recommend keeping the water level at about 2 inches for most fountains. The mist maker dissipates about 1 cup of water per hour of use or about 1 ½ gallons of water for every 24 hours of use. If the water level slowly drops below the sensor due to evaporation and use then both the mist and the LED’s will automatically shut off and the red indicator light will be illuminated.
• My fountain is old and isn’t misting as much as it used to. What do I do?
Note: Do not take the mist maker out of the water while it’s still turned on. Doing so can damage the ceramic membrane or the whole unit.
The mist maker unit either needs to be taken apart and cleaned or the ceramic membrane disc needs to be replaced. The membrane is subject to wear and tear due to the constant vibrations it sustains and will eventually wear down (Part # ‘S-101’, includes ceramic membrane disc and removal / installation key tool).
The mist maker unit either needs to be taken apart and cleaned or the ceramic membrane disc needs to be replaced. The membrane is subject to wear and tear due to the constant vibrations it sustains and will eventually wear down (Part # ‘S-101’, includes ceramic membrane disc and removal / installation key tool).
• What is the life span of a mist maker?
The ceramic membrane disc is subject to wear and tear due to the vibrations it constantly sustains and will eventually need to be replaced. The life span of the membrane largely depends on the amount of use, water hardness, and water purity. The average life span of the membrane is about 3,000 hours which is about 4 months if you run it non-stop for 24 hours per day. You can prolong the life of the unit by using distilled water or water softeners and running it for only a few hours per day. When you notice that the mist maker is regularly producing less mist and the unit has been cleaned then it is time to replace the membrane. The ceramic membrane disc is not covered by the warranty. You can purchase a replacement Mist Maker Maintenance Kit (Part # ‘S-101’, includes ceramic membrane disc and removal / installation key tool).
• How do I replace the ceramic membrane disc?
To replace the ceramic membrane disc please follow these steps:
REMOVAL:
Note: Do not take the mist maker out of the water while it’s still turned on. Doing so can damage the ceramic membrane or the whole unit.
Shut the unit off and disconnect the power supply. Take the mist maker out the fountain and dry it off. Insert the key tool into the 2 grooves on the cover ring and turn it counter-clockwise to loosen it. Carefully remove the winding ring, ceramic membrane disc, and clear rubber seal washer underneath. Be careful not to damage the spring underneath the membrane. Make sure that the area inside the unit under the membrane is clean and dry before installation.
INSTALLATION:
Note: Remove and discard the black rubber ring from the around new membrane disc (it’s for packaging purposes only). Be careful not to scratch the surface of the new membrane. The top side of the membrane is gold and the bottom side is silver with a dark ring. Do not install the disc upside-down.
Put the clear rubber seal ring back into the area around the spring. Place the membrane disc into the unit on the spring. Important: Make sure the gold side of the new membrane is facing up and the silver side with the dark circle around it is facing down. Place the cover ring on the membrane, compress the spring, and turn the cover ring clockwise with the key tool to tighten it. Place the unit back into the fountain and re-connect the power supply.
If your mist maker has more than 1 membrane, repeat this process for each one.
REMOVAL:
Note: Do not take the mist maker out of the water while it’s still turned on. Doing so can damage the ceramic membrane or the whole unit.
Shut the unit off and disconnect the power supply. Take the mist maker out the fountain and dry it off. Insert the key tool into the 2 grooves on the cover ring and turn it counter-clockwise to loosen it. Carefully remove the winding ring, ceramic membrane disc, and clear rubber seal washer underneath. Be careful not to damage the spring underneath the membrane. Make sure that the area inside the unit under the membrane is clean and dry before installation.
INSTALLATION:
Note: Remove and discard the black rubber ring from the around new membrane disc (it’s for packaging purposes only). Be careful not to scratch the surface of the new membrane. The top side of the membrane is gold and the bottom side is silver with a dark ring. Do not install the disc upside-down.
Put the clear rubber seal ring back into the area around the spring. Place the membrane disc into the unit on the spring. Important: Make sure the gold side of the new membrane is facing up and the silver side with the dark circle around it is facing down. Place the cover ring on the membrane, compress the spring, and turn the cover ring clockwise with the key tool to tighten it. Place the unit back into the fountain and re-connect the power supply.
If your mist maker has more than 1 membrane, repeat this process for each one.
CUSTOM DESIGNS (Exclusive)
• What is an ‘exclusive’ product?
Some of our items are referred to as ‘exclusive’ products. This means that Smart Solar has custom-made a unique design for one specific company and we have an agreement where only that company has the sole rights to sell this design to customers for a set period of time while supplies last. Exclusive products are supplied to distributors/retail companies directly from our factories overseas. This means that Smart Solar does not usually have stock available for exclusive products or exclusive parts in our warehouse. If you need proprietary parts, such as solar panels, pumps, fountain head kits, then you can contact us and we will replace them if we have them in stock. If you need a part of the actual fountain such the base, stand, or bowl (made of resin, terra cotta, ceramic, copper, etc) then usually don’t have it in stock. You can check to see if we have it in stock but you will most likely need to contact the company that it was purchased from to obtain replacements. They can supply the replacement part or do an exchange for a new unit (within their own return/exchange periods). These products are designed exclusively for that company and therefore usually can’t be supplied through Smart Solar’s warehouse.
• How can I find out if I have an exclusive product?
Please go to the ‘CUSTOM DESIGNS (EXCLUSIVE)’ section of our website (on the left) to find out if your product is considered exclusive. If you do not see it listed anywhere then you can contact customer service and we can let you know if the item you own is exclusive and what parts we do and don’t have in stock for it.
ALL PRODUCTS (General)
• I tried all the troubleshooting listed and it still doesn’t work. What do I do?
You can contact our customer service office via phone or email for more assistance.
USA
Phone: 813-343-5775 (Mon-Fri 9am-6pm EST)
Email: USsupport@smartsolar.com
UK
Phone: 08448 009 163 (Mon-Fri 9am-5pm)
Email: UKsupport@smartsolar.com
GERMANY
Phone: 0158 12744268
Whether you email or call us please let us know if you have already tried the suggestions on the FAQ page of our website already so that we will know what you have tried.
USA
Phone: 813-343-5775 (Mon-Fri 9am-6pm EST)
Email: USsupport@smartsolar.com
UK
Phone: 08448 009 163 (Mon-Fri 9am-5pm)
Email: UKsupport@smartsolar.com
GERMANY
Phone: 0158 12744268
Whether you email or call us please let us know if you have already tried the suggestions on the FAQ page of our website already so that we will know what you have tried.
• What are the stains on my fountain and solar panel caused by?
White stains on your fountain and on the solar panel are caused by hard water build up. Hard water has a high mineral content of mainly calcium and magnesium. Calcium in the form of limestone causes lime scale build up. Although hard water is usually only measured by the amount of calcium and magnesium in it, other metals such as iron may also be present. Iron deposits cause the build up to be a brown or orange color, instead of white. Although, it may look like the inside of your bowl is rusty, it’s not, it’s just from the iron. Resin isn’t metal so therefore it can’t rust.
There are 2 types of hard water; temporary and permanent. Temporary water hardness (low mineral content) can be removed by boiling the water then letting it cool to create soft water, or by adding lime (calcium hydroxide). Permanent water hardness (high mineral content) can’t be removed by boiling it. To remove permanent hardness you would need to use a commercial water softener system.
There are 2 types of hard water; temporary and permanent. Temporary water hardness (low mineral content) can be removed by boiling the water then letting it cool to create soft water, or by adding lime (calcium hydroxide). Permanent water hardness (high mineral content) can’t be removed by boiling it. To remove permanent hardness you would need to use a commercial water softener system.
• What can I use to clean the glass on solar panel?
We recommend using a glass cleaner such as Windex to remove any dirt and algae build up, or use C.L.R. (Calcium, Lime, & Rust remover) to dissolve tough white calcium deposits and lime scale. After cleaning, some water stains may still be visible but the glass should be clean to the touch.
• What can I use to clean the silver plug connections between the wires?
If there is any build-up in the plugs they will need to be cleaned and dried off before re-connecting them. To clean green and white build-up off of the silver plugs between the pump and solar panel we recommend a mixture of baking soda and water (the same way you clean car battery terminals). If you need a stronger solution you can use C.L.R. (Calcium, Lime, & Rust remover) which quickly and easily dissolves calcium deposits and lime scale.
The reason your plugs might have build up could be because they were not connected correctly with the o-ring covered, or the o-ring needs to be replace, or the o-ring is missing. Inspect the black or yellow or red rubber o-ring on the solar panel plug. If the o-ring is cracked or deteriorated then it needs to be replaced. If you are missing the o-ring then you will have an empty groove around the plug and you need to order a replacement. If the o-ring is ok then reconnect the plugs again. Be sure to twist them as you push them together until the entire rubber o-ring is covered all the way around and is inside the sleeve of the pump plug to ensure a water-tight connection. If you look at the connection when it’s flat on a table you should not be able to see the o-ring.
The reason your plugs might have build up could be because they were not connected correctly with the o-ring covered, or the o-ring needs to be replace, or the o-ring is missing. Inspect the black or yellow or red rubber o-ring on the solar panel plug. If the o-ring is cracked or deteriorated then it needs to be replaced. If you are missing the o-ring then you will have an empty groove around the plug and you need to order a replacement. If the o-ring is ok then reconnect the plugs again. Be sure to twist them as you push them together until the entire rubber o-ring is covered all the way around and is inside the sleeve of the pump plug to ensure a water-tight connection. If you look at the connection when it’s flat on a table you should not be able to see the o-ring.
• What can I use to clean my copper fountain?
When copper is new it’s bright and shiny but over time it gets dark and dull with a green patina build up (called ‘verdigris’) because it reacts with the air to form copper oxide. There are many different ways to clean copper fountains and restore their natural shine. You can use a commercial product such as Tarn-X Copper Cleaner, or there are many home remedies. The natural acetic acid from vinegar or lemons combined with salt causes a chemical reaction that dissolves just the copper oxide which builds up on copper, leaving behind the shiny clean copper underneath.
Here are a few DIY methods:
Ketchup: Apply to copper let stand for at least 15 minutes, then rub in with a soft cloth, rinse with warm water and polish dry.
Salt & Vinegar: Pour vinegar over the surface. Sprinkle salt over it and rub in the mixture. Rinse with warm water and polish dry.
Salt, Vinegar, Flour: Dissolve 1 teaspoon salt in 1 cup white vinegar. Add flour to make a paste. Apply the paste to the copper and let sit for about at least 15 minutes. Rinse with warm water and polish dry.
Lemon Juice & Salt: Make a paste of lemon juice and salt. Apply to copper and rub in with a soft cloth. Rinse with warm water and polish dry.
Lemon & Baking Soda: Use a slice of lemon sprinkled with baking soda. Rub it directly on copper. Rinse with warm water and polish dry.
Note: Avoid getting cleaning solution on stainless steel because they will become pitted.
Here are a few DIY methods:
Ketchup: Apply to copper let stand for at least 15 minutes, then rub in with a soft cloth, rinse with warm water and polish dry.
Salt & Vinegar: Pour vinegar over the surface. Sprinkle salt over it and rub in the mixture. Rinse with warm water and polish dry.
Salt, Vinegar, Flour: Dissolve 1 teaspoon salt in 1 cup white vinegar. Add flour to make a paste. Apply the paste to the copper and let sit for about at least 15 minutes. Rinse with warm water and polish dry.
Lemon Juice & Salt: Make a paste of lemon juice and salt. Apply to copper and rub in with a soft cloth. Rinse with warm water and polish dry.
Lemon & Baking Soda: Use a slice of lemon sprinkled with baking soda. Rub it directly on copper. Rinse with warm water and polish dry.
Note: Avoid getting cleaning solution on stainless steel because they will become pitted.
• What can I do to help keep the water clean longer in my fountain?
If you have hard water in your area we recommend that you use distilled water instead of tap water, to prevent calcium and lime scale build-up. This is merely a suggestion and not a requirement because we realize that this could be costly over time. As an alternative you could use rain water.
Do not add live plants or fish to your fountain because this will cause the pump to get clogged up very fast. Do not add bleach to the water or use bleach when cleaning your product as this will deteriorate the pump filter and cause the finish of the fountain to discolor or fade.
Use a water treatment that kills algae in order to keep the water cleaner for longer periods of time. To keep your water crystal clear we suggest using our highly recommended Fountain Fresh. It’s a non-toxic water clarifier powder with all-natural enzymes that prevents algae from developing in the water and mosquitoes from laying eggs on the water surface. It can be purchased through many of our retailers or from Smart Solar directly by going to the ‘Replacement Parts’ section of our site by entering ‘Fountain Fresh’ into the search box at the top left then click ‘Go’.
Do not add live plants or fish to your fountain because this will cause the pump to get clogged up very fast. Do not add bleach to the water or use bleach when cleaning your product as this will deteriorate the pump filter and cause the finish of the fountain to discolor or fade.
Use a water treatment that kills algae in order to keep the water cleaner for longer periods of time. To keep your water crystal clear we suggest using our highly recommended Fountain Fresh. It’s a non-toxic water clarifier powder with all-natural enzymes that prevents algae from developing in the water and mosquitoes from laying eggs on the water surface. It can be purchased through many of our retailers or from Smart Solar directly by going to the ‘Replacement Parts’ section of our site by entering ‘Fountain Fresh’ into the search box at the top left then click ‘Go’.
• What can I use to seal a crack in my fountain?
We recommend using either a clear silicone sealant like aquarium glue or use Gorilla Glue. It’s a multi-purpose formula that easily bonds steel, wood, aluminum, resin, ceramic, terra cotta, plastic and more. It’s water-proof and non-toxic once cured so it is safe for plants and animals and it’s solvent resistant so it will not break down from exposure to common cleaning solutions. They can be found at most local hardware retail stores or pond stores.
• Do all your solar panels store energy?
Our ‘standard’ solar panels do not store energy and provide power to the pump when they are in direct sunlight only. If you want a solar panel with a battery pack that can store energy we have ‘Solar-On-Demand’ panels with an ON/OFF switch that can store power in a removable rechargeable battery pack.
Note: The battery pack is not included if you buy just a solar panel. They are sold separately. However, the battery is included if you buy a whole Solar-On-Demand kit.
Note: The battery pack is not included if you buy just a solar panel. They are sold separately. However, the battery is included if you buy a whole Solar-On-Demand kit.
• The phone number on my booklet doesn’t work. Do you still have a toll free number?
Unfortunately we no longer have a toll-free telephone number since we merged with another leading solar company, STI Group, and adopted a new phone number. The numbers printed the instruction booklets from past years may no longer in service. We apologize for any inconvenience. Please see the ‘Contact Us’ page for our most up to date information.
Here is our current USA customer service contact info:
Phone: 813-343-5775 (Mon-Fri 9am-6pm EST)
Email: USsupport@smartsolar.com
Here is our current USA customer service contact info:
Phone: 813-343-5775 (Mon-Fri 9am-6pm EST)
Email: USsupport@smartsolar.com
• I want to buy a product but I don’t see a a price or way to purchase it. Why not?
Thank you for taking an interest in our products. Currently, our site is only designed to display the products that we have manufactured. We are a wholesale distributor company that mainly supplies retail outlets and e-commerce websites who then sell our products to consumers for us. Many retailers may sell the same product for different prices, therefore we do not display prices on our site either and we suggest you shop around to find the best deals. To find a product that you are interested in try using an online search engine website to find companies that sell the product. If you still can’t find it anywhere you can contact us and we will let us know who sells it or if it is discontinued.
• Where can I buy your products?
Thank you for taking an interest in our products. We supply an ever growing number of retail outlets and e-commerce websites who either sell our products to consumers, or supply them to other retail companies (that are unknown to us) that then sell them to consumers. Therefore to avoid showing a list which is incomplete or seem to show favoritism to certain companies because we are unaware of other companies, we do not display a list of companies that we supply.
If you enter the products name or item number into an online search engine website you will usually find many retailers that currently sell the product. Many companies may sell the same product for different prices to be competitive with each other. We suggest you shop around to find the best deals.
If you have already tried searching online and still cannot find the product that you are interested in anywhere, then you can contact our customer service and we can either refer you the appropriate retailers that sell it or let you know if it’s discontinued.
If you enter the products name or item number into an online search engine website you will usually find many retailers that currently sell the product. Many companies may sell the same product for different prices to be competitive with each other. We suggest you shop around to find the best deals.
If you have already tried searching online and still cannot find the product that you are interested in anywhere, then you can contact our customer service and we can either refer you the appropriate retailers that sell it or let you know if it’s discontinued.
• Can you mail me a catalog of your products?
Thank you for taking an interest in our products. Unfortunately, we don’t have any consumer catalogs that we can mail out because we are constantly updating and adding to our product range and we supply e-commerce, retail and catalog companies that sell our products to consumers for us.
• I want to become a distributor and sell your products. What do I need to do?
Thank you for taking an interest in our products. For product availability, required order quantities, wholesale pricing and other enquiries about setting up a distributor account with us to sell our products please contact the appropriate sales office:
USA
Phone: 813-343-5770 (Mon-Fri 9am-5pm EST)
Email: USsales@smartsolar.com
UK
Phone: 01865 733 770 (Mon-Fri)
Email: sales@smartsolar.com
GERMANY
Email: seggewiss@smartsolar.com
Phone: 813-343-5770 (Mon-Fri 9am-5pm EST)
Email: USsales@smartsolar.com
UK
Phone: 01865 733 770 (Mon-Fri)
Email: sales@smartsolar.com
GERMANY
Email: seggewiss@smartsolar.com
ALL PRODUCTS (Damaged, Missing Parts, Returns, Testing)
• I purchased one of your products and it arrived damaged. What do I do?
If you just received one of our products and it arrived damaged then you need to contact the company that it was purchased from. That company may have shipped it from their own warehouse or drop-shipped it from our warehouse, but either way, they will decide if they need to file a ‘damaged claim’ with the carrier that was used (FedEx, UPS, etc) and then have a replacement product shipped out to you.
Please unpack and inspect the whole product and report any broken pieces as soon as possible. FedEx damaged package claims must be reported within 21 calendar days from the delivery date. UPS does not have a time restriction on when damaged package claims need to be reported by.
Keep all the original packaging and contents until the claim process is finished. Most cases will typically be resolved within 7-10 days after they have received and filed your claim. It may be necessary to make the package and all contents available to the carrier company if necessary. They might send a representative to your residence to inspect it to determine the cause of damage and verify the proper packing materials were used.
If you have had the product for an extended period of time and did not open it until now, then you might be past the damage claim period with the carrier and also past the return/exchange period with the company that it was purchased from. In this situation your only option would be to purchase replacement parts from Smart Solar, since shipping damage is not covered by the warranty.
If you have any questions or concerns, you can contact us via email or phone. Please do not automatically return your product directly to Smart Solar without contacting us first. We are not responsible for any goods returned to us without prior authorization or any costs associated with unauthorized returns.
Please unpack and inspect the whole product and report any broken pieces as soon as possible. FedEx damaged package claims must be reported within 21 calendar days from the delivery date. UPS does not have a time restriction on when damaged package claims need to be reported by.
Keep all the original packaging and contents until the claim process is finished. Most cases will typically be resolved within 7-10 days after they have received and filed your claim. It may be necessary to make the package and all contents available to the carrier company if necessary. They might send a representative to your residence to inspect it to determine the cause of damage and verify the proper packing materials were used.
If you have had the product for an extended period of time and did not open it until now, then you might be past the damage claim period with the carrier and also past the return/exchange period with the company that it was purchased from. In this situation your only option would be to purchase replacement parts from Smart Solar, since shipping damage is not covered by the warranty.
If you have any questions or concerns, you can contact us via email or phone. Please do not automatically return your product directly to Smart Solar without contacting us first. We are not responsible for any goods returned to us without prior authorization or any costs associated with unauthorized returns.
• I purchased one of your products and a piece is missing. What do I do?
If you just received one of our products and any parts are missing Smart Solar will provide the missing parts free of charge. Please unpack and inspect the whole product and report any missing pieces as soon as possible. If we don’t have the part in stock you can choose to either wait for us to get the part in stock and then ship it to you, or you can exchange the whole product with the company that it was purchased from, within that company’s return/exchange period.
We usually do not stock any spare fountain parts (resin, ceramic, terra cotta, copper, etc) for ‘exclusive’ products in our warehouse, although we usually do have spare solar parts (panels, pumps, etc). If you purchased an ‘exclusive’ product and are missing a part that we do not stock in our warehouse then you will need to exchange the product with the company that it was purchased from, within that company’s return/exchange period.
We usually do not stock any spare fountain parts (resin, ceramic, terra cotta, copper, etc) for ‘exclusive’ products in our warehouse, although we usually do have spare solar parts (panels, pumps, etc). If you purchased an ‘exclusive’ product and are missing a part that we do not stock in our warehouse then you will need to exchange the product with the company that it was purchased from, within that company’s return/exchange period.
• I got your product as a gift and a piece is missing or damaged. What do I do?
If you just received one of our products and any parts are missing Smart Solar will provide the missing parts free of charge. Please unpack and inspect the whole product and report all missing pieces as soon as possible. If we don’t have a part in stock you can choose to either wait for us to get the part in stock and then ship it to you, or you can exchange the product with the company that it was purchased from, within that company’s return/exchange period.
We usually do not stock any spare fountain parts (resin, ceramic, terra cotta, copper, etc) for ‘exclusive’ products in our warehouse, although we usually do have spare solar parts (panels, pumps, etc).
If you just received one of our products as a gift and any parts are damaged then you need to find out where your gift was purchased from the person who bought it for you and then contact that company, not Smart Solar. The company it was purchased from will decide if they need to file a ‘damaged package claim’ with the carrier that was used (FedEx, UPS, etc) and then have a replacement product shipped out to you. Please contact the company that it was purchased from as soon as possible. FedEx damaged package claims must be reported within 21 calendar days from the delivery date. UPS does not have a time restriction on how soon damaged package claims need to be reported.
We usually do not stock any spare fountain parts (resin, ceramic, terra cotta, copper, etc) for ‘exclusive’ products in our warehouse, although we usually do have spare solar parts (panels, pumps, etc).
If you just received one of our products as a gift and any parts are damaged then you need to find out where your gift was purchased from the person who bought it for you and then contact that company, not Smart Solar. The company it was purchased from will decide if they need to file a ‘damaged package claim’ with the carrier that was used (FedEx, UPS, etc) and then have a replacement product shipped out to you. Please contact the company that it was purchased from as soon as possible. FedEx damaged package claims must be reported within 21 calendar days from the delivery date. UPS does not have a time restriction on how soon damaged package claims need to be reported.
• I want to return a whole product that I purchased. What do I do?
If you want to return your whole product then you need to contact the company that you purchased it from in order to return it to them based on their return policy for a refund, credit, exchange, or replacement.
Please do not automatically return your product directly to Smart Solar without finding out where it was purchased from and contacting that company first. Although we are the manufacturer, consumers don’t usually purchase products directly from us. You would have most likely purchased it from one of our distributors/retailers (catalog or website). The only way you would have purchased the product directly from Smart Solar is if you called our sales office and placed an order over the phone, or if you purchased it online from www.STIgroupinc.com which we are affiliated with.
Smart Solar is not responsible for any unauthorized or unexpected returns of products returned directly to us instead of to the retailer that it was purchased from, and any costs associated with such returns.
Please do not automatically return your product directly to Smart Solar without finding out where it was purchased from and contacting that company first. Although we are the manufacturer, consumers don’t usually purchase products directly from us. You would have most likely purchased it from one of our distributors/retailers (catalog or website). The only way you would have purchased the product directly from Smart Solar is if you called our sales office and placed an order over the phone, or if you purchased it online from www.STIgroupinc.com which we are affiliated with.
Smart Solar is not responsible for any unauthorized or unexpected returns of products returned directly to us instead of to the retailer that it was purchased from, and any costs associated with such returns.
• I want to return a replacement part that I purchased from Smart Solar? What do I do?
All parts returned for a refund or credit must be in new condition. If you want to return a replacement part that you purchased directly from us, please contact us via email or phone BEFORE returning the part to us in order to follow the proper return procedures and send it to the right location. We will provide you with a return authorization number, the return address, and an email address that you can use to send your return tracking number to after you ship it, if you have a computer. When you ship the part back to us you must get a tracking number (FedEx, UPS) or a delivery confirmation number (US Mail) in order to prove that it made it to us. Our customer service office and our warehouse are not the same location so you need to provide us with your return tracking number or delivery confirmation number via email or phone. Once we can see from your return tracking number you provided that the package has made it back to our warehouse we will issue your credit. We do not issue refunds for the shipping & handling fees that you incurred when you placed your original order or shipped the part back to us, and a 20% processing and restocking fee is deducted from all refunds, unless an error was made by a Smart Solar customer service rep when taking your order over the phone. If your package does not make it back to us and ends up lost in transit due to the FedEx, UPS, or US Mail carrier that you used, then you need to contact the carrier regarding your lost package. Smart Solar is not responsible for any packages lost by the shipping carrier, any unauthorized returns of parts to any of our locations or any costs associated with such returns.
• Can I send parts back for inspection / testing / repair?
STILL UNDER WARRANTY
If you are within your warranty period, our standard procedure is to first troubleshoot to determine any possible issues and then replace the defective part. If supplying replacement parts doesn’t resolve the issue and follow-up troubleshooting still doesn’t determine the problem then occasionally we may request to have the parts returned to our customer service center. We will have Fed Ex pick it up from your residence (issue a “Call Tag”) at our expense so you don’t have to pay to ship them back to us. Once we receive the package, inspect all the parts and perform some testing then we will contact you with the results.
If it ends up damaged in transit due to not being packed properly we are not responsible for replacing the broken part under warranty. For this reason we suggest you use the same packaging it came in. If you don’t still have the box please make sure you use enough packing material. If it arrives damaged then we can file a damage claim with FedEx.
If you are under warranty and ship the package to us with notifying us and don’t use enough packing material and it arrives damaged we are not responsible for replacing the broken part under warranty.
PAST THE WARRANTY
If you are past your warranty period but need assistance with your product and would like us to determine the issue in person you can ship it to us for inspection and testing at your own expense. Please notify us first so we can provide the proper address to send it to. When you ship the package you must get a tracking number (FedEx, UPS) or a delivery confirmation number (US Mail) in order to prove that it made it to our location. Once we receive the package, inspect all the parts and perform some testing then we will contact you with the results. If your package does not make it back to us and ends up lost in transit due to the FedEx, UPS, or US Mail carrier that you used, then you need to contact the carrier regarding your lost package.
If it ends up damaged in transit due to not being packed properly we are not responsible for replacing the broken part. For this reason we suggest you use FedEx or UPS to send it back to us so if it arrives damaged you can file a damage claim. If you ship it by US Postal Service and don’t insure it and it arrives damaged then you will not be able to file a damage claim and we are not responsible for replacing the broken part under warranty.
UNAUTHORIZED RETURNS
Please do not ship any parts back to us requesting that we inspect, test, repair, or replace them without first notifying us via phone or email so that we can follow the proper procedures and make sure that you send it to the correct location. We are not responsible for any unauthorized or unexpected returns to any of our locations that may end up being misplaced or lost in transit for any reason. If it ends up lost in transit due to the FedEx, UPS, or US Mail carrier that you used then we are not responsible for replacing that part under warranty and you will be required to purchase the lost part.
If you are within your warranty period, our standard procedure is to first troubleshoot to determine any possible issues and then replace the defective part. If supplying replacement parts doesn’t resolve the issue and follow-up troubleshooting still doesn’t determine the problem then occasionally we may request to have the parts returned to our customer service center. We will have Fed Ex pick it up from your residence (issue a “Call Tag”) at our expense so you don’t have to pay to ship them back to us. Once we receive the package, inspect all the parts and perform some testing then we will contact you with the results.
If it ends up damaged in transit due to not being packed properly we are not responsible for replacing the broken part under warranty. For this reason we suggest you use the same packaging it came in. If you don’t still have the box please make sure you use enough packing material. If it arrives damaged then we can file a damage claim with FedEx.
If you are under warranty and ship the package to us with notifying us and don’t use enough packing material and it arrives damaged we are not responsible for replacing the broken part under warranty.
PAST THE WARRANTY
If you are past your warranty period but need assistance with your product and would like us to determine the issue in person you can ship it to us for inspection and testing at your own expense. Please notify us first so we can provide the proper address to send it to. When you ship the package you must get a tracking number (FedEx, UPS) or a delivery confirmation number (US Mail) in order to prove that it made it to our location. Once we receive the package, inspect all the parts and perform some testing then we will contact you with the results. If your package does not make it back to us and ends up lost in transit due to the FedEx, UPS, or US Mail carrier that you used, then you need to contact the carrier regarding your lost package.
If it ends up damaged in transit due to not being packed properly we are not responsible for replacing the broken part. For this reason we suggest you use FedEx or UPS to send it back to us so if it arrives damaged you can file a damage claim. If you ship it by US Postal Service and don’t insure it and it arrives damaged then you will not be able to file a damage claim and we are not responsible for replacing the broken part under warranty.
UNAUTHORIZED RETURNS
Please do not ship any parts back to us requesting that we inspect, test, repair, or replace them without first notifying us via phone or email so that we can follow the proper procedures and make sure that you send it to the correct location. We are not responsible for any unauthorized or unexpected returns to any of our locations that may end up being misplaced or lost in transit for any reason. If it ends up lost in transit due to the FedEx, UPS, or US Mail carrier that you used then we are not responsible for replacing that part under warranty and you will be required to purchase the lost part.